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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve been a huge honda fan for years, owned 2 accords, 3 preludes and until I bought a new 2017 ridgeline black edition, i’ve never doubted my purchases. Given, my last vehicle, a 2008 Accord EXL V6 6MT, was not as crazy computerized as this one. This vehicle now has 500 miles on it, and has given me a host of problems. I was wondering if anyone else has had these issues and if they were resolved by honda? A forewarning, i am a very particular person, and when buying a 43000 dollar vehicle, i expect it to be pretty damn close to perfect.

Problem 1: Before I even left the dealership I realized the tailgate swing action was not working. It initially did when i first checked it out, but right before I left it just stopped. I would pull the handle, and it would sort of clunk a couple of times towards full retraction and nothing, wouldn’t open. The tailgate would still fold down but not swing left. Of course they were too busy to adjust it and asked me to come back the following weekend. Since I was looking for a black edition specifically I had to drive 50 miles to find a dealership with one in stock, so commuting back and forth has been pretty disappointing. About 300 of the miles i've put on it have been just back and forth from the dealership. The following weekend they made some adjustments, and it started working properly until about a week later, i couldn’t get the damn thing to open either direction. I eventually got it to open, after sort of rocking it around a bit, and since then it has worked correctly. I’m going to bring it in again next weekend to see if they can do better, but really i have nothing for them, since it technically works fine now. Has anyone else had these issues?

Problem 2: Not much of a problem but i noticed shortly after leaving the dealership that the dome light/home link unit was not seated correctly and no matter how many times i removed it and reseated it, i couldn’t get it to seat correctly. Of course when i brought it in they figured out that it may be a problem with the entire unit, so they had to order it and I had to come back after they got it in stock. Here’s hoping it gets fixed this next trip…

Problem 3: This is just an anal retentive issue of mine but the left steering wheel audio control unit makes a noticeably loud click when fast forwarding tracks (the right button) and sounds entirely different when changing volume up/down and going back a track. Basically honda says that since the button technically works they can’t do anything for me… so i went a head and ordered the unit, which runs about 60 bucks. People may think i’m crazy, but a 43K car should feel like one, and after this i’m not so sure. Has anyone else experienced this?

Problem 4: So this is the big one, after just over 500 miles I get a check engine light/emissions system problem and call the dealership, and the service manager assumes its the gas cap. I remind her that the ridgeline doesn’t have a gas cap so she asks me if i refueled the car with the engine running. I don’t know, but i’m not sure if anyone has done that in just about forever so it sounded pretty damn stupid to me. Regardless, she says they’ll look at it when i bring it in next weekend. I have driven it about 5 times for about a couple of hours since it came on and it hasn’t cleared. I also noticed that the green accent to tell you you're saving fuel stays white the entire time. I don’t know if the car is delivering power differently or i’m just crazy cautious now but it just doesn’t feel right. I took it to autozone today to get the codes looked at and when the guy plugged in the OBD2 meter, a number of previously unseen warnings started popping up on the dash. I didn’t have a chance to take note of them but i believe i saw collision mitigation system problem/some kind of towing system problem/vehicle stability problem, amongst a couple of others. After he pulled the meter he tried to plug it in to his computer and it wouldn’t download so i’m SOL there. I restarted the vehicle and none of the other errors came back, except for the emissions system problem message. Has anyone had these problems?

I actually really like the truck, but have been immensely disappointed by the issues i’ve had with it and am worried I got a lemon. I also can’t stand the “service” manager at this dealership. She acts like I’m insane for wanting my brand new car to work as advertised, and talks to me in an almost condescending tone. I’m considering just going to the local honda dealership but i don’t know if that is wise, since i bought the car elsewhere. Is anyone else in a similar boat?
 

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#1
Tailgate malfunctions were a problem with the first generation Ridgeline 11 years ago. The mechanism has been redesigned and simplified for the 2017 Ridgeline, but there have been several reports of it malfunctioning. The cause appears to be a broken plastic clip, but sometimes an adjustment is the cure.

CORRECTION: Based on photos comparing the G1 and G2 tailgate synchronizer assemblies, they appear virtually identical. It does not appear there has been any "simplification'.

