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Discussion Starter #1
Picked up my '06 RTL with 101k miles from the original owner this week and I'm putting together my PM plans based on the maintenance records that came with the vehicle. The truck was very well maintained mostly by the dealership by the previous owner, the biggest gap seems to be that there is no record of the transfer case ever being changed out. Here is a summary;

Fluid / Periodicity / Mileage last performed / Date last performed / Miles till due

Engine Oil / 7,500 / 101,100 / Jun 2016 / 7,363
Rear Diff / 15,000 / 90,081 / Dec 2014 / 3,831
Transmission / 45,000 / 64,284 / Feb 2012 / 8,034
Transfer Case / 45,000 / - / - / NOW
Brake Fluid / 45,000 / 74,165 / Apr 2013 / 17,915
Coolant / 120,000 / 75,222 / Jun 2013 / 93,972

This is my first Honda so I'm not all that familiar w/ the Maintenance Minder System so I have a couple questions. Is the MM just based on raw miles or is there some qualitative analysis of the fluids happening in the machine? Does time ever trip MM or is it only miles?

I was pretty gung ho to do a full set of fluid changes on the vehicle but between the maintenance history and the relatively clean bill of health I got from the Honda inspection I'm now wondering if I should just A. wait for MM to tell me what to do, or B. guide off the chart above... Engine oil is a pretty easy one as it was done earlier this month. The rest, while mileage wouldn't dictate a change there has been some significant time lapse and you'll notice that the car hasn't gotten that much mileage since the '12-'13 timeframe - <10k/year.

I know the radiator replacement is a common recommendation and I've got that in the back of my head. The Timing belt/water pump job was done at 75K miles in 2013 so I figure I'm good on that for now.

Thanks in advance!
 

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There is a lot of info on the MM on the site and an explanation can be found at many places online and in the OM.

Here is a link to it at a Honda dealership

Maintenance Minder Information

Doing them all now would save time and you would know for sure they were all done.

I bought my '06 a few months ago and planned to do that but all I've done so far is the radiator. MY MM is telling me it's time for the timing belt etc. now.
 

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Thanks Flyboy,

Reading up at that link has me a bit more concerned about the MM's effectiveness in my situation... I have no idea whether it is in sync with the maintenance that has occurred even though I have excellent records. Stands to reason it should be close since so much of the maintenance was done at a Honda Dealer but is it possible to know from reading a code or having the dealer scan it? I had a thorough pre-purchase inspection done at the same dealer that sold/maintained it so I'm going to reach out to the service rep and see what he thinks. The fluids are cheap and easy enough, I'm more interested in whether a future code for TB/WP would be valid given that I have records of it being swapped at 75K miles.

MM seems like a clever system for most people but it ties you pretty close to the dealer (again, well played Honda).

Tony
 

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The MM has been pretty effective for a lot of people. Where you might want to change fluids more often is if you live in a very hot or very cold part of the country, or if you tow a lot.

With regards to the transfer case, a lot of dealerships have been under the impression that the fluid is shared with the transmission (which it was on the very early Pilots), and so haven't been recommending to their customers that they get it changed. Just get it changed now, and keep an eye on it. {shrug} Any damage has been done by now, so this is pretty much all you can do.

The other things you need to get looked at is sparkplug tightness -- especially #4 and #5. At 100k, you're due to change them anyway. Go with NGK or Denso. And also strongly consider changing the radiator. There's a fitting that corrodes and allows coolant to mix with the transmission fluid, something you definitely don't want happening.

Chip H.
 
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The maintance minder system is "slightly dynamic" in that it may be programmed for 7500 miles but I've only once ended up over that but there are some who have posted nearly 11,000 between OCI. My understanding is all the other "sub codes" are programmed to "pop" when they are "nearest" the next interval, such as "B16", Oil, Filter, and rear diff, which IIRC, is 15k. If at your next B1"oil change" you will be within 5k of needing to do the B6 "rear diff change" then it will throw that code up too. But any of those codes are inadvertently cleared, the MM system will not know if they have been completed or not. There is a chart for what the interval is for the all the intervals and what the "severe service interval" is, and severe service is considered towing and operating on the tempature extreme's "above 110 and below 20", IIRC. I'll have to search but I believe basically all of Canada is considered "extreme" but I'll have to do some looking to find that chart. I'll post it later unless someone beats me to it. Also since your profile provides so little info, it will be difficult to provide any regional specific data, and you may or may not know where this RL has resided for it's existence.

