Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums banner
Cancel
Create thread New Garage Forums

Aftermarket Camera It Can Be Done!

Jump to Latest
151K views 214 replies 79 participants last post by  Russ55  
B
#1 · (Edited)
It can be done! Aftermarket rearview camera using the factory navigation plug. No need for a video converter or to find the backup light wire under the dash! Total cost was about $70.00 and about three hours of work. Best of all you don't need to spend $300.00 on a video interface!

The reverse signal is already in the navigation unit so when you put it in reverse it automatically switches the video display to the rearview camera. Thanks to PUG and his wiring diagram I was able to figure out which wires to use. It did take a little courage and some trial and error to get it working. See PUG’s diagram here http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16231

The back of the navigation unit has a seven (7) pin plug for connecting the factory backup camera. Pin one (1) on the navigation unit is the pin all the way to the left. The Molex plug that I used is a six (6)-pin plug.

Plug type to use is a Molex, part number is WMLX-103. Available from www.Frys.com for $2.85. Frys part number is 1899306.

The factory plug on the back of the navigation unit has a pin configuration as follows:

Pin (1) is a constant 8 volts dc. I assume that is the voltage the factory camera uses but its not enough to power an aftermarket 12vdc camera.
Pin (2) is the video ground or shield
Pins (3 & 4) are not used
Pin (5) is the video line (center pin)
Pins (6 & 7) are jumpered together. I’m not sure what they do but they have to be jumpered together.

Although there are seven pins on the factory navigation plug you only need four of them to make it work. Looking at the picture below Pin (7) would be all the way to the right. As you can see it is jumpered to pin (6). This plug needs to be inserted into the back of the factory navigation unit under the drivers seat so that pin (1) on the left is not used.

In the next picture below, the plug is inserted so that the pins all the way on the right are used and pin (1) has nothing on it.
 

Attachments

B
#2 ·
License Plate Camera picked up on Ebay for $64.99 (no one bid on it). I had to notch the license plate to allow the wire to pass through the hole behind it. Not the prettiest thing but it did the trick.

The camera needs power and needs to be activated when the truck is put in reverse. In order to do this I tapped into the backup lights on the passenger side of the vehicle. Lower the tailgate and remove the two 10mm hex bolts. Once the screws are out all it took was a little wiggling to remove the tail light assembly. As someone had pointed out before, the orange wire is ground and the green with a black stripe is +12vdc. I pushed everything back into the plastic casing with the exception of the two splices and taped it up.
 

Attachments

B
#3 · (Edited)
I had to remove the bed liner against the cab and on the driver’s side to run the video wire into the cab. A word of advice here, remove the left and right upper and lower tie-down hooks. It makes removing the back panel and side panel easier. Also remove the two nuts securing the roof trim and pull the left side up. You can get the upper cargo light panel out without removing it but it’s tough to get the upper clip back in when reinstalling it unless you lift up the roof trim. I ran the wire inside the driver’s side of the bed up to the back of the cab. You can see the white oval shaped piece of plastic on the back of the cab. It has three rubber flaps on it. I assume its something to do with how air circulates around the cab. I ran the wire through there into the cab using a coat hanger. Attach the video wire to the coat hanger and poke it straight down and to the left (drivers side) through the plastic port. You do not have to remove the rear seat, just fold it up and remove the lower center section of trim that covers the seat belts and seatbelt anchors. Grab the end of the trim and pull gently and it will come free and then work your way along until it comes off. Go inside the cab and through the bottom of the seat I was able to get my hand behind the back seat and grab the coat hanger without any problems. Sorry but I forgot to take a picture of the wire going through the plastic port.

Pull the wire out the bottom of the seat and tuck it up under the driver’s side plastic molding.

Remove the driver’s side sill trim and tuck the wire under the carpet. I used a coat hanger to feed the wire under the carpet and “insulation’ so that it came out behind the driver seat. The carpet can be pulled back from under the heating vents and you can reach your hand down under the carpet to grab the wire/coat hanger.
 

Attachments

B
#4 · (Edited)
Although you can't see it, I did wire tie everything to keep things neat and tidy. The lines on the navigation display are from my digital camera not the rearview cam. The rearview picture from the camera is crystal clear. Must be something to do with the monitor refresh rate.
And there you have it!
 

