My A136 maintenance experience - Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums
     Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums
Go Back   Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums > Honda Ridgeline Accessories, Care and Mods > Under The Hood / Performance


RidgelineOwnersClub.com is the premier Honda Ridgeline Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-18-2008, 11:14 AM   #1
xd9x19
ROC Rank: 1k Comma Club
2006 RTL
White / Beige
 
xd9x19's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Cordova, TN
Posts: 1,067
Send a message via AIM to xd9x19
My A136 maintenance experience

This was for my 2006 Ridgeline. Posts 268 and 269 in this thread indicate the drain plug for the transmission is now located on passenger side of transmission instead of driver's side. Mod note: this is for 2009 and up models. for 2008 and earlier, the info below is accurate.

I did the required maintenance for the A136 minder this past weekend at 43,866 miles. I bought my transmission fluid and VTM-4 fluid at a local Honda dealer. I did get the 2 washers for the differential bolts, but the service counter guy said he only had the two he sold me because they didn't use that many of them. According to him, only the oil pan bolt really required the change of washers each time. The washers on my Ridgeline didn't looked deformed or "crushed" in any way. All the washers fit flat against the bolt head and the mating surface, but I went ahead and used the two I bought for the differential. Since the Honda place didn't have but, I reused the others (2 for transfer case bolts, 1 for transmission drain bolt). I don't' think I'll bother with the washers for future fluid changes.

Caution: The transfer case is in close proximity to the exhaust system, so you may find yourself working close to some hot metal.

Here's a list of items I think you'll want to have on hand to do these fluid changes:
* 3/8" socket wrench, breaker bar and torque wrench (not required, but preferred)
* 1 long (8-10") socket extension
* 1 or 2 short (3") socket extensions
* 17mm socket for transmission refill bolt (all other bolts use the socket wrench's square head)
* drain pan(s)
* funnel with approximately 1 1/2-2 ft of tubing for VTM refill
* pump, turkey baster or other gizmo to aid in getting gear oil into transfer case; after my first transfer case oil change, I found a pump ($8) for boat motor oil at Wal-mart that fits the standard gear oil bottle

If you have these basic items, then changing the VTM-4, transmission and transfer case oil is almost as basic as changing your engine oil and filter. Go for it!!

Here's a summary of my experience and some pictures with changing the three fluids. By the way, I ordered the service manual from H&A and it is an excellent resource. Definitely more information that you will ever use, but worth the money. The only tools for removal and installation of the bolts are a 3/8" socket handle/torque wrench with 1 or 2 short extensions and a 17mm socket for removal of transmission refill hole bolt. All bolts are torqued back to 33-36 ft-lbs. I performed all the maintenance without lifting the vehicle. I found in a couple of cases that while one short extension would work in loosening bolts, using two kept my hands far enough away from the vehicle so that I didn't bang or scrape my hand on the undercarriage once they broke loose.

For my 2006 model, the transmission drain bolt is on the front left (driver's) side of the transmission. (NOTE: drain plug location was moved to passenger rear corner in 2009 - per post 269 on page 27 of this thread). The head of the bolt will have some light blue paint on it (at least mine did). Use a breaker bar to break loosen the bolt enough to be able to unscrew it from the hole and drain the transmission fluid. I don't know if transmission fluid changes color much as it ages, but mine was not dirty looking at all.

After draining the transmission fluid and reinstalling the drain bolt and (old) washer, I discovered that the dipstick hole was too narrow for any funnel I had, but then read in my service manual that the transmission had a refill hole. The bolt on this hole has a 17mm head. I used a long extension (8-10") along with a shorter 3" ratchet extension to loosen the bolt, which unscrewed easily after initially breaking free. I used a transmission fluid funnels with the long spout to refill the transmission fluid.
View of transmission and drain plug (blue) from front of Ridgeline.

All the drain plug and refill bolts have this type of head - just use a 3/8" socket wrench or breaker bar to loosen them up.

View of transmission refill bolt looking down into engine compartment. Easily seen with hood propped open and leaning over driver side fender.

The transfer case oil refill was the most inconvenient of all due to the location of the refill hole. The drain hole for the transfer case sits flush in the housing, parallel to the ground, and you can use a 3/8 socket drive or breaker bar to loosen it. The oil that drained out of my Ridgeline was by no means dirty - it was still a clear gold color. I wondered if it even needed to be changed.

The next task was to refill the gear oil and this was the most problematic part of the whole process. The refill hole is perpendicular to the ground and faces the front of the vehicle, but positioned in such a manner than I couldn't use my torque wrench on it. Instead, I had to use a regular socket wrench with a short extension. To get enough force on the end of the wrench, I oriented myself to use my foot to push on the wrench. Once loose, the bolt unscrewed easily using a short extension.

