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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello! I just bought my first Ridgeline. It’s an 07 RTL with 149k miles. This is my first paid off car so I really want to baby it and get 300-400k miles out of it. It was Arizona owned it’s entire life and doesn’t have a single spot of rust so I think it would be worth it to invest some money into. What are some common things that start to fail at high mileage like this? My mechanic says everything looks great but I’m not seeing anything on the Carfax about the transmission fluid being changed, ever. The previous owner took it to a local shop so I’m assuming that’s why there’s nothing listed. I replaced the motor and transmission mounts and did some cosmetic work already. After reading some posts on here I’m also planning on replacing the radiator soon as well... this is the highest mileage car I’ve ever owned by a significant amount haha. I love the truck so far though! I’m kicking myself for not looking at the Ridgelines sooner!
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2009 Ridgeline RTL (with nav) in Bali Blue Pearl
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Nice looking Ridgeline. Welcome to the ROC Rarvizu.

If not done at around 100,000 miles or so, you should do the following:
  • Replace the radiator to avoid SMOD
    • This should probably be done at the ten-year mark
  • Replace timing belt and tensioner
  • Replace water pump
  • Replace serpentine belt
  • Adjust valves
  • Replace spark plugs
  • Replace brake fluid and any other fluids you don't know the status of
    • Brake fluid should probably be changed every 3-5 years depending on where you live
    • When changing the transmission fluid, use the "drain-and-fill" method as Honda defines it (do not flush)
      • Transmission fluid should be changed when it becomes dark
Examining your exterior photos, it looks like your Ridgeline has the OEM roof rack and OEM running boards (very cool). There appears to be an aftermarket coating on the bed, which is a good thing for the SMC bed scratches very easily. Do you know what the bed coating is, I may want to use it myself? The bed tie-downs have been painted red (they come black); I like the way they look. Lastly, it looks like the taillight covers were swapped for 2012-2014 model year versions (also cool).
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The standard advice is to assume all maintenance has been neglected and do it all.

Coolant
Transmission fluid (I'd do a 4x drain and fill to get out most of the current fluid)
Brake fluid
Rear differential fluid
Transfer case fluid

Replace radiator
Replace timing belt, water pump, and tensioner (should have already been replaced at least once for normal driving or twice if it was used to tow regularly)
Drive belt
Spark plugs

Valve adjustment isn't a bad idea
Lubricate caliper pins isn't a bad idea

Reset the Maintenance Minder then start following it from now on.

EDIT: @McChizzle beat me to it by a few seconds. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Nice looking Ridgeline. Welcome to the ROC Rarvizu.

If not done at around 100,000 miles or so, you should do the following:
  • Replace the radiator to avoid SMOD
    • This should probably be done at the ten-year mark
  • Replace timing belt and tensioner
  • Replace water pump
  • Replace serpentine belt
  • Adjust valves
  • Replace spark plugs
  • Replace brake fluid and any other fluids you don't know the status of
    • Brake fluid should probably be changed every 3-5 years depending on where you live
    • When changing the transmission fluid, use the "drain-and-fill" method as Honda defines it (do not flush)
      • Transmission fluid should be changed when it becomes dark
Examining your exterior photos, it looks like your Ridgeline has the OEM roof rack and OEM running boards (very cool). There appears to be an aftermarket coating on the bed, which is a good thing for the SMC bed scratches very easily. Do you know what the bed coating is, I may want to use it myself? The bed tie-downs have been painted red (they come black); I like the way they look. Lastly, it looks like the taillight covers were swapped for 2012-2014 model year versions (also cool).
View attachment 402958
You’re right! I thought the tail lights looked different than some other 06-07’s I looked at but I couldn’t figure out why. I actually painted the bedliner and hooks! The bed was pretty worn but still perfectly functional I just couldn’t stand looking at all of the scratches. I removed all of the bed panels and even the bottom of the bed so I could clean and paint them out of the truck. Had to use a forklift to lift the bottom piece out because it was too heavy. I just used Rustoleum bedliner from Home Depot. I initially used the spray can version but it was too smooth and didn’t hide the scratches so I switched to the gallon and hand painted it. I also replaced all of the plastic trim on the edges of the bed and tailgate.
I’m making a list of parts to order now, I’m just going to overhaul everything. The parts are so cheap for this truck I think I’ll start fresh. Thanks so much!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The standard advice is to assume all maintenance has been neglected and do it all.

