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Discussion Starter #1
Did some searching but mostly turned up info from earlier models.

Anyhow, have a 2010 RTS with ~17K miles on it. No wrecks, etc. Recently, I began to notice a clunk/pop from the front end when turning. Sounds like a CV type of sound but with only 17K on it, I have a hard time believing a joint would be bad.

Anyone else experience this problem with an 09+ Ridgeline? Has to be some sort of production issue since the truck has such low mileage and never really been driven "hard" offroad or something.
 

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Did you buy it new, with only 17,000 on a 2010 thats pretty low. Turning right, left or both. Have you been off roading (you bad,bad boy) or hit a curb. Any sign of anything under there as in oil or grease. At only 17,000 miles its odd but anything can happen. Problem is once figured out was it a bad part or is there something else going on that might take that part out again after another 17,000 miles crap shes just a baby.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Bone stock suspension and yes, I bought it new. No off-roading or anything what I'd call "abuse".

Did not see any oil/grease upon first inspection.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Even though I'm under 36K miles, it's 5 years old at this point--so yeah, warranty is more than likely not going to happen.

I checked the CV's and they look good. Hard to tell about the swaybar links but will check those again (I doubt it since it doesn't happen on bumps when going straight). It only happens when turning the wheel though and speed doesn't seem to matter. At this point not sure if suspension or drivetrain.

Almost reminds me of a FWD car with a clutch-type front diff and the chatter those make when turning.

I was hoping this was a well-known problem so that I wouldn't have to start digging through front end components.
 

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I have an 09 with same issue for years now, does it only turning left on bumps/rough roads coming from the passenger side strut area. I bought it new and started to do it at about 80K miles. Replaced both sway bar links and sway bar bushing, no better. From all the people that have the noise i've narrowed it down to the front passenger strut bearing. A few on here had the bearing replaced and fixed it, others had the whole strut assembly but still had noise. I've been driving with the clunk for 2+ years now. Doesn't effect anything, just noise like a tennis ball in the wheel well bouncing around. I'm at 134K now so was planning to put in new struts this winter and replace all the strut bearings while i'm in there. Hopefully that does it, otherwise I've just accepted it as a design flaw in this truck since many have had this happen.
 

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Strut Tower Bearing.
 

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Strut Tower Bearing.
Yes . . .

The sway bar end links and bushings are the logical place to start and if no fixy then the tower bearing would be next in line.

CV joints typically will make a clicking noise during a sharp turn when they are bad.

You can also examine the control arm bushings, particularly the compliance bushing.

My money is on the strut tower though . . . .

PS: I just reread your post and you haven't replaced your links yet. That would be my first area to examine / r&r as the upper point where the links attach pivots when the wheel is turned. Doubt its the bushings since it only happens on turns but they are pretty easy to do and cheap parts.
 

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Is the strut tower bearing called the damper mounting bearing in this exploded view of the front strut?



I notice there is no damper mounting bearing on the rear strut assembly.



Is the damper mounting bearing normally replaced when a new strut assembly is installed?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If it is the strut tower bearing, just another reason why I absolutely hate struts.

And yes, the rear suspension doesn't have that because the rear is a multi-link/trailing arm design.

I don't know why this bearing would be shot @ 17K though. Nothing should be worn out at 17K, period.
 

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The reason the rear "strut" doesn't have a top bearing assembly is because it doesn't rotate. The front strut rotates as you turn the steering wheel left and right, and that bearing plate is the provision to allow that to happen.
 

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That makes sense. Thanks.
 

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Sooo that might be the clunk but what about the pop. The wrist bones connected to the arm bone and things do transfer after time, you have to replace more or deal with more problems down the line, if not dealt with sooner. So the pop could be another thing from the clunk if that makes sense.. Whos on first.:act024:
 

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Update, replaced the strut bearing in the right front strut this weekend. Everything looked fine when disassembled but still put in a new strut bearing. Well I still have the clunk sound on the right front while turning left. I did notice that there seems to be play in the axle half shalfs in its support bearing. Where the half shaft meets the axle out to he wheel, there is a mount with a single bearing that supports the connection. I have a slight amount of play, not sure if this was like that since day 1 or that is part of the noise? Also saw a thread on here mentioning their Pilot was going to have the steering rack assembly bushings replaced as their mechanic thinks the clunk while turning on their Pilot is ths busings.
 

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Have you done your sway bar bushings and end links yet???????????

Note that when you turn, the swaybar endlinks pivot. Cheap and relatively easy to do these.

FYI, my 06 Ridge clunked over rough roads (different than your conditions for clunk) from early on. 8 years later I finally changed the links and bushings (it was a bad bushing) and no more clunking.
 

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Yep did both sway links and bushings last year. Didn't help.
 

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Ball Joints???? Not easy to check w/o jacking up & using a long bar under the tire. You WON'T be able to check "by hand" or visually.
 

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I had a similar clunk when turning left and going over the curb to my driveway. The vehicle was in for an oil leak which was a blown seal while apart they found two engine mounts were cracked. I had them replaced and the noise has gone away since. Though I had this done at 205K not 17K. Maybe give them a looking over and see if the rubber is cracked on the mounts.
 

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Interesting - just posted what sounds like the same issue

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=124930

Had it back in on friday, still no dice finding the source. The checked everything they could without tearing stuff apart. Said everything was tight, normal and there is no safety concern. Drive it till it gets worse so we may have a better idea of finding the source.

Not thrilled with having to let it get worse, but not sure what I could do at this point....
 
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