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Building the System...

2K views 17 replies 8 participants last post by  Just Ask 
#1 · (Edited)
Alright guys,

So I have figured out what I want to do, but now I could use all your helping picking out the equipment.

Heres what im looking to do:

Box : 1 Custom Ridgeline box from Subthump. Im not sure if I should get the one with the amp ledge or the one without though. They are both within the .6-.9 rang of the JL's but i'm not installing the amp myself, and I dont know if it will cost me extra if they have to install it behind the seat or not. It also seems to me like the amp would get pretty hot back there, no? Whats the main difference between the two sizes anyways?

Subs : 2x JL Audio 10W3v3-2 Subwoofers

Amp: This is where I could use some suggestions. I need an amp that will power those subs, but for under $175 and it needs to accept speaker level inputs.

Speakers: I have no idea what kind of speakers to get, and whether or not I should buy an amp for them at this time. I am just looking for 2 speakers for the front doors for now. I also dont know if I should get speakers that come with a pair of tweeters or if i should keep the stock tweeters in. But right now i am just looking for something to help boost my systems overall sound quality/loudness and at the moment I am only willing to spend $150 tops for speakers and an amp (if an amp is even needed at the moment).


I am hoping to buy all of this from onlinecarstereo.com since they seem to offer the best prices without being to shady of a store, lol. I know that there are a lot of questions looking to be answered here, but I really no nothing about most of this stuff, and I need to have it ordered within 2 days. I really appreciate all the help you guys have given so far, and I hope you'll all be willing to help a novice pick out his first system. =)


Thanks again for the help guys,
-Dave
 
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#2 ·
So you plan on buying all of this online and taking it where to have it installed?
 
#3 ·
Im going to take it to either Best Buy (I have a friend that works there who could get me a deal) or Stereo One, Audio Express, or a couple of different local places. Unfortunately its going to cost me at least $125 no matter where I take it, but its well worth it considering the damage I would do if I tried to do it myself, haha.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Subs : 2x JL Audio 10W3v3-2 Subwoofers

Amp: This is where I could use some suggestions. I need an amp that will power those subs, but for under $175 and it needs to accept speaker level inputs.

But right now i am just looking for something to help boost my systems overall sound quality/loudness and at the moment I am only willing to spend $150 tops for speakers and an amp (if an amp is even needed at the moment).


-Dave
This is where im getting the info from. You should write it more carefully.;)
 
#6 ·
Most places, if installing customer provided equipment, will offer no warranty whatsoever on anything.

Good luck.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Lol well you changed your post from $125 to $150, and i was talking about speakers in regard to the $150, not subs. But this post has gotten way off topic as is.

I am still looking for a good amp that will put out 500+ RMS. The guy at JL said that 250 for each W3 should be plenty, and especially since I will be running it in a truck. None the less, id rather be safe than sorry, so I'm looking for something in the 500-1000 RMS range.

Perhaps you guys can answer this question for me to:

On the website it says that an amps RMS at 4 ohms is 300 watts x 1 but at 2 ohms its at 600 watts x 1.

I honestly have no idea what that means, but if I am looking to run it at 2 ohms, should I buy two 4 ohm subs?


It seems like this amp suits all my needs: Discount Car Audio, Cheap Online Stereo, CD Players, Amplifiers, Speakers, Subwoofers and more at MobileSoundWorks! but I was wondering if ya'll knew of some other good amps that might be a little bit better for under $250.


Thanks,
-Dave
 
#9 ·
Subs and sub amps must be matched for impedance, otherwise you'll blow the subs, blow the amp, or not achieve maximum power. You say you want two 10" JL3V3 subs, and you want to find an amp to match for $175 with speaker level inputs. That's a tough deal if you want quality equipment.

Those 3V3 subs you linked are single voice coil 2 ohm subs. You can wire them as a 1 ohm pair or a 4 ohm pair. You will not find a new 1 ohm stable 500W sub amp for $175, nor will you find an amp that puts out 500W at 4 ohms for that price, either.

If you're stuck on the JL3V3's, then get the 4 ohm version, 10W3V3-4, not the 2 ohm version you linked. Wire them in parallel (+to+, -to-, +/- to amp) for a 2 ohm load.

For an amp, I'd suggest an Alpine MRP-M500, 500W at 2 ohms, and it will do more. It sucks power, though, so plan on a 2 gauge power run. It's small enough to easily fit behind the rear seat or under the front seat. They're about $250 from a dealer with a warranty, less grey market.
 
#10 ·
Alright I have almost everything nailed down.

The only thing that I am still worried about is hooking this expensive new system up to my stock Navi headunit and not having the quality or the control that I am looking for. If it is possible to hook up the new system to the Navi headunit without sacraficing to much quality, while still being able to control the bass levels then im ready to order.

However, if im going to lose quality, and not have the control over the bass that I am looking for then I was wondering if purchasing something like this would help: Discount Car Audio, Cheap Online Stereo, CD Players, Amplifiers, Speakers, Subwoofers and more at MobileSoundWorks!


Now obviously this will help with the sound quality (which im not sure will suffer that much anyways) will this also enable me to have better control over the bass/subwoofer levels? If not its probably not worth a marginal increase in sound quality (im assuming its marginal I could be wrong. If so feel free to point that out, haha).

Thanks for the help guys,
Should be ready to order everything tomorrow night and I cant wait.
 
#11 ·
Search for Cleansweep in Mobile Electronics. You'll find lots of info.
 
#12 ·
Dave

you're seeking advice here, so I offer the following: I think you are going seriously off-course here and I'm worried that you're not going to like the results unless you do a few changes.

