Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Looks like the prices paid thread only want comments on prices you paid. Started to post there but didn't want it deleted.

Thought it would be useful for people to know what offers are out there. If you can give a general area of the dealer it would be good for others.
If you have a trade-in and have been given a number, please include it as we all know how that game is played.

Been talking to many dealers in New England about a 2020 RTL-E Scarlet. Most offers have come in at $39,500 within a few hundred. They all say this is invoice. I purchase under invoice all the time. I purchased my 2012 Odyssey TE for under invoice in Dec of 2011. So don't think we have a lot of truth there.
But some try to add stupid things like $295 for nitrogen in the tires (really!) and stupid dock fees like $800! ! ! Many doc fees are $495, some around $400. One sales dude was so proud that they were the lowest in the area at $425!!!.
All dock fees are just another way to hike the price up.
The best offer so far was $38,700 out of state (MA) but that one was the Nitrogen in the tires dude, some anti- theft marking for hundreds and a whole lot of accessories (already on the truck that they had to get paid for!) that I won't pay for. I stopped him in mid sentence saying I won't put up with this sort of dishonesty (I may have used a stronger word) and hung up..
So not having a good time. My offer is $38,000 with no BS. Which is inline with many of the posted sales in the Prices Paid thread. I am a long time Honda owner. Purchased more than a dozen new. First in 1980. I have two in the garage. Last purchased is a 2016 CRV Touring.
While I am not overly sold on the 2020 Ridgeline as there are some design flaws that really bother me, like the Infotainment system (so poorly designed) I haven't given up yet ( but close). Was really hoping that the 2019-2020 change would fix some of the criticisms. Well, no so much...
I am very close to looking elsewhere. Maybe the Jeep...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
For what it's worth I'm really happy with my 2020 so far. I came from a 2014 Chrysler and prefer the infotainment in the Ridgeline to be honest.

Honda dealers seem really bad with the add-ons though. It's really unfortunate but they make a lot of money on them so...

If you email around, you should be able to get right around 38 I would think. Just email all of the dealers in a 200mi radius and ask for their best price on an rtl-e. Take the best offer you get and email/call back the closer ones to counteroffer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,838 Posts
IIRC, one of the best prices on a 2019 E was in the 36's so in the 38's for a 2020 seems fair IMO.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,048 Posts
Honda dealers seem really bad with the add-ons though. It's really unfortunate but they make a lot of money on them so...
Likely because Honda has little in the way for high profit options. Their vehicles are sold in trim levels, with only a few things for the dealer to add.

When I bought my truck I wrote down a number and told them that's the bottom line. You figure out how you want to split it out between the truck, fees, taxes, etc. But I'm not paying a penny more.

They learned in 1997 when I purchased a car from them my bottom line is my bottom line. We settled on a price. When he was done the paperwork the first thing I see is a $285 "application fee". Sorry, that wasn't in my offer. "But everybody pays that". I don't. I got up and walked out. When he came running after me I told him my offer had now dropped by $285 and I'm still not paying a fee.

When I went back to him him 2005 and 2011 he didn't even mention fees. He was no longer at the dealer when I went back in 2017, but the lady I dealt with didn't argue fees one bit. Must be a note on my account :) She did balk a bit though about taking my cheque. However the sales manager came over an said my cheque is just fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
$39,500 on a 2020 RTL-E is not a bad deal for a new model year Honda. That is over $3600 off of MSRP. There are no ridiculous mark-ups and hidden money like there are on domestic trucks where $10,000+ off of MSRP is a starting point for negotiations. I paid about $38,600 with no bullshit fees or add ons (other than a $150 DOC fee, which I still think is BS) for my 'E', which I thought was an awesome price. Funny, mine was fresh off the truck and they tried to tell me I had to pay for splash guards and floor mats and some other BS because they were already installed, but they were not. I'm sure they were not chagrined that I didn't want them and I probably wouldn't have gotten the price I did if they had their crap added on to it already. However, I had a trade, and they gave me wholesale minus all the reconditioning it needed. There is no free lunch.

I can tell you after living with mine for a few weeks I have had zero problems with the infotainment system. Auto reviewers need something to bitch about, and if you spend a few days with it and get it dialed in, especially if you use Car Play, it is fine. The Nav system integrates with the instrument cluster in a very slick way. The factory Nav is awesome, I use it instead of G-maps or Apple Maps on Car Play.

What Jeep are you considering? The Gladiator really doesn't compare to the Ridgeline. Nothing bad about that, it's just not even the same type of vehicle.

I really don't believe anybody who says they paid much less than I did. There has to be a catch. I don't think you will get a 2020 E for 38K without a bunch of other BS tacked on to it. I think I got lucky because they thought they were going to get me with the add ons.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
893 Posts
I've negotiated with 3 local dealers including a fair wholesale / trade value on my 2017. The going rate around here is about $38,900 on a 2020 RTL-E which about $225 above the net dealer cost (dealer invoice minus holdback). I assume there is still some hidden factory money in there but Sawadee is correct: $39,500 is too much to pay (dealer invoice is $39.520 with delivery included I believe).

My 2017 RTL-E has 70k miles and I have done one of tranny pressure switches (the 3rd gear switch), a TSB reflash on the tranny, new injectors and fuel rails (covered by Honda under the NY 7yr/70k emissions). Lets just say the 6 speed doesn't inspire a lot of confidence although the update on the tranny did seem to help a little. With a trade in value of $22k and decent pricing on the 2020 (plus the ZF 9 speed which has its detractors but is a well built unit) + other nice updates, I'm leaning towards spending $16,900 to 'reset' to a new G2 because a RL is the vehicle I need for my lifestyle right now...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
I've negotiated with 3 local dealers including a fair wholesale / trade value on my 2017. The going rate around here is about $38,900 on a 2020 RTL-E which about $225 above the net dealer cost (dealer invoice minus holdback). I assume there is still some hidden factory money in there but Sawadee is correct: $39,500 is too much to pay (dealer invoice is $39.520 with delivery included I believe).

