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Interesting. Dealer did mine under warranty but all interesting information.
Mine was outside warranty. Honda acted like they had never even heard of such an event as the camera failing because of a crappy harness linkage. I might as well have told them an alien was riding in the trunk without permission.
 

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Yep, typical dealer response. They must train them to do that.

On my 17' RTL (delivered 10/17) I have cut the original harness wire tires that restricted the harness and loom movement inside the area of the back tail light. That appears to allow movement of the wiring over a longer section which then doesn't restrict it as much since Honda wire tires it down too much IMO. This has ensured long life to the wires in my usage of the tailgate so far. Just checked the wires last week or so. All good still now. It's a good fix IMO.
 

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Took me 6 weeks to get an appointment at the dealer. When I told the service rep my issue (tailgate cut my rear camera harness) she looked at me like I was crazy, and said "I don't see how that's possible." They wanted $160 just to look at it. I told her I already repaired it myself, I just wanted to see how they were addressing it, since they couldn't tell me that when I called to make the appointment. Her response was "well, if you already fixed it yourself, what do you want us to do?"

I explained it was a temporary fix to a larger issue with these model years, and I'd wait for the recall--then I drove home.

They also wanted $160 to pull the codes for my on-again, off-again "Emissions System Problem" warning that I've been dealing with for two years (it's never on when I'm at the dealer, and the code is never saved in the system), but that's a post for another thread.
 

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Took me 6 weeks to get an appointment at the dealer. When I told the service rep my issue (tailgate cut my rear camera harness) she looked at me like I was crazy, and said "I don't see how that's possible." They wanted $160 just to look at it. I told her I already repaired it myself, I just wanted to see how they were addressing it, since they couldn't tell me that when I called to make the appointment. Her response was "well, if you already fixed it yourself, what do you want us to do?"

I explained it was a temporary fix to a larger issue with these model years, and I'd wait for the recall--then I drove home.

They also wanted $160 to pull the codes for my on-again, off-again "Emissions System Problem" warning that I've been dealing with for two years (it's never on when I'm at the dealer, and the code is never saved in the system), but that's a post for another thread.
What dealer is this?
They are all well versed on that failing harness, no matter what they tell you.
 

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New harness installed!
Working perfectly and looks great.

Note: Honda and that tricky two gray wire thing on the camera. One seemed to go to ground (-), the other I believe is for bit switching for the camera (don't really understand that one).
  • But if you cut the OEM harness near the taillight, make sure to trace and mark those gray wires correctly. If you get them mixed up the camera will not activate when you put the truck reverse.
  • It will not do any damage if you mix these two (gray wires) up with each other, Just make sure that you don't send any voltage to them.

Okay, now for the good stuff!

1: Took the three Philips head screws out of the top tailgate trim and slid the trim (right twords the passenger side to pop it off without breaking those little plastic tabs. (Btw) dealer broke 6 of mine when they looked at it, they are giving me new ones.

Photo:
View attachment 424065

2: Took the top cover off by removing the seven torques bolts out, (4 on top, 3 on the edge under the trim). Once that was done the top came right off.
Note: To remove the clips from the hole, just twist them 30 degrees and the should come out easily.

Don't force them, they will break.
View attachment 424074


Photo:
View attachment 424066
View attachment 424068

3: This is where I made the mistake of not labeling my gray wires. Cut the harness and started the removal process.

Photo:
View attachment 424067
View attachment 424078

View attachment 424076


4: Ran the new harness and soldered the wires to the existing camera connector inside the tailgate, and wired up the new 6 pin connector behind the taillight.
* I want to get a smaller connector lol. (Future me's problem)

View attachment 424079


Once it was all connected, I tested the camera and it was better then new!

Let me know what you think!

View attachment 424080

View attachment 424082

Also: my theory on if they were to just flip the loop it wouldn't have been an issue, gives the wire so much more room to move with the same setup.

Thanks!
I was in the wire harness business for over 40 years.
We constantly told our customers "don't install a harness in an area that flexes, but it you have to use fine-strand wire, and don't constrain the bundle anywhere near the flex point". I have seen MANY poor designs resulting in the strands fracturing inside the insulation. Sometimes there is no exterior indication that the conductor (all the strands) had separated. The six-terminal connector shown was in the WeatherPack family, originally made by Packard Electric (then Delphi), a GM subsidiary. It was a fairly reliable sealed connector, but generally replaced by smaller, better designed connectors a couple decades ago.
 

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I was in the wire harness business for over 40 years.
We constantly told our customers "don't install a harness in an area that flexes, but it you have to use fine-strand wire, and don't constrain the bundle anywhere near the flex point". I have seen MANY poor designs resulting in the strands fracturing inside the insulation. Sometimes there is no exterior indication that the conductor (all the strands) had separated. The six-terminal connector shown was in the WeatherPack family, originally made by Packard Electric (then Delphi), a GM subsidiary. It was a fairly reliable sealed connector, but generally replaced by smaller, better designed connectors a couple decades ago.
I should add, my rear camera on my 2017 RTL-E, 70K, failed a couple days ago.
 

