Oil filter change WO oil change

[theLine]

I just did an oil change on my Ridge at 25K miles. I plan to start running syn at 30K. For some reason today I purged all my previous oil change experience and started to unscrew the filter befor draining the pan. Brain fart, but it got me to wondering.

There was a bit of oil coming out when I started to unscrew the filter. When I go to syn I plan to let the oil run for 10K but continue to change the filter at 5K. Has anyone tried that? I assume you can change the filter withour draining the oil first and not lose any significant amount of oil but would like some confirmation.

I assume this may havbe been discussed in a previous post but when I tried a search it came up with a butt load of unrelated posts. Anyway, I tried.

[shortspark]

You're doing the opposite of what the book calls for. According to the manual, you change filter every other oil change. Your plan is to change the filter twice during the same oil fill. I have never tried what you propose as I change oil when the oil life monitor tells me to (around every 6500 miles). I have changed the filter each of the two times I've changed oil; however, I might change the filter every other time from now on, as the manual suggests.

There will be no problem changing oil and filter sooner than the OLM says but it will be wasteful, both in resource and money. In your case, you are using more filters but saving on oil so I guess it is a wash. It should be pointed out that the OLM will never go to 10,000 miles without an oil change notice flashing, no matter how you drive, as it is calibrated for regular oil, not synthetic. Using synthetic will probably allow for this extended drain interval but I would never go 10,000 miles on plain dino oil.

If you plan on going this route you should do a UOA (used oil analysis) by a respected lab such as Blackstone Labs. This will tell you for sure if the oil you use and the oil change interval you choose is working for your particular motor.

Having said all this, it still seems to me that the easiest (and safest) way to lubricate your motor is to just follow the maintenance minder.

[dk miller]

Yes you can change your oil filter without draining the oil pan. Just be sure to wait 10 minutes or so after shutting off the motor to allow oil in the motor to drain down as much as it is going to. Then your'e gold.

[BillB]

I just did an oil change on my Ridge at 25K miles. I plan to start running syn at 30K. For some reason today I purged all my previous oil change experience and started to unscrew the filter befor draining the pan. Brain fart, but it got me to wondering.

There was a bit of oil coming out when I started to unscrew the filter. When I go to syn I plan to let the oil run for 10K but continue to change the filter at 5K. Has anyone tried that? I assume you can change the filter withour draining the oil first and not lose any significant amount of oil but would like some confirmation.

I assume this may havbe been discussed in a previous post but when I tried a search it came up with a butt load of unrelated posts. Anyway, I tried.

Absolutely nothing wrong with taking the filter off first, especially if you follow the advice of the responder abover reminding you to let the engine sit for a few minutes to drain oil down to the pan. I personally always take the filter off first because it is the least sloppy way for me to do a change on my RL. I change my oil by leaving the RL on the ground and do the work by crawling in from in front of the right tire. I put a large oil waste bin under the filter area and then unscrew and let the first oil come out and then take the filter all the way off. If the filter drops in the pan by accident and this happens because it is difficult to work in this tight place, then the filter falls into the waste bin and does not make such a splash as it would if the bin was full of the pan's oil first. I then install the new filter and clean up any drips on the frame and then move on to the pan oil removal step and then to the refill.

[rossi46]

Originally Posted by theLine

I just did an oil change on my Ridge at 25K miles. I plan to start running syn at 30K. For some reason today I purged all my previous oil change experience and started to unscrew the filter befor draining the pan. Brain fart, but it got me to wondering.

There was a bit of oil coming out when I started to unscrew the filter. When I go to syn I plan to let the oil run for 10K but continue to change the filter at 5K. Has anyone tried that? I assume you can change the filter withour draining the oil first and not lose any significant amount of oil but would like some confirmation.

I assume this may havbe been discussed in a previous post but when I tried a search it came up with a butt load of unrelated posts. Anyway, I tried.

WHY WHY WHY ????

First I don't understand why you would want to go 10k with out an oil change
Second why change the filter, it will out last the oil
During combustion there is a lot of acidic build up in the oil, not to mention sulfer, carbon, so on and so forth. Needless to say there is some nasty stuff floating around in there. Changing your oil 3000 miles is your best defense, and rather cheap insurance. just my 2 cents

[mrlizzzard]

I knew a man who changed filters every 2k and rarely changed oil.He did it for years.He said the engine loved it and had zero problems.

[BillB]

First I don't understand why you would want to go 10k with out an oil change
Second why change the filter, it will out last the oil
During combustion there is a lot of acidic build up in the oil, not to mention sulfer, carbon, so on and so forth. Needless to say there is some nasty stuff floating around in there. Changing your oil 3000 miles is your best defense, and rather cheap insurance. just my 2 cents

While the guy who didn't change his oil frequently enough was tempting fate, your statement above about doing it every 3,000 miles is tempting a different kind of fate - the ROC Oil Life Duration Police coming to visit you in this thread. Well, I am not a member of that police, and I believe there is some truth to the "cheap insurance" mentality. I myself have gone to a full synthetic in my RL to trick myself into believing that the Maintenance Minder is not lying when it only reads 50% at the 3,000 mile mark after an oil change and minder reset. I am now thorughly tricked and enjoying not having to do the oil change at 3,000 and going easily to 6000 +. My time is worth more to me then the $ spent on the oil changes, always was.

[theLine]

Originally Posted by rossi46

WHY WHY WHY ????

First I don't understand why you would want to go 10k with out an oil change
Second why change the filter, it will out last the oil
During combustion there is a lot of acidic build up in the oil, not to mention sulfer, carbon, so on and so forth. Needless to say there is some nasty stuff floating around in there. Changing your oil 3000 miles is your best defense, and rather cheap insurance. just my 2 cents

BECAUSE! BACAUSE! BECAUSE!

First. There is nothing magic about a number! Depending on your driving style and conditions and the lubricant used you may change at 2K or 10K or 20K. The only way to truly know is to have the oil analyzed. I picked 10K because, with syn it seems to be a nice safe number. I''ll have it analyzed and let you know what the results are.
Secondly. I believe the oil will outlast the filter. The oil remains clean until the filter becomes too loaded with particulates to keep the oil clean. As far as filtering is concerned, the filter fails and then the oil does.
Lastly. I refer to my first comment. You say there is "nasty stuff floating around in there". But, it is only a factor when it overcomes the lubricating properties of whatever you use. Hence, the need for analysis. It's no doubt safer to change at 3K. It would be even safer to change every 1K. Or, after every drive to the convenience store. It's a question of economics vs peace of mind. I would chose to trust experts to tell me the real world situation with my chosen lubricant and then make my decision as to whether I include margin of error or a fudge factor when I drain and fill.