Right now you're proposing on buying two very nice (and expensive) JL 10w3v3s in a subthump box, then powering them with the cheapest ≥500watt sub you can find, and possibly leaving the rest of your system alone. This will certainly give you a system that will pound (in every sense of the word) but the overall sound quality won't be much improved. You'll just have lots and lots of bass.

Here's my suggestions on how to fix this: first, replace the door speakers. If nothing else just replace the front speakers. Many folks around here enjoy the Polks, but virtually anything will be a marked improvement over the stock speakers. They set the soundstage... without decent speakers up front you'll never have a good sounding system. You asked about replacing the tweeter... that depends on what speakers you buy. If you get a component speaker (which is what I recommend) you'll have a new woofer to put in the door and a new speaker to mount in the dash (or anywhere you like... some prefer the sail-panel).
Power those with a small amp. I use a 4x50

Once you've figured out an amp/speaker combination for your doors, you can worry about the subs. As I said earlier I have a single 10" JL 10w3 in a subthump box, and it gives me plenty (plenty!) of bass for my tastes... but you seem to want to be able to shake the fillings out of your teeth. Plenty of people have the dual subthump box and they seem to like it a lot. You're just going to be buying an extra driver and a larger amp to get that spleen-bruising bump. If that's what you want, go for it. You can put the amp behind the rear seat, but it can be a pain to adjust. The subthump-box with the amp shelf is the easiest, but reduces the CF somewhat for each sub. Mine is under the drivers-seat. I can adjust the settings easily by removing the trim-panel on the back of the seat.
But unless you take the time to upgrade the other (arguably more important) speakers in your truck I think you'll be dissapointed with the results.

just my input, i hope it helps
 
#13 ·
Sprite - I agree with most of what you say.

The OP's investment is 100% in bass. Yet he has not said per se that he wants to rattle the windows and announce he's in the neighborhood.

Most here know the factory door speakers are close to awful. The factory headunit is certainly adequate and worth keeping especially with nav.

My audio upgrade was focused on an across the board improvement in sound quality - clarity, frequency range, bass quality, and loudness. Almost two years later, I have no desire for more bass than I get from a single high quality 10 in a closed box under half of the rear seat.

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/mobile-electronics/6057-my-new-subwoofer.html
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...s/6783-audio-system-nearly-complete-pics.html

For the OP - not trying to criticize what you're doing. Just questioning a few of your priorities. If big bass is what you want - go for it.
 
#14 ·
A simple, more balanced system may be a better choice. A single DVC 10" woofer, replace the door speakers and run it all with a quality 5 channel amp. The single sub, if set up properly, will allow the OP to retain some storage space under the rear seat and reduce the amount of audio equipment weight that the truck will have to haul around all the time. Tuning may be a little easier as well.
 
#15 ·
I thought I had everything figured out. I picked out a nice pair of components speakers, and amp to go with them, a nice hifoniks for the subs, and then when I thought I picked out the perfect sub I find out it wont fit.

I was going to go with the apline type-R, but from the specs i am seeing it looks like that sub is like 3/8 of an inch to big for the subthump box...talk about a let down.

I do appreciate all of your guys help though. You steered me more towards the direction I wanted to go in and answered my ridiculous questions without hardly any ridicule. =P

Now all I need to do is find another sub...unless I am being ridiculous and it turns out the Type-R will fit in the subthump box (crossfingers).



Thanks again guys,
Dave
 
#17 ·
I was going to go with the apline type-R, but from the specs i am seeing it looks like that sub is like 3/8 of an inch to big for the subthump box...talk about a let down.
I had a Type R, but I wound up switching for a JL 10w3. why? the type R didn't fit! So you have the same problem I did. You can either find a new sub or create a spacer-ring to get the type R to fit... I believe you only need one that's 3/16". For me it was much simpler just to exchange the sub for a different one.

Downside to using a spacer is that you'll loose that much excursion distance, which means the sub might hit the carpet when it really hits hard (less excusion distance).
 
#16 ·
I use a MB QUART RSH254 10" sub in a single subthump box and it Thumps really hard, It is a DVC sub and it rattles the truck to pieces.. :)

I use a Rockford Fosgate P325.1 to drive it, Unbelievable loud and clean...

My system specs..

HU: Kenwood Excelon KDC-X990.
HD: Kenwood KTC-HR200 HD Radio Tuner
Components Front: Rainbow Germanium 6.5 cs265.25.
Components Rear: Pioneer TS-C160R's.
Sub: MB QUART RSH254 10" 800 Watt in subthump HR-110 .75 cu.ft.Box.
Sub Amp: Rockford Fosgate P325.1.
Component amp: Rockford Fosgate p850.4.
knukonceptz Battery Clamps.
Stinger fuseblock and Distro block.
Stinger 0 Gauge Power Wire to amps.
Stinger 1.0 Gauge Power Wire to the amps from the Distro block.
Stinger 1.0 Gauge Power Wire ground wire.
knukonceptz 12 gauge wire to speakers.
knukonceptz Rca wires.
Truck is triple layered all over with Fatmat soundproofing,
 
#18 ·
I have an amp that I have had good results from...a Hifonics ZXi8800. Five channels, so it drives my 4 main channels and also my 2 JL 10" subs. It also has a remote Bass control knob that allows you to instantly adjust the amount of bass gain as you listen to different sources. Here's a link that I Googled:

ZXI8008 - Car Audio/Stereo - Car Audio/Stereo Accessories - Hifonics - Hifonics Car Audio ZXI8008 "Zeus ZXI" 5-Channel Car Amplifier 740 Watts RMS

It's priced well. I've had mine for about 2 years and never a hiccup. Just another avenue to consider.
 
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