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MityVac on ATF

9K views 32 replies 11 participants last post by  hopingforahonda 
#1 ·
MityVac on ATF, has anyone ever tried it? Would be so much easier to just do 1 service to get all the old fluid out.
 
#3 ·
Yes, I used my MityVac on the tranny fluid. I still got a bit of fluid out when I pulled the drain plug, but only a fraction of what would have come out otherwise. Plus, you need to pull and clean the mag plug anyway.

I also use the MV on oil, brake fluid, and PS fluid. It only does a fair job on a brake bleed, but it does get the job done.
 
#4 ·
one use Ive found for the MityVac is for getting the proper fluid level which is kind of a pain if you overshoot the replacement or if you want to make small adjustments.

The normal drain using the plug seems to produce about 3.5 quarts, so you can replace that much pretty easily after a drain and call it good, but if you overshoot it then its a pain getting the level back.

What I did was map out the dip stick length on the MityVac and then just insert the MityVac tube that about down the dipstick tube and vac it out to the proper level.
 
#5 ·
Is it really a 'pain' to just drain it, clean the plug, and fill it up with a little less than spec, and top off as needed? Seems easy to me.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Not any significant issue, but you are supposed to measure at operating temp, and then let it sit for a minute so you should?? (at least I have) buttoned things up to get back to operating temp. To top up you need to open things up again and then setting the level remains educated guess "pouring" work. Also the fill plug is a little out of the way and you do have to get out the long funnel to top up if necessary and then wipe up the funnel. No big deal and possibly the level is pretty forgiving within limits, but with the MityVac its all of about 60 seconds to get the level set exactly where you want it. In the end this is just an option if in the perfect world you didn't quite replace the same 3.5 quarts that seems to drain when you pull the plug.
 
#6 ·
I recently bought a Mercedes SUV (as RollinHonda is well aware). The dipstick has a large opening and I understand it is built for extraction from above rather than via the drain pan. Besides, there are a bunch of screws and stuff to remove the protection plate just to get to the pan so it is not worth the trouble. So, I need to get a MityVac or something similar. Is the MityVac the best one out there? How about this one at a fraction of the price?: http://www.meijer.com/s/seasense-12v-oil-changer/_/R-192390
 
#8 ·
This may be true about Mercedes building the dipstick for vacuuming out the oil, after all it is German designed and I do remember when I lived in Germany seeing many place with DIY oil changing stations with vacuum pumps.
 
#13 ·
If it's within limit (even if it's "at" limit), you're fine. That's why they give you a range rather than a point. A little wiggle room.
 
#11 ·
After you drain it the first time you have a pretty good idea how much is needed to refill it and would not be over by much if at all.
Take a little drive or let it idle to temp. If it is not between the marks, pour a little more in with the funnel. Yeah, the funnel might be a little messy now, but it's not like this is something you have to do that often except for the 3X when doing an exchange.
I think the MityVac, etc. is a neat option, but personally, I can not justify it except in the Mercedes scenario.
 
#12 ·
The MV is just another tool for your arsenal. It makes power steering fluid changes a breeze. I found it helpful, but did not completely empty the oil and tranny pans as I still had some drainage when I opened the drains. I was not pleased with the MV used for brake fluid changes... too much air sucks in around the threads of the bleeder screw, so the job is slow... but I think that would be a problem using any vacuum source, including compressed air.

And then you have the job of cleaning it up when done... at least I do. But it does make it easy to suck out a bit if you overfill. Then again, the Fumoto Valve does the same thing for the oil sump.
 
#14 ·
It would be messy, but technically you could crack the trans drain bolt enough to let out excess. Of course that would be a waste too. I doubt overfilling enough to create a problem is very common in any case.
I would agree on the PS reservoir. I've always gone the turkey baster route, it is slow for sure.

Amsoil puts out a nice little siphon pump.. not sure what they run.

I have a little suction pump with tubing I bought from Blackstone Labs for taking oil samples, years ago. I think I may have only used it once. I suppose I could use it for other small siphoning activities.
It's really overpriced now at $30. I think I paid $24 at the time, even that was a lot. It is nice to look at though. Beautiful job of machining. LOL
 

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#15 · (Edited)
I use the MityVac on 4 cars (only 3 work with engine oil, but there are other fluids), a lawn mower, 2 chain saws, a weed eater and recently to get the the stuff out that collects at the bottom of a water softener. I siphoned most of the water out with a hose, but I couldn't get the last few inches where the gunk was when the levels evened out. Of course I added a 4 or 5 feet of new clean poly hose. The thing I like about the MityVac is that it captures the fluid in a convenient closed, handled, container that stands out of the way in the garage until I use its pour spout to return the fluid, in the case of oil, back to the used bottles and then right to the curb for recycling.

The only downside Ive found is that if you are not careful you can sling oil when you remove the suction tubes if they get away from you especially because the oil flows so well when its hot and the suction tubes also soften up a bit when hot. But after I did this a few times I made a storage tube out of PVC pipe so now all I do is pull the tubes out through a shop rag and put them right into the PVC pipe. The suction tubes continue to drip a little but they are inside the pipe.

This may all sound like more effort than its worth, but after you do this a few times, it goes faster than any oil changes I've done from years past. This plus the "turn the tire, reach under with a plastic bag, remover filter method" and you can almost do this in nice clothing. All in all I find it a pretty handy device. I just have the one that sucks. Others dispense as well but it seems in that case you would have to make more of an effort not to contaminate fluids.

