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ACDelco ARM602-4 1/2” (14.8 to 147.6 ft-lbs.) Heavy Duty Digital Torque Adapter with Buzzer and LED Flash Notification – ISO 6789 Standards with Certificate of Calibration

ACDelco ARM602-4 1/2” (14.8 to 147.6 ft-lbs.) Heavy Duty Digital Torque Adapter with Buzzer and LED Flash Notification – ISO 6789 Standards with Certificate of Calibration

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$70 USD on Amazon
EASY TO USE – Our lightweight, heavy duty, and professional (14.8 to 147.6 ft-lbs.) digital torque adapter is engineered with high-quality materials that displays real-time torque values in ft-lbs. and Nm. Excellent tool for tiny, tight, and narrow working environments, but also reliable torque values that is ideal for professionals, automotive, motor bikes, and many other industrial uses. SUPERIOR QUALITY – ACDelco is long known for its stellar quality and this tool is no different. It offers speed, accuracy, and an easy to read LCD screen that beeps when a desired torque value is achieved. Our digital torque adapter is also highly efficient, with longer lifespan and industrial grade material engineered to last years or even decades to come with proper uses. VERSATILE – Converts any ratchet wrench into a precision adjustment tool with stunningly accurate calibration for existing digital and analog torque wrenches. Lightweight hard plastic housing with ergonomic hand-sized design that provides convenience for operating, storage, and traveling. VALUE KIT – Our kit comes with a digital torque adapter, a manual of instructions and guidance, and a mini hard-shell case that protects and secures the tool once it is done using. This tool is powered by 2-coin batteries (CR2032 – included). 100% SATISFACTION GUARANTEED – For over 35 years we have been manufacturing and providing the best products and services to our customers at the lowest prices possible. We are confident that you will absolutely love our digital torque adapter that we will stand behind our product with a replacement or your money back! Every purchase comes with a manufacturer’s limited 1-year warranty, so you can buy with confidence!

Forum Discussions about this Product

  1. B

    Removing spark plug connectors

    8
    3K
     by bluemaverick789
    1. B

      · Registered
      Joined
      ·
      25 Posts
      #8 ·
      I changed the plugs on my 2017 RTL-E (111,000 miles) a few days ago and wanted to share a couple of observations on the process.
      • First, thanks to everything I have read here, the job wasn’t nearly as bad as I had feared. That said, I am happy that I will likely never have to do it again.
      • You definitely need at least two small extensions. Unfortunately for me, my 3/8 plug socket has a swivel extension on it (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUBQFFD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1), so it is just a bit longer than most. That would be fine, but the standard recommendation of two 3” extensions was too long with my socket. I was able to make it work using other extensions and adaptors, but if I ever did have to change them again, I will either get a shorter socket or try to find a 1 ½” extension.
      • As others have noted, the hardest part for me was getting the coil connectors off. I followed @silkiechicken’s advice (Changed the spark plugs and it wasn't so bad! ) but still couldn’t get them off. Fortunately, one of the rubber boots pulled away from the connector and I could see exactly how they worked. A photo is below. For me, rather than pushing on the “US” in “PUSH”, I found it best to feel for the end of the release (noted with the arrow) and push there. As @silkiechicken noted, it is also important to push down on the connector while pushing the release. Even the one with the boot removed was difficult until I managed to push down and release at the same time.

      • The second hardest part for me was removing the fan shroud. This should have been a breeze, but the screws were seized and made of a very soft metal that easily deformed. The first one came out but the second head stripped without budging. I hope I never need to get that shroud out, because it is nearly impossible to get any kind of vice grip or striped screw remover on it. Fortunately…
      • It isn’t necessary to remove the shroud. The fan has enough play that you can gently push it towards the front of the car and remove and refit the boot. The above step was completely unnecessary.
      • Torquing the rear plugs (at least the two on the left side) is nearly impossible without a small torque wrench, something I don’t have. Fortunately, I do have an electronic torque calibrator (https://smile.amazon.com/ACDelco-AR...50068568&sprefix=torque+wrench,aps,76&sr=8-11) on loan from a friend and I was able to use this in place of one of the extensions. It was still a PITA and I’d try to find a small torque wrench if I ever have to do it again.
      • One last thing, which is probably unnecessary to state, but: do not plan on doing this with a hot or even warm engine! Plan on spending quite a bit of time laying across the engine.
      Like I said, all things considered, this wasn’t nearly as bad as I had feared. I hope to never do it again, but a little prep (and a few purchases) will improve things dramatically. And, given what my dealer wanted for this job (I don’t remember the exact amount, but it was ridiculous), the job would still be well worth the effort even after buying those tools.
       
