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? Now (Political Commentary Removed) I'm making good money again and would like to make my Ridgeline Great Again (Certainly not going to buy a Second Gen)... The ONLY thing I've done for it, since it was born, 110,000 miles ago, aside from general maintenance, is the right axle, when it was spewing grease a few months back...
It runs great, no leaks, and I don't want any problems...
If you wanted to revamp yours so it will last another 12 years, what order, to what "repairs", would you do?!?
My thought is "If it's going to break, so why not fix it before it causes me anguish"...
I look forward to your inputs... Thanks
 

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? Now (Political Commentary Removed) I'm making good money again and would like to make my Ridgeline Great Again (Certainly not going to buy a Second Gen)... The ONLY thing I've done for it, since it was born, 110,000 miles ago, aside from general maintenance, is the right axle, when it was spewing grease a few months back...
It runs great, no leaks, and I don't want any problems...
If you wanted to revamp yours so it will last another 12 years, what order, to what "repairs", would you do?!?
My thought is "If it's going to break, so why not fix it before it causes me anguish"...
I look forward to your inputs... Thanks
Required maintenance is key, I believe. Then take care of problems that arise as it ages and don't let issues accumulate.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Required maintenance is key, I believe. Then take care of problems that arise as it ages and don't let issues accumulate.
Yeah, thanks, I've owned dozens of vehicles... missing the point... The beauty of this forum is our Brother-Owners have already experienced things breaking, "Wisdom is learning from the mistakes of others", not that normal breakdowns are "mistakes", but If anyone could have replaced their radiator before it blew up on the freeway, would they have done it? Of course they would have... My question is "What breaks at 110,000 miles" so I can make it new BEFORE I'm stranded on the freeway... Has there ever been such a great website for ANY vehicle as this one?!? I'm looking for Brotherly "been there, done that, you don't want to" warnings...
 

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Yeah, thanks, I've owned dozens of vehicles... missing the point... The beauty of this forum is our Brother-Owners have already experienced things breaking, "Wisdom is learning from the mistakes of others", not that normal breakdowns are "mistakes", but If anyone could have replaced their radiator before it blew up on the freeway, would they have done it? Of course they would have... My question is "What breaks at 110,000 miles" so I can make it new BEFORE I'm stranded on the freeway... Has there ever been such a great website for ANY vehicle as this one?!? I'm looking for Brotherly "been there, done that, you don't want to" warnings...
I too have been the owner driver of many vehicles after driving 64 years and amassing about 2-1/2 million miles. Several I have taken to 350,000 miles. This current Ridge is the best rig I have driven. By this time next month it will be in the shop for it's third timing belt, water pump, plugs, coolant etc. It will be at 305,000 for that event. Back when I had your miles on my RTL, I replaced all the shocks and struts.

So, I can't think of any big serious part replacements with your miles. I did replace the radiator at about 150,000 and the right front axle that came down with a leaky boot about the same time.

FYI, this RTL has never left me stranded because of mechanical issues. Been T-boned by other at fault drivers but was able to drive away both times, one with $10,000 in damage.
 

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Replace the radiator. If the timing belt/water pump replacement hasn't been done, add that to the list. Replace all fluids as per maintenance schedule (substitute with synthetic where applicable) and general inspection of expendable items as brakes, tires, air and cabin filters etc, etc. I could go on but you get the drift.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I too have been the owner driver of many vehicles after driving 64 years and amassing about 2-1/2 million miles. Several I have taken to 350,000 miles. This current Ridge is the best rig I have driven. By this time next month it will be in the shop for it's third timing belt, water pump, plugs, coolant etc. It will be at 305,000 for that event. Back when I had your miles on my RTL, I replaced all the shocks and struts.

So, I can't think of any big serious part replacements with your miles. I did replace the radiator at about 150,000 and the right front axle that came down with a leaky boot about the same time.

FYI, this RTL has never left me stranded because of mechanical issues. Been T-boned by other at fault drivers but was able to drive away both times, one with $10,000 in damage.
150,000 on the radiator, good to know, I've read about the strawberry shake and it made me shake... and that 350,000 miles excites me too... After everything mechanical has been gone through, I'm figuring on paint and body, so longevity counts... Thank you...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Replace the radiator. If the timing belt/water pump replacement hasn't been done, add that to the list. Replace all fluids as per maintenance schedule (substitute with synthetic where applicable) and general inspection of expendable items as brakes, tires, air and cabin filters etc, etc. I could go on but you get the drift.
Please go on...
I'm thinking Timing Belt, Water Pump and Radiator at the same time, as in "while you're in there", anything else go with that at that time? Brakes, Tires, Fluids, and Filters get changed out regularly, it's the big stuff like ball joints, all the under carriage rubbers, brake cylinders, struts, universal joints, etc... any timing on those or other things? I regularly jack up my truck, remove all 4 wheels and lay under it looking at everything from different angles... great truck...
 

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2010 RT - Bali Blue
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  • Radiator, Thermostat, Coolant hoses
  • check and replace engine mounts
  • check and replace transmission mount
  • check and replace propeller shaft
  • check and replace sway bar end links
  • check and replace tie rod ends
  • check and replace lower control arms
  • totally remove and clean the intake manifold and lower runners
  • adjust the valves, if needed
  • check and replace brake calipers and hoses (if needed)
  • check and replace valve cover, spark plug, valve cover stud gaskets
  • check and replace PCV valve.
Since you mentioned you address the maintenance items, I would presume that you already have the spark plugs, timing belt, brake fluids, ATF, transfer case, and rear diff addressed.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
YOU caught my drift!!! Thanks... Motor and Transmission mounts, are a surprise, what are there basic lifespans?
 