#2
Sounds like a faulty/broken clip due to a manufacturing defect or bad installation. No other reports of this that I've seen.

#3
No reports of this, either, that I've seen. I'm "OCD" and anal-retentive, too. This would probably bother me as well. All my buttons sound the same and are virtually silent. Your replacement will probably be okay, too. I wouldn't pay for this myself, though. I'd show the dealer that other Ridgelines have quiet buttons and I'd demand mine sound like the others.

#4
Some members have reported their Ridgeline "goes crazy" when aftermarket devices like driving monitors and scan tools are connected to the ODB II port. You have a new vehicle under warranty - I'd let the dealer address this with the proper scan tool - not some minimum-wage employee at an auto parts store. The white Eco Assist indicator is likely a side effect of the code that is causing the CEL.

Sorry your dealer's service is unsatisfactory to you - that's neither Honda's nor your Ridgeline's fault.

There are several other issues with the 2017 Ridgeline that have been reported by other owners often enough to be significant. Hopefully, you won't have any of those. Functionally and cosmetically, mine has been "perfect" for the first 1,800 miles. There are several, minor rattles and creaks, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
#1
Tailgate malfunctions were a problem with the first generation Ridgeline 11 years ago. The mechanism has been redesigned and simplified for the 2017 Ridgeline, but there have been several reports of it malfunctioning. The cause appears to be a broken plastic clip, but sometimes an adjustment is the cure.

#2
Sounds like a faulty/broken clip due to a manufacturing defect or bad installation. No other reports of this that I've seen.

#3
No reports of this, either, that I've seen. I'm "OCD" and anal-retentive, too. This would probably bother me as well. All my buttons sound the same and are virtually silent. Your replacement will probably be okay, too. I wouldn't pay for this myself, though. I'd show the dealer that other Ridgelines have quiet buttons and I'd demand mine sound like the others.

#4
Some members have reported their Ridgeline "goes crazy" when aftermarket devices like driving monitors and scan tools are connected to the ODB II port. You have a new vehicle under warranty - I'd let the dealer address this with the proper scan tool - not some minimum-wage employee at an auto parts store. The white Eco Assist indicator is likely a side effect of the code that is causing the CEL.

Sorry your dealer's service is unsatisfactory to you - that's neither Honda's nor your Ridgeline's fault.

There are several other issues with the 2017 Ridgeline that have been reported by other owners often enough to be significant. Hopefully, you won't have any of those. Functionally and cosmetically, mine has been "perfect" for the first 1,800 miles. There are several, minor rattles and creaks, though.
I really am hoping the time the tailgate would not open either way was just a fluke, but i have a feeling after they adjusted it they either adjusted it too little or too much, regardless, it is beginning to make me believe the dealership doesn’t know what they’re doing. I am a little concerned with the risk of them them damaging trim/paint/parts the more they continue to play with it.

I have a feeling this trip will fix the dome light issue, i was glad they were on board with just replacing vice replacing smaller parts.

The button is vastly different from the rest, so much that i almost loath fast forwarding with he steering wheel knowing the sound it’s going to make… which all in all is pretty sad that i even care about it. When i head back i’ll get into another ridgeline with the service manager and if they pretend like it’s not their deal to pay for it, i’ll ask for the manager. all in all 60 bucks on a 43000 dollar car is nothing, but i feel like i’m at a domestic dealership, which is pathetic. the sad thing is, she was unwilling to order the part until they looked at it because they “didn’t want to have too many parts on their shelves.” Me telling her that I’d pay for it was the consolation so i didn’t have to make an additional trip in case they were able to “adjust it,” haha.

i certainly want the dealership to run their monitor on it, but they were booked this weekend and my job does not allow for time during the week to drive 100 miles round trip. My concern is that the “emission system problem” may make the situation with the engine even worse, plus i can almost guarantee i’ll be making a fifth trip back to them once they figure out what the problem is and order the parts. Is it not cool to go to a dealership that didn’t sell you the car, even if they are 40 miles closer?

