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building a clean 10'' setup

4K views 29 replies 5 participants last post by  IanRTL 
#1 ·
Lets get to it.

In this Thread we shall put a

Sub: 10'' Pioneer Champion Series Sub 350W RMS / 1000 Max

Amp: MRP-M500 300RMS at 4ohm/ 500RMS at 2ohm

Headunit: IVA-w505





Already have sub wired for 2ohm load from the amp
(350rms sub powered by 500rms amp with gain half way down)
Should be decent ?

I like to always get an amp with a little more power than the subwoofer can handle for the purpose of knowing you can lightly overpower the sub but thats why there are ''gain'' on the amp so you can lower it
I find systems with a stronger amp than sub but with lower gain sound better than RMS matching.


so lets begin where is the best spot you guys use for GROUND ? is my wire long enough ?


Will most likely build the box myself
With the above gear what do you guys think I should go with ported or sealed ?
there is not much room in terms of height for the box especially with the subwoofer being tall as it is.
 
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#2 ·
Use an existing threaded factory spot for the ground, like a seat belt. I used that black hook area, picture above on the bottom of the picture, you need an M8 bolt or you may use existing if the ring terminal is thin enough. Seat belt ground threads need a bigger hole than 5/16 most likely a 1/2 inch hole.

I would use a voltmeter to set the gain on the amp and adjust lower from there if needed, I see no point of wiring for 2 ohms for 500w when the sub can only handle 350 w but if you calculate the voltage formula properly you can secure a limited power output from the amp.
 
#3 ·
there is nothing wrong throwing a little extra juice at subwoofer rated under the RMS power of the amp
some subs that are rated as 700rms can take 1000rms at full gain all day.
I dont need a volt meter to know that in my setup I need to turn the gain about half way and it should be perfect.

as for the hook thing the bottom right you mean ? I couldn't see any bolts i am assuming they are all behind the plastic trims ?
 
#4 ·
Hard to answer the question of sealed vs. vented without modeling the response of the driver in a cabinet. Most woofers really work best in one design, even though they can produce good results in both.

I think it also depends on what your goals are and what kind of sound you like. In every case thought a vented box will be larger. It is more difficult to build because the actual internal volume and the vent has a huge impact on the final sound. A sealed box is harder to screw up. It may produce deeper bass ultimately because of the slower drop in response. When combined with the bass gain of the interior it may produce flat response to 25-30Hz in the Ridgeline.
 
#6 ·
There is plenty of room for a 10 inch sub in a vented box if that's what you want. My sealed box is 0.7 cu. ft. and uses less than half the width of the rear seat. You have about 9 inches of height to work with.

But I generally would recommend sealed for the reasons above.

I suggest downfire for a 10 - better protection for the driver and less chance of causing rattles within the rear seat itself.
 
#8 ·
I mean firing down towards the floor. It means your box needs feet to give the woofer clearance. Downfiring prevents damage to the driver and eliminates the possibility of crap falling into the cone causing rattles.
 
#10 ·
You make legs for the box and elevate it slightly. Subs and low resonance sound waves are not directional and can be mounted in pretty much any position given adequate spacing to move the air.
 
#16 ·
Heavens... Gour, whatever you're smoking you need to share because this is being made about twice as complicated as it should be. Up, down, or sideways there has to be at least .75 to an inch of space in front of the cone for it to move the air it needs to. If you bought a woofer that wont fit upside down then it aint gonna work facing up either. If you make it down firing then you wont have to worry about crud getting placed on top of the cone and you'll have a shelf to put stuff on (that'll shake) when the seats are up.
 
#19 ·
Gouranga - I think you are reading challenged. And unable to use a measuring tape.

YOU CANNOT TAKE A TEN INCH WOOFER AND FACE IT SIDEWAYS UNDER THE SEAT OF THE RIDGELINE. THE WOOFER FRAME IS LARGER IN DIAMETER THAN THE HEIGHT YOU HAVE TO WORK WITH UNDER THE SEAT.

How about you build a box 8 inches tall, 18 inches wide, and 11 inches deep. Put the woofer on the face of the box that is 11 inches deep. If you leave the woofer facing up it fires up against the bottom of the seat! If you flip the box over, attach 3/4 inch legs, the box sits off the floor and the woofer fires down!

If you looked at the link I put above you would see that my box does exactly that. With a ten inch woofer.
 
#20 ·
Gouranga! Do what you want or get a pro shop to help you, they gave you the best advice already and there are hundreds of threads here with the same subject and the same outcome. Either listen, read or get pro advice.
 
#21 ·
This is hysterical. Three of the most knowledgeable people on this forum have posted trying to help you and you're literally not comprehending it gour.

+1 on the pro shop.
 
