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Power Steering Fluid Leak

43K views 43 replies 23 participants last post by  Jack 
#1 ·
At about 25k (1.5 years ago) my PS fluid was so low that upon turning the truck would make that PS wrrrrrrrring as it turned. Now at 39k and less than a year out of warranty, the PS fluid is less than 1/2 inch below the low mark on the PS fluid tank.

The dealership checked for a leak the oil change after the original filling but found nothing. Any ideas? Anyone else have this issue? I'm certainly going to claim they missed a leak somewhere as I have the paperwork on the past service.
 
#11 ·
While doing some bonding with my RL recently, I found a corroded P.S. hose clamp (see pic below) at the location I think you’re describing, OldNorske. No fluid leakage yet, and I have a replacement clamp on-hand for a DIY fix.

Does anyone know if there’s any residual pressure in this line (the P.S. return line, according to the Service Manual) after the engine’s been turned off for a couple of hours? I just may have to drain the P.S. fluid to be safe, but was hoping to avoid doing that.

Also, the clamp just aft of this one on the same P.S. return line is corroded too, but not as badly. That one will be more challenging to fix without a lift.
 

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#29 ·
Hi OldNorske. Looking at the diagram below, I believe the hose clamp you are referring to is on the inlet side (B) of the pump, correct?



And iirc, there have been some reports of an o-ring that has also been replaced due to leaking. I believe that is depicted in this image.


Both of these fixes seem pretty simple to accomplish, assuming you can get to them easily.
 
#31 ·
Actually Speed, I think it was on the "A" line. It's hard for me to tell on the diagram. If you look down, on the passenger side, it is where the metal line connects to the rubber line (towards the bottom/front of the truck). You can get at it by turning the wheel.

If it wasn't 9 degrees and dark outside, I would go out and attempt to take a picture of it. :act006:

If I think of it, I will attempt a photo tomorrow.
 
#3 ·
UPDATE:

I took the RL in today to identify if there is a leak. They found a leak in the power steering rack. LUCKILY, I took the RL in for this problem while under warranty and had it documented! Needless to say, it's almost a year out of warranty.

It will be repaired under warranty, requiring a new power steering rack and pinion. I inquired about the cost of repair if it was on my dime and the service rep. replied to the tune of $1,300.00!

Needless to say I got lucky, however it does make me want to mention to all RL owners to have stuff checked out while your warranty is still valid if you suspect your RL has an issue, if for nothing else to document the issue.

I am a bit concerned as I've had several warranty issues with this truck (front headlight assembly, swing gate latch, battery, center console, P/S rack...) compared to our 03 CRV that has had about $150 in repairs over $65K, and no warranty issues...

I still love my truck.
 
#4 ·
wrenjr1, you are lucky! I took my '06 RTL in today for a whining steering noise and was notified that it needs a new rack and pinion, along with 4-wheel alignment, and front and rear diff change. This truck has been babied for 5 years with only 45k miles on it! The P/S fluid was right at the minimum level so after reading the manual I decided to take it to the dealer just to be sure there wasn't a leak. I was told it would be $1500 and change for everything, and the fluid is leaking and collecting in the CV boots.

I don't know much about this stuff so I guess I'm just asking anyone out there if this sounds right, price sounds right for this work? It is at a reputable Honda dealership but obviously the truck is 9,000 miles out of warranty so on my dime. I'm torn...I love this truck but I'm seriously considering trading it in right now on something else. This is the first time at the dealer for anything major, thought I would have it for another 100k without any major issues.

I checked online and I can get a remanufactured rack and pinion kit for $300...so wondering why the one from Honda is $1100. Is there a lot of labor needed for a job like this? What if I just keep topping the fluid up and hope that nothing breaks...what are the consequences?

Thanks all, M.
 
#7 ·
Sorry for your pain!
I assume you have dealt with the read diff change before right? I'm at 40K and have had it (rear diff.) done twice. The alignment was done upon replacement of my P/S Rack as well from the dealership, so it sounds like that's accepted practice upon replacement.

I don't know what to tell you but just consider the cost of replacement of either a new or used PS rack vs. the cost of trading and purchasing a new RL or other vehicle. Sometimes getting it repaired is cheaper than a new or newer vehicle and the payments that come with it...

I'm thinking there's an issue with the PS racks that Honda may not be telling us about...
 
#5 ·
Even a reputable dealer is going to go 'by the book' when it comes to parts, etc. If I was out of warranty I would find a reputable mechanic to do the job. Get a 2nd opinion from him also on the problem.

Dealers and mfg rarely stock brand new major mechanical assemblies, just the small stuff (trim, etc. ). Steering assemblies, alternators, transmissions, etc. etc are remanufactured. My point is you could purchase rebuilt parts for less also. Just make sure to find a reliable parts jobber with a good warranty.
 
