[silkiechicken]

So I've had the tranny judder issue in the past which was "fixed" with 3x DF... and recently, in the last maybe 20k or so miles, have had some hard shifting, so did another 3x DF which seemed to "fix" the issue.

Well, today, after about 220 miles of freeway driving, I pulled over to fuel up and get some snacks. Getting back onto the freeway I quickly realized that the truck would not shift into overdrive as it just sat at ~3000rpm at ~60mph and did not shift. No error messages on the display. So took the next exit, stopped, and restarted truck. Problem went away.

Dog decided she needed a potty break just 10 minutes after getting back on the road, so exited and shut down the truck for about 5 minutes. When I went to merge back onto the freeway, same issue with not shifting into OD once up to speed and thus I took the next exit and restarted the truck. Went another 30 miles or so and reached my second to last destination of the evening with no issue.

Will be plugging in the scanguage for the last 50 miles of the trip... but any ideas what might be going on? Could this be one of the pressure switches I've been reading about on here?

 

[stevem5215]

Maybe but like mentioned the only way to know for sure is to get a live scanner in the truck diagnosing it as it won't set faults.

 

[14v6]

I hope it's a an easy fix for you and not a fork in the road moment. You have a very well maintained RL and should not have to deal with this outside warranty.

 

[longboat]

You didn't accidentally hit the D4 button on the side of the shifter? I've done that before.

 

[zroger73]

Will be plugging in the scanguage for the last 50 miles of the trip... but any ideas what might be going on? Could this be one of the pressure switches I've been reading about on here?

This is a strange one. I like @longboat's suggestion, but I trust that you didn't observe a "D4" instead of a "D" in the multi-information display.

The problem with the pressure switches has typically been that they become slow to respond to pressure changes. In these instances, a switch responds slowly enough to cause harsh shifts for the remainder of that drive cycle, but not long enough to set a DTC.

If there is some other problem that causes the actual gear ratio to differ from the commanded gear ratio, a DTC and warning message light/message will appear "pretty quickly".

If the torque converter clutch is not engaging, the engine RPM will be higher, but I doubt as high as 3K RPM @ 60 MPH. A code will eventually set, but it can take a bit of driving for this to happen.

 

[Rockwood]

Since rebooting fixed the issue, lets do a battery health test. Yes you had been driving for some time, but if that battery is weak, it wont boot up all the computers perfectly each time.

Also wondering if its time for new gear switch solenoids.......

 

[feetdry]

I recall on my gen 1 that when the alternator went out (and took the battery with it) the Ridge wouldn't shift into higher range. I cruised into a close by Honda dealer and they had me on my way again in about 2 hours and over $900.00 less.

Good luck on yours.

 

[silkiechicken]

Thanks everyone.

So I made it home with no issues. @longboat I was on the phone with my other half when this happened and the first question was exactly that, was I in D4. hahaha. And I was not. lol In trouble shooting mode, when the truck was driving correctly, I did press the D4 button and confirmed that the vehicle was indeed not shifting into overdrive.

@stevem5215 I plugged in the scanguage... and realized I didn't have the right programming in it to be able to tell what gear the vehicle was in. So still need to figure that out. In the mean time, I'll keep driving it and I'll put battery voltage on the screen since @Rockwood and @feetdry suggest that this could be a charging/battery issue. I am still on the OEM battery. I do believe I saw the battery at 12 and 14 something during the drive though, but I will keep an eye on it.

@zroger73 Much appreciate your input on this situation. Your knowledge is invaluable.

@14v6 I do hope this is an easy fix. Although I am having issues, it does confirm there was no need to get an extended warranty. As for fork in the road, there really isn't any compelling alternative... so the tines to follow would pretty much be either fix what we have or get a new RL.

 

[gti16vman]

and realized I didn't have the right programming in it to be able to tell what gear the vehicle was in. So still need to figure that out.

Here is where I got the codes I used for my 2018, guessing the same for yours. Gear selected is the first one.

ScanGauge II codes for 2020

Anyone have the codes for a 2020 for Gear and Trans Temp? Tried the 2019 codes that someone posted, and VCM works but nothing on TFT and GER. Searched scangauge and cannot find anything for 2020 Ridgeline. Update: The (alternative) trans temps ATF looks like it works in the 2020 instead of...

www.ridgelineownersclub.com

 

[silkiechicken]

@gti16vman Awesome! Thanks for the link, super helpful.

Edit:
I got the gauge programmed but haven't tested it yet actually going anywhere. Reads 15 in reverse, 1 in Drive, 0 in park/neutral.

Before getting it set up though, I snagged my dad's meter (and my dad) take some battery measurements. Started the vehicle from cold, sitting overnight, with 47F ambient temperature. Turned the truck on twice, with the voltage drop measured at 9.884V and 9.54V on the sequential starts. The cold battery hung out at 12.146V and the alternator kept it up at 14.266.

I also took 3 short trips of 15, 1, and 14 miles, all with no issues. I mean, who doesn't like to chase intermittent problems?

 

[eurban]

@gti16vman Awesome! Thanks for the link, super helpful.

Edit:
I got the gauge programmed but haven't tested it yet actually going anywhere. Reads 15 in reverse, 1 in Drive, 0 in park/neutral.

Before getting it set up though, I snagged my dad's meter (and my dad) take some battery measurements. Started the vehicle from cold, sitting overnight, with 47F ambient temperature. Turned the truck on twice, with the voltage drop measured at 9.884V and 9.54V on the sequential starts. The cold battery hung out at 12.146V and the alternator kept it up at 14.266.

View attachment 434541

I also took 3 short trips of 15, 1, and 14 miles, all with no issues. I mean, who doesn't like to chase intermittent problems?

