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2006 Air Conditioning major problems

13K views 23 replies 14 participants last post by  zroger73 
#1 ·
Just returned from my local Honda dealer with major bad news-the air conditioning system is ruined. Apparently, the air-conditioning compressor seals have separated with black “gung” flowing through out the system. The parts would come to nearly $2000 with an additional $1000 labor! While I love my 2006 Ridgeline, that kind of money makes me consider a trade. While the air-conditioning still works, it just does not cool adequately-just barely cool on the lowest setting.

The dealer has been very cooperative and would consider after-market parts to install but the labor cost would be unchanged.

Here is what would be necessary to replace:

Part# 38810-rgl-A01 Compressor 721.02
Part# 38900-rgm-505 Clutch Set 219.59
Part# 38924-rje-a01 Stator Set 72.77
Part# 80110-sjc-a01 Condenser 331.77
Part# 80315-sjc-a00 Discharge Hose 80.48
Part# 80342-sjc-a00 Pipe B, Receiver 20.52
Part# 80341-sjc-a51 Pipe B, Receiver 62.67
Part# 80311-sjc-a01 Suction Hose 59.65
Part# 80321-sjc-a02 Suction Pipe 26.38
Part# 90131-+sjc-a00 Flange Bolt .47
Part# 80215-sjc-a02 Evaporator Sub-Assy 283.30
Part# 80221-stx-a41 Expansion Valve Assy. 12.63

Total for parts: $1891.25

Labor: $1,000

Tax: 160.76

Any thoughts or recommendations? I love the truck but I am looking for reasonable alternatives.

Thanks.
 
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#3 ·
Let me second, the second opinion.

Although I would argue the junk yard option. If the system is open, odds are good it is, there is too many contaminates that could get into the system.

I am no AC expert, but I am seeing a near complete system replace on your list. I can not fathom that being necessary. Try a shop that specializes in AC.
 
#4 ·
Stay away from the dealer unless it's warranty work. Head to a nice shop and just tell them the AC doesn't work right. Don't tell them anything about the dealer.
 
#5 ·
+1 on salvage yard idea. Depending on where you live, you may find a very suitable solution there.
I was going to help my son install a replacement engine into a Saturn he bought recently.... but the salvage yard we got the engine from offered to do the engine install labor for $200.! ! ! Yeah, we took that deal. All went very well & our hands did not get nearly as dirty (even though we already had pulled the old engine before we knew we could have them do it at the yard). I'm in the San Diego area, and maybe you won't find as much accommodation near you, but it's certainly worth a try. If you can find the parts @ salvage yard, then just get a quote from someone who can remove & replace the entire system for you & then recharge it (or have someone else do that).
Once you have those numbers you'll be in a better place to make your decisions.

P.S. I would be completely comfortable with an AC system from a salvage yard RL with reasonably low mileage and a good "only if it's good" warranty.
 
#6 ·
A typical repair for a failure like this involves replacing the compressor, expansion valve, and receiver followed by an evacuation and refrigerant recharge. There should be no need to replace the evaporator (a BIG chunk of the labor cost) the condensor, or the refrigerant lines. This should be about a $1,200-$1,500 repair if done properly. You might get away for half this price with salvage yard components and a "back yard" repair, but there is a significant risk it won't cool for very long.
 
#7 ·
The dealer indicated the reason the system is "plugged" is that a black carbon filter came apart sending black debris throughout the system. They did evacuate the system, recharged it with added dye to confirm no leaks.

The reason given to completely replace the entire system was everything listed as been contaminated and without replacing all the listed items, it will probably soon been plugged again.

I am considering "aftermarket" parts, namely from Denso but I am unsure as to the quality of the parts (they are a LOT cheaper).

Alternately, I could shop online to many of the Honda Parts (dealers) to see if they have lower prices including shipping. I am considering all the good suggestions given.
 
#8 ·
I am considering "aftermarket" parts, namely from Denso but I am unsure as to the quality of the parts (they are a LOT cheaper).

.

We use Denso condensers in our shop quite a lot. 98% of the time they work with out a hitch. Radiators and condensers are one of the very, very, very, very few times you will ever hear me encourage aftermarket.
 
