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    1. · Registered
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      164 Posts
      Puck it

      When using those welded bracket lift points front and rear (yes, they work well), don't make the mistake I made. My floor jack has a rubber lift pad, and the first lift cut right through the rubber (D'oh!). Use a puck or something similar on your jack pad (puck also works on a plain steel jack pad).
      :surprise:

      Use a slotted puck or metal slotted adapter with a flat surface jack:
       
    2. · Registered
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      195 Posts
      When I get a chance I am going to manufacture four fiberglass lifting blocks which are solid and fit around the tab.
      Amazon saved you the hassle, and only for $24 (for four). I have some and they work great:

       
    3. · Registered
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      3,689 Posts
      Amazon saved you the hassle, and only for $24 (for four). I have some and they work great:

      I purchased something like those a few years ago and the pinch welds cut through them like butter after a handful or lifts. I tried 2X4 scraps and they crack and split, they're just too thick. What I've had some luck with it plywood scraps.

      For those floor jacks with a round saddle probably best to cut out some cores and seat them on the jack saddle. I have the Harbor Freight jacks which are an odd shape but a metal electrical box cover accompanied by a piece of plywood scrap works well. Harbor Freight sometimes has part numbers for the rubber protectors on the jack saddle.
       

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