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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So at 76k miles, the shuddering while stopping for probably the last 20 or 30k miles (maybe more) was addressed. A few hard brakes didn't burn off any deposits so we went ahead and just had the fronts resurfaced. Well, results are in and $44 later it works good as new! That is, until I burn an imprint of the pads back onto the surface. 馃槅
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
did the dealer do it for $44 or did you do it yourself?

We took it to a local auto parts store and when we asked how much they took off, they said "not much". We had previously measured the rotors with a dial indicator to see what kind of runout there was, but it was within tolerance. We have a whole set of front rotors and pads ready to go just in case.
 

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I didn't experience brake pulsation or steering wheel vibration in my 2017 Ridgeline, but I did in my 2019 Ridgeline starting at around 10K miles. A few ABS-controlled stops on dry pavement improved, but did not eliminate the pulsation/vibration. This and rattles are the most annoying issues to me with any vehicle.
 

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You should have used that as an excuse and changed the rotor and pads for something better.
That would be in direct conflict with my preference for keeping a vehicle in the condition it was in when it rolled off the assembly line. ;)
 

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That would be in direct conflict with my preference for keeping a vehicle in the condition it was in when it rolled off the assembly line. ;)
I was actually suggesting it to @silkiechicken , cause I know you do not like much aftermarket mechanical components on your vehicles. Looking at the way I responded, I see that I should have been a bit more deliberate. :)

PS. Not sure why I was typing this with a smile on my face :)
 

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Well done @silkiechicken, 76k? What's your secret? You must use the standing water out there to slow you down.:) If it was me I would have just done the pads and rotors all new while in there go another 80k and call it a day. At least you have options as a DIY'er.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
@zroger73 A few quick stops did make it better for a bit, but it was not to the satisfaction of my SO who it really bothered. We actually think that perhaps one of the contributing factors was that after a trip to Costco for rotation... and my lazyness of not re-checking the torque, uneven lug nut tightness may have contributed to the initial issue.

@smufguy I actually wanted to stick with OEM on the truck so didn't look into aftermarket stuff.

@14v6 I'm still on factory tires with 4.5/32 tread and have not yet burnt through half the pads on the front or rears. I think the secret is my long freeway/highway commute to work. I do have a new set of front rotors and a full set of pads ready to go! I'll likely replace tires before next winter for safety though, given roads are very wet in the PNW. I'd rather not start the wet season with 4/32nd or less.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi ROC, silkiechicken's worst half here. I wanted to share a bit more info about this shuddering/vibration under braking issue in case someone else experiences this.

It started over a year a go. With light braking, there would be light vibration, under heaving braking, heavy vibration. It was consistent with the speed of the vehicle. Higher speeds meant higher frequency vibrations. My first thought, naturally, was rotors.

As I went to re-torque the wheels, by slightly loosening and then torquing the lugnuts, one of them unscrewed with nearly just the weight of the breaker bar... Torquing the wheels back to spec seemed to help initially, but the vibrations soon returned as they were previously. I don't know if this was the initial cause, but it certainly could not have helped. I'm not the primary driver of this vehicle, so I don't really know how it's been driven.

As silkiechicken said, we tested the axial run-out of the outer surface of the rotor and found it to be < +/- 0.002", which indicated that this was not the cause of vibration. Some folks here had previously speculated that deposits can be burnt into the rotor surface, and that some heavy braking may fix that. So we tried that to no real improvement.

silkiechicken called around to a few auto parts stores to inquire about the cost to resurface the rotors and found one that would do both fronts for $44, which seemed like a reasonable cost for some data. So we gave it a go and what do you know, the vibrations are completely gone. Having this truck brake smoothly has now made it enjoyable to drive again. I couldn't stand it before we fixed this, and I actually think that it made the truck unsafe as it likely increased the stopping distance.

Either way, resurfacing did the trick for us. If anyone else is having this issue, I'd encourage them to consider resurfacing before replacing with aftermarket.
 

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Thanks for the detailed information! I'm remembering now that my 2019's steering wheel would shake slightly with light braking. When coming to a gentle stop, I could feel the rate of deceleration changing rapidly, but it wasn't bad enough to turn passengers into bobbleheads. It was most severe after heavy, high-speed braking or repeated heavy braking - when the brakes were very hot, the shaking was almost violent. It hard to believe this could have been caused by "pad deposits" and not mechanical warpage.

I'm well aware of the articles and individuals who state that "rotors don't actually warp", but I spent a lot of time in my grandfather's auto repair shop when I was a boy and I still remember the sound of his brake lathe cutting into the surfaces of rotors. Based on indications I saw with my own eyes on his dial indicator (which I still have) and the sound of the brake lathe, I may no longer exist before anyone convinces me that "rotors don't warp". :)
 

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Rotors warp. I've turned hundreds.
I had a customer come back compaining of "Shimmy w/braking" a month after I had turned her rotors. I saw no indication of over heating, but I noticed new TOYO tires (Les Shwab). Sure enough, the lugs were way too tight, & not equal, either. Later I had a conversation with the manager of that shop, but it didn't help, he can't watch everyone. They all use a torque wrench, but if you're not making the nut tighter with the t/wrench, how do you know what it's torqued to? All they're doing is making the wrench click, whether it's 90 lbs or 190lbs.
 

