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Same boat here, my 17 I traded got 21 to 22 all around in Upstate NY winters, for years. My 17 also regularly did 28-30mpg on the highway. So far on the 22 RTL-E with 600 miles, 18.5mpg, hopefully that will go up with time. Use the one click method and my phone to calculate.
 

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2017 RTL-E. VCMuzzler 2 which decreases milage about 1-1.2 mpg on highway and the computer readout which is 1- 1 1/2 mpg optimistic so the indicated mileage is about what it would have actually would have been if the VCM hadn’t been disabled. This is warm weather driving, regular (87, 10%) , mixed driving, a little towing, mostly highway, some town (not city), normal speeds but gentle driving. Goodyear Assurance tires which did help mileage.
Good mileage is possible.
On my 2022 RTL-E (2,700 miles), same gas (but winter blend - Nov-Mar) is about 3 mpg less (with VCMuzzler 2 also), I am getting appx 23 mpg overall. I am going to disconnect the VCMuzzler.

 

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Here is something very simple to try: it has increased my MPG's a good bit. My particular Honda OEM engine filter looked pretty tight, with regards to airflow. This new filter I put in at 2000 miles made a big difference. It changed the throttle feel. Feels snappier in the lower gears. I'm not having to press the gas pedal near as far to get acceleration. All I can think is that it improved airflow, which is allowing the engine to work less hard. Now, maybe I'm hurting the engine in the long run, because maybe the thinner filter isn't filtering as well as a tighter/thicker one, but I don't know. I just know that it worked for me. It's a Max -Thrust filter I bought on amazon. Says it doesn't fit my 2022, but it does. With this new filter I can watch the digital MPG bar in real time how it goes all the way to the right (50) at times when coasting or something, and it wasn't doing that nearly as much with the Honda OEM filter. It's also half the price of the Honda filter on Amazon. That's just my experience, and maybe your experience with it would be different.
 

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My 2022 RTL with now 7000 miles of driving experience in ECO mode highway driving with very few stop and goes my actual actual fuel economy is only about 21 mpg, about 3 mpg less that the 24 mpg EPA rating. What might be wrong with my RTL?

As a comparison, I also have a 2019 Genesis 3.8L AWD with a 25 mpg highway EPA rating. I have been averaging about 26.5 mpg in that vehicle - about 1.5 mpg better than the EPA rating.
Ei will try
My 2022 RTL with now 7000 miles of driving experience in ECO mode highway driving with very few stop and goes my actual actual fuel economy is only about 21 mpg, about 3 mpg less that the 24 mpg EPA rating. What might be wrong with my RTL?

As a comparison, I also have a 2019 Genesis 3.8L AWD with a 25 mpg highway EPA rating. I have been averaging about 26.5 mpg in that vehicle - about 1.5 mpg better than the EPA rating.
I will try to offer a few observations, most of which are similar to what others have said here. First, EPA mileage is probably worth comparing on similar vehicles, but your Genesis is quite different from your RL, especially when it comes to aero drag. It may be the Genesis actually gets better mileage at higher than EPA test speeds. Some cars do. Trucks are high drag, and increasing speed increases drag more than you might think. Driving at 70 mph creates 30% more drag than driving at 65. If the engine and drive train are equally efficient at both speeds, then drag alone could reduce your mileage by 3 mpg.
Second, there is one little thing that can improve efficiency. When driving in light traffic at moderate to high speeds, looking way ahead and lifting your gas foot as soon as it looks like traffic is slowing or a light is turning red can save about a mile per gallon - at least, it does for me. It will also reduce brake wear. I just sold a truck with 177,000 miles on it that still had 3/4 of the original rear brake shoes left and more than 1/2 the front pads, which I had replaced once.
Probably there is nothing wrong with your Ridgeline, and I bet if you drove any V8 truck, you’d be burning 30% more gas for the same trips. 21 mpg is pretty darn good for an AWD truck that can tow 5,000 lb and seat 4 or 5 people. My old V6 T100 only gave me 19 mpg with the same kind of driving where I am getting 22-24 mpg in my RL.
 

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As a reference, I just purchased a 22 RTLE 3 weeks ago and have 2,200 miles on it so far, some highway, town and about 300 miles of lightweight towing (1,500 lbs) my total mileage so far is 23.6 MPG. My in town average has been 21, highway trip 24.3 and towing 20.4. I do not use the auto engine cut off or eco mode.
 

