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I know there has been some chatter about using 2wd rear springs to lower the rear but has anyone tried it? The part numbers are different for the springs and the specs show the 2wd is .6 inches lower and has that number in the ground clearance as well. They are about $50 each. Might just be the ticket. Really would like to see someone try this south of the border before I ship them north
 

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I know there has been some chatter about using 2wd rear springs to lower the rear but has anyone tried it? The part numbers are different for the springs and the specs show the 2wd is .6 inches lower and has that number in the ground clearance as well. They are about $50 each. Might just be the ticket. Really would like to see someone try this south of the border before I ship them north
I'm considering doing it. I went and measured 2wd and AWD sitting side by side at the dealership. Only problem was that they were sitting sideways on a small incline which gave different readings on left vs. right side. Even so, I got close to a 1" difference at all 4 corners. I don't see any reason why the 2wd springs wouldn't fit our AWD's, can't believe Honda would make changes in the upper and lower pockets that hold the springs. Just need to get off my lazy butt and do it. :)


Edit: Got off my lazy butt. Springs ordered. $110 from Bernadi's including shipping

Mods, could you move this thread to the suspension section and I will post pics/install instructions when I get the springs. Thanks.

2nd edit: Search for adjustable rear ball joints if you end up with too much negative camber. Not too hard to install and will restore settings back to Honda spec (just barely).
 

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Way to go magician. I ordered as well but you will get yours long before I go to the border to pick them up. Please do post your pics when you install them. Oh my bad. I thought I posted in the suspension thread
 

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Took about 2 weeks to get the springs, no one has them in stock. Just installed one, took about an hour. Does it work? In one word, yes. BUT, I didn't get the 1" drop I was hoping for, more like 5/8" (unless factory springs settle like aftermarket ones). I'll measure again in a couple of weeks and update.

I'll post some pics this weekend of the install process. Wasn't too difficult however I did strip the bolt holding the bottom of the shock to the control arm or whatever you call it. I followed the Pilot manual and put a jack under the arm and compressed the spring before removing the bolt. Think I'll try removing one of the bolts on either end of the control arm first on the other side. Think that will help relieve some of the pressure.

Is it worth it? Not sure at this point, have to order new bolts and get the other side installed before I'll make a final decision. And you will need spring compressors or some tool to compress the springs to be able to remove them from the shock.
 

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Having done Struts (with springs) on both my Civic and Del Sol, just be sure you get the orientation correct, so the spring "seats" properly, additionally it may be worth removing them and finding a shop with a strut compressor, back east a family member got it done at the same shop which turns his rotors for like $80 for all 4 struts on his Accord

YMMV
 

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Okay, here's the write up to replace the rear springs. After placing on jackstand and removing wheel, the Pilot service manual says to compress lower spring arm with jack and then remove bolt holding bottom of shock. This caused me to strip the bolt taking it out because of the downward pressure of the spring on the bolt.

My suggestion is to compress lower arm and then remove the two bolts on either end of the arm first, release jack slowly and then remove the shock bolt last with no pressure on it (see first pic). All 3 bolts have to be removed in order to remove the shock/coil (the outer end of the arm is notched and sits on top of the brake caliper).

Next, remove the 3 bolts holding the top of the shock and remove the shock/coil and clamp bottom of shock in vise. 2nd pic shows how the rubber ring that sits on top of the spring has 3 markings which will help you orient the spring relative to top mount.

3rd pic shows the setup to remove the coil from the shock. You must first compress the spring to take the pressure off the top mount (I got mine from Harbor Freight 25 years ago for $15 or so. They've actually held up well, probably removed half a dozen sets of springs over the years).

After spring is compressed, use a wrench and 6mm hex to remove nut (6mm hex keeps shock shaft from rotating). Swap out springs making sure bottom of spring is up against the stop on the shock. Then orient the top rubber cap correctly (the old spring will leave an impression in the rubber showing you where it sits on the spring. Then install the top mount using the 3 marks to orient it correctly.

You will need to compress the new spring so you can install the nut. I didn't try and torque it due to the hex wrench needed to keep the shaft from rotating was in the way, I just snugged it down as tightly as possible. Then reverse the process to install. I purchased all new bolts and nuts. The 3 Upper bolts are 40 ft. Lb. The 2 outer bolts on the lower arm (be careful not to mix up, each one is different length) are 74 ft. Lb. The shock bolt is 132 ft. Lb.

The sequence is as follows. After top bolts are installed loosely, install lower arm shock bolt first (loosely). Next, install outer bolt that holds arm to brake caliper. Then, take jack and compress arm into position and line up inner hole that holds arm to truck (you will probably need to take alignment tool and put in hole to muscle into alignment. Then install inner bolt.

Compress and release spring a couple times to make sure everything is in alignment and then torque the 3 top bolts first followed by the 3 bolts in the lower arm (the top mounting bolts have some adjustment, you'll see the impression of the bolts heads so they can go back in exact same position). You're done! Install wheel to 94 ft. lb. and go enjoy your truck.
 

