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Discussion Starter #1
OK- I just finished my installation of a new HU. I kept all stock speakers including the factory sub. And all is now working!

This is the list of everything I bought.
Boss CE200m monoblock amp
Metra dash kit 95-7870T
Axxess ASWC steering wheel control adapter
Pioneer AVIC 5100NEX
Metra 40-HD10 Antenna adapter
Metra 70-1721 harness
BW® 2.4G Wireless Color Video Transmitter and Receiver
Esky® EC170-09 backup camera IR license plate frame

It was a hot steamy day here but it is in and working. I read a ton of posts and found everything I needed here. Since this has been written up many times, I will just show a few highlights and learnings.

The dash kit matched perfectly. I picked the tan/taupe one for my beige interior. Everything fit well.

I presoldered and shrink wrapped the Pioneer harness to the Metra harness.



Everything went well, but during testing I found that the antenna was not working well, so I looked and the metra harness has an antenna power wire, but my factory harness does not have the matching wire. So I moved the wire over to the pioneer antenna power wire and it works great.

The wire tap for the backup light was the hardest, just because there are so many wires. You will find a post describing it here. http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36652 I ended up tapping the wire from the bundle that runs towards the back under the door sill cover. It was MUCH easier to open up the bundle and test wires until you find the all green wire that switches when you put it in reverse.

The amp was a big question for me. I picked the boss amp listed above. I mounted it next to the glove box so I could get to it easily for changing a fuse or adjust the settings. It works perfectly and sounds good to me. It only has a 5amp fuse, so it is not a powerhouse, but it does exactly what is needed to maintain the stock subwoofer with this HU. Plenty of power for the stock sub. Note that where I mounted it interferes with the glove box stop, so I will have to move it a little towards the center of the truck. I will take a picture of the mounting tomorrow. I just cut the spade off one side of a crimp connector and stuck them in the factory connector. I then taped it all up.

The amp power is teed into the HU power (red wire) since both together are only fused at 15amps and the radio fuse is 20 amps.



There is a big pile of wires in there!!! I cleaned it all up after testing, but man, that is a lot of wire.



So here it is installed. I put the GPS antenna on top of an air duct inside the dash and it works great.



Thanks to all who posted before me with great info and to those that helped me specifically!
 

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OK- I just finished my installation of a new HU. I kept all stock speakers including the factory sub. And all is now working!

This is the list of everything I bought.
Boss CE200m monoblock amp
Metra dash kit 95-7870T
Axxess ASWC steering wheel control adapter
Pioneer AVIC 5100NEX
Metra 40-HD10 Antenna adapter
Metra 70-1721 harness
BW® 2.4G Wireless Color Video Transmitter and Receiver
Esky® EC170-09 backup camera IR license plate frame

It was a hot steamy day here but it is in and working. I read a ton of posts and found everything I needed here. Since this has been written up many times, I will just show a few highlights and learnings.

The dash kit matched perfectly. I picked the tan/taupe one for my beige interior. Everything fit well.

I presoldered and shrink wrapped the Pioneer harness to the Metra harness.



Everything went well, but during testing I found that the antenna was not working well, so I looked and the metra harness has an antenna power wire, but my factory harness does not have the matching wire. So I moved the wire over to the pioneer antenna power wire and it works great.

The wire tap for the backup light was the hardest, just because there are so many wires. You will find a post describing it here. http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36652 I ended up tapping the wire from the bundle that runs towards the back under the door sill cover. It was MUCH easier to open up the bundle and test wires until you find the all green wire that switches when you put it in reverse.

The amp was a big question for me. I picked the boss amp listed above. I mounted it next to the glove box so I could get to it easily for changing a fuse or adjust the settings. It works perfectly and sounds good to me. It only has a 5amp fuse, so it is not a powerhouse, but it does exactly what is needed to maintain the stock subwoofer with this HU. Plenty of power for the stock sub. Note that where I mounted it interferes with the glove box stop, so I will have to move it a little towards the center of the truck. I will take a picture of the mounting tomorrow. I just cut the spade off one side of a crimp connector and stuck them in the factory connector. I then taped it all up.

The amp power is teed into the HU power (red wire) since both together are only fused at 15amps and the radio fuse is 20 amps.



There is a big pile of wires in there!!! I cleaned it all up after testing, but man, that is a lot of wire.



So here it is installed. I put the GPS antenna on top of an air duct inside the dash and it works great.



Thanks to all who posted before me with great info and to those that helped me specifically!
Congratulations soccerdad dude! You are in for miles of driving and navigation pleasure. Nice work on your wire joinery.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
So here is a picture of the amp mounted.