If you look closely, you'll see that next to the transfer case refill hole, there is text imprinted on the case next to the hole that says "hypoid oil". Not having a better way to get oil into the case, I just stuck the pointed end of gear oil bottle in the refill hole and squeezed until oil started to trickle out the refill hole.

In order to correctly tighten the refill hole bolt on the transfer case, I ran the Ridgeline up on a set of ramps that provided enough ground clearance to easily use my torque wrench to tighten the bolt to the appropriate amount of torque.
Refill hole is at top center; drain plug is visible, but a little hard to see. Look between the "fins" on the underside of the transfer case.

The differential/VTM-4 was also easy to do. The drain and refill bolts on the VTM face the rear of the vehicle and are in a position where they can easily be accessed and removed use a socket wrench or breaker bar. You'll need a short to medium length extension to remove the upper one as it is recessed behind an opening in the frame. As suggested by someone here, the refill of the VTM-4 fluid was accomplished by taking the drain plug out of the trunk, attaching some tubing to the end of a funnel and running the tubing through the drain hole and into the differential refill hole.

(See pictures of VTM fluid change in subsequent post.)

Hope this information helps someone who is considering servicing these components. It's quite easy to do and I spent less on fluids than I did when I paid a local Honda dealer to change the VTM-4 fluid the first time that item came up on the MM.

Last edited by xd9x19; 09-13-2013 at 10:27 AM. Reason: added note about change in transmission drain plug location
xd9x19 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 03-18-2008, 11:29 AM   #2
shovelhd
ROC Rank: Comma Club HOF 10,000+
2006 RTL
Steel Blue / Gray
 
shovelhd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Western MA
Posts: 10,401
Re: My A136 maintenance experience

Nice writeup. One thing. Using your torque wrench as a breaker bar is a great way to ruin it, or at least throw it out of calibration. A real breaker bar is cheap, and saves your expensive tools from damage. Just FYI.
__________________
Shovelhd media installation thread
Kenwood DDX8019*Garmin KNA-G510 Nav 2009 Maps*KCA-BT200 Bluetooth*KTC-HR100 HD Radio Tuner*KTC-V500N TV Tuner (RIP)*KCA-iP200 iPod Adapter*SIR-KEN1 Sirius Satellite Radio Tuner with Lifetime Subscription*Webb OEM XM Antenna Conversion*PPI DCX-730 DSP*Eclipse XA4000 Mains Amp*Rockford-Fosgate T1500bd Sub Amp*Rainbow SLC 265 Front Components*Rainbow 165 SL Rear Coaxials*(2) Diamond Audio D610D4 Subs in Custom Subthump Box*KP Technologies Rollup Modules
shovelhd is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-18-2008, 11:41 AM   #3
xd9x19
ROC Rank: 1k Comma Club
2006 RTL
White / Beige
 
xd9x19's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Cordova, TN
Posts: 1,067
Send a message via AIM to xd9x19
Re: My A136 maintenance experience

Thanks for the input. I did not know that. Now that I think about it, I may have a breaker bar, but it may be a 1/2" instead of 3/8". I need to check on that.

Here's pictures of the differential/VTM-4 fluid change:
Differential viewed from rear of Ridgeline. Note refill plug at top near white label is recessed and a short extension will be needed along with the breaker bar or socket wrench to remove the bolt.

I used a small clamp to keep the tubing from coming out of the refill hole and another clamp to keep funnel upright in trunk during refill.

Last edited by xd9x19; 09-28-2011 at 09:17 AM. Reason: edited for clarity
xd9x19 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-18-2008, 11:53 AM   #4
Exbox
ROC Rank: Sophomore
2006 RTS
Redrock Pearl / Beige
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Seattle WA area
Posts: 226
Re: My A136 maintenance experience

Thanks for the write up.
I'll be looking forward to those picture.
__________________
Exbox
Exbox is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-18-2008, 11:59 AM   #5
shovelhd
ROC Rank: Comma Club HOF 10,000+
2006 RTL
Steel Blue / Gray
 
shovelhd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Western MA
Posts: 10,401
Re: My A136 maintenance experience

NP OP. There are two main kinds of breaker bars. One is like a long handled socket wrench. The other is a solid bar shaped like a "U" with square socket ends on each end. The latter kind are really cheap. You could also use your 1/2" breaker bar with an adapter, up to about 100 ft. lbs. Anything much more than that, and you'll shear off the adapter. Fortunately, you shouldn't have to use a breaker bar on these drain plugs again if you torqued them down correctly.

I had to use an impact wrench on mine to loosen them up for the first time.