#8 ·
Thanks for the concern. Sucks for sure, but then again this is the first bad thing that has happened for 5 years and I do love this truck. I've had a Dodge RAM 1500 and a Ford F150 for work during the same time span and I can't even tell you how many times those vehicles have been in the shop for repairs! I had to replace the Dodge suspension at 20K miles!

Anyways, called an Import garage today that specializes in Honda/Acura and they will do everything for $932...if it needs it. He said that it is rare to have to replace the entire rack so he will give me a second diagnosis to check hoses, pump, seals.

Still cheaper than a new RL for sure!

Thanks,
M
 
#9 ·
Anyways, called an Import garage today that specializes in Honda/Acura and they will do everything for $932...if it needs it. He said that it is rare to have to replace the entire rack so he will give me a second diagnosis to check hoses, pump, seals.
Before handing over your wallet, make sure you do your homework and look at all the threads about air leaks on the low pressure side of the system / dirty strainer. A CR-V buddy fixed his PS recently by putting a small shim under the flange where the O-Ring is on the intake side. 'foaming' is one of your search keywords..... There's lots of threads with diagrams, procedures, and external links to various HONDA documents.

:act014:
 
#12 ·
Well, I just looked under my Ridge and there is a small leak of fluid under my front end..Can't tell what kind of fluid yet..I put a drop cloth under the drip area so that I can see the fluid.What color is my power steering Fluid? I only have 11,000 miles on my Baby...:act060:I'am going to look under my hood in the morning when I have Day light.Where do I check my fluid level?
 
#13 ·
My PS rack never leaked on the ground, nor did i see where it was leaking. Did you rule out water from AC condensation? I usually have a small puddle after the AC has been running.
 
#15 ·
Update:

I ended up needing the new rack and pinion. The boots at both ends were full of fluid so my topping it off each day was just adding to the problem. They rebuilt mine (local shop) and it came with a 1yr/12k warranty. I drove it for about 2 days and noticed the whining again. To my dismay I had to top the fluid up again and call the garage. They confirmed that there was another leak so they had to rip it out, repair and replace it again. So far, so good. I have had no issues since so hopefully this new one holds up for another 5 years. I only have 47k on this thing and I'm planning on driving it for another 100k! Thanks everyone. Oh ya, total cost was about $1000, which was $500 cheaper than Honda and I got the 4-wheel alignment done as part of the work (without charge I'm told).
 
#16 ·
Well, I too need a new rack and pinion. :( One of the drive axles is also leaking. :( :( I just paid the Ridgeline off two weeks ago. :mad:

Additionally, I'd been waiting till this summer to do the timing belt change, so along with a few maintenance items, I'm look at a $2900 bill. :eek:

2006 RTL....114,000 miles. Here's the breakdown from an independent shop, the owner of which I've known for 20+ years:
  • timing belt - $974 - includes belt, water pump, tensioner, pulley
  • coolant change - $125 (maintenance item...probably would have done it myself, but decided since it was already in the shop, I'd just let them do it)
  • rack & pinion - $996 (includes replacing tie rod ends ($90) -- since no extra labor is involved and they are a wear item, might as well go ahead and replace them)
  • 4-wheel alignment - $140
  • both drive axles - $547 - one needs it....doing the other since things are already taken apart
Well, I guess I'll finally have some repair info to put in the True Delta survey the next time around. :act029: So basically I end up with $1099 in maintenance items and repairs of $1683 with approximately $350 or so of that being optional repairs.

I love my truck, but must admit I'm a bit disappointed that a couple of rather major components need repair in a time frame I would have expected to be relatively early for a Honda. However, since this is the first repair bill I've had in 114,000 miles, so maybe it's just the "shock" of the price tag of the bundled maintenance and repair that's got me feeling disappointed.
 
#17 ·
Your biggest part of the bill is labor. $125 for a coolant change is a rip off. If they are replacing the water pump with the timing belt, then most of that is done.
 
#22 ·
We will all find out soon enough. Every thing will have electric steering in the not so far future.
 
#21 ·
I have not looked very hard for a PS fluid leak, but I am adding about a pint every 6 months.

I just put $2000 in my Ridgeline at 129k miles-

Tires
Alignment
2 rear struts
Front pad, rotors, calipers (1 boot on each caliper was torn)
Rear pads
Oil Change

I'm not screwing with the power steering until it outright fails. I am going to crawl under there and look for hose leaks.

I'm not too thrilled about the suspension items or the potential PS rack replacement in the future, but it could be worse. It could be a Mercedes or BMW at 130k miles and looking at $1,000 a month in repairs/maintenance.
 
#25 ·
Ask what? I did it at 106k miles...

I did that, everything that is supposed to be done with that job, spark plugs, oil change and VTM-4 fluid change.

I doubt I will get rid of this vehicle. If things fall into place over the next 6-10 months, I will soon be looking at getting a larger truck (diesel), 5th wheel toyhauler/camper and some acreage.

