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Discussion Starter #1
Trucks got 190k on it, spend all its life with my dad in CT winters. bolts going from cats to the y pipe, or what ever its called are rusty looking cones and not Hex heads anymore. bolts coming off cats to heads look to be pretty clean. I was told I would need a Torch to heat them up or I may break the studs? Is this correct? I did find a YouTube on changing these but it was on a Pilot which im sure is a same to similar method. Any tips?



Thanks,


Brian
 

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How have you determined you need new catalyst? The chances of breaking a bolt are very high, which is a nightmare of its own. I had been throwing the p0420 code for the past year, and came close enough to purchasing that I was in the check out page with card details entered and I backed out, deciding to give the spark plug nonfouler trick a shot. Buy 2 sets of 2 spark plug nonfoulers and drill 1 from each set out to a half inch. This is your top spacer, the sensor screws into it, and then screw the widened one into the other unmodified spacer, which you then install in the converter. It is seriously worth the $10, as long as your converter isn’t clogged or melted you should see a dramatic improvement. To recap it’s much easier to install the two spacers/nonfoulers first and then the sensor. I apologize for any formatting issues, first post and on mobile.
-edit I have 155k miles, has thrown the code since 110k. If you plan on doing oxygen sensors do then while you’re there.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So it's a space for the 02 sensor huh? Ok cool. I did replace 3 of the 4 sensors a year ago when I was encountering the same code. My dad did change out the easiest of the 4 sensors. The one on the top side of bank 2. So all 4 sensors are not original and I suppose could be bad, but this was why I think it's time to do the cats rather then the sensors. Do you have a link to these spacers and or pictures of them on ur truck?
 

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From what I understand P0420 can be a lot of different things, usually a combination of several under performing systems culminating in a “catalyst below efficiency” reading. I’ve also read that this particular sensor is not placed in the best location thus causing the frequency of this code to be unusually common. I just got home so the engine is hot, this is the best picture I could get at the moment. Please ignore the orange cable, that was the old sensor, and a very long evening. I’ll post a link to the parts shortly
Edit - Dorman 18MM Spark Plug Non-Fouler
You only do this on the post car sensors. Do not do it on the precat! Drill out one spacer to 1/2inch and screw it’s male end into the others female end. Screw this pair into the downstream port on the cat, and then screw in the oxygen sensor into the new extended opening. This effectively limits the amount of exhaust the sensor gets, causing it to read that you’re driving a Prius. Any other questions or if I need to clarify let me know.
396608
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well just got me two boxes of those 18mm Spacers :) I will try and get them on next weekend. Thanks for the Idea. Now I just need to mess with my airbag light on the dash, it seems to be coming on due to a bad driver side seat belt buckle contact.
 

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No, I had bought spacers for both cats however doing the bank associated with the P0420 code resolved the issue. I stated in an earlier post that there is a theorized design flaw in the proximity of this particular sensor, however I cannot validate that idea. If you had P0430 then the other bank should be done. I’ve put roughly 1500 miles on the spacer job and all systems are still showing normal in HDS as well as system readiness is complete.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So I was driving the truck Friday to a few stores and I had last week filled the truck with 93 octane gas and dumped a bottle of CataClean or what ever its called in the tank. Not exactly the instructions on the bottle but was what I did. The check engine light turned off on its own. Who knows how long that will last but I will hold onto the Spacers till I need to put them in.
 

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Are you trying to pass inspection? Your system readiness probably isn’t ready yet. You can determine it by the check engine light when you put the key in the ignition and turn it to accessory on but not started. There’s a flash sequence you’ll want to look up. Mine clicked on and off for a long time until it just stayed on.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I had pulled the battery terminals and started driving the truck and the CEL light came on at like 55miles, its at like 120miles not and I noticed it turn off a little after 100 miles. Inspection is not till Jan 2020 so not exactly trying to pass inspection just yet. But will need to in the next few months. lol
 
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