TPMS Question???

[Benton]

I have ordered a new set of TSW 17"X8" wheels for my Ridgeline RTL. I am going to use the OE tires.
I have read all, or most, threads about the TPMS sensors being re-used. Some say that i must change the entire unit and others say to change the cap, as it is deformed when installed. I think i have read some saying to just re-use the valve. I am totally confused as what to do. Can you guys tell me what i should do? I don't want to have to do it twice because i have a leak or something. If i need to buy all new units, so be it, but if i only need replacement parts, thats even better, and costs less. Also, where is the best/most reasonable place to get what i need?
Thanks in advance for the help...ya'll are great...

[Andy-Montreal]

The Honda service manual says to replace the deformable crush nuts whenever removing and reinstalling the TPMS sensor. Remember, there are two types of TPMS sensors that fit either the OEM alloy wheel or another model to fit the steel wheel. If your OEM rims were steel, check with your Honda parts counter if they will work with aftermarket alloy wheels.

[psango]

I belive the sensor is the same for both wheel types. The part numbers are different because the valve stem for the two type of rims differ and is included with the TPMS sensor when purchased as a single unit.

If you check the sub assbly parts list for wheel disk alluminum or wheel disk steel. There will also be a part number for just the valve stem appropriate to the type of wheel you have or intdend to use (the aluminum stem is shorter than the stem used on steel wheels because the mounting locations are different).

Just get new valve stems for the the type of rim that you want to use and the old sensor can be re-used after you change the valve stem.

The replacement valve stem comes with the nut and mounting screw to attach the stem to the sensor and sensor and stem to the rim. I have not seen just the deformable nut on the parts list (I think the instuctions say to change the complete valve stem).

Also remember the two type of rims use differnt lug nuts. Never use the lungnut from a steel wheel on an OEM alloy rim or the other way round. Type of washer used on the two are different and the depth of the lugnut is also different there are posts here that address these things in more detail.

Good Luck!

Psango

[Benton]

I called the local Honda dealer to inquire about the deformable crush net and he, the parts guy, told me that the only way to get the nut was to order the stem unit. So, i guess thats what i will do, maybe.
I wonder what would happen if i mounted the new rims with non-TMPS air valves. I monitor everything on my vehicle regularly, every time i wash it, anyway. Would it affect anything if the sensors weren't there? Would the idiot light be on all the time? Or what??? Does anyone know, or have you tried this?
Thanks...

[swampler]

Originally Posted by Benton

Would it affect anything if the sensors weren't there? Would the idiot light be on all the time? Or what??? Does anyone know, or have you tried this?
Thanks...

The best I can tell from the service manual, the TPMS light would be on because it would not be receiving any signal from the wheels. You might look at the fuses, if the TPMS is on a fuse by itself, you pull it and possibly disable the TPMS light.

[cnj]

I just replaced my steel RT wheels w/some aftermarket alloys. The tire mounting shop resued the TPMS sensors, valve stems etc. No problems so far.

[del518]

What size wheels did you get? Do you have any pictures?

[cnj]

Originally Posted by del518

What size wheels did you get? Do you have any pictures?

See the topic " Keeping stock tires but wants new wheels" toward the end.

[mcneon]

This issue of the "deformable crush nut" is interesting. I just replaced a damaged valve stem, and I think I can shed some light on it.

The deformable part is internal to the nut. There's a little ring molded inside that contacts a shoulder on the stem, then fractures and breaks off as the nut is tightened. The ring remains inside the nut but apparently serves no purpose after installation.

The pressure sensor is held onto the valve stem by sort of a hollow carriage bolt. The square portion of the bolt drops into a square hole in the sensor, then the stem is threaded onto the bolt. The square hole keeps the bolt from rotating; the sensor is shaped so that, once installed, it can't rotate.

There's no way to torque the bolt by itself. When the stem and sensor combo is installed, I believe the torque required to fracture the ring ensures that the bolt is tight enough to keep the sensor from vibrating.

I used an 11mm nutdriver to install my new nut. I can't believe the actual torque is a very critical number, as long as everything is snug. I personally wouldn't buy a torque wrench just to install these, nor would I buy a new nut and valve assembly just because the original had been previously installed.

Just my .02
Bob in Nashville