Coolant
Transmission fluid (I'd do a 4x drain and fill to get out most of the current fluid)
Brake fluid
Rear differential fluid
Transfer case fluid

Replace radiator
Replace timing belt, water pump, and tensioner (should have already been replaced at least once for normal driving or twice if it was used to tow regularly)
Drive belt
Spark plugs

Valve adjustment isn't a bad idea
Lubricate caliper pins isn't a bad idea

Reset the Maintenance Minder then start following it from now on.

EDIT: @McChizzle beat me to it by a few seconds. :)
Thank you! I didn’t even think of these. Will do!
 

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2010 RT - Bali Blue
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If you do not plan to use the bed that often, or want to spend less time digging out dust and debris out of the bed, getting a low end bed cover cover like a TonoaPro would keep things clean on the outside.

Also check the following suspension components by jacking up the vehicle, in the fashion where the tires are off the ground.
  • steering rod ends: check for cracks and tears
  • lower control arm: ensure the bushings are not cracked
  • stabilizer bar bushings: check for dry rot
  • End links: check for play
  • struts: check for clunks and squeaks. Esp over washboard type highway shoulder grooves.
It is also worth to check your brakes
  • fluid color and life using an electronic fluid tester
  • calipers for sticking and worn caliper piston boots. Also check to ensure you do not have rust on your pistons
  • check all the brake hoses, and if needed, change them with regular replacement hoses.
  • Typically the brake booster and master cylinders are just fine.
Since you have already changed the motor and transmission mounts, you are solid. However, check the propeller shaft connection to the rear differential. Typically the joint by the rear diff goes bad causing vibrations and nasty sounds.
Get down and check how the hangers/brackets for the running boards are. It would be wise to wash the anchor points and giving it a gentle coat of paint on under-body coating. These brackets rust real fast, similar to the tow harness bracket, and is a pain to get off.

Once you address all these, and have a good running engine, you should be good to see 300K+.

BTW, nice looking truck. It looks very clean; inside and out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you do not plan to use the bed that often, or want to spend less time digging out dust and debris out of the bed, getting a low end bed cover cover like a TonoaPro would keep things clean on the outside.

Also check the following suspension components by jacking up the vehicle, in the fashion where the tires are off the ground.
  • steering rod ends: check for cracks and tears
  • lower control arm: ensure the bushings are not cracked
  • stabilizer bar bushings: check for dry rot
  • End links: check for play
  • struts: check for clunks and squeaks. Esp over washboard type highway shoulder grooves.
It is also worth to check your brakes
  • fluid color and life using an electronic fluid tester
  • calipers for sticking and worn caliper piston boots. Also check to ensure you do not have rust on your pistons
  • check all the brake hoses, and if needed, change them with regular replacement hoses.
  • Typically the brake booster and master cylinders are just fine.
Since you have already changed the motor and transmission mounts, you are solid. However, check the propeller shaft connection to the rear differential. Typically the joint by the rear diff goes bad causing vibrations and nasty sounds.
Get down and check how the hangers/brackets for the running boards are. It would be wise to wash the anchor points and giving it a gentle coat of paint on under-body coating. These brackets rust real fast, similar to the tow harness bracket, and is a pain to get off.

Once you address all these, and have a good running engine, you should be good to see 300K+.

BTW, nice looking truck. It looks very clean; inside and out.
thanks! After timing belt, radiator, etc my next focus was going to be suspension and wheels for sure. it drives straight and smooth with no noises or vibrations. I just finished a lease on a Lincoln MKC so I’m hyper aware of how this thing drives and I think it feels great. I test drove a 2013 with 23k miles and then this one back to back and they drove exactly the same. I wouldn’t have been able to tell them apart if I was blindfolded. I’m definitely going to check everything out though. When it’s time for new tires I’m going to buy the black sport wheels from the 13-14 Ridgeline and replace anything else that’s worn.
 

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Very nice and congrats. I tend to go through a lot of different cars, but my ridgeline will always be there haha. Also something to consider, I install a Magnafine transmission filter on all my honda's, 3/8" size. The J35 transmissions have an internal filter that can only be service by disassembling the transmission. An external filter would definitely help. I currently have 235K miles on my ridgeline, transmission still shifts like butter.
 

