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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I bought these $99 wireless backup sensors from here:
http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/wipaas4sebar.html

They work as advertised and I'm very pleased although the install was not so simple and directions a little unclear. I'll start with the pro/cons verses the honda sensors:

3rd party vs. Honda:
$99 vs. $1000 (product & install fees)

LCD screen displays distance to object, shows where object is: left/center/right, has mute/Hi/Low Volume vs. Honda has only audio at one volume.

With taligate down it will beep away vs. Honda has cut off of middle sensors to not give false signal when tailgate it down.

Only beeps when object is near vs. Honda will beep once when put into reverse no matter if object is near or not and then function normally after that.


Now onto the install procedures. First the rear bumber is removed and holes drilled using same preset markers as the honda ones. Use the instructions for this that are the same for Honda ones:
http://www.handa-accessories.com/ridgeline/backupsensor.pdf
Insert the sensors, the fit was rather tight so I'd suggest putting a little grease or silicon on the sides of them. Also, use the rubber shims that were included, slide them on the sensors with the thicker part on the bottom so the sensor will point up very slightly. Look at the sensor directions and see how they have labeled them A,B,C,D and on the black box. I took a pen and marked the connections on the sensor plug and the black box so I would get them right. This is only for getting the indicator on the LCD screen to be correct when it shows if the object is left/right/center.

Go to the hardware store and buy some 22-18 AWG tap slices. Follow the directions from the pdf link above for the Honda install to remove the tail lights, really easy. Tap the power supply wire from the black box to the reverse light wires. Tap the red black box wire to the green reverse light wire and the black box wire to the orange reverse light wire.

Follow the directions from the Honda install to cut out a channel in the styrafoam bumper inserts. This was not so easy as the foam is very dense. I ended up using a combo of my sawsall with a long blade, utility knife and a chisle. I then double side taped them back to the bumper so they wouldn't move out of place. Feed the wires thru and put the back bumper back on.

Secure the black box to the in-bed trunk high up on the back side, see pics for details, and connect all the sensors to the black box.

Up front, I tapped the LCD screen power supply wires to the power supply on the left side. I used the honda instructions to remove the center console piece. This was tricky as the fold out/drop down coin holder/storage bin had to be removed to get access to a screw behind it. Honda did not mention how to remove this but you open it and then pull really hard on the bottom section towards you and it will pop out.

I removed the insulation from the power supply wires on the honda unit and tapped into them, red to red, black to black. I then fed the wires back LCD screen wires back into the console and under the dash to get to them later. I used doubled sided tape to install the the screen to the dash and ran the wires down the cracks.

Summary: This is a two person job, actually just for removing and installing the bumper as one has to hold it while the license plate light connentions are removed. Sounds like alot of work but it went quick once I figured everything out, probably just a few hours all in all. Lot easier than the fog lights. If you like to tinker and good with your hands how can you lose for $99. If things don't work out you can always install the Honda ones. I don't know the longevity or durability of these but right off the bat they are working great. For sure a wired connection like the Honda ones is a better choice for reliabilty but I like to get my hands dirty so I'm going to give these a shot. If your not the type of person to do your own work then for sure have the dealer install the Honda made ones. Good Luck!
 

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Great contribution. Install looks clean. Do you plan on doing any mods to the stereo? I would like to see your take on that one.
 

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Very nice job, vertrkr. Very clean and professional looking.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks guys. I went back and forth on where to install the screen. I could have mounted it under the dash out of site and just relied on the audio but finally decided I wanted to see the screen for now, might move it later.

Also, the wire dangling in the bottom pic is the antenna wire, I'll just tape it down later, couldn't find my black tape at the time.

Sorry bongus, I never intend to mod the stereo as I never listen to music in the car, only talk radio am. I only listen to music in the house, I probably weird but that's just the way I am.
 

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vertrkr said:
Thanks guys. I went back and forth on where to install the screen...
I wonder if you considered the driver's side visor to install this, or maybe the side pillar is hard to route a power wire thru.