Attachments

S
#5 ·
According to the factory manual, pin 6 is Camera Shield ("shield for terminal No. 1 to No. 7") and pin 7 is Camera Adaptive ("Control signal for rearview camera"). A bit cryptic, but I suspect that pin 7 is the sense line that tells the Nav unit that a camera is present (it knows somehow). So what you did was ground that signal using the shield ground, enabling the function.

Good work!
 
B
#8 ·
Yes. The image is reversed. I think just about all the rearview cameras on Ebay have a reversed (flipped) image.

I'm still undecided if I like this camera. The camera quality and picture are good and it works perfectly. However, I'm thinking a camera mounted higher up would give a better view. I'm just not sure I want to be drilling holes in my tailgate.
 
S
#9 · (Edited)
You have probably seen the same cameras that I have at FRY’S, they do have a pretty good selection of small cameras that would tuck pretty easily into the gate release or maybe even behind or in a hole in the top plastic gate cover. I’ve seen some pictures somewhere, but can’t recall what kind of room is in there, but some of the cameras are pretty small, like the cylinder ones that install like door peephole. I don’t mind cutting holes in plastic parts that are replaceable without some huge effort. Some of the little wireless ones can also be powered by a 9v battery (for your covert operations) No, just thinking about the 9v pin on the NAV unit, but a wireless model does make wiring it all up a little easier assuming that there aren’t interference problems. One of the wireless camera options at FRYS has a receiver that will handle 4 cameras, so it would be easy to wire one in the front if you had a particular need. That may be overkill, but I think the receiver is $40 or $50 and each camera is $30, so does add up, but still less than OEM. I have the VR3 wireless camera and its works very well. I mounted it on top of the hitch cross member, and I'm not that happy with the vantage point that it provides, but after having 3 neighbor boys crawl in the back one day I realized that any license frame cam would very quickly be used as a step by someone or have something set on it which would mean that isn’t an option- even if I were to be careful with it, it is in a vulnerable place when the gate is swung open. I have added reverse sensors which I use more than the reverse cam, but now I am going to attempt to get the vr3 camera to display on the NAV because that screen is in a much more useful position and then look into mounting the camera in a more useful place as well…. or so it seems?!
 
#11 ·
schwejo said:
...but now I am going to attempt to get the vr3 camera to display on the NAV because that screen is in a much more useful position and then look into mounting the camera in a more useful place as well…. or so it seems?!
Click to expand...
Have you considered something like this? Works really well and is right next to the rearview mirror. :cool:
 
#10 ·
The Info On The Back Up Camera Is Very Helpful . Does Anyone Know If You Can Hook-up A Second Video Source To The Factory Nav. I Have A Dvd System Mounted In The Headrests For My Kids But I Can't See The Screens From The Front And Getting Directions From A Five Year Old Drives Me Crazy. I Would Like To Be Able To Flip The Video On Long Enough To Get It Started. Any Help Would Be Greatly . Thanks Sully
 
S
#12 ·
That does look like a very nice solution. I do like the display location, right next to the mirror- would seem like the most ideal solution even better then right in the middle of the dash. Ive already replaced the OEM mirror with a Gentex one or maybe Donnelly? with compass and temp display. I'm wondering the size of the video mirror because you mention liking the larger size of the mirror. That is also something I like about the one I installed, from a wrecked Chevy Tahoe, its somewhat bigger than the OEM Honda and I feel it gives a much better view of things.
 
#13 ·
schwejo said:
I'm wondering the size of the video mirror because you mention liking the larger size of the mirror. That is also something I like about the one I installed, from a wrecked Chevy Tahoe, its somewhat bigger than the OEM Honda and I feel it gives a much better view of things.
Click to expand...
I initially purchased the OEM autodimming mirror with compass to replace the stock mirror (compass only). The Honda autodimming mirror was much smaller than the mirror I replaced (it was more oval than rectangular). The VideoMirror is more in line with the stock mirror shape but it appears to be a bigger viewing area. The monitor of the VideoMirror measures 3.5". Refer to this link for a more detailed description of the VideoMirror.
 
