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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought my 2011 ridgeline, and it ran like a top for 6 months, there was a rattle os I looked into it and replaced my timing belt actuator, which fixed that problem for a week. and I went to start it up to go to work and it's stuck on limp mode. My scanner won't read codes, it says "link error". I replaced the egr valve, that made no difference. The engine light is on but when I rev it up it starts to blink and my vtm4 light is on along with my traction control light. I have no idea what to do, it's my only means to get to work to be able to pay for any fixes, please help
 

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2010 RT - Bali Blue
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You need to change out your OB2 reader to a different one and recheck. If not, go to Advance Auto or AutoZone and get the codes read for free (or a minimal price).
It is hard to diagnose a limp mode without a code.

If you want to check something before you head out, look at the plastic pipe that connects from the airbox to the throttle body. Remove it from the vehicle and inspect it. Lots of times, there is a crack that results in false air reading between the MAP and MAF. if you have a crack, order a new one online for $15, swap it and see if it changes anything. I would still recommend getting the code checked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So I borrowed a scanner from Napa and it read,
P0108
P0118
P0353
P0354
P0304
P0305
P0306
P0300
And finally for the A/T code P0970
 

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A quick search came up with these explanations. Coils, plugs, and a vacuum leak. The last code is indicating some problems with your transmission.

P0108 is a generic OBD-II trouble code. It indicates your Honda Ridgeline's MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor's voltage reading is outside of the normal operating range. The voltage is too high. It's most commonly caused by a bad MAP sensor, wiring issue, or vacuum leak.

When the code P0118 is stored in your Honda's computer, the ECM is telling you that it is reading an engine coolant temp of -4 degrees fahrenheit or colder. Common causes of this code include: Bad engine coolant temp sensor, or ECT. ... Short in one of the wires in the sensor.

P0353 is a generic OBD2 code that indicates that ignition coil 鈥淐鈥 has an issue with the primary or secondary wiring circuits. It has the same meaning for the Honda Pilot as it would any other vehicle. It is typically caused by a bad coil pack or wiring harness issue, although there can be caused by other factors.

A P0354 code means that the ignition coil or coils are not functioning properly and that there is an electrical problem with them. The ignition coils are responsible for properly igniting the air-fuel mixture in the engine's combustion chambers.

P0304 P0305 Bad Spark Plugs鈥 Spark plugs are one of the most common causes of P0304. Take a look at the electrodes and see if they are in good shape. ... Coil Packs鈥 Coil packs rarely go bad, but when they do, they can certainly cause P0304 in your Honda Ridgeline.

Vacuum leak鈥 If your Ridgeline has a vacuum leak, it can be very difficult for it to get the right air/fuel mixture. This will cause the cylinders to misfire and it'll throw the P0306 if the leak is around that specific cylinder on the intake manifold. It's easy (and kind of fun) to chase one down.

Honda code P0300 indicates that one or more cylinders are experiencing misfires. A misfire occurs when an insufficient amount of fuel is burning in a cylinder. The efficient burning of fuel is essential to engine operation as the combustion of fuel is what provides the energy to power the engine in your Honda.

A P0970 diagnostic trouble code is very serious, because it means the ECU is not going to be able to control the amount of hydraulic pressure inside the transmission. This will lead to a number of transmission problems that include unusually harsh gear changes, slipping, transmission overheating and engine stalling.
 

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My recommendation is this
  • Clear all the codes via the scanner
  • remove and inspect the plastic air hose from the air box to the Throttle body.
  • check to ensure that your PCV hose from the valve cover is not cracked or broken
  • check to ensure that the brake booster hose is not cracked or broken
  • check to ensure that the rubber hose on the top of the manifold (by the throttle body) that goes to the air control valve, is not broken or cracked.
  • inspect wiring to all coil packs and ensure the sparkplug mating ends are not busted

  • Start the vehicle and let it warm up and idle.
  • If the check engine light comes back on, run all the codes and list them up.


It does not hurt to swap the following, if you hadn't done already
  • replace all sparkplugs with OEM quality one.
  • replace PCV valve
  • oil change
  • ATF, Rear Diff, and center transfer
  • Radiator and all cooling related items (thermostat, hoses, etc)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Also not sure if this helps but not even 30 seconds after I turn it on, the temp on the dash goes up slightly and grows when I accelerate lightly. But it doesn't go over the normal temp that it always drives at. But I don't know if it should get to temp that fast. Also both upper and lower radiator hoses are pressurized as soon as I turn it on.
All of this happened over night, it ran fine and I went to turn it on the next day and all of this at once
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
And when I turn my truck off, and turn it back on. The check engine light is on steady. But when I rev and hold it at 2k rpms for 3 seconds the light starts to blink, then the VTM4 light comes on along with traction control light. I checked all the hoses. The spark plugs don't even 3k miles on them and I got iridium plugs. I pulled the pcv valve and it was dirty, so I cleaned it let it dry and put it back in, and the same thing. The coil packs all look to be in good shape. I'm just running out of money and options. I don't want to pay a dealership to play the guessing game either.
 

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To me, a lot of the codes do have a vacuum leak as a symptom. You can do a smoke down test to see where the leak is and address it.

Prior to changing sensors, unclip them, clean the contacts, apply dielectric grease and reinstall.

Prior to doing anything, you MUST clear the codes and let the computer reset and pop up any codes.
 

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Also not sure if this helps but not even 30 seconds after I turn it on, the temp on the dash goes up slightly and grows when I accelerate lightly. But it doesn't go over the normal temp that it always drives at. But I don't know if it should get to temp that fast. Also both upper and lower radiator hoses are pressurized as soon as I turn it on.
All of this happened over night, it ran fine and I went to turn it on the next day and all of this at once
A fluctuating temp gauge can be caused by several things but probably the least expensive thing to check would be the thermostat possibly stuck in the closed position. Is the cooling fan working properly. Another idea is a failing water pump.
 
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