Have read that the OEM filter would need a 65MM 14 flute cup type wrench. Can anyone verify please as well as a place that I can purchase? Also will aftermarket filters have the same exterior dimensions as the OEM? Took my RL to tire shop and they overtightened filter and now I need a wrench and prefer the cup style. Won't be making that mistake again!
H and A sells the cup filter wrench. As far as other filter sizes? I don't think they are the same, but I could be wrong. I have both a cup and strap. I've used both as well. As a few times the filter has been so tight that the cup wrench slips, and had to use the strap one.
I can't tell you the mm sizes, but I do know that my filter wrench from Advance Auto fits the A01 perfectly, but I need to put a round of gaffer tape around the A02s to make them grip.
I used a pair of pump pliers on my first oil change to get mine off. Its not ideal but its all I had and it did the job. Dealer had it so damn tight it was't even funny. Hand tight people hand tight that's all it takes.
LOL same here. I've always done my own oil changes and have never had or needed a filter wrench. I you put it on hand tight all you will need is your hand to get it off when the time comes.
Thank you for the response. I maintain two Pilots and my Ridgeline for my family so I usually have a bunch of filters ready to go. I have a couple AO2 filters left on the shelf and six AO1's. So, AO1 it is.
I got a set of these for all our cars , I know some filters do not quite fit properly, I had issues with the supertech filters, all others, wix, purolator, napa gold fit just fine. Not sure about the Honda Filter, in any case for $5.99 just the aluminum is worth the cash probably.http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-end-cap-oil-filter-wrenches-94096.html
And the Purolator Pure 1 has non slip paint so haven't had to use a wrench for as long as I can remember. Of course an over tightened filter is a different story.
My hands have been a little warm a few times, but I let things cool enough not to get burned. Also, if the oil is too hot, then its too easy to get a little hole if you use the freezer bag over the filter trick and that's no fun, and I wouldn't know anything about dropping the whole thing, missing my drip pan, and covering myself and driveway with oil.
My last change I got the Purolator Synthetic. Since I only change once a year, it seemed like a good idea. But then, what do I know?
I like the non-slip finish on the can too. Plus, it seems to be very robust besides.
I buy this oil filter wrench on ebay. item 370669916534 $10.75 free s/h. for toyota matirx 64 mm. It fit toyota 64mm, honda oem oil filter, as well as napa, wix filter. 100% work 100 % fit.
Purolator Classic filters are the best value out there - replacing the Supertech filters that used to be of much better quality. There is no need to make an oil filter too tight. I use the method of one full turn once the rubber seal makes contact with the mounting surface. I've never had any leaks and I've never had to use a wrench to get an oil filter to come off. If you can't turn the old filter by hand when you're trying to remove it, you put it on too tight.
I only install my oil filters by hand, and 90 % of the time I can not remove them by hand even though I do not tighten them hard, the $6 wrenches is my insurance for removing them rather than the hammer screwdriver twist method that I had to do once before on my truck
Do you coat the gasket with a thin film of fresh oil when you put the new filter on? I don't know if that would make a difference or not, but that is my normal practice. I dip my finger in fresh oil and wet the gasket, add some oil to the inside of the filter, then tighten it snugly by hand. I never have a problem removing by hand.
Same here. Wipe the mating surface and then coat the rubber seal on the filter with a little clean oil. Easy on, easy off. Never any issues turning it by hand when changing.
Applying oil to the gasket also keeps it from tearing or spinning in the filter housing. Be careful when adding oil to the filter, the big hole in the middle is the clean side of the filter.
I always put oil on the gasket and new oil inside the filter. Lately I have been able to remove by hand but still have a tough time doing it, maybe removing it cold maybe be easier than when it is hot
I fill the filter, too. About 3/4 full so I don't spill any when spinning it on. I know this may or may not be necessary, but I've just always done it as a best practice. In the back of my mind, I think it's better that the filtering element is soaked in oil beforehand rather than having it forced into a dry filter.
My favorate oil filter removal tool when I was working at the dealer, at an independent shop, and now in my own shop. I get some ROP students through my doors every once in a while, and they usually start off with lube tech duties. Many of them on the first day will ask me for a filter wrench and look at me weird when I hand them my channel locks. I leave it up to them to figure it out.
I had many cars that allow no room for any wrench or tool to be used. And the only wrench that will work has to be with a 3/8 extension and ratchet, like the one I posted on the link before.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums
1.3M posts
86.9K members
Since 2004
Honda Ridgeline Owners Club, forum community to discuss reviews, accessories, performance, care, mods, and more.