#22 · (Edited)
Yes I know, and those 3 are: Hofffam, Ian and Tpevhouse, He he :act035:
I gave no advice, I just came here to cheer for you guys. :cheerleader:

Great tip on the shelf option to place items on top.

The benefits are.
Store or place items on top if needed
Protect and keep garbage away from the driver more air and sound.
Less vibration or rattles that can be generated on the seat if it is facing up.


The only benefit I see for upfiring is looks if someone wanted to see the drivers. And it may be easier to deaden the floor or cover the carpet, than deaden the the bottom of the seat or cover it. The oter benefit would be a better a~~ massage too :act035:

Even home subwoofers are down firing and for carpeted floors it's on the side, but never upfiring for safety issues.
 
#23 ·
I see what you guys saying now I just didnt like the fact facing my sub down towards the carpet because I like to see the subwoofer now and then.

also I didnt think there will be room for little legs to keep the face above level

I was planning before to make a box so that the sub is facing to the sides.. or even towards the front (front driver seat)
but if there is no room to make the box so sub faces to its side I guess I will downfire
 
#24 ·
I can understand wanting to see the sub, but you should just do what was suggested before. If you build the enclosure so that you can use it upfiring or just simply flip it over for downfiring, you can do whatever you want then. If it truly does sound better when downfiring, you can leave it that way. The little legs can be taken off if you want to keep it upfiring. Several members here have upfiring enclosures and haven't reported many issues with them. If it were me, I'd just prefer to keep the sub cone protected as much as possible.

Also, if you build the enclosure with outside dimensions of 19x11x8, you will only have about 0.50 cu/ft of internal volume after you account for driver displacement. Since your Pioneer sub needs more than that, you'll have to make the enclosure bigger. You don't have a lot of room to move on the 11 (depth) or the 8 (height), but you can elongate the box past 18". If you make it 24" long, you can get about 0.70-0.75 and at 30" you can get 0.90 or so.
 
#26 ·
Thanks well you know my sub and its specs going with a sealed box since its smaller in size... what should my measurments be the 8''x11'' is obvious so then how wide should I go with a 10'' Pioneer 350RMS champion series
I usually listen to electro music ... Afrojack/Hardwell/Avicii

house music needs that bass...


btw ive seen some box's where someone would put foam inside the box what does that do? I have a 10'' box but it doesnt fit under the seats but its stuffed with foam.. any idea why ?
 
#27 ·
If I remember right, it changes the resonance of the woofer and makes the volume louder. If you stuff it too much then you might have heat issues with the woofer. Ian or Hoff can explain it much better as they know what they;re talking about.

I didn't stuff mine and it will make my ears bleed and vibrate the truck easily.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Stuffing a sealed box effectively increases the internal volume of the box. You can stuff a box with fiberglass, polyfill, or acoustic foam. If you use foam, you must use acoustic foam.

Increasing the volume of a sealed box usually causes a slower dropoff in low frequency response. It will play a bit deeper, but may sacrifice a bit of power handling. The smaller the volume, the "stiffer" the air is. That raises the resonant frequency of the system.

But I would instead use polyfill. This is similar to what is in many pillows. Loosely fill the cabinet but make sure it doesn't go into the speaker frame or cover any vents in the magnet.
 
#30 ·
Here's a quick link to explain the use of Polyfil or Acoustastuff or a similar product:

http://www.moodym.com/audio/fiber.html

Basically, using this sort of material in an enclosure that isn't optimum for the driver can make the enclosure seem to be larger. The larger the enclosure, typically, the deeper the bass that can be achieved. The material absorbs and controls the heat energy created by the moving air inside the enclosure and allows the driver to be more efficient. If you build an enclosure that is within the recommended specs for the driver, you should NOT need any of this material. My enclosure ended up being a little small for my driver, so I did stuff mine with Polyfil. I didn't do a before and after test, but, after breaking in for about 100 hours, the inexpensive 10" shallow sub does hit hard and deep for what it is.

Gouranga, if I were you, I would keep the enclosure on the smaller side of the recommended specs (0.65 to 1.25 cu/ft.) if that's the type of music you listen to. You want the bass to be punchy and accurate. A smaller enclosure is the best way to do that. You will need to do some measuring to make sure what you build will fit under the seat. The floor under the seat is not completely flat the whole way back and some tweaks may have to be made. However, if you build one that is 8x11x24 outside dimensions, you will have an enclosure that is 0.70-0.75 cu/ft. Polyfil will likely not be needed, but I always at least line the insides of my enclosures with it as a habit. Maybe use about 0.5 lbs. of it loosely placed inside the enclosure. This should give you good results. Once you get everything put together and installed, then we can work on your settings for best sound production.
 
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