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I picked up my RTL-E this week (#9621), had some bugs but it won't discourage me. At 13 miles on the clock:

-Noticed a ding in the body that the dealer put there. They wanted to drill the door jam to do PDR, I said no way. I gutted the entire rear seat and trim, to give my own PDR guy access and he removed it in 10 minutes so all good there.

-Tailgate swing latch became inoperative* (drop latch was ok) I took it apart, shortened the rod, and fine tuned all the latches. The tailgate is a joy now

-AC lines chafing: open your hood and look at the two silver AC lines by the firewall (the ones with the service ports) mine were chafing together pretty tight. If this is not fixed, the lines will cut each other open. Take the upper line and gently bend it away from the lower line, save yourself major trauma. You want to keep your original AC* charge intact, and replacement of these lines may require serious dismantling of the truck and you always want to avoid that, even if it's covered

-left rear door jam switch inoperative, remove and re-install, fixed ground, all good

-connector C601 (the one from the dash warning lights thread): no problems, but after reading the forums I decided to open it up for inspection. Seal looks good. Treated with marine CRC 6-56. I will also build a shield for this connection, I'm confident it won't be a problem. Access to this connection is extremely easy. Be sure truck is completely off and "sleeping" before opening this connection

-one lower trim plastic and bumper top plastic not engaged properly, took a minute to fix

Bottom line, these things are simple fixes and cannot take away from this wonderful truck. It rides like a hovercraft and the audio is incredible.

I find the truck is much more enjoyable in D4 mode under 60mph, and have gotten used to switching back and forth. This begs a question, I wonder if VCM is disabled in D4?

I have pics of everything all taken apart and will post here soon.
 

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Wow, you are proactive! I love that.

The dealer wanting to drill into your new car pisses me off more than words. Glad you said no. This dealers, I swear, some lazy mofo's.

Looking forward to pictures of the AC lines, that's the first I've heard of that and the one thing that sounds a bit concerning. Thanks!
 

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I picked up my RTL-E this week (#9621), had some bugs but it won't discourage me. At 13 miles on the clock:

-Noticed a ding in the body that the dealer put there. They wanted to drill the door jam to do PDR, I said no way. I gutted the entire rear seat and trim, to give my own PDR guy access and he removed it in 10 minutes so all good there.

-Tailgate swing latch became inoperative* (drop latch was ok) I took it apart, shortened the rod, and fine tuned all the latches. The tailgate is a joy now

-AC lines chafing: open your hood and look at the two silver AC lines by the firewall (the ones with the service ports) mine were chafing together pretty tight. If this is not fixed, the lines will cut each other open. Take the upper line and gently bend it away from the lower line, save yourself major trauma. You want to keep your original AC* charge intact, and replacement of these lines may require serious dismantling of the truck and you always want to avoid that, even if it's covered

-left rear door jam switch inoperative, remove and re-install, fixed ground, all good

-connector C601 (the one from the dash warning lights thread): no problems, but after reading the forums I decided to open it up for inspection. Seal looks good. Treated with marine CRC 6-56. I will also build a shield for this connection, I'm confident it won't be a problem. Access to this connection is extremely easy. Be sure truck is completely off and "sleeping" before opening this connection

-one lower trim plastic and bumper top plastic not engaged properly, took a minute to fix

Bottom line, these things are simple fixes and cannot take away from this wonderful truck. It rides like a hovercraft and the audio is incredible.

I find the truck is much more enjoyable in D4 mode under 60mph, and have gotten used to switching back and forth. This begs a question, I wonder if VCM is disabled in D4?

I have pics of everything all taken apart and will post here soon.
Now that's the kind of stuff Speedlever loves. Proactive measures.
 

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-AC lines chafing: open your hood and look at the two silver AC lines by the firewall (the ones with the service ports) mine were chafing together pretty tight.

-connector C601 (the one from the dash warning lights thread): no problems, but after reading the forums I decided to open it up for inspection. Seal looks good. Treated with marine CRC 6-56. I will also build a shield for this connection, I'm confident it won't be a problem. Access to this connection is extremely easy. Be sure truck is completely off and "sleeping" before opening this connection.
Just looked at mine (VIN under 6000) and the AC lines looked fine. No metal to metal contact at all and the foam thermal insulation, although in contact, was not in tight contact. I assume this is the area in the attached picture (in area shown by blue arrow)?