Don’t get me wrong, I love this truck, pretty much everything about it. I’m just really disappointed it hasn’t been as clean of a purchase as i’m used to with honda. I do have a little buzz that comes from the dash (I believe the center speaker) that just adds a little more icing to the cake of dissatisfaction, but I surely will not bring that up as i don’t want to offend my “service” manager. I’ll probably figure it out myself and fix it on my own. I appreciate the response!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So getting back to my main question, if the engine seems to be running pretty much normal, do you think it is unwise to keep driving it for a few days until I can make it back to the dealership? Which is a significant drive in itself. Should I try to just go to the closer, local dealership?
 

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So getting back to my main question, if the engine seems to be running pretty much normal, do you think it is unwise to keep driving it for a few days until I can make it back to the dealership? Which is a significant drive in itself. Should I try to just go to the closer, local dealership?
I'll let you decide. If something else gets damaged as a result of continuing to drive the vehicle while the MIL is on, that damage might not be covered under warranty.
 

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So getting back to my main question, if the engine seems to be running pretty much normal, do you think it is unwise to keep driving it for a few days until I can make it back to the dealership? Which is a significant drive in itself. Should I try to just go to the closer, local dealership?
Unless I missed something, seems to me your experience with the first dealer (I assume this is where you purchased the truck) has been less than satisfactory and they are far away. In this case I would give the closer local dealer a shot. All official dealers are "supposed" to be available for warranty work, although they may artificially delay you as not being one of their dealership customers.

By the way, dealer personnel will have a big learning curve with a new model. They can't retain the thousands of differences and quirks between models and years. I am usually the first to trash my local dealer for screw ups, but I also know they are doing their best. Sometimes that isn't very good.
 

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Thanks for the reply, I think I will give the new dealership a shot. I cleared the codes today (copied them down of course) and will take it to the first dealer this weekend to at least have them replace the dome light and then after that I'll take it to the new one, should the emissions problem come back.

FYI I got a P0455 evaporative emission system leak detected (large leak)

And a p0456 evaporative emission system leak detected (very small leak)

It originally appeared after running for about 5 minutes, I was almost at a stop I believe.

After clearing it I drove it to the fuel station and gassed up. Drove it up and down the highway and did a couple pedal to the metal 0-60s and then drove it around slowly in he neighborhood at 25 and under. Nothing yet but we'll see if it comes back...
 

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Mine is an RTL-E and has had the same exact issues. Did you get yours fixed or found out what the issue was? All my warning lights came on after I went over some railroad tracks.
 

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well, i took it back to honda and they fixed the dome light and they replaced the audio button under warrantee, albeit they marred a couple of the steering wheel pieces taking it a part. oh well, i ordered them myself and will change them out myself, so it doesn't get scratched this time. The tailgate has not acted up since that one issue, so i think it was sort of a fluke, maybe i didn't shut it all the way before.
As for the emissions, i took it to them after clearing the codes and it didn't throw more up until today. When i went in they did an emissions test, whatever that entails, and said everything was acting normally. I today i drove it around some this morning, came home and shut down. After about 30 minutes i got back in the vehicle to drive again and the same codes popped back up immediately after starting it... so i guess i'll give the local dealership a call tomorrow after the holidays so they can tell me it's the "gas cap," or hopefully have an actual clue. by the way, i didn't ever get "all warning lights" except for when the auto zone guy plugged in his device, that could have been a compatibility thing. I bought my own 30 dollar wifi cell phone device on amazon and have used it a couple of times now with no issues, same 2 codes both times, single "emissions system problem" warning in the cluster.
 

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I have an RTL-E. Emissions warning light came on at 730 miles. Took it to local dealer (bought it over a 100 miles away). They have now had the truck for 2 days - first did a computerized diagnostic check but could not find the source of the "tiny evap leak." Then they did a manual check with some sort of "smog" system but still didn't find a leak. They called me today and reportedly contacted Honda and checked with their nationwide dealer network and engineers and latest recommendation is to replace the fuel filler assembly which is supposed to arrive tomorrow. Once they replace it, they plan to re-run the diagnostic check. By the way, even though the local dealer didn't sell me the truck, they felt bad for me and are paying for my rental car.
 