S
#14 ·
Getting a little off the main thread topic but....

I went to the video mirror link that you posted and was pleased to see that it is a Donnelly product. I'm not so familiar with their consumer products but I do have some good "hobbyist" experience with OEM Donnelly and Gentex mirrors. They both seem to have very robust products!
 
#15 ·
Apparently, Magna Donnelly manufacturers many OEM mirrors for the auto industry. I've had the mirror installed for about 6 months and I have noticed any problems. It functions just as described. The biggest problem I had was getting the mirror. It took awhile for the Hitchcam (the authorized dealer for the VideoMirror) folks to deliver the product.
 
S
#16 · (Edited)
Well you win some and you lose some. Unless anyone has any bright ideas, looks like using the wireless VR3 to drive the NAV display isn’t going to work as hoped. The video image itself is very clear on the NAV display, it’s just upside down. From previous posts it sounds like other cameras should work, just not the VR3 as hoped. As someone already posted the buttons on the VR3 have no affect and I suspect that there isn’t a place tap into the VR3 in a place where you could get an adjusted signal. Anyone know more about the VR3 to say otherwise? Still a big thanks for the wiring diagram. This was the topic of quite a few posts and it just took someone to sit down and work it out. I'm still going to get another wired camera.

On another note, I have a scanner radio that I occasionally turn on when I'm working out in the garage. There was just a call to police dispatch that a lady was requesting someone to go to her home because she left her brown Nissan running on her driveway yesterday when she left for the airport. (Assume she got another ride?) Ohwell, no one is completely immune, I guess?
 

Attachments

S
#20 ·
I am in reverse to display this image. I haven’t looked at the schematic, but it was posted earlier in the thread. Maybe its something as simple as grounding or energizing a particular lead. Seems you should be able to fool it.
 
S
#22 ·
Actually I think ithe image is OK. A little TMI here, but I'm recovering as we speak from a little outpatient hernia patch that I had on friday. Things got too busy for me to finalize how I was going to hook it all up. I may just leave the VR3 under the seat just as a means to end to get the dispaly on the NAV. Seems like a waste of the VR3 display, but my other thought was to make a little bracket that would hold the VR3 just below the hood release. I like to keep things a little incognito. Thats still a compromise, but I had wired it to be on all the time and that would still allow me to have a view to the rear without having to put the drive selector in R. The other thought someone else posted was to mount the VR3 so you could see it when you look over your shoulder which would also be nice, but that goes against my original wish to be able to keep an eye on on anything I might be towing. Im still undecided.

But... looking at this http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=244337&postcount=16

The picture displaying on the VR3 is correct. Its a little hard to see, but the picture is the house across the street. There is a car on the left parked at the curb and the garage is the lower side of the roof line. If you compare it to the pic on displaying on the NAV it looks like the pic is simply upside dowm and that mechanically rotating the camera would produce the exact picure on the NAV that is now showing on the VR3. Of course the VR3 image would now be upside down, but of course that can be adjusted with the VR3 controls. So unless the Vicodin is getting the best of me, I think the image will be the one I want. This project was on my shortlist to complete, and still is. Hopefully in the next week. I will post progress good bad or otherwise
 
W
#23 ·
Ok I read the whole thread; however I am not understanding one thing. How do you turn the screen to the camera and back again. Is it totally dependent on input power from camera or can you switch from the buttons on the headunit? And what is the inout plug to the right of the one you used on the back of the nav unit?
 
E
#28 ·
BPD138 said:
The factory plug on the back of the navigation unit has a pin configuration as follows:

Pin (1) is a constant 8 volts dc. I assume that is the voltage the factory camera uses but its not enough to power an aftermarket 12vdc camera.
Pin (2) is the video ground or shield
Pins (3 & 4) are not used
Pin (5) is the video line (center pin)
Pins (6 & 7) are jumpered together. I’m not sure what they do but they have to be jumpered together.
Click to expand...
My new camera arrived today and I will be installing it tomorrow. Do you happen to know if pin 1 was always hot at 8vdc or only at 8vdc when in reverse? My camera has a wide tolerance of input voltage and if the 8vdc is switched by reverse it would be a handy spot to pickup power for the camera.