I thought higher VIN were supposed to have fewer problems! So much for that theory. I saw none of this on mine except the tailgate (fixed).

I plan to do nothing on the connector issue at this time since I have had no failures and I am in the ultra desert dry for several months in this area which should be time for Honda to come up with something.
 

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Bill i think we were cut from the same cloth... there were so many minor bugs I found as well but kinda kept it hush-hush. I sure did air out my dirty laundry when it same to the hesitation and door gap issue. When I complain to honda, they don't see or appreciate the things that i DID correct and not have to trouble them with. I'm thinking of trading this for a pilot or another brand all together. I was hoping to trade my RTL for an RTL-E, but if you and others are having issues even with late production VINs this makes me think twice. :(
 

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The dealer wanting to drill into your new car pisses me off more than words. Glad you said no. This dealers, I swear, some lazy mofo's.
No s***! I think that dealer would have been treated to a few choice words if not a letter to the state AG consumer division.
 

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I'm thinking of trading this for a pilot or another brand all together. I was hoping to trade my RTL for an RTL-E, but if you and others are having issues even with late production VINs this makes me think twice. :(
I understand the frustration but I seriously think that there is no such thing anymore as a really good product. Between bad attitudes toward quality everywhere from the assembly line to the CEO in almost every large company and the complexity of modern products (not just vehicles), I think it often boils down to luck. I am not so sure going to something else is going to get one anything but a different set of issues.

Of course, if anything is bad enough, one would want to change and what is "bad enough" is up to the individual owner.

Of course you have owned over 20 vehicles in (much) less time than I have owned 10 so would have seen more problems. As they say in aviation, a twin is nice backup but you have 2X times engine failures! :grin:
 

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I don't really consider these things problems, I blame the people who assembled the truck rather than Honda quality. In the end, the truck is perfect mechanically at this point.

Anything else that should arise I think can be worked out. I'll strip this truck upside down and backwards to find the answer to any problems, and post the one-time fix.

GTRdone is your truck sorted out now?
 

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I don't really consider these things problems, I blame the people who assembled the truck rather than Honda quality. In the end, the truck is perfect mechanically at this point.
My best, most trouble free Japanese vehicles were made 'In Japan'. I do believe that the shifting of manufacturing here to the States (and to Mexico...where Toyota makes Tacomas) has reduced the quality of the final product, not due to the cheapness of the parts or the original engineering, but the assembly people not having the same cultural standards, as a group, as the Japanese do.

Many of the workers here do have that high standard; however, I would put the percentage who don't much higher here than in Japan; thus the overall lowering of final product quality for manufacturers like Toyota and Honda.

Remember the old days when we bought US cars/trucks and were told to stay away from the Monday and Friday built vehicles? I remember sitting at a dealer with my father, when I was 10, as he negotiated for a new Oldsmobile and that subject came up. The salesman assured him that it would be a Tuesday-Thursday vehicle, nodding knowingly at what was being asked for. When the vehicle came in, my father got to see the paperwork and confirmed that it was build mid-week. They drove that Olds for 10 years, I got it, drove it for another 5, sold it, and saw it 10 years later with 270k on it and running like a top. It wouldn't surprise me if it was still on the road today.
 

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Anything else that should arise I think can be worked out. I'll strip this truck upside down and backwards to find the answer to any problems, and post the one-time fix.
Billman, I admire your DIY attitude in fixing the chafing AC lines, bad door switch ground, tailgate latch control rods, etc. These are things that I would do myself, too.

However, I doubt if anyone who doesn't have access to full manufacturer's documentation could find the problem with the harness connector causing the now-infamous dashboard "Christmas tree light show" in any reasonable amount of time. Or any problem with that Borq-like mishmash of computers and hydraulics that makes up the AWD/torque-vectoring drivetrain.

As is often pointed out by politicians, "Given enough time and money, no problem is insoluble!" While the veracity of this remains unproven (since they still haven't used up all of the money and time), for us individual shade tree mechanics, the limits are a bit tighter, so we must depend on warranties.
 

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Negative bill, waiting on tuesday to see if they want to take it back in exchange for another one. If not, i'll try the lemon route and wash my hands of honda. I'm in between houses and don't have my shop with a lift, access to all my tools etc. and there's so many issues i'm not even going to start to fix them myself. I really needed this truck as i build my own custom home. the so called "luxury" apartment i'm in now is experiencing a leaky roof that has been "fixed" 4 times and the ceiling is about to cave in. when it rains it pours...
 