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Ei will try

I will try to offer a few observations, most of which are similar to what others have said here. First, EPA mileage is probably worth comparing on similar vehicles, but your Genesis is quite different from your RL, especially when it comes to aero drag. It may be the Genesis actually gets better mileage at higher than EPA test speeds. Some cars do. Trucks are high drag, and increasing speed increases drag more than you might think. Driving at 70 mph creates 30% more drag than driving at 65. If the engine and drive train are equally efficient at both speeds, then drag alone could reduce your mileage by 3 mpg.
Second, there is one little thing that can improve efficiency. When driving in light traffic at moderate to high speeds, looking way ahead and lifting your gas foot as soon as it looks like traffic is slowing or a light is turning red can save about a mile per gallon - at least, it does for me. It will also reduce brake wear. I just sold a truck with 177,000 miles on it that still had 3/4 of the original rear brake shoes left and more than 1/2 the front pads, which I had replaced once.
Probably there is nothing wrong with your Ridgeline, and I bet if you drove any V8 truck, you’d be burning 30% more gas for the same trips. 21 mpg is pretty darn good for an AWD truck that can tow 5,000 lb and seat 4 or 5 people. My old V6 T100 only gave me 19 mpg with the same kind of driving where I am getting 22-24 mpg in my RL.
Yep, not aerodynamic, and heavy, with a big engine. It's one of those things where you just have to accept the MPG's it gets and just drive the thing. You can save an mpg or two if you try hard, but traffic can sometimes limit that. Gotta drive for safety. Hypermiling I never thought was a good idea. Coasting to stop lights and stop signs is ok most of the time. Computer says I'm averaging 22.5 mixed highway and back road driving. Good enough. Gas 'er!
 

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My 2022 RTL with now 7000 miles of driving experience in ECO mode highway driving with very few stop and goes my actual actual fuel economy is only about 21 mpg, about 3 mpg less that the 24 mpg EPA rating. What might be wrong with my RTL?

As a comparison, I also have a 2019 Genesis 3.8L AWD with a 25 mpg highway EPA rating. I have been averaging about 26.5 mpg in that vehicle - about 1.5 mpg better than the EPA rating.
My 2020 RTL-E with 18,000 miles just did 26.2 mpg on a round trip from Houston to San Antonio. Eco mode on and most miles plus 70mph. Same trip when towing our popup camper is around 18 mpg. City driving only we are also around 18 mpg.

We traded in a 2019 Toyota Tacoma Off-road because on its best day we could never hit 20 mpg. Towing same trailer, we were lucky to get 13 mpg. Taco had a 6 speed transmission versus the 9 speed in the Ridgeline. That probably accounts for much of the difference.

I’d love to see a hybrid Ridgeline that can still tow 5000 lbs. Maybe in the next gen?
 

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2022 RTL RL with 2000 miles on the odometer. Did a 223 mile trip on a toll road with some minor hills and no wind and round trip averaging probably about 65 mph, I got 25.23 mpg measured with a repeat fill-up just before the trip mileage and took the exact same round round trip and gassed up at the same place. The gas computer onboard registered 26mpg for the trip and I was the sole occupant at 157 pounds. I was surprised at how closely the two measurements correlated with each other. Tires were all reading 37psi on my dash monitor. My only modification is a Lomax Tri-Fold hard tonneau cover which should not appreciably change the expected mpg by much according to various sites that suggest fractional improvements in mpg with the hard tonneau cover. I used cruise control for about 40% of the trip and was smooth on the throttle with only about 20 miles of surface streets with stop lights.
 

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A chart I saw said the formula for wind resistance is Frontal Area x speed squared =R. So 60 mph would be 60 x 60= 3600. And 70x70 = 4900. And 75x75=5625.. And those numbers would be multiplied by the Frontal Area.

Driving into a head wind adds to the totals. ie at 60 mph, the addition of a10 mph headwind would be the same result as driving 70 in still air. A 10mph tailwind would bring the result to looking like going 50mph. So at 60mph a 10mph tail wind would decrease Wind resistance to be 2500. And a 10mph head wind would increase it to be 4900. Interesting is that a 10mph wind can double the resistance depending on its direction. The faster the wind, the more drastic the differences would be.