Oops, maybe the LCD has an internal battery?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
laserfan said:
I wonder if you considered the driver's side visor to install this, or maybe the side pillar is hard to route a power wire thru.
Oops, maybe the LCD has an internal battery?
LCD must be hard wired to a hot supply. I choose the power outlet because I knew they'd be hot but turn off when the when the key is off. The wires are long enough to reach most everywhere. I like where it is but I might move it around and experiment, easy to do since it's just double sided taped on.
 

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Green With Envy Moderator
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Moved over to the new category.
 

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I bought this same system in Silver, about $100.00 dollars, and decided to go with the back up camera instead. I will let it go for $75.00 including shipping if anyone is interested. The direction are listed in the thread above since it came without them. Joey d
 

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vertrkr said:
I bought these $99 wireless backup sensors from here:
http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/wipaas4sebar.html

They work as advertised and I'm very pleased although the install was not so simple and directions a little unclear. I'll start with the pro/cons verses the honda sensors:

3rd party vs. Honda:
$99 vs. $1000 (product & install fees)

LCD screen displays distance to object, shows where object is: left/center/right, has mute/Hi/Low Volume vs. Honda has only audio at one volume.

With taligate down it will beep away vs. Honda has cut off of middle sensors to not give false signal when tailgate it down.

Only beeps when object is near vs. Honda will beep once when put into reverse no matter if object is near or not and then function normally after that.


Now onto the install procedures. First the rear bumber is removed and holes drilled using same preset markers as the honda ones. Use the instructions for this that are the same for Honda ones:
http://www.handa-accessories.com/ridgeline/backupsensor.pdf
Insert the sensors, the fit was rather tight so I'd suggest putting a little grease or silicon on the sides of them. Also, use the rubber shims that were included, slide them on the sensors with the thicker part on the bottom so the sensor will point up very slightly. Look at the sensor directions and see how they have labeled them A,B,C,D and on the black box. I took a pen and marked the connections on the sensor plug and the black box so I would get them right. This is only for getting the indicator on the LCD screen to be correct when it shows if the object is left/right/center.

Go to the hardware store and buy some 22-18 AWG tap slices. Follow the directions from the pdf link above for the Honda install to remove the tail lights, really easy. Tap the power supply wire from the black box to the reverse light wires. Tap the red black box wire to the green reverse light wire and the black box wire to the orange reverse light wire.

Follow the directions from the Honda install to cut out a channel in the styrafoam bumper inserts. This was not so easy as the foam is very dense. I ended up using a combo of my sawsall with a long blade, utility knife and a chisle. I then double side taped them back to the bumper so they wouldn't move out of place. Feed the wires thru and put the back bumper back on.

Secure the black box to the in-bed trunk high up on the back side, see pics for details, and connect all the sensors to the black box.

Up front, I tapped the LCD screen power supply wires to the power supply on the left side. I used the honda instructions to remove the center console piece. This was tricky as the fold out/drop down coin holder/storage bin had to be removed to get access to a screw behind it. Honda did not mention how to remove this but you open it and then pull really hard on the bottom section towards you and it will pop out.

I removed the insulation from the power supply wires on the honda unit and tapped into them, red to red, black to black. I then fed the wires back LCD screen wires back into the console and under the dash to get to them later. I used doubled sided tape to install the the screen to the dash and ran the wires down the cracks.

Summary: This is a two person job, actually just for removing and installing the bumper as one has to hold it while the license plate light connentions are removed. Sounds like alot of work but it went quick once I figured everything out, probably just a few hours all in all. Lot easier than the fog lights. If you like to tinker and good with your hands how can you lose for $99. If things don't work out you can always install the Honda ones. I don't know the longevity or durability of these but right off the bat they are working great. For sure a wired connection like the Honda ones is a better choice for reliabilty but I like to get my hands dirty so I'm going to give these a shot. If your not the type of person to do your own work then for sure have the dealer install the Honda made ones. Good Luck!
:mad: I wanted to buy this great deal you found, but they are sold out:mad:

Thanks for the great tip & keep safe...
 
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