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I bought a 2006 Ridgeline a few months ago. It has 184,000 but had all the service records as he had always taken it to the same dealership. You could tell the last few services he declined repairs as he was trading it in. I was able to repair all the problems thanks to the help of this forum. I'll link to everything I used. I was an ASE certified Mechanic but haven't turned a wrench in a dealer in 20 years. I can't post links in this thread since I'm new. But once that is lifted I come back and add them.

1.) Timing Belt:
This job wasn't bad at all but found that my engine mount was completely rotted out. Quick trip to the stealership. Expensive bastard but, what do you do? I did use a wedge to hold the back cam shaft as it kept wanting to jump a tooth. The belt looked good but the tensioner was at the end of its travel. Goes to show that a quick look at the timing belt is not going to tell you what condition it is in.

2.) Suspension: The front suspension had a lot of clunks and rattles. A quick inspection revealed that the lower control arm bushings and sway bar bushings were cracked and rotted. I ordered new lower control arms as the extra money was worth it in the amount of time it would take me to drive out the ball joints and bushings then press in new. I wish I had read this post prior to doing them! I stupidly popped the lower control arm in the mounts and then into the steering knuckle. No amount of percussive persuasion or creative swearing would get the rear bolt to line up. Since I was replacing the struts anyways, I ended up taking the strut loose so I could get the arm up high enough to start the bolt. Hours of swearing/pleading/and crying wasted. The second side was easy when I followed the post! 20 minutes and a beer later, I was done. The strut spring rubber mounts were completely rotted through. I ordered a strut rebuild kit with some strut bearing grease. They went together wonderfully. While I was here, I inspected the brakes. The brake slides were seized and rubber seals on them were rotted out. Ordered a brake hardware kit, cleaned the slide holes out, a little anti seize and 15 minutes later, brakes move freely. So final tally: Lower control arms, sway bar links, struts and strut hardware kit. There are no more squeaks rattles or clunks in the front end.

3.) Valve lash adjust: I bought the upper gasket kit for the intake plus the valve cover gasket and seal set. This wasn't bad at all. Make sure you get the angled feeler gauges as you'll need it to get under the adjusters. The rear bank was perfectly clean and pretty. The front bank had a lot of carbon built up in it and 2 of the spark plug seals leaking. There was very little clearance on the exhaust valves! I suspected that one or more of the valves had burnt their seal. I ordered valve seals. I have a valve tool that hooks to the cam, you put about 15 psi of compressed air into the cylinder you're working on and pop the valve spring and keepers with the tool. Three of the exhaust valve seals were cracked and very brittle. All the intake valve seals looked good but I replaced them anyways. Once again an afternoon job turned into much more. Once I was done, the truck runs much better at cold start up and definitely gained power back when warmed up.

4.) Full fluid service: Just so I could bring the truck back to a point where I knew everything was good and switch it from the Penz the stealership uses to Mobile 1. The trans fluid looked nice and Red and didn't smell burnt. NOTE HERE: I did the trans service with the ZF1 trans fluid. After a couple months of driving the truck I noticed a very harsh vibration when the torque converter would lock up at 35 to 45 mph. Suddenly my fluid was looking brown and stunk! This is bad! I researched transmission fluid for the truck There are multiple post here about aftermarket fluid, the difference between honda fluid and what not. I used to work in a petroleum lab and in my opinion you can't go wrong with OEM fluids. Looking back at the service history, I found where the trans had been serviced with Honda DW-1 fluid. I was able to get a case for $70 some odd from Rock Auto and did the flush. The first drain fill, drive and drain the fluid came out pretty dirty. The second it came out pretty clean and the last it was perfect. The torque converter lockup vibration went away immediately and I've noticed that the trans now shifts much more smoothly.

More to follow: I'm about half way through all the I've done to rehab this poor basket case of a truck!
 

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2019 Sport Lunar Silver
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If you haven't put the intake back on yet, clean out the EGR port. We've had some drivability issues from that system.
Also, it would be a good time to throw a T-stat in there.
Hope you replaced the oil dampened T-belt tensioner.
O.E fluids, YES!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I cleaned the EGR it was pretty gummed up. Yes, I got the whole timing kit, tensioner, idlers, and water pump. I also replaced the thermostat while the coolant was drained.
 

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2009 Ridgeline RTL (with nav) in Bali Blue Pearl
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If it has not been done already, you may want to replace your radiator to avoid what we call the "Strawberry Milkshake Of Death (SMOD)," especially with your age of Ridgeline. I had to replace mine a few months ago and it was built in late 2008, so...
 
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