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2010 RT - Bali Blue
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I currently have 235K miles on my ridgeline, transmission still shifts like butter.
Same here, Have almost 238K on mine and with regular driveline fluid changes, the transmission still holds strong even after all those years of towing. This is a stout unit.
 

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Same here, Have almost 238K on mine and with regular driveline fluid changes, the transmission still holds strong even after all those years of towing. This is a stout unit.
I have 271K plus miles on my ridge, worked it hard, shifts fine ans still holds on inclindes. But, I do drain and refill tranny every 25K miles.
 
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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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Very clean Steel blue 2007 RTL.

One other thing not mentioned... unless I overlooked it... change out the PCV valve (it's normally very easy to do) and change out the power steering fluid. You'll take care of the coolant when you change out the radiator and thermostat.

I think everyone else has covered the routine maintenance items pretty well. Oh yeah, don't neglect the cabin air filter behind the glove box too. That's also easy to change. Engine air filter too if that wasn't mentioned.

Good luck and ask away here if any questions.
 

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I would highly recommend that in addition to all of the maintenance tips above, that you start running Hyperlube with all oil changes, starting next oil change. It will increase the life of your engine big time. I learned this from Leon Caplin, “The Motor Man” years back, when he had his radio show on Sundays. You can buy it at most auto parts stores, or even at Wal-Mart.
 

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I would highly recommend that in addition to all of the maintenance tips above, that you start running Hyperlube with all oil changes, starting next oil change. It will increase the life of your engine big time. I learned this from Leon Caplin, “The Motor Man” years back, when he had his radio show on Sundays. You can buy it at most auto parts stores, or even at Wal-Mart.
That advice is in direct conflict with the Owner's Manual.

"Engine Oil Additives
Your vehicle does not require any oil additives. Additives may adversely affect the engine or transmission performance and durability."

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2010 RT - Bali Blue
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I agree with @zroger73 . No additives are needed, nor be used regularly to extend the life of the engine. Just regular maintenance detailed in the owner's manual and you are good to go.
There are other preventive measures that are detailed here on ROC and those are worth addressing.
 

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Hello! I just bought my first Ridgeline. It’s an 07 RTL with 149k miles. This is my first paid off car so I really want to baby it and get 300-400k miles out of it. It was Arizona owned it’s entire life and doesn’t have a single spot of rust so I think it would be worth it to invest some money into. What are some common things that start to fail at high mileage like this? My mechanic says everything looks great but I’m not seeing anything on the Carfax about the transmission fluid being changed, ever. The previous owner took it to a local shop so I’m assuming that’s why there’s nothing listed. I replaced the motor and transmission mounts and did some cosmetic work already. After reading some posts on here I’m also planning on replacing the radiator soon as well... this is the highest mileage car I’ve ever owned by a significant amount haha. I love the truck so far though! I’m kicking myself for not looking at the Ridgelines sooner!
View attachment 402939
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Looks great for an 07. It really says a lot that there’s so many old high mileage rid lines out there and so many in good condition.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Looks great for an 07. It really says a lot that there’s so many old high mileage rid lines out there and so many in good condition.
it really does! People really take care of these trucks and they hold up well. I got lucky with this one it was in better shape cosmetically than a 40k mike 2013 I looked at. This one was garage kept, desert owned and has never been repainted.
 

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Wish my 2008 looked that good! Welcome to the ROC and you've made a good choice. Mine has 205k on the odometer and no major issues yet. I replace my radiator at around 120k to avoid the SMOD. Maintenance on these are a breeze. I didn't see it mentioned but check the disc brake rotors for wear. If the previous owner kept it as nice as you say then the OEM discs should be good, I still have OEMs on my Ridge. While you are on the brake check theme check the slider pins on the calipers, make sure they are free and lubricated. Happy motoring and please be a regular on the ROC and keep us posted.
 

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About additives. Some people use them and like them some don't and hate them. The only one I've ever used is Seafoam in every 3rd or 4th tank of fuel. Seems to keep the injectors and plugs clean, never had any issues with them. Not a product endorsement just my experience.
 
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