It will hit 5% before it hits 0% then it starts indicating the number of miles past due. It's not like the oil instantly fails the moment the MM indicates 0% remaining. Think of the expiration date on a carton of milk - it's usually good for days to a week or more past that date. My OCD requires me to change the oil (and that gallon of milk) the moment the MM hits 15% and the first notifications appear, but my knowledges knows this is a bit of a waste. Enjoy your trip and don't worry about your oil. Make sure the oil level is okay and you'll be fine.
10% Mileage Left on Oil
My 2014 oil change indicator hit 10% about 200 miles ago. I have always used Honda dealers for changes and there isn't one near here. We have a 350 mile trip to make today and will then be near a dealer. I'm thinking that I should be safe for this trip before it hits 0%. 10% should equal at least 600-700 miles, I think. I'm not worried about damaging anything, but would prefer just for the record that I stay within Honda's limits in case I ever have an engine problem under warranty. We are traveling with gear and a dog and stopping at a Honda dealer en route would not be convenient. Does the indicator go to 5% before it hits 0?
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If this is your first oil change, it would be good to have it changed at your first convenience, but don't worry. These are robust trucks. I'm at 214,000 miles and have let two or three oil changes go into the negative percents. Once in the negative percents, the RL will chime at you at intervals to remind you. Probably anything that could go wrong with your engine will not be blamed on letting the oil change go a little past 0%.
No worries. Do it when it is convenient for you, but as close to the MM as possible.
And for what it is worth, the dealer isn't typically going to do any better of a job than any other oil change venue. Most dealers use the same type of personnel and products as the chain oil change places use. Just make sure they use 0W-20 and a change the filter. Don't let them pump the oil from a barrel, it may not be 0W-20. It will likely be 5W-20 conventional.
And for what it is worth, the dealer isn't typically going to do any better of a job than any other oil change venue. Most dealers use the same type of personnel and products as the chain oil change places use. Just make sure they use 0W-20 and a change the filter. Don't let them pump the oil from a barrel, it may not be 0W-20. It will likely be 5W-20 conventional.
I'm at 37,000 miles in 20 months since a new vehicle purchase. This will be my 4th oil change. I decided that I would use Honda dealers and get them to stamp my service book, etc. Having all of the service show up on Carfax, Autocheck, etc. I think will be a good thing in case I ever sell or trade. I stopped at a Fast Lube yesterday and they wanted $104 for a synthetic oil and filter change. I got a song and dance story about how expensive 0W20 synthetic is. What a joke! I have had many bad experiences at such joints over the course of lots of vehicles and many years.
I generally stay away from the Monkey Lube places. Just too many bad experiences, both by myself and my friends.
The dealers aren't always perfect, but your chances of something going wrong are much lower, it seems.
Chip H.
The dealers aren't always perfect, but your chances of something going wrong are much lower, it seems.
Chip H.
Agreed. The employees doing oil changes at dealerships have about the same skill level and receive the same low pay as "quick lube" employees. About the only thing they have in their favor is more consistency in the models they see which can slightly increase the chances of a proper job using the proper oil. The trained and certified employees making twice as much money aren't changing oil - they're diagnosing electrical problems and replacing engine blocks. Don't let the fact that they all wear the same uniforms confuse you.No worries. Do it when it is convenient for you, but as close to the MM as possible.
And for what it is worth, the dealer isn't typically going to do any better of a job than any other oil change venue. Most dealers use the same type of personnel and products as the chain oil change places use. Just make sure they use 0W-20 and a change the filter. Don't let them pump the oil from a barrel, it may not be 0W-20. It will likely be 5W-20 conventional.
Except the one's that are changing oil have a desire to move up within the dealership. Skippy lube places are just there for the next paycheck. As for going past I've been every bit of 500 miles over, on an '06, the "Wrench" symbol stays lit, every time you start the vehicle, after your past 0% and it starts counting "Miles". I've also tested both full synthetic and semi synthetic and there is plenty of life left even 500 over, and believe it or not the Honda "Earth Dreams" initiative states that the Honda Oil filter only needs to be changed every other change, although I've never read of anyone who has there dealer change the OIL, not automatically change the filter, FWIW.
This method goes dates back long before "Earth Dreams" ever existed and is not specific to Honda. The maintenance section in my grandmother's 1976 Chevrolet Monte Carlo owner's manual said the same thing.[...] and believe it or not the Honda "Earth Dreams" initiative states that the Honda Oil filter only needs to be changed every other change [...]
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=115154
Keep in mind many dealers as well as independents will allow you to bring in your own oil and filter. That will save you bucks as well as ensuring you use the best oil.
They should reduce their estimate accordingly. My local dealer was down to $10-15 labor when I brought in my own stuff.
The 'Jiffys' of the world might let you do that too, but I have heard more cases of screwed up oil changes and coolant flushes from those going the quickie route.
If you can, learn to DIY.
They should reduce their estimate accordingly. My local dealer was down to $10-15 labor when I brought in my own stuff.
The 'Jiffys' of the world might let you do that too, but I have heard more cases of screwed up oil changes and coolant flushes from those going the quickie route.
If you can, learn to DIY.
At least the oil change joints will let you watch. Most dealerships don't let customers into the shop. I usually manage to watch from a distance at door or window, although I have been thrown out of a couple of dealer shops over the years (other vehicles I have owned).
Anyway, I put another 400 miles on the Ridgeline yesterday. Now the wrench stays lit and I'm down to 5%. I have an appointment with dealer Monday, so all is well.