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so i just popped the hood and noticed the two ac lines. yes there is a small foam wrapping that separates the two however mine is at an angle, and at the base of the pressure cap it appears to be digging into the foam, maybe only a matter of time before it cuts into the line itself. I also noticed that the hood liner has a ton of white streaks on it. looks like water that has seeped in from the gasket. it is barely making contact with the hood, i.e. it's not sealed completely. I verified this by closing the hood and i was able to stick my fingers into the rubber seal. there was a small gap it offered no resistance whats so ever. if i lower the two black rubber hood grommets, this may allow the hood to sink down and create a better seal, but it will misalign the hood to the quarter panels. that's okay, it will match the door gap on my doors LOL. I'm slowly becoming anti-honda, the more i look at this ridgeline, the more i see that it's a polished turd.
 
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so i just popped the hood and noticed the two ac lines. yes there is a small foam wrapping that separates the two however mine is at an angle, and at the base of the pressure cap it appears to be digging into the foam....
Well, mine was "digging into" the foam but just a bit (see the picture). It was more like compressing the foam a bit. Even If I cut away the foam, there would still be space between the tubes. It would take an earthquake of vibration to cause any tube damage, with or w/o the foam. Of course yours may be worse.
 

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I also bent my AC line up a little as suggested. Thanks.

On another note, my auto dimming mirror does not seem to have any power running to it. Neither of the two small indicator lights ever light up at night or in the daytime.

I would rather fix this myself. Does anyone know if the connector is up where the garage door buttons and map lights are. Also what fuse would be controlling the mirror? My daughter's Elantra had the same problem upon delivery and it was a simple disconnected fuse.

Thanks, Brad
 

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I also bent my AC line up a little as suggested. Thanks.

On another note, my auto dimming mirror does not seem to have any power running to it. Neither of the two small indicator lights ever light up at night or in the daytime.

I would rather fix this myself. Does anyone know if the connector is up where the garage door buttons and map lights are. Also what fuse would be controlling the mirror? My daughter's Elantra had the same problem upon delivery and it was a simple disconnected fuse.

Thanks, Brad
Why would you rather fix this yourself? You have a new vehicle and it has a warranty. Anything that is not okay take it back let the dealer fix it. If they don't fix the problem you have a record of that service. This will even carry when the vehicle is out of warranty. My auto dim mirror went bad a few years after buying the car new. I was on the Acura TL forums just like this. A few members had already reported problems with their Auto-Dim mirror. I went out one day and mine was cloudy looking a fluid had started leaking from it. I said this on the forum and was warned not to touch the stuff. That fluid is corrosive it ate trim parts down by my gear shifter. Acura dealer replaced the mirror and had to order the damaged trim pieces. Take it back have a paper trail of this type of stuff this was a bad batch of mirrors.
I had a problem with brake warning light took it back at least 3 times when car was under warranty. It was very rare that this happen it went on for years. After the vehicle was out of it's warranty it showed up again after 5yrs.
I took it back to the dealer and they fixed it under goodwill because of paperwork. It was the brake reservoir cap
 
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On another note, my auto dimming mirror does not seem to have any power running to it. Neither of the two small indicator lights ever light up at night or in the daytime.
I don't believe there are indicator lights on the auto dimming rearview mirror that comes from the factory. My 2017 doesn't have any lights nor did my 2016 CR-V nor did my 2014 Ridgeline, yet they all dim. My 2010 or 2007 Ridgelines didn't come from the factory with the autodim mirror, so I added the Honda accessory mirror with the compass - it did have a green light that lit up when the autodim function was on.
 

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I don't believe there are indicator lights on the auto dimming rearview mirror that comes from the factory. My 2017 doesn't have any lights nor did my 2016 CR-V nor did my 2014 Ridgeline, yet they all dim. My 2010 or 2007 Ridgelines didn't come from the factory with the autodim mirror, so I added the Honda accessory mirror with the compass - it did have a green light that lit up when the autodim function was on.
Thanks, you are correct. My son came over and checked out the mirror. It was working fine. The slots for what I thought to be lights are actually just sensors.
 
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