What is your engine oil?

[curban0520]

Originally Posted by ericrwalker

Interesting, yeah depending on which way the filter sits and how you access it I can see that happening. I had a fram filter once that I had to reset the rubber seal on it twice but I noticed it because of the angle I was at under my car. I noticed it before I even twisted it on. I think they shouldn't move off the filter.

At least you didn't lose all your oil when you drove and had your engine seize.

This is very true a seized engine would be a major bummer. I double check the gasket on all filters that I buy, but never found one loose and able to fall out of the filter since the fram days.

[SnowBlind]

Agree with the no thank you on Fram Oil Filters. My buddy's Chevy Avalanche had engine knock on start up, he changed the oil and filter and still had it.

Went to the Chevy dealer (he goes there alot ) and they changed him out to an AC Delco filter and told him to NEVER put a Fram Filter on the vehicle again. No more engine knock. He hates it when I say should have bought a RL

[ericrwalker]

Originally Posted by SnowBlind

He hates it when I say should have bought a RL

Because he knows you are right.

[chisoxjim]

I run dino oil in the RL, & have the dealer do my oil changes,

Kind of funny that I run Mobil 1 synthetic in my 2 lawnmowers, and just did my own, first time ever, oil change on my new John Deer tractor last weekend to get the factory oil out after 8 hours of use.

[Ridgetalker]

I bought my RL in May of 2006. I have a company vehicle, so I don't put a lot of miles on it.

In June of 2007, I had 5500 miles on it and took it to the dealer for a oil and filter change. My MM was at 25%, but I didn't want to go much past one year on oil and filter. They used Honda dino oil and filter.

Today, May 2008, I have 8500 miles and my MM is at 60%. Only 3000 miles in the last year. Since it has been almost a year since the last change, I decided to do it myself. I went to Autozone, bought 5 quarts of Mobil 1 full synthetic, a Mobil 1 filter (M1-110) for a total of 48.00. I put in 4.5 quarts per my owners manual. I also replaced the drain plug which cost me .19. Fired it up to check for leaks and oil level, and all OK.

I guess I'm good for another year!!!!

[davedad]

I've been using Pennzoil Platinum synthetic oil in both the RL and the Accord, I just changed the oil in the Accord and realized that the MM oil life says to change the oil about every 4000 miles which I do. I think a regular Dino oil would be sufficient in the Accord since I do change the oil and filter every 4000mi. I will stick with synthetic in the RL because it runs about 7000 miles between oil changes. With the prices of oil nowadays, you have to save anywhere you can.

[Tcape]

Geez, I know this may be herecy based on the comments on this thread, but I've used nothing but Castrol GTX 5-20 in my Accord for 5 years, and I've used nothing but Fram filters. Primarily because they were recommended by Consumer Reports a couple of years ago. (Castrol oil was also strongly recommended.) My '03 Accord has 63,000 miles on it, and never uses a drop of oil between changes (every 3-4,000 miles). I'm just wondering.....is motor oil like auto wax/polish...we all have out own favorites, and swear they're the best money can buy?? Seems to me that if you change your oil regularly (or certainly MORE OFTEN than the MM recommends), everything works great. I've always felt that if you use ANY polish/wax on your auto, it will protect the paint. And if you ask 20 people, they'll all say the wax/polish they use is "the best out there." Is it the same with motor oil?? Just use SOMETHING PRETTY GOOD, and your engine will purr along just fine.

OK....I'm open to flaming. Fire away.

[arteegee]

Originally Posted by chisoxjim

I run dino oil in the RL, & have the dealer do my oil changes,

Kind of funny that I run Mobil 1 synthetic in my 2 lawnmowers, and just did my own, first time ever, oil change on my new John Deer tractor last weekend to get the factory oil out after 8 hours of use.

Thinking about switching my JD-Kohler to syn at 200hrs. I have a few half-quarts lying around.

[csimo]

Originally Posted by Tcape

Geez, I know this may be herecy based on the comments on this thread, but I've used nothing but Castrol GTX 5-20 in my Accord for 5 years, and I've used nothing but Fram filters. Primarily because they were recommended by Consumer Reports a couple of years ago. (Castrol oil was also strongly recommended.) My '03 Accord has 63,000 miles on it, and never uses a drop of oil between changes (every 3-4,000 miles). I'm just wondering.....is motor oil like auto wax/polish...we all have out own favorites, and swear they're the best money can buy?? Seems to me that if you change your oil regularly (or certainly MORE OFTEN than the MM recommends), everything works great. I've always felt that if you use ANY polish/wax on your auto, it will protect the paint. And if you ask 20 people, they'll all say the wax/polish they use is "the best out there." Is it the same with motor oil?? Just use SOMETHING PRETTY GOOD, and your engine will purr along just fine.

OK....I'm open to flaming. Fire away.

I'm wondering if you've got Consumer Reports confused with some other magazine? The CR oil test came up with the following conclusion: "The bottom line. In our tests, brand didn't matter much as long as the oil carried the industry's starburst symbol (see "It's not just oil," article 3 of 4). Beware of oils without the starburst; they may lack the full complement of additives needed to keep modern engines running reliably."

They didn't recommend any brand, but they did add: "One distinction: According to the laboratory tests, Mobil 1 and Pennzoil Performax synthetics flow exceptionally easily at low temperatures - a condition our taxi tests didn't simulate effectively. They also had the highest viscosity under high-temperature, high-stress conditions, when a thick oil protects the engine. Thus, these oils may be a good choice for hard driving in extreme temperatures."

As for oil filters I'm not aware that Consumer Reports has ever tested oil filters. I have a subscription and just searched their site and find nothing.

The truth is that you could use any modern API Certified oil and get good results under normal operating conditions. I personally prefer the extra protection true synthetic oil offers in the event of extreme operating conditions.

My position on oil filters is well known. Fram oil filters are junk. Take one apart and you will agree... guaranteed. There are much better filters at or near the same price as a Fram.

It's also my belief that the oil filter you use is just as important as the oil you choose. A good oil cannot overcome the shortcomings of a bad filter.

The reality is that you could probably use the cheapest oil and filter on the market and get good results with a modern engine... but I believe that if you expect excellent results you need to use excellent products.

[shovelhd]

Originally Posted by arteegee

Thinking about switching my JD-Kohler to syn at 200hrs. I have a few half-quarts lying around.

Interesting. I have a JD-Kawasaki liquid cooled that I run straight 30W in. Maybe I should switch to 10W30 syn instead.

BTW it is a 1995 345 model with ~600 hours and runs great.