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1G Mushy Brakes

3645 Views 15 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  fmicmatt
There is a 2G thread about this that inspired my to get off my butt and fix my mushy 1G brakes. My wife and I bled the system about a month ago and the brakes were great after. We took a weeklong vacation and now it's back to the mush. I checked my calipers and slides. Everything works freely as it should. I do notice that the pads appear to be burnt with some of the friction material curling up around the edge of the pads. Maybe crap pads...they look pretty thick/new.

I'm at the point of trying different pads & rotors. I'm just not sure if I should add new calipers and step up to the MDX stuff since I'm doing it. I will be towing cars to and from the drag strip. Maybe replace the master since I have to bleed it anyway.

Thoughts?






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I had the same problem, hated the way the pedal felt. Did truck stop, yes. Deliberate panic stop , just mash pedal to floor, did truck stop, yes. But on a normal stop, felt like I was chasing pedal to floor. Changed rear pads because they needed to be changed, no felt difference. Had Honda do a master and ABS modulator bleed. Felt a difference for awhile. Then noticed it started to feel mushy again. Had to challenge frt pads and holy mackerel, she had a hard pedal. YEA!!! That was 4 months ago. Haven't driven truck much since early Dec 2016. Rt foot surgery. Just started driving a few weeks ago and noticed pedal was feeling soft again. Truck does stop when I want it to, so I guess I'll live with it.
Not sure it's worth doing a whole caliper,rotor and pads change over.

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Problem is....my wife drives a 2007 MDX. I know what good brakes are like. Every time I get in the MDX I eat the steering wheel.


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I had an 08 Odyssey that had a soft pedal that went way too low to the floor. Turns out that air was entering the VSA modulator and there was a recall for this. I'm starting to think almost a decade later Honda hasn't gotten it right. Brakes shouldn't become mushy after a bleed.
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Some Gen1s and Gen2's have the same bad brakes issue. Over the years of the Gen1's production, independent automotive tests have shown the Gen1's stopping distance from 60-0 MPH varying from 117 ft to 195 ft and performing the worst of all mid-size trucks when trying to stop with a load. Also, these independent reviews have reported inconsistent braking with the Gen2 as well. This wildly broad braking performance suggests there's something going on with Honda's production.

Personally, I've not loved my Gen1's brakes, but they were adequate until I needed to control my descent down a steep hill while towing (trailer brakes can only do so much). I recently had my front rotors and pads replaced. When I got it back, my Gen1 suddenly had a much higher bite point and now brakes like a champ and the dealer said/documented that the only thing they did was replace the rotors and pads, no brake bleeding. Other ROC members have told me that replacing the rotors and pads should not affect the bite point; but a change in brake fluid and/or brake bleeding could have such an effect. Over my Gen1's lifetime, I've had the brakes bled twice and neither event affected my braking performance like this last repair did​. A week later, I contacted my dealership that replaced my rotors and pads to verify what they did and they said they didn't touch the fluid. Months latter, it's still performing like a champ.
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I Just put Hawk lts pads on a 2014 gen1 (front only) and improvement was quite dramatic -much better. Previous pads were centric posi-quiet ceramic which are pretty good for most vehicles but I think ridge needs a pad with more bite. I will probably swap rear pads to lts also now that I see how much better they work.Also seem to have just about same noise level.Wont know about dust level for a while yet but thats a minor concern to me.
The Pilot /MDX larger brake swap probably won't do much for your brake pedal feel. It will probably give you more total braking power.

If you change your front calipers and are careful (plug the banjo fitting ASAP after caliper removal and put some saran wrap on top of the MC reservoir prior to putting on its cap) then you can avoid needing to go to extreme methods to bleed the brakes. I don't think you will see much benefit from replacing the MC unless yours is truly worn out. The shop manual has tests for that. . . .

I just replaced the front pads, rotors and calipers (rebuilt OEM) and notice much greater initial bite and overall much improved brake feel and stopping power. I am using EBC Extra Duty front pads and EBC oem type rotors.

I will be doing the rears shortly.

I also had purchased a set of Shoptec stainless brake lines in the hope of improving pedal feel. These ended up being too short (fronts anyway) and one fitting stripped out with almost no effort. I had to abandon that part of my upgrade and reinstall the OEM hoses. I did end up buying a TechnaFit set that is the correct length up front and I will eventually install the braided hoses all around. I can report on any pedal improvement from that once I get that done. Hopefully I will have time this coming week??

Here's a thread I started on my recent brake upgrade . . .http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...alls-how-s/169809-brake-overhaul-upgrade.html
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Installed: 07' MDX Brakes Today
StopTech Slotted Rotors
EBC Yellow Pads
Used 07'-13' Acura MDX Calipers

I'll see how they hold up. Brakes are awesome right now. Just like my wife's 07 MDX.


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Yep, been using EBC Yellow Stuff pads and EBC dimpled and slotted rotors ever since my OEM's wore out about 200,000 miles ago. Best brakes of any vehicle I have ever driven in the 2 million miles plus I have cruised around this nation.
feetdry, just the pads and rotors? And without searching,( im lazy at the moment) where's the cheapest place to get them?

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Yes, just pads and rotors. The last purchase was from autoanything.com, dba blue ribbon motoring out of San Diego. I have also ordered them from rock auto in the past.
Great info, thanks guys...did NOT know about the poor braking distance info.

My 2006 had mushy brakes on and off for the first 3-4 years...bad enough that panic stops were terrifying...pedal nearly all the way to the floor and very slow grab & deceleration.
The dealer kept 'fixing' it, with varying degrees of improvement, the best of which was barely acceptable....probably should have thrown a fit in the showroom, thinking back on it now.
It improved a lot when they put new pads (rears?) on it several years ago.

I thought maybe I was being too persnickety (with pedal feel) as I'd become used to vintage mercedes (4 wheel disc brake) pedal feel which was always rock hard and very quick to grab.
Will follow this thread, as I'm starting to assemble a 'reasonable' list of maintenance items for my next visit, and will share here for advice/suggestions when I get it together.
As usual, this forum is a godsend for keeping my truck, uh, on -truckin' !
Thanks again.
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I too had very mushy brakes, and pedal would go down to the "oh uh" level.

My slider pins were seized (now unseized) and the old brake fluid got replaced. Now brakes like new.
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2 month Update: Brakes are even better now! The rotors and pads are in great shape. Worrying about stopping distance or pedal squish feel is done. Now I worry about all the stuff piled on my seats and bed flying everywhere when stop quickly. I've towed my car hauler and project car all over town and the freeway. Zero issues or any worries about braking. Absolutely perfect.


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2 month Update: Brakes are even better now! The rotors and pads are in great shape. Worrying about stopping distance or pedal squish feel is done. Now I worry about all the stuff piled on my seats and bed flying everywhere when stop quickly. I've towed my car hauler and project car all over town and the freeway. Zero issues or any worries about braking. Absolutely perfect.


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Fmicmatt, what is needed to make the swap over to 2007 MDX brakes?

As much information as you have would be greatly appreciated.




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Fmicmatt, what is needed to make the swap over to 2007 MDX brakes?

As much information as you have would be greatly appreciated.




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Exactly what I posted in the first page of this thread.
1. 2007 OEM MDX Front Calipers
2. 2007 MDX EBC Yellow Pads
3. 2007 MDX Stop-tech Slotted Rotors

Everything fits perfect on the Ridge. I did a manual bleed with the wife and it's been good ever since. I only did the front brakes since they do 80% of the braking. No issues with proportioning or anything else.


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