If it was me I'd do it all as a base line, and other items to consider are PS Fluid, there is no schedule for it, but those who reside in cold climates have reported "squealing" during cold snaps which is resolved with that. Air filters, both engine and cabin air filter are quite simple and will provide you an aspect of "self" inspection, and brake fluid is "hygroscopic", the scheduled interval is "every 3 years" but if I lived somewhere "humid" I'd do it every 2-2.5, I couldn't do mine at exactly 3 last time so I pushed it out an extra 6 months, and did it when it was convenient for me.

Lastly, I'd pair some of them up, Oil & Transfer case, rear diff maybe with brake fluid & brake slider pin's inspection (seem to rust and seize where road salt is used) & lube, Radiator, Coolant and ATF, you'll lose some of each while changing the radiator, and there is no guarantee, more than a gallon was replaced with the timing belt. When I did mine last year since I was "doing it early" and I had recently changed the radiator out, the dealer offered to "capture and reuse" my coolant. I provided about a gallon and a half and requested it be changed again, it was because the pre timing belt and post timing belt water percent changed when doing fluid testing.

Additionally the '06 transmission had Honda Z-1 which is believed to be a "semi synthetic" fluid, the replacement is Honda DW-1, which is believed to be a full synthetic. It takes 5 changes to get to 90%+ DW-1, but IIRC it became available in 2010 or 2011, so you may already have some in the transmission, but you may want to change it more than once. Several, myself included noticed transmission shift changes after the first 2 changes, but I ultimately did 5 to do the fluid change over. The chart below was provided by a member in another thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Chip - Thanks! I've got NGK plugs in my amazon cart right now... and your note about the trans/transfer case would explain why there's no record.

Carsmack - The vehicle appears to have lived primarily in PA and OH and I'm now in Northern VA/Mid-Atlantic. I did the air filters last night, both pretty dirty. You make a good argument for just doing the fluids to re-baseline. And that gets me out of wondering about the MM... I guess that just puts me into a acknowledge and clear posture when they come up. So as far as scheduling I guess I could go w/;

1. Transfer - Transfer hasn't been recorded as complete ever so just do it.
2. Rear Diff - Decent history but it's easy and stand alone so do it next
3. Radiator/Coolant/Transmission - Bigger job, need to read up on it and maybe get some local help. The multi change trans flush could be a longer term project. Did you do your 5 changes one after another or wait some time in between?
4. Brakes - Already at 3 years 2 months, so try to get to it by the end of the summer.
5. Pwr Steering - In the fall before it gets cold.

Oil change I can give at least 5K or keep an eye on the MM which is currently showing 100%.

Thanks for the great feedback!

Tony
 

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I did the first two transmission fluid changes within a few days, I drove maybe 25 miles between, was sure to cycle the transmission thru all gear positions and actually backed up from my house to the end of the cul-de-sac, maybe 100 yards. After the first two I would drive about a week then change when convenient. There are several threads on all of the above the search above is helpful, looks like a magnifying glass or says "search" in the button upper right side. Rear Diff and Transfer, I have small cheap fluid pumps from Harbor Freight and keep them in ziploc bags with labels.

Radiator is not a difficult job, maybe 4 hrs if you haven't done it, I ended up doing it twice in 18 months, so the second was maybe 2.5hrs, and I changed all the hoses primary hoses (the ones I had to touch) to remove and replace the radiator. Radiator replacement is well documented in the radiator threads below, although that list is not complete. I've saved alot of other threads (on maintenance) and I can PM them to you if your not finding what your looking for.