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The mounts depend on use, environment the vehicle is used in, and age of the vehicle. I replaced my passenger side one recently and it was totally shot. I am unaware of the other two, but have those in my garage to replace in the next couple of weeks when I find some time. Since they were rather inexpensive, and I do have some movement (feels excessive) in the engine bay and I have more than twice your mileage, it is best to do that.

Also I forgot to mention the swaybar bushings. Those end up crapping out and it starts to rattle.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The mounts depend on use, environment the vehicle is used in, and age of the vehicle. I replaced my passenger side one recently and it was totally shot. I am unaware of the other two, but have those in my garage to replace in the next couple of weeks when I find some time. Since they were rather inexpensive, and I do have some movement (feels excessive) in the engine bay and I have more than twice your mileage, it is best to do that.

Also I forgot to mention the swaybar bushings. Those end up crapping out and it starts to rattle.
Cool, I don't do anything to stress the engine or tranny mounts, I live in coastal flatlands, in fact the only time I ever saw a mount fail was in a hardcore offroad jeep... However, if any procedure requires lifting the engine or tranny, I will have them replaced... Thanks...
 

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@RMarkL Mounts can be replaced by gently supporting the engine from below using a hyraulic jack. The passenger side was very easy, once I removed all the electronics out of the way. It was no more than 40 minutes. I am unfamiliar with the front and back mounts, but can circle back with you once I get that done (or someone who has done it themselves could chime in).

On another note, for the sake of civility and eliminate misunderstanding, can we please reserve offtopic opinions to private conversations? (y)
 

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For a price, I would make copies of every invoice that was issued on my RTL since I drove it off the showroom in 2008. My file, in my cabinet, is more than 6 inches thick. The only invoices I haven't saved are car washes. I even have all my gas receipts since it was new. They total over $50,000. When I eventually sell this RTL, someone will have a lot of reading material. In a week it should have 305,000 miles. Did I mention, this vehicle drives and operates just like the day it came off the showroom? All the light bulbs still illuminate and the HVAC operates just as it did new..
 

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2006 Ridgeline RTS in Steel Blue
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Ok, I thought @RMarkL’s opening is funny, I just can’t take everything so seriously so @xzxz & @onekathryn, so I hope you both can too. But I will take all responsibility for all of us moderators to do a better job and read each and every post. With a week away and a following week of both personal and professional insane work loads, I’m only about 200-300 posts behind in my “free time unpaid job as a moderator”

WITH THIS IN MIND @RMarkL & @Farther THIS ISN’T THE PLACE FOR POLITICAL DISCUSSIONS.

I will let the the thread continue and I will leave the opening for now, because I hope it’s opening is intended to be funny, if another moderator decides to close this thread, well there’s your answer.
 

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any update @RMarkL ?

@Carsmak , 200~300 posts BEHIND??????!!!! I know you were on vacation, but WTH!! Get back to work

? ? ?

Hope you are refreshed and enjoyed the time away. ROC has very good moderators and you guys do a phenomenal task in keeping the community clean and civil. Thank you for what you and the other moderators do; most importantly, being responsive and approachable. Many thanks. ✋
 

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I have 201K miles on my '06. I wish I had known about the rust that develops above the rear wheel well pinch welds. I would have treated the inside area above that weld sooner with rust prevention spray. You can remove the side bed liner walls to get access to this area and do it yourself or make it easy for Ziebart to get to it with their prevention sprays.
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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Routine maintenance (preventative) is my suggestion. Do TB/WP/sparkplugs/hydraulic tensioner/serpentine belt and tensioner, cam seals, valve adjustment, radiator and coolant, etc. before failure. Suspension components/wheel bearings as needed. Should last for many years and miles.

Consistent maintenance and driven reasonably should take you a long way down the road.
 

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I too have been the owner driver of many vehicles after driving 64 years and amassing about 2-1/2 million miles. Several I have taken to 350,000 miles. This current Ridge is the best rig I have driven. By this time next month it will be in the shop for it's third timing belt, water pump, plugs, coolant etc. It will be at 305,000 for that event. Back when I had your miles on my RTL, I replaced all the shocks and struts.

So, I can't think of any big serious part replacements with your miles. I did replace the radiator at about 150,000 and the right front axle that came down with a leaky boot about the same time.

FYI, this RTL has never left me stranded because of mechanical issues. Been T-boned by other at fault drivers but was able to drive away both times, one with $10,000 in damage.
I'm at 152k on my 2007 and would like to "refresh" it some. Do you recall if the new shocks/struts made a significant difference?

Thx
 

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I have 201K miles on my '06. I wish I had known about the rust that develops above the rear wheel well pinch welds. I would have treated the inside area above that weld sooner with rust prevention spray. You can remove the side bed liner walls to get access to this area and do it yourself or make it easy for Ziebart to get to it with their prevention sprays.
I live in southern Ontario , drive all winter long in all conditions and have ZERO rust. I used Rust Check until the dealer screwed me over on the wife's 1st Mercedes. Then I went to Krown (similar product) and have my vehicles done every year. As far as the wheel wells go, we just pull the tail lights and use a long wand.
 
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