I will keep the Ridgeline to drive to work/light farm use/yard work/etc. Prolly keep it until it falls apart. These people that buy these $15,000 Kawasaki Mules/etc to ride around the yard/farm are stupid and just keeping up with the Joneses. You can buy a Ridgeline for 1/2 of that now, have a larger vehicle, more towing capacity and A/C and heat...

Hook a trailer to it and haul hay around, a small tractor, etc. Those sooped-up 4-wheelers can't do that .
 
#30 ·
Truck is 2 1/2 years old I figured it was time for the PS reservoir flush. Just picked up 2 bottles of Honda HG fluid from Curry Acura, $7.08 incl. shipping. Not too shabby!
 
#33 ·
Um...Speedlever? Are you there?

I know this is insignificant, but I went out and took the picture. I'm sure that if this power steering return line leak happened to me, it can happen to some other folks.

Soooo...why has this not been posted on the forum?

It could give the OP one more thing to look for, that might possibly explain where his power steering fluid is disappearing to.

just sayin'
 
#35 ·
Yeah, I'm here ON. Just not sure what to make of the pic you took. I really thought you were talking about the inlet line to the pump. But apparently not.

I did some work on my RL today and wish I'd thought to look there as well.
 
#36 ·
My truck experienced what turned out to be a slow PS fluid leak. It was in the PS radiator fitting area. Both the PS radiator and the hose needed replacing. It was covered under my extended warranty, and would otherwise have cost about $600 to fix. Note that Canadian costs are often quite inflated compared to the US.

The mechanic says that it's not uncommon (not sure how common that is, but I have not seen it reported here on the ROC). Not knowing the root cause, I am not sure if we need to add to our knowledge base about preventing another occurrence.
 
#37 ·
It's really ironic! :act002: Waaayyyy back in this thread, I told you all about a power steering fluid leak (that was "fixed" by adding extra hose clamps). This fix was applied about five years ago. Please keep in mind, the fact that, this "fix" has worked for five years!

Three weeks ago (when the temps dropped to zero), I found a puddle of P/S fluid on my driveway (it was mixed with the snow, so it was easier to clean up). When I noticed the noise from the pump and checked the reservoir, I added Honda P/S fluid and took the Ridgeline to the dealer and showed them the printouts of the original "fix". They took the "extra hose clamps" off the hose and installed another clamp (non-OEM). I drove it home (30 miles), and the next day there was another puddle! I am, in no way, putting the dealer's service department down. The original "fix" lasted five years.

Here is the final result...There was a "pinhole leak" in the hose. The dealer's service department replaced the...

Oil Cooler Hose, part # 53732SJCA02, Return Pipe, part # 53779SJCA03, Oil Hose Clip, part # 90635S5AA02, and Oil Hose Clip, part # 90635SM4A02 (I put these part numbers up for Speedlever, since I wanted him to understand what hose I was referring to).

All is well now.

p.s. By the way...$200.00, but that's the way it goes (it's not like a car payment every month!).
 
#38 ·
Just got my RL back from the tire shop for some new rubber.

They did their usual "safety inspection" (i.e., billfold leak evaluation) and found a leak at the passenger side of the rack, supposedly from the boot. I haven't stuck my head underneath to see what they were talking about yet, but they also mentioned that it's "an electronic rack that has to be reprogrammed with the computer once it's replaced". Yeah, okay guys. Either way, I'm not having the work done at a tire shop.
 
#40 ·
but they also mentioned that it's "an electronic rack that has to be reprogrammed with the computer once it's replaced". Yeah, okay guys. Either way, I'm not having the work done at a tire shop.
I've never heard that. Due to dustboys sarcasm I take it this is BS right?
 
#41 ·
I have a 07 RL I have just replaced the timing belt and water pump and the linkage arms behind the front struts I now have a whinnying sound from my power steering pump when I first start the truck my steering is very stiff almost like a manual steering truck. I also replaced the serpentine belt and replaced the tensioner pulleys I think I have air in my PS system how do I figure out which PS line is the pressure line and which is the return line?? Ant ideas's
 
#42 ·
See previous page of this thread for that info.... but:
You can start by just changing the fluid at the reservoir (use turkey baster to remove old & just add new... do it more than once after operating, if your fluid is really dirty).
Since you don't have a leak, you should be able to just change the fluid & 'hope' that things clear up (they often do). Good Luck.

FYI, I'm not aware of a 'bleed' procedure, but if there is one, someone here will chime in.
 
#44 ·
What happens is new fluids dislodge gunk that might be blocking leaks. I used to work on a lot of VW's and they had very sensitive flexible rubber brake lines connecting the hard tubing with the wheel cylinders. When changing out master cylinders and adding or changing fluid, the new fluid would dislodge rubber particles that were gunked in place, clogging the brake lines. Very similar to plaque coming loose in your arteries and causing blockage.

Don't cheap out. Buy a new hose and above all change that radiator now! If you SMOD then the hose will seem insignificant.
 
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