Brake usage is another mileage killer. Using the brake requires accelerating back to desired speed. Logic says that driving a constant speed will yield much better mileage than stopping several times. Also that red light up ahead might go green if we coast as much as possible using little gas, vs having to brake harder and burning gas where we could have been coasting. Tailgating requires gas and brake more than we think. That stop sign ain't going to change its mind. Coasting to it will save fuel, especially if there are cars already there. Like someone else pointed out, watch the car ahead. Leave enough distance to be able to coast rather than braking so much.

Then all we have to be concerned with, is load, tire resistance, and shape.
Trailer towing is another barrel of snakes.

Driving 100 miles at 22 mpg will cost $18.18 at $4 per gallon.
Driving 100 miles at 24 mpg will cost $16.66. at $4 per gallon.
A difference of $1.52. That be $15.20 to go 1000 miles. $152.00 for 10,000.

Where are our priorities will dictate our driving habits.







wind can double th
 

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A chart I saw said the formula for wind resistance is Frontal Area x speed squared =R. So 60 mph would be 60 x 60= 3600. And 70x70 = 4900. And 75x75=5625.. And those numbers would be multiplied by the Frontal Area.

Driving into a head wind adds to the totals. ie at 60 mph, the addition of a10 mph headwind would be the same result as driving 70 in still air. A 10mph tailwind would bring the result to looking like going 50mph. So at 60mph a 10mph tail wind would decrease Wind resistance to be 2500. And a 10mph head wind would increase it to be 4900. Interesting is that a 10mph wind can double the resistance depending on its direction. The faster the wind, the more drastic the differences would be.

Brake usage is another mileage killer. Using the brake requires accelerating back to desired speed. Logic says that driving a constant speed will yield much better mileage than stopping several times. Also that red light up ahead might go green if we coast as much as possible using little gas, vs having to brake harder and burning gas where we could have been coasting. Tailgating requires gas and brake more than we think. That stop sign ain't going to change its mind. Coasting to it will save fuel, especially if there are cars already there. Like someone else pointed out, watch the car ahead. Leave enough distance to be able to coast rather than braking so much.

Then all we have to be concerned with, is load, tire resistance, and shape.
Trailer towing is another barrel of snakes.

Driving 100 miles at 22 mpg will cost $18.18 at $4 per gallon.
Driving 100 miles at 24 mpg will cost $16.66. at $4 per gallon.
A difference of $1.52. That be $15.20 to go 1000 miles. $152.00 for 10,000.

Where are our priorities will dictate our driving habits.







wind can double th
Kip, we must be brothers with a different mother.;) Excellent points and explanations.
 

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Some folks commented that actual gas mileage is lower than what the computer in the truck says. I have been monitoring mine carefully, and after seven fill ups, the mpg I calculate using miles driven / gallons purchased is running between 3% and 4% lower than what the truck says. I also checked the accuracy of the odometer by watching the itover a 10.0 mile course on an interstate highway and found it was recording about 0.5% fewer miles than I was actually driving. (I have found the interstate mile markers to be very consistent except in Arkansas. The last time I checked my odometer there on I-40 and I-55, the accuracy varied up and down - clearly not a problem with the car.)
So, overall, I would say the mpg reported by the truck is around 3% more than actual.
 

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Drove my brand new 2022 (less than 500 miles at the time) from Orlando to Stigler, OK (family emergency) and the dash computer said 24.3 mpg. Even if there is a bit of "Kentucky windage" in that reading I thought it was darn good with a brand new truck. No trailer, 150 lbs of luggage and two people and a soft tonneau cover. And NO Eco mode but with the AutoStop Eliminator installed. Prob an average of 65-70 mph the whole way.
 

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Some folks commented that actual gas mileage is lower than what the computer in the truck says. I have been monitoring mine carefully, and after seven fill ups, the mpg I calculate using miles driven / gallons purchased is running between 3% and 4% lower than what the truck says.
So, overall, I would say the mpg reported by the truck is around 3% more than actual.
Sounds about right, .72mpg thru maybe 1mpg less than indicated. I came to the same conclusion over about 5k miles on average hand calculating. One odd thing I noticed is the mpg drops a bunch if I'm wandering the dirt roads with an average speed of about 35 and we have plenty of dirt roads.
 
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