TIA
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
B
#29 ·
Hi,

From what I can remember pin (1) is always hot (8vdc) when the truck is turned on. It would make more sense to get the reverse signal for power from the taillights because its a shorter distance to the camera. If you are using an aftermarket video switcher such as the soundgate VIDHOND4 it is much easier to get the reverse signal from the drivers side rear passenger rocker panel. You can get constant 12vdc power from the rear Auxillary power outlet on the back of the center console. Just pop the back off the center console and tap into the outlet wires. Its also easy and neat to run the wires to the underside of the drivers seat

Good luck,

Willie
 
S
#31 ·
Just an alternate way to mount a VR3 display. Downside is that it’s not exactly line of site, when looking forward but the wheel spokes do provide a full view and I do have the VR3 also displaying on the NAV display. (even though the image is reversed) I’ll have to see how it is to live with a reversed image. Right now I’m thinking that as long as you are aware of the situation, it’s still a pretty big help in most situations over no image.

The dash construction is symmetrical on the right side so I can easily move the camera to the right side if I don’t end up liking it on the left. That would put it a little more in the field of view when you are checking your mirror. The camera is just attached with Velcro brand “industrial” adhesive which I find works pretty well even in hot car interiors. The bracket will just hang there, but I also put a spot of Velcro between it and the dash just to attach it a little better and stop any possible rattles.
 

Attachments

#32 ·
That is a clever mount and would be good for mounting switches as well as monitors! Thanks for posting.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
S
#33 ·
The material is just some left over 12 in wide aluminum termite barrier used in construction. It’s pretty thin and easy to work with. I folded the sides over about a quarter inch first for a little added strength and to remove sharp edges and then just fastened it together with a couple pop rivets. I started out looking for something slightly heavier, but for my use this ended up to be quite strong. This isn’t going anywhere, and I can press the display controls without any back movement. I did like that using something relatively thin doesn’t separate the panels much, but ideally I think I would have started out with a little heavier material.
 
E
#34 · (Edited)
Here is my take on the aftermarket camera discussion..

First thanks to BPD138 for his work to provide us the pinout and wiring information. Also thanks to others in the thread and linked threads that provided answers to my questions.

I tried using the VR3 camera and for me I had too much interference for my taste. The interference combined with the fact that the image was not reversed and the night time light sensitivity was fairly weak lead me to seek another camera.

After a fair amount of research, I decided to go with a Boyo VTE100 camera that can be purchased in the $119 - $129 range. The Boyo cameras have low current draw, very good night time low light sensitivity and a wide field of view. I created my own bracket to mount the camera at the license plate. As outlined in the first post, I routed my wires down the drivers side of the bed behind the composite panels and into the cabin at the same point. I did wire the camera into the driver's side tail light to pickup power since I already had the drivers side panels removed.

A wide angle and fairly close range picture of the mounting are attached below. I did not include pictures of the install since they were well documented in the first post.

Not to bash the VR3 but I found for my taste the Boyo provides a much better image at a slightly higher cost. Night time performance is a dramatic improvement over the VR3. YMMV

I welcome any questions or comments....

Image


Image
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
J
#35 ·
Thanks for the information ExF150Driver, your set up looks great and much better than the OEM look. I'm thinking of doing a copy cat of your job on my 07 RTL, with the same camera and wiring hook up that was supplied from BPD138into the Navagation. I'm a little concerned with the wiring without the interface, but I'm going to give it a shot. I just bought my Truck two weeks ago.
Do you think when you get a chance that you could post a picture of your image from the Nav so I can see what your seeing with that particular camera and placement?
 
E
#38 ·
I'll get some pictures tomorrow and post them as requested. If you are worried about the wiring the connector to the Nav unit I can solder one up for you and leave a RCA jack on the video connection. I'd only ask that you cover the parts and shipping no charge for the labor.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums
posts
1.4M
members
98K
Since
2004
Honda Ridgeline Owners Club, forum community to discuss reviews, accessories, performance, care, mods, and more.
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Second Generation Ridgeline (2G 2017+) 1G Problems & Issues General Honda Ridgeline Discussions Shoppin' and Test Drivin' 2G Problems, Fixes & TSB's