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Not proper tourque or air pressure seems to somewhat common. Weather it is your dealer or a place that only does tires they do not want to do it the right way. Bought 3 vehicles from Honda tires were inflated 40 to 42 pounds. Hard ride and noisy. Talked to svc Mgr he claimed air compressor is certified by Honda and checked twice a year. My 3 pressure guages claim Bullshit. Tire place over tightens lug nuts. Went to rotate my own and needed a pipe to loosen. Talked to service MGR, he said Blah Blah Blah. Nobody learned anything from Ford Exploder/ Firestone disaster. TPMS is the best result.
Thanks for listening
I feel better now
 

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Talked to svc Mgr he claimed air compressor is certified by Honda and checked twice a year.
Those silly service managers! Honda doesn't certify or check air compressors, but they do send each dealer a 07AAJ-000A100 pressure gauge that is intended to be used only to check the accuracy of other pressure gauges every six months.

"Test Tire Pressure Gauges With New Calibration Tool
Each Honda dealership was recently sent a rather beefy-looking, large-faced (it鈥檚 well over 3 inches in diameter) tire pressure gauge. In case your curious why we sent it, it鈥檚 a calibration tool for
testing other tire pressure gauges. This tool is highly accurate, it鈥檚 a snap to read, and it can measure tire pressures up to 60 psi. To test a tire pressure gauge, follow these steps:
  1. Select a tire that鈥檚 at room temperature.
  2. Set the tire pressure to 30 psi using the calibration tool.
  3. Now, check the tire pressure using the tire pressure gauge you want to test. If the reading on that gauge isn鈥檛 within 0.2 psi, have that gauge adjusted, repaired, or replaced.
It鈥檚 a good idea to test all the tire pressure gauges in your shop every 6 months. This new tool makes short work of it. If you need to replace it or you just want an extra one handy, order P/N 07AAJ-000A100, H/C 8298457 from American Honda parts stock." - Honda ServiceNews, August 2006)

403149

403153
403152


The actual gauge appears to be a USG series 500 low-cost utility gauge. The pressure release button is used only for deflation purposes - the gauge does not hold pressure after removal.
 

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Hey all. I had some issues with my 2016 Honda Civic I bought new. I changed the pads and rotors around 25k I was quite irritated that they had warped. Or so I thought. After I changed them. The issue was not fixed. What it ended up being was the fact that I drove so many miles and never rotated my tires. I got new tires and it fixed the issue. My fianc茅 currently has the same issue on her 2018 Jeep renegade. I told her to get them rotated on her last oil change and she did not. Lesson learned on my part. Just keep that little tip in mind. It鈥檚 not always the pads and rotors. Hope this helps. And good luck. I rotate mine every 7-10k thanks and good luck
Currently about to do my first oil change on my 2019 Ridgeline, and tire rotation lol
 

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Hey all. I had some issues with my 2016 Honda Civic I bought new. I changed the pads and rotors around 25k I was quite irritated that had warped. Or so I thought. After I changed them. The issue was not fixed. What it ended up being is the fact that I drove so many miles and never rotated my tires. I got new tires and it fixed the issue. My finance currently has the same issue on her 2018 Jeep renegade. I told her to get them rotated. Lesson learned on my part. Just keep that little tip in mind. It鈥檚 not always the pads and rotors. Hope this helps. And good luck. I rotate mine every 7-10k thanks and good luck
On Hondas, the tires should be rotated when code 1 appears in the Maintenance Minder each time the remaining oil life reaches 15%.
 

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I need to look into doing that. Mine shudder and it irritates me to no end. About 35k miles.
 

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Looking for advice on how to fix pulsating front brakes.

Background: 2017 RTL-E, changed to 265/60R18 Continental TerrainContact A/T tires at 6.4K miles; typical everyday trips are short and on flat terrain; very light on the brakes; no braking issues.

It鈥檚 on road trips where I drive long descents that the pulsation becomes very pronounced. Starting at around 25K miles, on a road trip that I experienced very obvious pulsation and brake fade. Inspected the rotors and they seem fine. No obvious caking of brake pad deposits. For good measure, I鈥檝e tried to wear off any deposits. Bought a torque wrench and made sure all lug nuts were not overly tight. Tires have been rotated/balanced multiple times. I still experience strong pulsations, which is especially concerning now that I tow a ~2,250 lb travel trailer. I downshift where possible and feather brake usage and never hold the truck still after the brakes are hot.

It鈥檚 obvious the hotter the brakes, the worse the pulsation. Little to no pulsation during daily driving. My engineering background wants to tell me that the rotor material is not uniform and the heat is causing the rotor to be out of true when hot.

Now at 33K miles, should I replace the rotors with OEM? Replace with aftermarket? Or is there another culprit? Also, is there a way to increase brake cooling? The 2021 model has vents into the wheel well.
 

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Measuring rotor thickness & run out will be needed to answer you question, but it sounds like they are warped. It's a typical thing with Hondas, & others.
In order for it to manifest at the steering wheel, all of the steering components down to the ball joints are shaking. This accelerates wear of these parts. Best to fix it soon after it appears.
 

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I鈥檓 still having the same issue MechE discussed. About 43k miles. The brakes were just inspected and have plenty of life. When I brought up the pulsing issue I was told 鈥渙h they probably just overheated once and are somewhat warped now.鈥
 
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