Since you have an idea on the brakes, and where your RL has lived, inspect the slider pins while changing the fluid, many reports on them seizing from rust and lack of brake lube, also the stainless hardware where the pads ride seem to "build up" brake pad residue. So just allow enough time to check them out. Some members clean and lube the brakes every tire rotation, YMMV

Here are most of the related Radiator and Transmission threads if you haven't found them all.

Happy Reading & Good luck

Radiator Failure @ Cooler Lines

Best Radiator Replacement

Pictures of Corroded/Rusted Radiator Fittings

Radiator Fail on 2006

UOA on ATF

Anatomy of OEM Denso Radiator

Poll(Never Posted) on Radiator/Trans Cooler Solution

Recent Radiator/Transmission SMOD!!!

Radiator comparison: Denso/Spectra/OSC

YouTube Video of Leaking Spectra...
 

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Carsmack - thanks for the linkage, I'm pouring over all the threads and how-to's. Aside from the radiator and hoses is there anything else preventative I can do while the radiators out? Front engine mount would be pretty accessible, mine looks ok but they are pretty cheap. Might be better off not messing with it though.

Tony
 

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I checked and torque to spec the front spark plugs, and I checked the front upper A/F Sensor (O2 Sensor). I did also change the ATF hoses which I had to open.

But the more you start touching, the more your spending, and the more that can go wrong.
 

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So I got the RL in to an independent mechanic I used to use regularly, they are primarily a taxi cab repair shop in downtown Washington DC. The head guy is great, and just finished replacing the rear wheel bearings on my 2010 Rav4 so when I picked it up I brought in the RL for a once over and to bounce the list of notional repairs I was contemplating and here is what I got;

- Suspension lift - he's dead set against it, won't do it. Basically he leans on the philosophy of staying stock, staying OEM to the extent possible. Not a big surprise I figured it was worth the try. He did scare me a bit with a couple of tales of badly done lifts where the vehicle was never able to be aligned correctly... I think this is avoidable by using a shop that knows what they're doing (need to find one).

- Compliance Bushings/Front lower control rods - The Honda Dealer I had a pre-purchase inspection on highlighted this and while my guy did find and point out to me (we put the RL up on his lift) slight cracking in the passenger side bushing closest to the frame he did a pretty thorough inspection of all four wheels and at least in his opinion recommended not doing any immediate work.

- Passenger side Motor Mount - this was cool, he got in the car and w/ the brake on put the car in gear and gave it gas to show me how the engine bucks against the mounts. After trading places a couple times we determined that the passenger side mount was indeed not optimal but at least in his opinion also not necessary to replace right now. His words were that a taxi would ride 3 years before changing that mount...

- Preventative Radiator Replacement - boy was this a conversation, he's an older gentleman in his 60's and he had a bit of trouble wrapping his head around the source for my concern not being a TSB, Recall or otherwise but I showed him pictures of the corroded connections on other folks RL's (from this forum) and he got the point. He was onboard with replacing the radiator but this is where his OEM philosophy comes in and he strongly recommended going and buying a replacement direct from Honda... his point being many personal examples of aftermarket radiators ending up w/ pinhole leaks on the fins for one reason or the other and having no warranty coverage. My question is doesn't the Honda OEM replacement (denso) have the same issue that the original radiator has? Price aside, is the Honda replacement a 'FIX' for the bimetalic corrosion that casuses the transmission issues?

I owe this guy a beer (or more) for the hour he spent going over the vehicle with me in his shop and I'll probably have him do my spark plugs at least, and include the radiator potentially. The whole conversation reminded me how little i really know about the business end of wrenching on a vehicle. I'm still planning to do my fluids as I've discussed earlier in this thread and the 'recon' I got w/ the RL on the lift today was quite valuable for that. Anyway, hoping to hear thoughts on the Honda OEM radiator from folks. I'll probably swing by a dealer tomorrow to ask them about it but from what I've read on this forum it seems like Honda and their dealers have/are turning a blind eye to this issue.
 

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I saw that you don't have to worry about TB, etc. But you SHOULD have him check all of the plugs to see that they are tight (proper torque... not over tight either).
And you should verify that they changed the plugs when they did the TB (I would guess they did). If not, you should just get new plugs put in.

:wink:
 
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