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Local Dealer's Timing Belt Change Deal

35K views 37 replies 18 participants last post by  speedlever 
#1 ·
My local Honda Dealer has a coupon currently for the Timing Belt and Water pump to be changed for a cost of $270.00 for V6's. I called to confirm that my Ridgeline qualified for that and was told that it did as the coupon stated in fine print "most V6's".

My question is, what else would you suggest I confirm is included before making the decision on whether to let them do it or do it myself. I have no doubt I could do it since I did the one on our Pilot. The cost of the belt, pump and antifreeze alone would run me $150 or so and a decent day completing the job. I'm more than happy to pay a dealer $100 more bucks to save me the hassle.
 
#36 ·
Kevin,

Not exactly sure what you're looking for. Does this help?



 
#37 ·
Ok, let me try again. The problem I'm having is that every "kit" out there seems to have different parts. So from what I've figured and can interpret, these are the components for a full rebuild:

- the timing belt itself
- the "auto-tensioner", which is the one-way hydraulic plunger thing
- the adjusting pulley (F above), which I gather the plunger bears on?
- the idler pulley (B above)

Then:
- the water pump
- the water pump seal (does this always come with it? different kits specify vs not)

That's it for the timing belt section, right? Why do the Honda kits come with crank and cam seals? I don't see anything about their replacement.

Finally, if I want to do the serpentine belt, which Honda calls the "drive belt":

- S-belt
- S-belt tensioner - this just uses a spring, not a hydraulic ratchet like the timing belt
- S-belt idler pulley

Do I have all that complete and correct now? TIA.

KeS
 
#38 · (Edited)
Kevin,

I haven't had to replace any of these components yet. But my understanding is that the auto-tensioner and pulley is one assembly. Perhaps someone who has done the TB/WP themselves can confirm that.


To my understanding, the seals (cam and crank) aren't replaced unless there's evidence of leakage.

There seems to be some debate as to whether the idler pulleys need to be replaced or not.

Regarding the Sbelt tensioner mechanism, I think you are correct about the spring. There's supposed to be a visual check to see if the belt is properly tensioned. I looked for it once and didn't find it. I suspect I didn't look hard enough or in the right place. ;)



Hope this helps.

Edit: there appears to be a couple of conditions that indicate if the tensioner assembly needs to be replaced:
1) noise from the pulley
2) amount of torque need to induce movement (37.2 lb-ft minimum limit)

 
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