#9 · (Edited)
I've done two A/C system overhauls in my home garage. I replaced the compressor, dryer, expansion valve -orifice, pressure switch, and o-rings. Basically everything except the evaporator and condenser. I flushed any contaminates from the system using two cans of the product in the image below from O'Reilly Auto Supply.



For my first job, I bought a vacuum pump and gauge set for evacuating and recharging the system. The vacuum pump was from Harbor Freight. I think with me buying all the parts and A/C service tools, it cost me somewhere in the neighborhood of $700. Then for the next job, I already had the gauges and vacuum pump. The second job cost under $500. I bought all new premium parts "with warranties" for the overhauls.

Both jobs have been running for over two years now.

I think there is a lot of profit to be made in A/C service jobs.

Somehow I think Honda sources their Just-In-Time manufacturing parts along with their Alabama auto manufacturing neighbors from a company named Federal Mogul. Its easy to see why SMP Intermotor and BWD Intermotor parts when placed side-by-side with OEM look identical. It is because both are sourced from Denso.
 
#10 ·
We dodged the bullet on our 03 CRV last when the compressor went out but no implosion. Compressor w/clutch replaced and total system evac and recharged for $650. Indie mechanic (Charlie's). Dealer's estimate $1100-1800.
 
#11 ·
I have done systems when the descant cartridge exploded and sent the black looking carbon through the entire system. Take all line off and blow everything out with nitrogen, then vacuum the system as normal and all if fine. The only thing that was replace was the compressor, dryer, accumulator and orifice filter.
 
#18 ·
We had that done on our 03 CRV. In fact, the compressor just stopped working.
Mechanic replaced that, evacuated the system and recharged. Keeping in mind the compressor was only $365 (cheap compared to the RL) likely remaned, + dryer. Still works great a year later with 100 deg temps outside.
Total bill was $700 against the dealer's estimate of $1100 minimum if the compressor did not blow.
 
#14 ·
If you plan on keeping it multiple years then I'd get it repaired. I would take it an AC shop & see what they had to say. Like was already said don't mention you've been to the dealer.

If you don't have plans to keep it multiple years this is a good excuse to get something new.
 
#21 ·
I suspected something was amiss when you mentioned both a schrader valve and the condenser was replaced. The chances of two different components failing at the same time is very slim. More likely, the shop damaged an additional component during the initial repair and made you pay for it. Or, they decided to charge you for a part that wasn't broken. Call me a pessimist, but I'd call me a realist. I know how these things work. Even "honest" shops have dishonest employees. If the expansion valve fixes the problem for good, then you probably wasted $750 on an misdiagnosed repair the first time around. :)
 
#23 ·
In regards to original post. How did the dealer know black gunky stuff flowed all through the system? If it did you would not have any cooling at all as the expansion valve would have plugged up and you would have developed a very high pressure on the high side and would have blown a relief valve and lost all refrigerant. On the ridgeline there is a relay and a fuse that protects and controls the magnetic clutch on the compressor. If the clutch does not engage no refrigerant will flow. With out seeing the pressure readings a diagnosis would be just a guess. If you were getting a little cooling I would check two things, (1) inside cabin filter, it is behind the glove box above the blower. (2) a leaking heater shut off valve, it would let hot water flow thru the heater coil reducing your cooling capacity. Take it to a reliable repair shop if you are not A/C trained. Ask for references if you do not personally know the owner of the shop. Remember Freon does not wear out, it leaks out.
 
#24 ·
In regards to original post. How did the dealer know black gunky stuff flowed all through the system? If it did you would not have any cooling at all as the expansion valve would have plugged up and you would have developed a very high pressure on the high side and would have blown a relief valve and lost all refrigerant. On the ridgeline there is a relay and a fuse that protects and controls the magnetic clutch on the compressor.
Most vehicles (including the Ridgeline) also have a high pressure cutout switch or a pressure sensor that will turn the compressor off before the system can reach a pressure high enough to open the relief valve. Not only would there have to be a restriction in the system, but the high pressure cutout mechanism would have to fail at the same time. On rare occasions, the output to the compressor can fail or a relay's contacts can weld closed causing the compressor to run continuously. If the ambient temperature is extremely high and/or there is insufficient air flow over the condenser, it is possible for the relief valve to open.
 
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