BTW I filled my transfer case the same way you did. It just takes a little patience.
__________________
Shovelhd media installation thread
Kenwood DDX8019*Garmin KNA-G510 Nav 2009 Maps*KCA-BT200 Bluetooth*KTC-HR100 HD Radio Tuner*KTC-V500N TV Tuner (RIP)*KCA-iP200 iPod Adapter*SIR-KEN1 Sirius Satellite Radio Tuner with Lifetime Subscription*Webb OEM XM Antenna Conversion*PPI DCX-730 DSP*Eclipse XA4000 Mains Amp*Rockford-Fosgate T1500bd Sub Amp*Rainbow SLC 265 Front Components*Rainbow 165 SL Rear Coaxials*(2) Diamond Audio D610D4 Subs in Custom Subthump Box*KP Technologies Rollup Modules
shovelhd is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-18-2008, 12:04 PM   #6
MrAC1980
ROC Rank: Junior
2006 RTS
Steel Blue / Gray
 
MrAC1980's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 489
Send a message via AIM to MrAC1980
Re: My A136 maintenance experience

Something I haven't mentioned before, but anyone who is into boats, the outboard motor lower unit oil pump is great for filling the rear diff and even the transfer case. It fits into any standard quart bottle and the end is on a 1/4in hose so it can fit anywhere. Best part its only like 10 bucks from any boat store.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...9&classNum=170
__________________
2006 RTS, Acura Wheels, K&N Intake, Flowmaster Exhaust, etc... etc... etc...
MrAC1980 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-18-2008, 12:08 PM   #7
xd9x19
ROC Rank: 1k Comma Club
2006 RTL
White / Beige
 
xd9x19's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Cordova, TN
Posts: 1,067
Send a message via AIM to xd9x19
Re: My A136 maintenance experience

Quote:
Originally Posted by shovelhd View Post
BTW I filled my transfer case the same way you did. It just takes a little patience.
Yep, took me some time too. Worked OK with a full bottle of gear oil, but I don't think it would work very well with a bottle that was less than 3/4 full.

Last edited by xd9x19; 09-28-2011 at 09:18 AM.
xd9x19 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-19-2008, 04:11 AM   #8
Mtnman
ROC Rank: Junior
2006 RTS
Billet Silver / Gray
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Dupage Co. Il.
Posts: 343
Re: My A136 maintenance experience

You can get a plastic screw on cap that has a twist shut-off and about a 3/8 dia. hose that 12-18 in. long that fit on the VTM oil and the transfer case oil containers for about $2.00 each. The tube is clear so you can see the fluid go into the cases. The tubes were long enough that you can almost turn the containers upside down.
Got mine at Miers.

Last edited by Mtnman; 03-19-2008 at 04:14 AM.
Mtnman is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-19-2008, 08:46 AM   #9
BillB
ROC Rank: 2k Comma Club
2008 RTS
Steel Blue / Gray
 
BillB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Long Island
Posts: 2,576
Re: My A136 maintenance experience

Quote:
I used a small clamp to keep the tubing from coming out of the refill hole and another clamp to keep funnel upright in trunk during refill.
In the trunk?
BillB is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-19-2008, 08:49 AM   #10
shovelhd
ROC Rank: Comma Club HOF 10,000+
2006 RTL
Steel Blue / Gray
 
shovelhd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Western MA
Posts: 10,401
Re: My A136 maintenance experience

Some people use a hose and funnel through one of the trunk drains to fill the rear differential. I use a squeeze pump from underneath that avoids this. Mechanic's choice.
__________________
Shovelhd media installation thread
Kenwood DDX8019*Garmin KNA-G510 Nav 2009 Maps*KCA-BT200 Bluetooth*KTC-HR100 HD Radio Tuner*KTC-V500N TV Tuner (RIP)*KCA-iP200 iPod Adapter*SIR-KEN1 Sirius Satellite Radio Tuner with Lifetime Subscription*Webb OEM XM Antenna Conversion*PPI DCX-730 DSP*Eclipse XA4000 Mains Amp*Rockford-Fosgate T1500bd Sub Amp*Rainbow SLC 265 Front Components*Rainbow 165 SL Rear Coaxials*(2) Diamond Audio D610D4 Subs in Custom Subthump Box*KP Technologies Rollup Modules
shovelhd is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums > Honda Ridgeline Accessories, Care and Mods > Under The Hood / Performance

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Taking the Mystery Out of the Maintenance Minder System Webwader Under The Hood / Performance 19 02-18-2011 07:01 PM
Honda Maintenance checklists for service intervals kahnartist Miscellaneous/General Honda Ridgeline Discussions 6 03-24-2010 06:48 PM
Maintenance intervals Greenhouse Problems & Issues 5 11-21-2007 07:49 AM
How many of these maintenance items does your dealer do? DesertRidgeline Miscellaneous/General Honda Ridgeline Discussions 17 10-23-2007 02:33 PM
Maintenance costs xd9x19 Miscellaneous/General Honda Ridgeline Discussions 3 04-11-2006 02:42 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:14 PM.



Views and opinions expressed on this forum are not necessarily those held by Autoforums, Inc. or forum management.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.