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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Newbie here posting after purchasing a 2018 RTL-E CPO Ridge the first week of March. About 53,600 miles on her, looks to be in beautiful condition but...on delivery the truck started the continuous loop of error messages (lit up like a Christmas tree, as it is said) right with the salesman in the car. Also wouldn't go faster than about 20 mph. He tried various resets, then drove it back to the dealership. They delivered it again later the same day, and they said it had finally just stopped on its own, and said it might have been from getting the engine wet during reconditioning. (Uh, right.) Saturday, same thing happened and multiple powering on and off didn't clear it. VIN ends with 18308. Maybe I should have paid $4000 more and gone with a new Sport? I need a reliable truck as I'll be pulling a travel trailer far from home on my own. Did I make a mistake buying this truck?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
FWIW, dealer said they had no service slots for a week, but they will work me in tomorrow. Any advice appreciated: I know it will heavily depend on error codes, might be corrosion in a connector. Wondering if these 2018s had any pattern similar to the rear harness connector issue for earlier Ridges? Could a 2018 have the camshaft issue?
 

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Did you see a vehicle history when you bought the truck? Assuming there is nothing in the history what you described could have many causes, some innocuous, others serious.

Either way don't panic, all used vehicles have issues. Hell, many NEW vehicles have issues. Its a CPO, so you will likely be covered. Once you get an actual diagnosis, check back in with us.
 

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Often when the dash really lights up, it's electrical, usually loose battery cables or a dying battery.

I don’t know how or if even possible this ties into the 20 mph issue, but I would look into this. If that's the issue nothing is wrong with the vehicle, otherwise I'd be worried if there is something really wrong.
 

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For me, getting a brand-new Sport for $4,000 more than a 54,000 mile 4 year old RTL-E is a no brainer. That is what I would have done, so if it's still an option I would certainly suggest that. The 9-speed with paddle shifters is also a far better choice for towing.

However, if it's too late to change or you consider the RTL-E features a "must have", at least you have a CPO so you should have good warranty coverage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Apex, I did see the Carfax. At 6 months into original ownership and about 7,095 miles, it shows the "Engine/powertrain/computer module replaced." After that, just well-serviced at the same dealership of its original purchase. I questioned the dealership I bought from (Leith Honda in Raleigh, NC) prior to purchase about any codes found during clean up, etc. None. It looks to be in beautiful shape, and I thought the RTL-E features would be helpful on the road, also acoustic windshield, blah blah. It also came with a hard, lift up tonneau cover that locks, painted precisely to match the truck, which is fantastic for the travel I'll be doing with the trailer.

Yeah, now I'm reconsidering the decision to not buy a new one. But this was already twice the amount I've ever previously spent on a vehicle. I'll explore return and purchasing a new one, but am hoping a clear explanation and fix will emerge tomorrow. On carproblemzoo.com, the only clear electrical issue with the 2018 appears to be the rear wiring harness rubbing on the tailgate.

I am very grateful for the ROC. I lurked here to research prior to buying this truck. Thanks to all.
 

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If you do end up keeping it, I wouldn't over-worry about the situation as you should have good warranty coverage with the CPO. It could be something as simple as an out of condition or discharged battery.
 

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What you would be looking for is a continued service/complaint history of the previous owner going back and forth to have it diagnosed. One ECU repair on its own would not concern me too much. As far as the new sport, maybe that would have been a better option, but what's done is done. You liked this RL, and you bought this RL. Don't panic and don't worry about cutting bait unless the truck gives you a good reason to. Right now you don't even know what the problem is. The CPO means it will be on Honda's dime to figure out what's wrong.

That being said, I was just in the market as well and towing was important to me also. I really wanted to spend around 30k for a nice clean 2017. The used market went crazy and my research indicated the ZF9 is a safer bet for towing than the 6spd. That's how I ended up with a 2022. Should you have does the same? Maybe but too early to tell. The new sports come well equipped but your RTL-E has some nicer features over the sport. Here is what you should do....

1) Find out what is wrong and determine the best course of action for repair.
2) If you keep the truck and tow, mind the transmission by changing the fluid and monitoring temps.
3) Enjoy your RTL-E! Your truck is loaded with some features that are even better than the 2021-22 like the headlights.
 

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Crystal Black Pearl 2022 RTL-E, 1.5" Lift, OEM Cover & Running Boards
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You might want to do a simple flood test. When purchasing a used vehicle, I would reach under the dash and check for dirt/silt on horizontal surfaces. Not foolproof but a good indicator.
 

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welcome to the forum! From your description it sounds like the vehicle went into limp mode. Was the CEL flashing? If so this would indicate a mis-fire. Fuel injectors are a known issue on 2018s. Honda changed the FI part number and extended the warranty (TSB 21-010) to cover FI failures. Ask if there is a record of the fuel Injector TSB being worked.
Also request a printout of the service history on the vehicle. This will be more thorough but will only include service performed at a Honda dealer. You can also view the Honda performed service history on the Honda Owner website if you register on the site.
Checkout this post which lists all of the TSBs that apply to your 2018 RL.
 

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Did I make a mistake buying this truck?
Welcome to the Ridgeline Owners Club, @SandyBeach!

