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Brake Fluid and Power Steering fluid change?

11K views 10 replies 6 participants last post by  tigertom1965 
#1 ·
I have read and re-read my owners manual many times especially when it comes to my MM system.

I have had all of my fluids changed twice so far and my in cabin filter twice so far.

By all fluids I mean my Tranny fluid, oil (More than twice), transfer case, rear diff, and I even changed my coolant at 50000 because I saw it here somewhere.

I know that the coolant doesn't need to be changed until 5 years or 100000 miles but I didn't see that until after I had it changed.

When I read my manual it mentioned 3 years for brake fluid and not every 60000 miles. I don't remember a mileage for the brake system.

So my question is, is 60000 miles the correct time period for the brake fluid change and the power steering fluid change?

By 60000 miles what should be changed acording to the owners manual?

I now have 62000-63000 miles. I need this to go at least 200000 miles so I can actually pay it off and stop carrying over negative equity.
 
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#2 ·
You should use 3 years, not mileage.
 
#3 ·
Yes, 3 years for brake fluid. It absorbs moisture from the air, and can cause corrosion in the internal parts of your braking system (master cylinder, calipers, ABS pump, and other expensive parts). In extreme cases it can lengthen stopping distance, as the moisture turns to steam when it hits the hot brake caliper (brake fluid doesn't compress, but steam does quite well)

Power steering fluid is normally good for 100k miles, but if you like, you can do a partial change earlier than that using a turkey baster or syringe. Suck out the old dark fluid in the reservoir, then top off with fresh Honda power steering fluid. Like I said, not a full change, but it'll be good enough. Turn your steering wheel lock-to-lock a few times afterward to get out any air bubbles that might have been introduced.

Chip H.
 
#4 ·
The reason I brought this up is my local Honda dealer told me I needed my Power steering fluid and my brake fluid changed at 60000 miles. They said that it should be done every 30000 miles when all of the other fluids are changed out.

I think when all this business is done I will find another Honda dealer. I don't like it when they are out to drain my wallet with services that are not necessary.

Brakes probably not needed until May of 2010 (3 years from original prep date) but I don't think I have ever changed the power steering fluid in a vehicle until the power steering pump died.
 
#5 ·
Just heard from the Honda dealer today.

This job already over the $400 mark and when they were changing the brake fluid they found that the pads and rotors in the rear were shot. I never heard any squeeling noise from the brake pads to tell me they were worn. Isn't there a wear bar or something to let us know our pads are gone?

I do have 62500-63000 miles but why weren't they shot at 60000 miles when I had my tires rotated? These are checked everytime I have my oil changed and everything lubed plus my tires rotated. I am wondering if they will now magically be squealing when they never did before.

All because Honda wants over $450 for new pads and rotors out back. :eek: :mad:

Last time I go there.

What have you used instead of the Honda pads and rotors? I can get some pads and slotted or solid rotors at Tirerack but what brands are better for our truck? Do we have ceramic pads and crappy rotors or semi metallic pads on as stock? Maybe my trucks hesitation went away with my brake rotors going away as well?

Is it easy enough to do myself or should I get them done by someone? Keep in mind I am more of a Tim the Toolman type of mechanic.
 
#6 ·
I have to concur with chiph on the Brake & PS fluid. Being brought up as a “Gear Head” has saved me untold dollars. You may want to search out a new more reputable dealer or service center to do your work. We’ve got 665004 miles showing on the clock now and our four year old RL has seen plenty of towing and I’m not easy on her either. I’m ready to change to the EBC black cad-plated rotors and yellow pads here in the next few months and will post a step by step photo of this process.

If you’re not comfortable doing any of the mechanical work on your truck, the brakes especially need to be addressed by a experienced mechanic. IMHO....
 
#8 ·
Went to pay for my service and found it to be $360 instead of $460. At least I have $100 for brake pads now. :)

I tried out the Tonneau and found it was still hitting on the passenger side. Then I found out why. Evidently my trim piece had only one clip left still attached. I had the clip closest to the cab and the screw at the other end. So they broke all the other clips off my trim and then didn't even try to fix it or order me one until I told them about it. :eek: Fail!! Not sure if they will try to charge me or not. Will know tomorrow.

Brakes could need it but it just didn't sit right with me. My rear rotors have a small lip at the edge but I am just not sure what condition they really are in. Or the real condition of the pad material. I will bring it in to my normal service guys and see what they think.

If my uncle still works on cars he may help me as he has done many brake jobs and is a mechanic. I just don't know if he is still working on cars anymore. This also depends on how much labor it will take for a brake job.

I was looking at the black coated rotors at Tirerack and thought they were cool looking but wasn't sure if the slotted rotors would be better for daily commuting or not. I don't really think so.

Are the stock pads ceramic or semi metallic?

Do the rotors float or are they hard mounted? By floating I mean are they held on by the caliper or are they hard mounted (screwed down) to the hub.

Should i just replace all the pads front and rear with the same compound and brand or do just the rears? Do I replace the front rotors or turn them if I change the pads? The rears are cut several mm so I am guessing they need to be changed out. Do the parking brakes use the rear rotor assembly as a drum brake? How would I know if I need to replace the calipers?

Sigh!!! I really like this truck and have had no problems with it up till now. At least it isn't like my Jeep or my Blazer both of which were always in the shop. The blazer had a bad parking brake that would rub on the rear hub (Rotor) and smoke the pads. Then my truck would shake so violently at 65 that people on the highway backed off and kept their distance. Funny enough the only thing my Chevy dealer would tell me was it was the tire tread pattern that was causing my shimmy.:rolleyes:

Why do i seem to gravitate towards the mechanics that fell asleep in ASCE training instead of actually getting ASCE mechanics that know what they are doing?:confused:
 
#9 ·
My uncle called me today. He would use the Bendix Ceramic Pads and Bendix rotors for a cost of $250 plus his $70 to install them. That comes to $320 which is less than the cheapest $395 I had for installed fee. He has used Bendix pads and rotors on everything he has owned and every vehicle he has ever put brakes in (Unless you supply them). They are the only brake parts he will use. I think he knows someone that gets him his parts for cheap.

I may be going to Philly soon.:D

At least I will be able to watch and see how it is done.
 
#10 ·
I had my 60,000 miles service done to my 07 yesterday. They did the following:
Replaced: Engine oil, tranny fuild, Diff and brake fluids. Had the engine air filter and cabin filter replaced. Although the 60,000 mile service calls for tire rotation, I didn't have it done as the tires need replacing soon. I also have the rear brake done. First time I've heard of rear brakes needing to be done before my front?

Now this is where I go on the the dealer yesterday. I see in the manual and on line that it says they should replace the fluid in the transfer case. The service writer says their isn't a transfer case.???? He says the transfer case and the tranny are the same?
 
#11 ·
There is a transfer case. It uses gear oil of 80 or 90 weight or 80W-90.

Tranny supplies forward or reverse momentum. The trasfer case directs that power (Momentum) to the proper wheels front or back to get motion.

The drive shafts come out of the transfer case not the tranny.
 
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