Ive also historically used a turkey baster, especially in the case of replacing brake pads where you need to remove a little fluid so you don't overrun the reservoir. No biggie I know but with the baster you have to possibly make two "sucks" and plan ahead with a jar and rags or turn the baster on end to get the baster away to drain the fluid and then come back for another pass possibly. Still no biggie because this is the way I always did it, but considering what brake fluid does to paint, etc. the MV has just made the process a little easier. The baster was always a good option and with brake fluid I just bought a 4 pack at Smart and Final and only used them once.
 
#16 ·
I use the MityVac on 4 cars (only 3 work with engine oil, but there are other fluids), a lawn mower, 2 chain saws, a weed eater and recently to get the the stuff out that collects at the bottom of a water softener. I siphoned most of the water out with a hose, but I couldn't get the last few inches where the gunk was when the levels evened out. Of course I added a 4 or 5 feet of new clean poly hose. ...
.​

Which Mityvac do you use ? ... 7400 (hand pump?)?
I am interested in getting one; but the 7400 has many bad reviews with leaks after i-3 use... any truth to that?

.​
 
#17 · (Edited)
I do have the 7400 and have had zero issues with it. I cant remember exactly how long Ive had it, but in the range of 3-5 years and Ive used it quite a bit. I didn't pay that much for it. It was something like $40 with one of the fathers day online sales from one of the major parts houses. I wonder if Summit sells it?

It is a big piece of Chinese made plastic, but MityVac has been in the business as long as anyone, and their stuff is in professional garages across the nation, and you can buy complete replacement parts so other than manu origin, and that's pretty much the case no matter what, so I don't have anything bad to say.

Pela is another brand, but their stuff seems considerably more expensive and I haven't heard that they are any better. MityVac certainly seems to have a handle on the professional garage market when it comes to these things. My .2 cents anyway... other experiences anyone?

http://www.pelaproducts.com/

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=190949&page=1

and there are many more similar discussions, but the 7400 works well for me
 
#18 ·
The MityVac has a good reputation and a lot of the guys at the Mercedes forums use them. I saw this extractor on youtube (see below) and found it at Amazon for less than fifty bucks so I just ordered it. It has one bad review and a few good ones so that is about par for the course. It is probably China junk too but I like the fact that you just hook it up to the battery and it sucks everything out with no pumping or priming.

My Mercedes takes about seven quarts I think so I'll have to find a large bucket to put the oil in, unlike the self contained units. Like Schwejo said, that is the one thing I liked about the MityVac. I think another advantage of the battery operated unit is that it should be more powerful and may do the job in a lot less time. I think I'll test it on my lawn tractor when it arrives from Amazon.

 
#21 · (Edited)
Re: ATF drain plug

I couldn't locate the ATF drain plug while looking at the bottom engine compartment from the front of the 2012 RL... is it different from the 2008? I don't see any blue plug!
Trying to locate things to see if it is possible to do most fluids without lifting RL... but clearance is worst in the front: only 10" (ground to front central jack point) whereas sides are 12.5".
I was able to locate the Engine oil plug, the oil filter, the ATF fill plug ; the transfer case plug (is it for both draining and refill with Hypoid?).

Now for the ATF plug: in what area is it located? by the Hypoid (transfer case)?: because I see there a fairly large plug, without any marking or coloring like the Engine Oil or Hypoid ... is it facing the passenger side or driver side? the front or the back of the RL?

Any tip is appreciated... thanks.

.
 
#22 · (Edited)
Yeah, it is different and we should modify the posts accordingly (if we could find them all).

Look at the back left side (2009-) instead of the front right side (2006-2008). Someone with a later vintage than 2008 made us aware of that sometime back.

Regarding the transfer assembly, there is a bottom drain plug and a side fill plug. I don't think Honda moved that from 2009-.


You should be able to get to all fluids without lifting the RL (unless you're really big). You won't be able to do it on a creeper though. For ease of working space, I like to lift by the central jack points and slide my nifty 6t jackstands under the side lift points and get some working room underneath if I'm doing much more than an oil and filter change or tranny fluid change. It's generally time to rotate the tires anyway so it's no big deal.

The most difficult part will likely be loosening the fill bolts before you drain anything. Those are typically put on there tight.
 
#24 ·
Yes, the picture above is of the transfer assembly (transfer case).
 
#27 ·
Re: ATF Drain Plug for 2012 RL

I think this is the one because I don't see any other plug on either side of the tranny: it is facing the driver front tire side.... no marking or coloring but it is 3/8 size.
It can be serviced just sitting on a small stool ( if that is really the one).
Nope, that's not it. I have the same plug on mine and have no idea what it's for.

It's too high up to be the drain plug.


The thread schwejo linked to shows the 2006-2008 tranny drain location. The 2009- tranny drain is the opposite side and towards the rear. I don't have an image of the new drain location.
 
#28 ·
Here's a schematic that looks like it shows the 2009- tranny drain plug on the left front of the case, not the left rear as I thought I'd read here.


Source:
http://www.collegehillshondaparts.c...ansmission-automatic/at-torque-converter-case

For reference, the pic in the thread schwejo linked shows the 2006-2008 transmission drain plug which is located on the front right of the case (when viewed from the front of the RL looking towards the driver).


Can someone with a 2009- RL take a pic of the tranny drain plug and show where it's located to confirm this?
 
#31 ·
ATF Plug RL 2009+

2 walls/partition are on front and back of the plug; and unless one is positioned passenger side; the plug will be hidden from view because of those 2 walls (a little higher than the plug itself).
I imagine those walls are there to minimize any fluid splashing when the plug is removed.
 

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#32 ·
When I had my RL and the VUE I used my pella extractor for the oil and ATF.

When I did the switch to DW, I did an initial bolt drain then the extractor for the next two fluid exchanges. For the oil, I would extract, especially in the winter, and every few oil changes I would drain via the pan.
 
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