Some say that it's better to ask for forgiveness later than to ask for permission now, but a great time to join a forum like this and ask questions is before making a purchase. ;)

Had you done that, one resource I would have pointed you to is this thread:


Hopefully, you won't be joining this list:

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Cbayman--very helpful. Thank you.
zroger73--yes, I lurked on the site and had read both of the threads that you point out. This RL has had good maintenance, including of the differential fluid, etc.

I spent much of the day at the dealership. They changed out the battery after it initially tested okay but then had a power drop. I was very pleased that they didn't stop there, but test drove the truck for a while and it threw another code. They are going to change out the throttle body sensor, but didn't have the part. So the truck is there overnight and should be ready tomorrow. I'll call in the morning and ask about the fuel injectors.

I got pretty friendly with the service manager who was working with me, and he told me his son has a RL. I asked if he thought I should pursue a '22 rather than the '18 to get reliability, and he said this was a late enough VIN that he felt we'd solve this issue and it would be solid. His comment: "You can have issues with a brand new vehicle, too."

Thanks to everyone for input. Fingers' crossed.
 

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I got pretty friendly with the service manager who was working with me, and he told me his son has a RL. I asked if he thought I should pursue a '22 rather than the '18 to get reliability, and he said this was a late enough VIN that he felt we'd solve this issue and it would be solid. His comment: "You can have issues with a brand new vehicle, too."
The service manager has a self-serving interest in keeping you in a vehicle that need repairs.

If you were to ask a salesperson the same question, you'd get a different answer. ;)

Please keep up updated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
My Ridge is back in the driveway. The dealership changed the battery, changed the throttle sensor, updated the nav maps (which on delivery had 2016 maps for a 2018 vehicle...) and had checked out the most common TSB issues for the 2018s, including the fuel injectors.

The service manager was great, never pushing away my questions about various TSB issues. I am very appreciative. Here's hoping that my Ridge will give me long and trouble-free service, as I'll be using it to haul a small travel trailer for solo long-distance travel.
 

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My Ridge is back in the driveway. The dealership changed the battery, changed the throttle sensor, updated the nav maps (which on delivery had 2016 maps for a 2018 vehicle...) and had checked out the most common TSB issues for the 2018s, including the fuel injectors.

The service manager was great, never pushing away my questions about various TSB issues. I am very appreciative. Here's hoping that my Ridge will give me long and trouble-free service, as I'll be using it to haul a small travel trailer for solo long-distance travel.
Good to know they sorted it out for you.

There are a few long running issues which can potentially affect all G2 MYs, including leaking in the rear, tailgate harness failures, etc and a few specific to 2017-19 MY (e.g. transmission). however they affect only a minority of owners. It is worth reading through this forum to understand potential issues as if you are aware of them you can take actions to prevent (as best you can), or address (if needed).

For example, if you are towing, things you can do to be more proactive include monitoring transmission temps, stopping for a while if it overheats, changing ATF at more frequent intervals, etc.
 

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My Ridge is back in the driveway. The dealership changed the battery, changed the throttle sensor, updated the nav maps (which on delivery had 2016 maps for a 2018 vehicle...) and had checked out the most common TSB issues for the 2018s, including the fuel injectors.

The service manager was great, never pushing away my questions about various TSB issues. I am very appreciative. Here's hoping that my Ridge will give me long and trouble-free service, as I'll be using it to haul a small travel trailer for solo long-distance travel.
Excellent, now see step three in my previous post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ooops! Took the Ridge out yesterday for my first kayak trip with it. Two and a half miles from home as I turned onto a busy street, the dash lit up with errors and the truck once again went into limp mode. Thank goodness I wasn't rear-ended. After the 4th or so try of powering down and re-starting, finally got out of limp mode and made it home. Was towed into the dealership. Another day of plans wrecked and stress. The manager says their most experienced tech spent much of the day clearing codes, checking wiring harnesses, pulled out the rear seat checking wiring and they still don't know what caused it. They wanted to have the tech drive it home to see if they could get it to recreate my experience. When I asked how far that would be, the sales manager said 25 miles each way. My response was that I didn't want them putting another 50 miles on her to try to get it to spew codes because I think the error codes are spurious by-products of an underlying electrical problem.

It's so difficult to find a decent truck now, and this one is in mint condition--but for this electrical thing! I have to admit it has shaken my faith in Ridgelines and Honda in general.

They've offered to buy back the truck for what I paid plus the state registration and license fees, which is about $36,800. That means I would still be out $1100 for the state sales tax, and the loan interest and insurance I've paid on it. Turns out that the federal Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act says if a vehicle is under warranty and the company tries 3 times and hasn't been able to fix it, they owe the buyer compensation for all costs, including sales tax, ins., etc. minus the reasonable value of the use received. I've gotten no use of the vehicle. Also Magnuson-Moss provides for attorney fees and litigation costs to a winning plaintiff, which might give me some more leverage for settlement. I think I could possibly push them and get about $37-37,500 toward another car.

A new RTL-E from that dealership is $45,190 MSRP, and $47,342 out the door. So I would have to cough up about $10,000 more. Or I could wait for them to get a Sport which would be about $41,000 out the door, but doesn't have some features I really value, like power seat (I'm short), acoustic glass, navigation and blind spot warning.

BTW, I've provided the service guy with the list of TSBs applicable to 2018 Ridgelines from this forum. He said it was handy to have it in a list that he could use as a checklist. So thank you!

All thoughts appreciated!
 
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