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Problem 4: So this is the big one, after just over 500 miles I get a check engine light/emissions system problem and call the dealership, and the service manager assumes its the gas cap. I remind her that the ridgeline doesn’t have a gas cap so she asks me if i refueled the car with the engine running. I don’t know, but i’m not sure if anyone has done that in just about forever so it sounded pretty damn stupid to me. Regardless, she says they’ll look at it when i bring it in next weekend. I have driven it about 5 times for about a couple of hours since it came on and it hasn’t cleared. I also noticed that the green accent to tell you you're saving fuel stays white the entire time. I don’t know if the car is delivering power differently or i’m just crazy cautious now but it just doesn’t feel right. I took it to autozone today to get the codes looked at and when the guy plugged in the OBD2 meter, a number of previously unseen warnings started popping up on the dash. I didn’t have a chance to take note of them but i believe i saw collision mitigation system problem/some kind of towing system problem/vehicle stability problem, amongst a couple of others. After he pulled the meter he tried to plug it in to his computer and it wouldn’t download so i’m SOL there. I restarted the vehicle and none of the other errors came back, except for the emissions system problem message. Has anyone had these problems?




Mine with 650 mile on it has the same issues. Came up as a small evap leak, dealer has had for three days now and is going to replace the filler neck/cap assy. So I see this is not an isolated fault. I took it directly to the dealer and it had them stumped for 2 days. Problem is the replacement part is 5 days out, trying to overnight, but not looking good. Unhappy camper here.
 

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I have an RTL-E. Emissions warning light came on at 730 miles. Took it to local dealer (bought it over a 100 miles away). They have now had the truck for 2 days - first did a computerized diagnostic check but could not find the source of the "tiny evap leak." Then they did a manual check with some sort of "smog" system but still didn't find a leak. They called me today and reportedly contacted Honda and checked with their nationwide dealer network and engineers and latest recommendation is to replace the fuel filler assembly which is supposed to arrive tomorrow. Once they replace it, they plan to re-run the diagnostic check. By the way, even though the local dealer didn't sell me the truck, they felt bad for me and are paying for my rental car.
Same here as far as rental car, I want my truck back!!
 

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Good news, picked up RL after they replaced Fuel shutter door kit. They are sending the one replaced back to Honda for them to check it out.
 

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Good news, picked up RL after they replaced Fuel shutter door kit. They are sending the one replaced back to Honda for them to check it out.
Hope that fixes it.

The '17 Ridgeline is my first vehicle with a capless filler. From the first fill-up, I got the impression that the neck was delicate due to the way it flexes under the weight of the filler nozzle. Then, I saw Honda's video demonstrating how a seal/gasket inside could be dislodged if you attempt to refuel from a portable container without using the supplied funnel. While "neat", I think a capless fuel filler is a solution to a problem that did not exist. I've personally never lost a fuel cap or had one fail, but I'm sure others have.
 

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I've had 4 Ford Escapes with this capless type of filler. I too think it's a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. On the Escapes all were good except for the very first one and had all kinds of weird check engine lights till Ford recalled all the early ones and replaced them. After that all was ok. I put 100,000's miles on those vehicles. Never was an issue.


Steve M
 

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Discussion Starter #17
i'm still getting the same message, about once a month...has anyone confined that the filler cap is the issue, as in it hasn't returned after a month or more of use? I figure I'd like to give it a while for honda to figure it out before bringing the truck in for a few days...
 

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...While "neat", I think a capless fuel filler is a solution to a problem that did not exist. I've personally never lost a fuel cap or had one fail, but I'm sure others have.
Agreed. Nothing wrong with a tethered fuel cap that won't get lost. For a little more security against malicious vandalism, I prefer to use a locking fuel cap when I leave a vehicle at a trailhead for a day or two.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Go buy a cheap code reader ($30) The check engine light can come on for infinite reasons and the code reader is the only way to eliminate needless worry and guesswork.

I did, and in the 3 and a half months I've owned the vehicle I've gotten these two codes 5 times:

P0455 evaporative emission system leak detected (large leak)

P0456 evaporative emission system leak detected (very small leak)
 
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