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here's the info for the springs (from Bernadi's)

Qty / Product / Price / Extended

(2) 52441-TJZ-A01 $47.67 $95.34
Honda SPRING, RR.


SubTotal: $95.34
Tax: $0.00
Shipping Total: $15.10
Grand Total: $110.44


And here's the invoice for the 12 bolts and 2 nuts that the manual recommends you replace. About $45. (Black Edition; check Bernadi's if you have a different model).
 

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SUCCESS!!!! Should have waited until I had both springs installed before I said anything. Got almost a full inch drop. Went from 34 & 7/8" to 34" (I have 265/50/20 tires and measured from ground to bottom edge of fender at the center of rim). Now it's only a 1" rake as front measures 33".

All in was $157 including springs, bolts and shipping but you'll save another $15 or so if you order bolts along with springs from Bernadi, they're quite a bit cheaper than the local dealer.

Took it out for a 20 minute drive and acted just like it did before the swap. Will update in a couple weeks but for now, really happy with the way it turned out.
 

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Looks good! You could pair it with a front 1" lift if you really want the leveled look. But that looks pretty good and keeps comparable spring rates. Thanks for checking it out and sharing!
 

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SUCCESS!!!! Should have waited until I had both springs installed before I said anything. Got almost a full inch drop. Went from 34 & 7/8" to 34" (I have 265/50/20 tires and measured from ground to bottom edge of fender at the center of rim). Now it's only a 1" rake as front measures 33".
It looks good, and I look forward to more pictures in better lighting

When you have a chance would you mind getting the part number all typed up so those interested can just copy them all and search Bernardi or whatever Online Honda Dealership of their choice to find the parts.

7/8" drop from 34 7/8" to 34" and a 1" rake vs a 1 7/8" rake over the length of the vehicle has to be a great impact visually

Good Work @Themagician

Ever in Victorville or passing through I'll buy you a cold one of your choice ;)
 

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Nice work, exactly what I was looking for. If you could post the torque specs, that would be a great help, I assume those bolts are torque to yield. Which means they need to be torqued correctly and stretch to work, that is why they are one time use.

Do you have access to the top nut on the shock while it is on the truck? If so, you can compress the spring and remove the top nut while it is on the truck, then gently lower it down. Saves having to use the suicide sticks. I use that method on the Miata and it is really much safer.
 

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Nice work, exactly what I was looking for. If you could post the torque specs, that would be a great help, I assume those bolts are torque to yield. Which means they need to be torqued correctly and stretch to work, that is why they are one time use.

Do you have access to the top nut on the shock while it is on the truck? If so, you can compress the spring and remove the top nut while it is on the truck, then gently lower it down.

Torque values are posted in post 6 sloopercat. Read the Pilot manual before you do it, it also gives you torque values (go to "removal/install" file and then "rear damper/spring removal"). And no, shock nut while on truck is not accessible that I know of. Whole assembly fits up inside "frame rail".

As to safety, the spring only needs compressing less than an inch to take the pressure off the top mount. Not like the old days when springs needed several inches of compressing and I felt like death was imminent :)

https://drive.google.com/drive/mobile/folders/0B_oKpK0tjrpqN3JuTktaS2hmSFk?sort=13&direction=a
 

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Better pic in the light. And I just took it on a run to downtown Vegas. One off ramp is a big sweeping curve that feeds from I-95 to I-15 and I can take at 60-65. Pushed it at 70 today and truck felt solid as a rock.
 

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Perfect

I wouldn't want anything lower.

That's what some dealers should do

Especially to say a BE, as a lifestyle vehicle
 

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It's hard to believe that Honda's market research for the G2 indicated that truck buyers associate a forward rake with more payload capacity. Although I would prefer a front lift for increased clearance, I think your back-leveled truck also looks way better than stock.
 

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Without Engineering Specifications, I would not doubt he's lost tongue weight, and honestly the G1 has quite a bit of squat towing at or near max tongue weight.

If you're often towing at max for a high percentage of your miles, you should be shopping for a full size, IMHO

Good Work @Themagician LOOKS GREAT! ;)
 

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Good news is that I've put several hundred miles on the new springs with absolutely no issues. Bad news is that shorter springs induce negative camber (wheel tilts in at top as viewed from the rear).

Dropped by by dealer today and the alignment guy said rear camber is not adjustable, takes an aftermarket kit to correct (which I'm pretty sure is not being made for the RL yet). He did say it actually improves cornering slightly and I long as I rotate every 5K, shouldn't shorten tire life too much (guess that's the price to pay to look cool) :)

Just wanted to make sure everyone's aware of what they're getting into when they install shorter springs.
 

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Just guessing here, but does that mean the rear control arms are a different length on the FWD vs AWD RL's? If not, then how is proper rear alignment achieved on the FWD RL? (I'm no expert on these matters.)
 

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Just guessing here, but does that mean the rear control arms are a different length on the FWD vs AWD RL's? If not, then how is proper rear alignment achieved on the FWD RL? (I'm no expert on these matters.)
Good point dogonboard. Might stop by the dealer later this week and measure the lower control arm on a fwd and see if its shorter.
 
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