This thing is really small. I wanted to have it in an accessable place so I could get at the fuse if needed and to make adjustments. I strapped it to the metal dash brace. The problem is the left side glove box stop bumper hits it. So I just left that side out. It is not an issue for me and it does not sag when open. I only keep manuals and paperwork in there. The stop does nothing while it is closed anyway. If I did it again, I might find another spot, but this works well for me and I do not want to redo the cable lengths.

The HU is really cool. And I think it sounds way better than stock with the built in EQ. This one has Apple Carplay. So far, I am not impressed with it. Hopefully a bunch of carplay apps come out soon. The only thing I think it is good for now is to be able to tell siri you want to go somewhere and she sets up the map. The pioneer GPS is more old school where you need to put in addresses. It does have some location things like food, but not much. Also, for carplay, you have to plug in your phone and set it to USB input instead of Bluetooth. Well this stops some features when you do this. So I may only use carplay sometimes. But hey, it all is WAY better than the stock 2008 non GPS HU!

A final note on this HU. You do not need a parking brake connection or bypass module. There is a "hidden" feature that lets you turn off the interlock. So you can just install it, do the button pushes to turn it into special mode, and you can use the video screen whenever you want. The thing also lets you play videos in the back (if you have screens) and listen to music up front. The one I got does not have a remote for the back seat users, so time will tell if that feature gets used much.

The license plate camera works fine on wireless so far. Odd to get used to since I have not had one before, but it will be nice when I backup to hook up my trailer.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I just added a set of tweeters that I got from ohsix . Sounds better on most stations with the new speakers. Not sure about adding any others. I am sure they are better, but my ears are getting old and miss lots of range anyway. I may add some others later. I will live with these for a while. Regardless, I am not looking to put in a bigger amp so they would have to be plug and play. The thing sounds pretty good to me now. I am still working on the best EQ settings. Seems like the local rock station has MUCH lower quality than the other stations. I noticed with the old HU that the signal for that station was not great, but the sound difference was never that noticeable. The rock station sounds tinny and the others have a much richer sound. But I don't think that is a speaker issue.
 

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Also how is this amp holding up. I literally and about to copy your setup with a non GPS head unit. I will just use my phone. I have a 2006 and I only plan to keep it another year or so. It has 140K miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I think the gain is turned down some on my amp so the smaller one should work with the stock Sub. But the thing is so cheap that I am not sure I would even bother testing the smaller one. Unless it is actually really smaller. The amp is holding up great so far.
 

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Thanks for the great write-up! The adapter and reverse camera you got seems super inexpensive! How are they working out for you?
Also, would you mind elaborating on the process of connecting you HU to the amp, to the door speakers? I was weighing this vs just running the HU to power the door speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the great write-up! The adapter and reverse camera you got seems super inexpensive! How are they working out for you?
Also, would you mind elaborating on the process of connecting you HU to the amp, to the door speakers? I was weighing this vs just running the HU to power the door speakers.
The backup camera works fine. I do get a lot of static sometimes though. I am planning on running the long video cable up to the HU and get rid of the wireless when I get time. Honestly, I don't look at the camera much. I really use it when hooking up to my trailer.

The amp is only used for the sub. The door speakers are connected directly to the HU using the wiring harness. (no extra amp for anything except the sub)
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I have had a few PMs on hooking up the amp. So here is the info for everyone.

The output to the sub connects to these wires:

Connector C (8 pin) Without NAV/6CD type

1 ----- Not used
2 ----- Not used
3 ----- Not used
4 YEL/BLK Subwoofer (RR WOOFER+)
5 LT GRN/RED Subwoofer (RR WOOFER-)
6 ----- Not used
7 ----- Not used
8 ----- Not used

Good wiring info came from this thread: http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?p=488641#post488641
The amp gets the signal from the low level outputs (RCA) from the HU. You do have to turn the sub output on in the HU config. So you will need a pair of RCA cables to go to the amp. The amp power tees into the power that feeds the HU. Together the HU and Amp do not go over the 15 amp fuse that protects that circuit. The amp also has a remote turn-on input. I wired that to the HU's blue/wt remote systems control wire to turn it on and off when you start the truck.

Hope this helps!
 

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I've started my upgrade but have a question. Should I ground the HU and the Amp to the same location or use 2 different metal chassis points?

Also, the ground point for the stock HU is really close just behind the glove box (G404), can I use this and just wire my ground through the HU harness or is it best to just ignore that and run my own new ground for the new HU, idatalink and micro bypass? I've seen installs here on the ROC both ways and both seem to work but I don't want to run into problems later.
 

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I have bypassed factory ground, as members stated, Its better to not use factory ground..
Isolates noise if any from static..
There are plenty of ground points behind head unit and glove box..
All my grounds from HU, Relay, and aswc are all on a bar next to airbag in upper right corner in head unit housing..
Its all preference
 
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