    2. B

      · Registered
      Joined
      ·
      44 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #9 ·
      Well, I went outside and followed your instructions and was able to get the front bank of these off without issue. Many thanks!

      backintheusa said:
      I changed the plugs on my 2017 RTL-E (111,000 miles) a few days ago and wanted to share a couple of observations on the process.
      • First, thanks to everything I have read here, the job wasn’t nearly as bad as I had feared. That said, I am happy that I will likely never have to do it again.
      • You definitely need at least two small extensions. Unfortunately for me, my 3/8 plug socket has a swivel extension on it (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUBQFFD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1), so it is just a bit longer than most. That would be fine, but the standard recommendation of two 3” extensions was too long with my socket. I was able to make it work using other extensions and adaptors, but if I ever did have to change them again, I will either get a shorter socket or try to find a 1 ½” extension.
      • As others have noted, the hardest part for me was getting the coil connectors off. I followed @silkiechicken’s advice (Changed the spark plugs and it wasn't so bad! ) but still couldn’t get them off. Fortunately, one of the rubber boots pulled away from the connector and I could see exactly how they worked. A photo is below. For me, rather than pushing on the “US” in “PUSH”, I found it best to feel for the end of the release (noted with the arrow) and push there. As @silkiechicken noted, it is also important to push down on the connector while pushing the release. Even the one with the boot removed was difficult until I managed to push down and release at the same time. View attachment 425208
      • The second hardest part for me was removing the fan shroud. This should have been a breeze, but the screws were seized and made of a very soft metal that easily deformed. The first one came out but the second head stripped without budging. I hope I never need to get that shroud out, because it is nearly impossible to get any kind of vice grip or striped screw remover on it. Fortunately…
      • It isn’t necessary to remove the shroud. The fan has enough play that you can gently push it towards the front of the car and remove and refit the boot. The above step was completely unnecessary.
      • Torquing the rear plugs (at least the two on the left side) is nearly impossible without a small torque wrench, something I don’t have. Fortunately, I do have an electronic torque calibrator (https://smile.amazon.com/ACDelco-ARM602-4-Digital-Adapter-4-147-6/dp/B004VYURT0/ref=sr_1_11?crid=33QSIEE62RGW9&keywords=torque+wrench+calibrator&qid=1650068568&sprefix=torque+wrench,aps,76&sr=8-11) on loan from a friend and I was able to use this in place of one of the extensions. It was still a PITA and I’d try to find a small torque wrench if I ever have to do it again.
      • One last thing, which is probably unnecessary to state, but: do not plan on doing this with a hot or even warm engine! Plan on spending quite a bit of time laying across the engine.
      Like I said, all things considered, this wasn’t nearly as bad as I had feared. I hope to never do it again, but a little prep (and a few purchases) will improve things dramatically. And, given what my dealer wanted for this job (I don’t remember the exact amount, but it was ridiculous), the job would still be well worth the effort even after buying those tools.
      Click to expand...
      backintheusa said:
      I changed the plugs on my 2017 RTL-E (111,000 miles) a few days ago and wanted to share a couple of observations on the process.
      • First, thanks to everything I have read here, the job wasn’t nearly as bad as I had feared. That said, I am happy that I will likely never have to do it again.
      • You definitely need at least two small extensions. Unfortunately for me, my 3/8 plug socket has a swivel extension on it (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUBQFFD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1), so it is just a bit longer than most. That would be fine, but the standard recommendation of two 3” extensions was too long with my socket. I was able to make it work using other extensions and adaptors, but if I ever did have to change them again, I will either get a shorter socket or try to find a 1 ½” extension.
      • As others have noted, the hardest part for me was getting the coil connectors off. I followed @silkiechicken’s advice (Changed the spark plugs and it wasn't so bad! ) but still couldn’t get them off. Fortunately, one of the rubber boots pulled away from the connector and I could see exactly how they worked. A photo is below. For me, rather than pushing on the “US” in “PUSH”, I found it best to feel for the end of the release (noted with the arrow) and push there. As @silkiechicken noted, it is also important to push down on the connector while pushing the release. Even the one with the boot removed was difficult until I managed to push down and release at the same time. View attachment 425208
      • The second hardest part for me was removing the fan shroud. This should have been a breeze, but the screws were seized and made of a very soft metal that easily deformed. The first one came out but the second head stripped without budging. I hope I never need to get that shroud out, because it is nearly impossible to get any kind of vice grip or striped screw remover on it. Fortunately…
      • It isn’t necessary to remove the shroud. The fan has enough play that you can gently push it towards the front of the car and remove and refit the boot. The above step was completely unnecessary.
      • Torquing the rear plugs (at least the two on the left side) is nearly impossible without a small torque wrench, something I don’t have. Fortunately, I do have an electronic torque calibrator (https://smile.amazon.com/ACDelco-ARM602-4-Digital-Adapter-4-147-6/dp/B004VYURT0/ref=sr_1_11?crid=33QSIEE62RGW9&keywords=torque+wrench+calibrator&qid=1650068568&sprefix=torque+wrench,aps,76&sr=8-11) on loan from a friend and I was able to use this in place of one of the extensions. It was still a PITA and I’d try to find a small torque wrench if I ever have to do it again.
      • One last thing, which is probably unnecessary to state, but: do not plan on doing this with a hot or even warm engine! Plan on spending quite a bit of time laying across the engine.
      Like I said, all things considered, this wasn’t nearly as bad as I had feared. I hope to never do it again, but a little prep (and a few purchases) will improve things dramatically. And, given what my dealer wanted for this job (I don’t remember the exact amount, but it was ridiculous), the job would still be well worth the effort even after buying those tools.
      Click to expand...
       

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