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I can't help but think of the hundreds of millions of luxury automobiles produced from the 1950s to 1990s had dozens and sometimes hundreds of wires running between the door and vehicle before multiplex wiring become the norm. Or, the hundreds of millions of motorcycles with wiring harnesses between the handlebars and the frame. Or, telephone handset cords that used to get stretched from the kitchen to the bedroom by kids every day for years. You rarely hear of broken wires due to movement in those applications. :)
 

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I can't help but think of the hundreds of millions of luxury automobiles produced from the 1950s to 1990s had dozens and sometimes hundreds of wires running between the door and vehicle before multiplex wiring become the norm. Or, the hundreds of millions of motorcycles with wiring harnesses between the handlebars and the frame. Or, telephone handset cords that used to get stretched from the kitchen to the bedroom by kids every day for years. You rarely hear of broken wires due to movement in those applications. :)
You can probably thank "finite analyses engineering" for that.

Make the wires to minimum spec to do the job they need to do, except they forgot to account for flexing installations.

Make the newer phone cord just well enough to function for calls... any stretching would be beyond the design constraints and void the warranty as spelled out in the fine print.

Same for water heaters, HVAC units, etc., ad nauseum - this is what we get when the beancounters get to tell the engineers what is needed...

Old stuff lasted better because they overbuilt it because they didn't have abundant and inexpensive finite engineering to tell them when things would break.
 

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You can probably thank "finite analyses engineering" for that.

Make the wires to minimum spec to do the job they need to do, except they forgot to account for flexing installations.

Make the newer phone cord just well enough to function for calls... any stretching would be beyond the design constraints and void the warranty as spelled out in the fine print.

Same for water heaters, HVAC units, etc., ad nauseum - this is what we get when the beancounters get to tell the engineers what is needed...

Old stuff lasted better because they overbuilt it because they didn't have abundant and inexpensive finite engineering to tell them when things would break.
Which is why Douglas DC-3s are still flying.
 

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Took me 6 weeks to get an appointment at the dealer. When I told the service rep my issue (tailgate cut my rear camera harness) she looked at me like I was crazy, and said "I don't see how that's possible." They wanted $160 just to look at it. I told her I already repaired it myself, I just wanted to see how they were addressing it, since they couldn't tell me that when I called to make the appointment. Her response was "well, if you already fixed it yourself, what do you want us to do?"

I explained it was a temporary fix to a larger issue with these model years, and I'd wait for the recall--then I drove home.

They also wanted $160 to pull the codes for my on-again, off-again "Emissions System Problem" warning that I've been dealing with for two years (it's never on when I'm at the dealer, and the code is never saved in the system), but that's a post for another thread.
I had nearly the same experience for both the wiring harness that the tailgate cut AND the Emissions System Problem.. I had to fix the camera myself b/c I'm out of warranty (very grateful for this community) and the ESP disappears before I can get it in to the dealership. It comes and goes intermittently. I have pulled codes personally, not sure if that would be useful to you, but it reads "PO430- Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)" -very weird
 

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Have your fuel injectors been replaced yet?


Honda extended the warranty to 10 years or 150,000 miles for this issue.

I have NOT had them replaced yet. Wow, this is super helpful info to have, thank you. Was not aware of the recall. I doubt they'll do any work based on the codes I've pulled. I have to somehow get my truck in while the ESP is displayed. 🤞
 

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Thanks for the update. That now makes four broken camera wiring harnesses reported here - two 2017's and two 2018's.

Unless Honda made a running change to address this issue on vehicles manufactured beginning May 2018, I can see a recall coming for "inspect and replace or modify camera harness" since backup cameras have been mandatory since that date.
I have the same issue. Dealer wants 1700 to fix, I think I'm going to use my head and just get a external backup camera or fix it myself. Too expensive to fix. My truck doesn't have but 26800 on it but I'm out of the 3 year window... Oh well
Head Eye Human body Textile Wood



Car Vehicle Radio Automotive design Plant
 

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I have the same issue. Dealer wants 1700 to fix, I think I'm going to use my head and just get a external backup camera or fix it myself. Too expensive to fix. My truck doesn't have but 26800 on it but I'm out of the 3 year window... Oh well
View attachment 427051


View attachment 427052
Getcha some heat shrink butt connectors, like these:


Practice on a few short pieces of spare wire, then go to work on your truck. Then do the fix in post #69.
 

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As noted earlier in this thread (post #392), the rear camera harness failure is being investigated by the NHTSA on 2017 and 2018 MY RLs. Every back up camera failure needs to be reported to the NHTSA. Especially those who have 2019+ MYs with harness failures. The website link to report the defect is shown below.
 
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