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The photos of the truck from the bay area with the Leer 100XR make me think I might get one.

Was just quoted it for $1695 plus tax, installed. Was also told Leer offers a liner for free, whatever that means.
 

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The photos of the truck from the bay area with the Leer 100XR make me think I might get one.



Was just quoted it for $1695 plus tax, installed. Was also told Leer offers a liner for free, whatever that means.


Headliner. Think roof insulation instead of bare fiberglass.
Go to Leers site and click on coupons or specials and there is a pic.
 

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Was quoted $2,060 for the ARE Z cap with sliding and tilt rear window options.
The pics on their site look like the trunk opens fully with their tonneau.
 

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I ordered the Leer 100XR. It should arrive in about 2 to 3 weeks. Does anyone know if this will allow lock to bed (no lock now on Gen 1 or 2). I know the Leer lock is not going to stop a determined person. I just store gear like traffic cones, flares, a jacket and extra boots in the back. The valuables (Battery Charger, ammo, etc) go in the trunk.

Thanks
 

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Does that ARE cap back window overlap the tailgate "spoiler" and in a sense would "lock" the tailgate?
We ordered one last weekend and the base of the window is molded to the exact shape of the tailgate. You would have to destroy the window to open the gate and at that point you would be in so who cares if the gate locks. We are still considering adding a lock to the gate but will figure that out after the cap is installed. We looked at the tonneau and there is no way to open the gate with that.
 

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My Leer Cap is stalled and working see picture. Over all very pleased (only been 24 hours).

What I like and not so much.

1. Nice water tight fit. (Like)
2. Sort of acts like a tail gate lock. (Like)
4. Rain guard on the window in the back prevents you from opening the tail gate. yes both ways. A determined person could get in. Honestly that is what I expected. The plastic rain guard on the back could be made stronger. A little concerned about how it will last over time. The rain guard is glued into the glass window. So it appears that if that broke you would have to get a new glass. (Do not Like just a little)
5. The dome light (LED) is very bright (Like a lot).
6. The dome light is tied to the electrons of the RL. In other words I had to start the truck to use it ( Do not like). Will keep trying to figure a way to use it without starting the truck.
7. Wish I could lock and unlock with key fob. (not a big deal but Do not like). The key is simple but they always are. The lock is not going to stop a determined person. Understand not supposed to. That is what the trunk is for.

Update: Inside dome light works only when Headlight switch is set at headlights. If headlight switch is set at auto sense during the day the inside light does not work. Will find out tonight if inside cap dome comes on in auto-sense during darkness.

Over all very happy.
 

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When camping with my truck or just loading/unloading things in the dark, I am always using the dome light on my canopy. I would hate to have to have the truck running or even the headlight switch in a certain position to use the dome light. In my case, I would insist that the installer connect the light to a hot lead. As I understand it, the wiring to the trunk lock mechanism of the G2 is hot when the doors are unlocked. I could live with that for the dome light too but would prefer to be able to turn on the dome light even if the truck doors are locked.
 

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I know me so having to tied to the lights is not a bad idea. Save my battery.

I am going to stick an LED battery one next to the installed one. That way I am only out a few AA batteries if I and when I screw up.
 

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I know me so having to tied to the lights is not a bad idea. Save my battery.

I am going to stick an LED battery one next to the installed one. That way I am only out a few AA batteries if I and when I screw up.
See if you can find a couple that are chargeable via micro-usb. Put velcro on them, stick one to the lid and have other one in cab on charger.

As a workaround, Nitecore makes some quality Keychain-type floody flashlights that would work for this. Check out Nitecore "Tube","Thumb", and "TIP".
 

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^^^Battery lights are a good solution. I've never accidentally left the dome light on and drained my battery, but it could happen. Whenever I park the truck for an extended period, I always check that both the cab dome light and the canopy dome light are not on before I walk away.

Here's a question for Coldsteel. Does your Leer cap have a sealing gasket of some kind that goes around the Ridgeline's rear window "cowl"? The cap looks like it sits pretty tightly against the truck's rear window cowl, which would eliminate the option of having any outside air flowing into the front window of the cap, assuming a buyer had purchased the sliding front window option for the cap.

If everything is sealed at the front of the cap, the only way to move air into the cap through the front sliding window would be to open the truck's rear sliding window (which is only available in the US on the RTL-E or Black Edition). Otherwise, the only ventilation option for the Leer cap is through the sliding side windows, which hopefully would be adequate for a dog riding in the bed on a hot summer day.
 

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I have an RTS, There is a small I would say 1/2" gap between the cap and read window. I guess snow and water under a heavy wind could get between the cap and the truck. We have had rain now for about a week (PA and MD) and so far not a drop has been seen on the window.

Had the Truck also washed yesterday at Dealer Car Wash. Still no water. I did get some water leaking in from under the tailgate. Not much just a little water. I am investigating what I can do about it. It was from the car wash.
 

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Pictures of the gap. I hope it helps.

I also found where the water during the car wash came from. There is a ~1/2 gap between the tailgate and the bed. I will have to remember to put a few towels in the gap next time or install some weather striping. Not sure the juice is worth the squeeze to stop water from getting in.

The empty plug it the wiring harness is for a power lock. Just going to leave it alone. If it is not broke .....
 

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Pictures of the gap. I hope it helps....
Thanks, CS! That helps a lot. It is surprising, though, that you're not seeing more water on the front window of the cap from rain coming in a 1/2" gap at the top of the cab and cap.

Awhile back, another ROCer posted pictures of the RL with the top portion of the back window "cowl" removed. Doing that would greatly increase flow-through ventilation into the enclosed bed (through the front sliding window of the cap) to help keep dogs cool back there...but it would also allow a lot more water between the cab and cap windows.

I'll be curious to see how this front gap on the Leer compares with the front gap on the A.R.E. cap that JoWoodburn is getting for her RL.

One more question for you -- if you have the cap with 50/50 sliding side windows, what is the maximum width of the window opening? Thanks again!
 

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Its snowing and wet outside. You are talking about the slider on the side correct. I will put a tape on it next time I go out side. I know it has a screen over it.
 
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