We continue to pile up trouble-free miles on the 2014 Ridgeline. I expect it to hit 40,000 miles by year's end.
Anyway, I put another 400 miles on the Ridgeline yesterday. Now the wrench stays lit and I'm down to 5%. I have an appointment with dealer Monday, so all is well.
We continue to pile up trouble-free miles on the 2014 Ridgeline. I expect it to hit 40,000 miles by year's end.
At least with a reputable mechanic I can watch too, and know it will be done right if I happen to go for a bathroom break.At least the oil change joints will let you watch. Most dealerships don't let customers into the shop. I usually manage to watch from a distance at door or window, although I have been thrown out of a couple of dealer shops over the years (other vehicles I have owned).
Anyway, I put another 400 miles on the Ridgeline yesterday. Now the wrench stays lit and I'm down to 5%. I have an appointment with dealer Monday, so all is well.
We continue to pile up trouble-free miles on the 2014 Ridgeline. I expect it to hit 40,000 miles by year's end.
Frankly, have had little issue with our local dealer but found DIY or a reputable indie shop the least risk, and typically cheaper if I need more done.
I've heard too many horror stories for short cut shops. You can't see a pinched oil filter gasket (well, maybe you can) or if the worker happens to forget to release air in a coolant system while filling. Plus, the experience of the one working on your car is worth a lot. Many do not know a gorilla crank on a Honda oil drain plug is a one step from disaster. I could go on, but running out of ink.
Are you certain that you dealer is even using 0W20?
Or can you be sure he is using your oil that you brought so he would use the right one.Are you certain that you dealer is even using 0W20?
Related story from when I had my VW. Dropped it off for an oil change with a six-pack of Mobil-1 in the passenger floorboard, and instructions to use it.Or can you be sure he is using your oil that you brought so he would use the right one.
Got the car back with the oil still there. Had to send it back again to be redone.
That dealer was such a disaster. Bad sales department. Bad service department. And a parts department that once said to me: "Yeah, but we'd have to order it."
Chip H.
You can buy a BARREL of base stock crude oil for $45 right now. If you go into any Walmart, you can walk out with a 5qt. jug of 0w-20 synthetic for anywhere from $21 to $30. Mobil 1 and Pennzoil are right at $25-26 each. A decent filter is $4-5, so you're at $30 in parts/fluid. Keep in mind that these oil change places get fluids and filter at discounted rates, so they're paying less than $30 for all of that. With the equipment they have, one "mechanic" can change the oil and filter in about 15 minutes (conservatively). So, you're being charged $74 extra dollars for labor. Unless that guy is making $300 per hour, I think you're getting ripped off.I'm at 37,000 miles in 20 months since a new vehicle purchase. This will be my 4th oil change. I decided that I would use Honda dealers and get them to stamp my service book, etc. Having all of the service show up on Carfax, Autocheck, etc. I think will be a good thing in case I ever sell or trade. I stopped at a Fast Lube yesterday and they wanted $104 for a synthetic oil and filter change. I got a song and dance story about how expensive 0W20 synthetic is. What a joke! I have had many bad experiences at such joints over the course of lots of vehicles and many years.
This is one of the MANY reasons I change my own fluids. It's outrageously easy on these trucks and only requires simply hand tools. It takes me more time to get set up, clean up and drink a beer than it does to do the actual change.
Fumoto valve is one of the best investements I have made for my truck. If getting the filter off wasn't such a slippery mess I would say I almost enjoy changing my oil. Gallon bag works pretty well, but I still always seem to spill a little.
I always just change mine at my convenience between 10% and 0.
I always just change mine at my convenience between 10% and 0.
Bulk oil is cheap. We use Mobil 1 Delvac 1300 conventional 15W40 for our buses. Our price is $4.19 a quart. It list in stores for about $10. We buy it at 200 gallons a shot.You can buy a BARREL of base stock crude oil for $45 right now. If you go into any Walmart, you can walk out with a 5qt. jug of 0w-20 synthetic for anywhere from $21 to $30. Mobil 1 and Pennzoil are right at $25-26 each. A decent filter is $4-5, so you're at $30 in parts/fluid. Keep in mind that these oil change places get fluids and filter at discounted rates, so they're paying less than $30 for all of that. With the equipment they have, one "mechanic" can change the oil and filter in about 15 minutes (conservatively). So, you're being charged $74 extra dollars for labor. Unless that guy is making $300 per hour, I think you're getting ripped off.
This is one of the MANY reasons I change my own fluids. It's outrageously easy on these trucks and only requires simply hand tools. It takes me more time to get set up, clean up and drink a beer than it does to do the actual change.
I will also recommend the Fumoto valve. It is like opening and closing a tap for draining the oil. The oil filter is very accessable, but you need to take some precautions to avoid oil spill.Fumoto valve is one of the best investements I have made for my truck. If getting the filter off wasn't such a slippery mess I would say I almost enjoy changing my oil. Gallon bag works pretty well, but I still always seem to spill a little.
I always just change mine at my convenience between 10% and 0.
High quality synthetic oil will last for many more miles than the Ridigeline intervals, but it also depends on your driving and driving conditions. I have seen cars with service intervals double the recommended for the Ridgeline, and they are using the same oil.
I do recommend the filter to be changed at every oil change. The old filter will contain an amount of old oil to be mixed into the fresh oil, even if you empty it. A new filter is cheap and reliable.
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