It appears as though the factory subwoofer has been disconnected when the deck was installed. This deck has a feature that you can use the rear speaker chanels for a subwoofer. Would I be able to pull the deck out and hook up the subwoofer cables to the rear speaker outputs?
I'm a total newb at this, if this is possible can anyone tell me how to go about hooking up the sub to the head unit in this manner? Is it just speaker wires or RCA's back there or maybe a harness?
You can but that isn't the best option. The factory headunit has a built in amp and a extra channel for said subwoofer. Your new HU has neither. You'll need a small low grade amp to wire into the woofer to get it to work.
The best option is just flat out replacing the old subwoofer.
Based on this info about the HU. CEA2006 Specs: 14 watts RMS x 4 channels (at 4 ohms, 20Hz-20kHz, 1% THD-N)
Continuous Power Output: 22 watts RMS x 4 channels (at 4 ohms, 50Hz-15kHz, 5% THD)
Maximum Power Output: 50 watts x 4 channels (or 50 watts x 2 channels at 4 ohms + 70 watts x 1 channel at 2 ohms for subwoofer)
Looks like if you do not want to add an amp for the sub outputs you can:
1. You could bridge the rear channels to drive the factory sub with 70 watts, the only thing is you would loose the rear door channels in exchange for this action. You will need remove the dash, find the small white harness for the factory sub YEL/BLK Subwoofer (RR WOOFER+)LT GRN/RED wires Subwoofer (RR WOOFER-) then connect the bridged rear channels of the Pioneer to those wires.
If you add an amp you can:
1.Use the Pioneer sub channels, keep the rear channels but most small amps offer way too much power to the factory sub and it may just damage the sub or not give you good results. Maybe a walmart 2 ch bridgeable amp will work
Wow. thanks guys, Laserguy that was what i wanted to know, i think the bridged way suits me, i can do without the rear speakers and ill upgrade the fronts.
The least expensive way to do it is, as was suggested, connect the right rear speakers leads to the factory subwoofer. Make sure to use only the violet and violet/black wires as shown on Page 6 here:
The rear door speakers are mainly used for fill anyways. They aren't technically needed, but you're going to want to make sure you have a good set of front speakers to make up for it. It might be beneficial for you to start out by doing laserguy's tweeter upgrade. Many members here have had great success with this. It could be enough for you to be satisfied, but just remember to not push the stock subwoofer too hard. It's only rated at 30 watts RMS and you'll be sending over twice that to it. Also remember to disconnect the green and green/black wires that go to the left rear speaker and ensure that you can undo anything that you do - meaning don't cut any wires too short and whatnot.
However, the BEST way to do it would be to add the Bazooka powered sub. It's a very easy installation and is comparatively inexpensive. Best sound and the safest install.
Hey thanks Ian, i'm planning to keep this upgrade as simple as possible (so i can do it if i were to take the back seat out i would probably go the whole nine yards and get a custom sub enclosure made, amp, etc..
I never thought about the tweeters i was just going to put coaxials in the doors, is it hard to get the them out? Would they make that much of a difference?
IMO, you're pretty much going to replace the whole system with what has been discussed here. you might as well just go the whole 9 yards and put in a real shallow mount sub behind the back seat vs the bazooka tube. The tube works fine from the reviews on this forum, but I don't regret for a minute making a box and putting the real thing behind my back seat. Just the experience was worth the extra effort since I had never done it before.
Read THIS thread when you get some time. All the information is there and it is really simple. The company is out of business, but the plans are pretty simple to do yourself.
I had never made a sub-box, nor wired anything like that before. It took me a saturday to build the box and a weekend to wire everything and get it tuned. Ian helped me out a lot when I had questions. Pretty much any shallow mount 10 with a mounting depth of 3" will fit, give or take. I used the Pioneer 4ohm, but a lot of people have use the wild tang (?) instead.
Anyway, all the iniformation you need is in that thread. I did everything with a skill saw, jigsaw, and nail gun. It doesn't take anything fancy to make the box.
Bridging the Alpine rear channels and tapping in the sub harnesses is free and done when the dash is removed. The plastic panels on the bottom of the back seat just unsnap easy if the sub connection needs to be checked or reconnected.
Adding a new sub and amp will cost nearly or over $300.00 a bazooka, $130.00. And don't forget a good wiring kit, easy extra $50.00 plus the little supplies to do the install that can add up.
If I made a box to go behind the seat I would go with the Pioneer, it's more efficient and the box would need to be 1 inch taller to fit the pioneer sub.
free time is a beautiful thing! if you have anymore..
i'm thinking of going with 4 of these Infinity coax speakers for the doors, I think they should be easier to drive than the components and they have directional tweeters:
they have really high sensitivity and so i should be able to run them off just the h/u? i know they are not component but at least i can aim the tweeters. crutchfield says they wont fit, but i'm thinking i should be able to make them work with spacers?
yeah cool, I don't need it to pound that hard, i just want some nice tight accurate bass. i don't have any tools to make the box myself, i'll probably find someone local to build it for me.
Kappas, Mmm, Nice! for that kind of money I would take a look at these, more flexibility, if installed as components, it is going to take extra time to install them but it will be worth it. I would put the tweeters on the sail panel for the fronts only.
I would not spend too much money on the rears but that is just me.