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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
260k miles i am thinking could be time for new bushings and A arms
or tie rod ends. Had tires checked to see if out of balance a year ago
anyway to pinpoint this without sinking a ton of money into stuff i dont need??
 

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Put the front of the truck on a pair of jackstands (don't use the jack that comes with the truck! It's not strong enough!)

Grab a wheel at the 3 & 9 o'clock position, and rock it back and forth. If you get movement or hear/feel a clicking sound, that indicates a steering linkage problem.

Grab a wheel at the 12 & 6 o'clock position, and rock it back and forth. If you get movement or hear/feel a clicking sound, that indicates a ball joint or other suspension problem.

Spin the wheel. If you hear a gritty sound, that indicates a wheel bearing problem.

At 206k miles, I wouldn't be surprised if you had one or more of these issues - stuff wears out over time. ;) If you have any of these problems, don't delay in getting it fixed. If a ball joint pops out, you'll be facing several thousand dollars in body damage, as well as the suspension repairs.

Chip H.
 

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.... depending on how 'bad' a ball joint is, you may very well not be able to detect it using your own strength alone...... you might need to place a long, strong lever under the wheel & lift to see if you get play in the ball joint.... I believe you're fighting the springs as well in this effort IIRC. But if it's bad, you'll definitely see & feel movement if it's bad (at the joint it shows even more, if you've got a helper).


I do agree with Chiph about wear at this point ..... those miles might indicate a good time to just go through & replace all that's not too expensive in the suspension system. There are lots of 'soft' components that could use a refresh at this point... and if you DIY, you might as well get to them while you're down there..... especially if you plan on keeping the truck a while. If the shocks (struts) have never been replaced, I'd toss them into the deal (but other parts are likely more critically worn).

It will likely feel like a new vehicle, compared to how it feels now.

Have Fun!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks for all the advice. I can diy most of the bushing struts etc.....

how hard to replace ball joints or wheel bearings. Where is the best place to buy all this stuff? Prefer OEM honda.
gary

my goal is to get 400k out of this truck only 140 to go:wink:
 

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I have 266k on my truck...did you rotate tires recently? On my truck there is one configuration of tires that my truck doesn't like. Front end shakes at about 75. I just rotated tires and realized that is the setup I'm running right now. Nothing else changed, so I'm going to rotate tires again and get away from this setup. It has happened in the past and switching up the placement if tires worked for me. You can do it at home and it's free so you're only out a little time.
 

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thanks for all the advice. I can diy most of the bushing struts etc.....

how hard to replace ball joints or wheel bearings. Where is the best place to buy all this stuff? Prefer OEM honda.
gary

my goal is to get 400k out of this truck only 140 to go:wink:
I think there's one or two Honda dealers supporting the ROC. If not, try Majestic Honda.

So far as a how-to, Youtube is your friend. Try Eric The Car Guy, he works on a lot of Hondas.

Chip H.
 

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thanks for all the advice. I can diy most of the bushing struts etc.....

how hard to replace ball joints or wheel bearings. Where is the best place to buy all this stuff? Prefer OEM honda.
gary

my goal is to get 400k out of this truck only 140 to go:wink:
I went with moog ones from rockauto.com. It was what I could afford. I go with OEM on more important things. But good aftermarket is just as good. Kind of a pain to do the control arms..you need to jack the suspension up to where the control arm is as flat as it will go.If you dont have a lift this will be easy. Then strap the strut to the truck to keep it from moving outwards when you undo the lower ball joint. This is the easiest way beside removing the whole strut and knuckle assembly.

No comment on wheel bearings as I have not done that. I know they need to be pressed in and out though
 
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