That's probably the amount of energy that went into the batteries. There will be some charging overhead losses (computers, fans, wires, heating/cooler, etc.) of ~5-15%, but you're talking less than 25¢ per charge at your numbers.
That's probably the amount of energy that went into the batteries. There will be some charging overhead losses (computers, fans, wires, heating/cooler, etc.) of ~5-15%, but you're talking less than 25¢ per charge at your numbers.Either way if the kWh are actuals there are some savings.
Just for interior alone that would be a big step down. Starting point would be the XSE trim so you won't be shocked.my wife drives a 2020 BMW X3 PHEV with a sad 20 mile range although, having said that, about 90% of her local driving is on battery. The BMW app also has a similar charging history. In the BMW app you can plug in your utilities charge per kWh to get a cost estimate of each charge.
I appreciate your posts on the Prime. That's a vehicle we were looking at to replace the X3 when it's warranty expires. However, now we may jump to a full EV as the choices rapidly expand.
As EV's evolve they'll become Plug in will become irrelevant but IMO the regular hybrid is the way to go. It will beat the gas ICE mpg's in all situations that I can think of and they drive better. When you factor in hybrid up front cost and the unknowns at trade in those factors do support the case for ICE but to me the only justifiable case for ICE is all highway use, lots and lots of miles and extreme cold. You aren't going to eclipse decades of ICE development overnight but with inevitable legislation ICE will lessen whether we like it or not,I struggle with the desire of plug-in hybrids.
An ICE or EV vehicle requires the knowledge/complexity/maintenance/repair of one powertrain type, while a hybrid requires BOTH.
An ICE vehicle requires gas station stops, and an EV needs to be plugged in, but a hybrid requires BOTH.
If you do a lot of sustained higher speed driving, the efficiency advantage of a hybrid is minimal, or negative if you consider the higher upfront cost.
And if you do a lot of city driving, then why not just buy an EV?
It might make sense if I owned only 1 vehicle AND did substantial city driving AND frequently took 300+ mile highway trips.
You’ve just described my exact use case. One car that can do both. I struggle to see why anyone would buy an EV unless you plan to never leave the city. Then buy what you like. A regular hybrid might just be enough for me though to improve city mileage a bit for my short trips. A PHEV might seem to be more future proof than just a ‘normal’ hybrid, but we won’t have full scale EV adoption within the timeframe of my next purchase anyways. SO then PHEV becomes just an experiment to try the ‘advantages’ (not sure what they are) of an EV. But the P part means I have to be able to charge at home to make it worthwhile over a normal hybrid & even in a single family home, the cost to rewire my house to make that possible is prohibitive.It might make sense if I owned only 1 vehicle AND did substantial city driving AND frequently took 300+ mile highway trips.
There are no 120-volt receptacles or extension cords at your house?But the P part means I have to be able to charge at home to make it worthwhile over a normal hybrid & even in a single family home, the cost to rewire my house to make that possible is prohibitive.
The problem arises when you need to drive more miles than your 120-volt receptacle will provide in 8 hours.There are no 120-volt receptacles or extension cords at your house?
Still, it's cheaper to drive for x miles on electricity and the rest on gasoline in a plug-in hybrid than 0 miles on electricity and all on gasoline.The problem arises when you need to drive more miles than your 120-volt receptacle will provide in 8 hours.
My apologies, I was referring to the EV not PHEV.Still, it's cheaper to drive for x miles on electricity and the rest on gasoline in a plug-in hybrid than 0 miles on electricity and all on gasoline.
Never plugging in a PHEV for any length of time is...
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You can charge off 120V? What people do here is take wiring from the alley & run it into the garage with an upgraded service. Then tear up the yard to bury cable to the house, running it as a sub off the garage (Back detached). Now garage is a single circuit off the house to do opener, lights, & an outlet.There are no 120-volt receptacles or extension cords at your house?
120 volt receptacles are typically connected to 15 amp breakers. Those circuits are designed to handle 80% of their ratings for continuous loads (12 amps) - which is the what level 1 chargers supply.The other consideration, especially in housing where you have a detached garage is both my mom's house in Michigan and two of my dad's houses in California. The detached garage was not much more than an overgrown shed without power. Today two of those three have power, but neither were setup for 220v, so a new trench, circuit and all is required, and I doubt the 120v would handle the load of an EV for 8-12 continuous hours.
EVs are typically charged at night when demand for electricity is typically lowest and there is an excess of generation capacity that is going unused. As EV charging increases, generation won't throttle back as much at night.But we're seriously probably 50+ years away from truly being "charging infrastructure" ready, and that's optimistic if we get started today. And we've not even considered where we're sourcing our electricity for charging.
Well, we can agree to disagree, those two garages, both I was around when they were "electrified". Only one would I even consider parking my $50k+ EV in, and it's in Michigan and uninsulated, and I know I've blown the 15A fuse more than once while just working on my HS car. lightning, electric kerosene heater, power tools will cause the direct bury cable (looking back not much more than a buried extension cord). As I recall the electrician friend wanted to upgrade, but she couldn't afford it and the then boyfriend was just getting power for a GDO she wanted.120 volt receptacles are typically connected to 15 amp breakers. Those circuits are designed to handle 80% of their ratings for continuous loads (12 amps) - which is the what level 1 chargers supply.
Also, the same wires that carry 120 volts can be reconfigured to carry 240 volts which would allow an EV to charge twice as fast; however, if there are 120-volt devices in that same location (e.g., lights or garage door openers), they may need to be replaced with 240 volt versions or a 240/120-volt transformer added.
If by infrastructure I solely meant power generation, I agree that's there's unused capacity. But maintenance and associated downtime also factors in. Also extended heat waves (CA/MI) extended cold snaps (TX), squirrel on a power line (Western Electric Grid) and associated black and brown outs, those are all things that happen or have happened in the last 25 years or so of my life.EVs are typically charged at night when demand for electricity is typically lowest and there is an excess of generation capacity that is going unused. As EV charging increases, generation won't throttle back as much at night.