Where did you take the 12.1volt reading from? Measuring at the battery directly, 12.1 volts is only about a 40% charge. If your battery is settling at that voltage over night after a good long drive then that indicates battery issues. I don't know about your voltage drop readings but they don't seem good either.

 

[Steve Jordan]

@gti16vman Awesome! Thanks for the link, super helpful.

Edit:
I got the gauge programmed but haven't tested it yet actually going anywhere. Reads 15 in reverse, 1 in Drive, 0 in park/neutral.

Before getting it set up though, I snagged my dad's meter (and my dad) take some battery measurements. Started the vehicle from cold, sitting overnight, with 47F ambient temperature. Turned the truck on twice, with the voltage drop measured at 9.884V and 9.54V on the sequential starts. The cold battery hung out at 12.146V and the alternator kept it up at 14.266.

View attachment 434541

I also took 3 short trips of 15, 1, and 14 miles, all with no issues. I mean, who doesn't like to chase intermittent problems?

Good luck, hope it's just the battery.

 

[silkiechicken]

Where did you take the 12.1volt reading from? Measuring at the battery directly, 12.1 volts is only about a 40% charge. If your battery is settling at that voltage over night after a good long drive then that indicates battery issues. I don't know about your voltage drop readings but they don't seem good either.

Battery was measured at the + terminal to a random bolt in the engine compartment. From my understanding, the readings are at the bottom end of barely alive. Since the battery is at least 6 years old at this point... I'm thinking some battery shopping is in store!

 

[gti16vman]

Hopefully it is just the battery!

 

[eurban]

Battery was measured at the + terminal to a random bolt in the engine compartment. From my understanding, the readings are at the bottom end of barely alive. Since the battery is at least 6 years old at this point... I'm thinking some battery shopping is in store!

Yes. If the vehicle is being used regularly and the charging system is up to snuff, a battery that falls to 12.1 volts after sitting overnight is no longer functioning properly. Most definitely take care of your battery issue before fretting about the transmission too much. I hope it works out!

 

[Steve Jordan]

Any news yet on the battery/transmission question/issue?

 

[silkiechicken]

@Steve Jordan I've been slacking and have not actually replaced the battery yet. I plan on doing so next week when my SO and I are in the same place. I can lift a battery no problem, but it is doubtful that I can move it with the precision needed, to get it seated correctly in the truck without damaging something in the process. That said, ever since those first two incidents, the issue hasn't re-occurred yet. I've made several freeway trips (under 50 miles each) with no issues. If I get stranded on this gamble, I'll be sure to let everyone know. LOL

 

[WB77]

Hope a new battery solves the problem.

 

[silkiechicken]

So update on the situation. No, not stranded yet. lol

Commuted all week without issue on the OEM battery, which is a trip of roughly 43 miles each engine cycle, about an hour of on time, mostly in 6th gear with minimal traffic. Despite scanguage reading battery at 11.9 when sleeping, which is lower than read at the battery terminals, it starts up no problem in 30-40F weather and the alternator keeps it charged up on and off as expected during the drives.

Then yesterday, after about 2 hours and ~40 miles of traffic, traveling between periods of stop and go, slow roll, to free flowing, and back to stop and go... the issue popped up again. I mean, I get it, I too despise traffic. I was trying to pay attention and what I noticed was that there was a solid clunk of what I assume was the transmission, when I was rolling somewhere between 20-30mph. I was not sure if I was accelerating or decelerating, as it was slow rolling traffic, but immediately after the clunk I looked at the scanguage and it was in 3rd gear. I could have been accelerating and it had problems downshifting, or I could have been slowing down enough that it wanted to downshift. I really can't say for sure, as I was just feathering the throttle to scoot along in the congestion. Anyway, immediately after this audible and noticeable clunk, when traffic started moving faster, I was no longer able to get into 5th and 6th gears. Almost as if I had the D4 button pressed, of which it was not pressed. So I pulled off at the next exit, shut down the truck, counted to 20, restarted, and off I went... for another 23, 123, and 76 miles, with minimal slow downs and with no issues.

We will be getting a new battery this weekend and I'll keep everyone updated on how this all goes. I quite like the radiant red color....

 

[OldGuyTruck]

So update on the situation. No, not stranded yet. lol

Commuted all week without issue on the OEM battery, which is a trip of roughly 43 miles each engine cycle, about an hour of on time, mostly in 6th gear with minimal traffic. Despite scanguage reading battery at 11.9 when sleeping, which is lower than read at the battery terminals, it starts up no problem in 30-40F weather and the alternator keeps it charged up on and off as expected during the drives.

Then yesterday, after about 2 hours and ~40 miles of traffic, traveling between periods of stop and go, slow roll, to free flowing, and back to stop and go... the issue popped up again. I mean, I get it, I too despise traffic. I was trying to pay attention and what I noticed was that there was a solid clunk of what I assume was the transmission, when I was rolling somewhere between 20-30mph. I was not sure if I was accelerating or decelerating, as it was slow rolling traffic, but immediately after the clunk I looked at the scanguage and it was in 3rd gear. I could have been accelerating and it had problems downshifting, or I could have been slowing down enough that it wanted to downshift. I really can't say for sure, as I was just feathering the throttle to scoot along in the congestion. Anyway, immediately after this audible and noticeable clunk, when traffic started moving faster, I was no longer able to get into 5th and 6th gears. Almost as if I had the D4 button pressed, of which it was not pressed. So I pulled off at the next exit, shut down the truck, counted to 20, restarted, and off I went... for another 23, 123, and 76 miles, with minimal slow downs and with no issues.

We will be getting a new battery this weekend and I'll keep everyone updated on how this all goes. I quite like the radiant red color....

Is it possible that the D4 switch in the shifter is failing? If so, I wonder if vibration is causing it to intermittently cut in and out.