My 2017 RTL-E has 70k miles and I have done one of tranny pressure switches (the 3rd gear switch), a TSB reflash on the tranny, new injectors and fuel rails (covered by Honda under the NY 7yr/70k emissions). Lets just say the 6 speed doesn't inspire a lot of confidence although the update on the tranny did seem to help a little. With a trade in value of $22k and decent pricing on the 2020 (plus the ZF 9 speed which has its detractors but is a well built unit) + other nice updates, I'm leaning towards spending $16,900 to 'reset' to a new G2 because a RL is the vehicle I need for my lifestyle right now...
That is incredible resale for a vehicle with 70K on it! I would gladly trade every 3-4 years to put on those kind of miles for about $400/month! Just curious what your thoughts are about an extended warranty after the experience you have gone through thus far? I got lucky with my last car (a VW GTI) and had zero problems in 85K miles.

That is also about what I figured the net dealer cost was on the Ridgeline. I can't see how anybody could think they got hosed if they paid $1000 dollars over cost on a $40,000 vehicle. I know it can be done, but at some point your time and stress has to be worth more than the few hundred you might save by chiseling every last nickel out of a deal. This is a luxury purchase. I can more understand somebody being that cost conscious if they are buying an Elantra or a Corolla because they are on a budget and just need reliable transportation. It's especially hilarious when I see people going to the nth degree to save that last $200 or whatever, and then go load up on accessories/wheels/etc. where the profit margins are considerably larger. I'm sure I could have paid less, and I also could have gotten more for my trade if I'd have spent several days shopping it to different dealers, or going through the hassle of detailing it and fixing all the lumps and bumps I could have easily gotten at least $2000 more for it. If I was that worried about it, I wouldn't be buying a $40,000 truck that gets 20 mpg. Of course, I don't want to be a chump. I'd rather the dealer just made an honest buck than add on useless junk like N2 in the tires and blinking brake lights. I absolutely refuse to have my intelligence insulted like that, so that I completely understand.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
893 Posts
On the new sale, I demand aka will not pay for crazy add ons like nitrogen - even something like splash guards are $80 a set to buy separate and take 20 mins to install. However, I will admit that I do chisel the nickels. I have very good relationships with the dealers locally, however, and they understand it is a no nonsense negotiation (I usually present a spread sheet of the numbers I'll need with no hard feelings if they don't want to do it - although they usually will). I only buy last week of a given month as well and commit to their offer for that month to get their best deal.

The resale value is great (honestly a little overinflated IMO). My 2010 G1 RTL with Nav I bought for $33,900, drove it 75k miles over 4 1/2 years, it got totaled and insurance paid $26,500 (that is retail obviously vs a trade value). I will say I am disappointed in the G2 vs the G1 as it in NO WAY feels like it is going to run for 300,000 miles without major and expensive repairs. I performed very thorough and quality DIY maintenance as well as some repairs. I have a lot of experience on Honda/Acuras and do everything except major repairs and those covered by warranty.

Honestly, I have never purchased an extended warranty either from Honda or aftermarket. Part of that is our other vehicle is always a Hyundai or KIA with a STANDARD long warranty included (and ironically I've literally never taken any of our Hyundai or KIAs in for a repair - their quality rankings are no joke). I have always had good luck with past Hondas other than a troublesome Acura TL-S way back in 2003, so I was expecting the typical Honda experience with the G2.

However, based on my 2017, I would not disagree anyone doing an extended warranty if it was a reasonable cost. I do have more faith in the 2020 as the fuel injectors are the new part# (not sure they are that different) and hopefully other bugs are worked out. My basic reasoning is that the weak point - long term - is the 6 speed and the ZF unit is better built - like most ZF trannys. So will probably go the 2020 RTL-E route.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,838 Posts
@klossfam, sounds like you are 99.9% done on the 2020. You know what the best prices were on 2019's so that delta in price for the 2020 minus 2019 will only decrease. Can't you wait until the end of April (or even longer) to get a few months in before the rusting starts.😁
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
893 Posts
@klossfam, sounds like you are 99.9% done on the 2020. You know what the best prices were on 2019's so that delta in price for the 2020 minus 2019 will only decrease. Can't you wait until the end of April (or even longer) to get a few months in before the rusting starts.😁
I am 99.9% there but I have to admit I'm getting cold feet. The TSB flash on the 6 speed did help (done Feb 11) but I suspect at least minor work i.e. pressure sensor 4th gear in the near future. Still, my 2017 is in near perfect condition and although it is feeling its age, it is paid for.

I probably shouldn't have test driven the 2020 down a near deserted road in Sport mode flippin' the paddles. I love ZF trannys from my past RAM 1500s and although it is really not that much quicker than the 6 speed, it is definitely more fun to drive. I also drive my son's Hyundai Ioniq Electric around at times, so used to push button shifters (my RAMs had the dial shifter).

Ironically, if I pull the trigger it will be on Platinum White with Black RTL-E vs my current Black on Black. To make the decision even more taxing, my neighbor just informed me Thursday that she is taking delivery on a new 2020 BE next week...I'll need to get her a ROC decal for the back window.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top