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Discussion Starter #1
I have an 06 with 86k on it. I bought it a year ago an the dealership replaced the A/C compressor. The a/c seems to be warmer when the fan is on full blast or I when I am idling. As I turn down the fan, the air is cooler of if I am at highway speeds it is cooler with the fan full blast. I don't have any special tools to diagnose so I put a meat thermometer in the vent. It stays around 63 degrees with the fan full blast but as I said, it will decrease when the fan is turned down. It just doesn't seem cold enough. I can hear the system kick on when I press the a/c on/off button. I do not have a warranty so my next step is to take it to my mechanic an check the Freon level. Any thoughts? Thanks

Duff
 

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Swap out the compressor relay in the relay box under the hood (passenger side) and see if that helps. Part is $12 to $20 depending on where you go. There are many relays all the same size so you can just pull and swap also.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ok. what does the relay do? I assume there is no way to test the part without swapping out old for new? Thanks
 

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Note the second part of the advice above. Use a 'like' relay from somewhere else to validate the failed one.
If I remember correctly, the heated seats relay (RTL) might be one that is the same. You can search other threads on the subject to be sure.
 

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You may just need to recharge your AC, I'm willing to bet that you have a small pinhole leak and you are only getting enough freon to cycle when the engine is at a higher RPM, the lower RPM's are not allowing enough movement to cool things down.

A recharge kit from autozon is like 20-30 bucks and they have simple to follow instructions in them. I've fixed at least a half dozen similiar AC issues with just a recharge kit.

It may hold the charge for a month, or 2 years, just depends on what type of leak (if any) that you have and where.

If swapping out the relay doesnt solve the problem, then give this a go.
 

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Modern cars are very sensitive about the amount of refrigerant and oil in them. I would advise going to a pro to check the levels.

Chip H.
 

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The world of quick fixes do not require prior knowledge or concern for consequences.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
[QUOTE or=Elkhunter;1675050]Swap out the compressor relay in the relay box under the hood (passenger side) and see if that helps. Part is $12 to $20 depending on where you go. There are many relays all the same size so you can just pull and swap also.[/QUOTE]

I am going to pull out and swap the relay with another first. Will I get any errors or codes if I do that. i was going to pull the windshield defroster relay and swap with that but it looks like it's bigger.
 

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No you won't get an error code unless you pull the wrong relay:act002:

Using this image of the under dash fuse/relay box, two examples of relays you can use are: relay #2 (rear accessory power socket relay), # 4 (the power window relay)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No you won't get an error code unless you pull the wrong relay:act002:

Using this image of the under dash fuse/relay box, two examples of relays you can use are: relay #2 (rear accessory power socket relay), # 4 (the power window relay)
Yesterday I swapped out the ETCS relay for the A/C but it didn't fix it so I swapped them back. Thanks for the info. I'm taking it to my mechanic on Friday to check for leaks.
 

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Yesterday I swapped out the ETCS relay for the A/C but it didn't fix it so I swapped them back. Thanks for the info. I'm taking it to my mechanic on Friday to check for leaks.
If your mechanic is also an A/C specialist (or your problem is simple) that will be great. Otherwise I'd recommend an independent shop that specializes in A/C. You can potentially avoid a lot of tail-chasing.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
He is not an A/C specialist but maybe he can at least diagnose it. If not I will follow your advice. It got nice and cold on the highway today. We'll see. Thanks
 

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If comp running and condition is same..check for fan coming on....both i assume.
Spray cold water into grille to see if clear and lowers temp
 

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Discussion Starter #15
A/C was drained and recharged today. Mechanic said he did a leak test and there were no leaks. He thinks when the dealer replaced the compressor they just topped it off with freon but didn't drain the system first. I also had the sway bar end links replaced but I still have a clunk in the front driver's side. Any thoughts on what to check next?
 

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A/C was drained and recharged today. Mechanic said he did a leak test and there were no leaks. He thinks when the dealer replaced the compressor they just topped it off with freon but didn't drain the system first. I also had the sway bar end links replaced but I still have a clunk in the front driver's side. Any thoughts on what to check next?
You already checked the windshield washer fluid bottle to see if it's loose at the top of the neck? That makes a distinctive 'clunk', and may not be discernible as to which side it's coming from.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I checked windshield fluid tank a while ago because of a noise and found that it was missing the top clip or bolt so I put a piece of foam tape and it's been quite since. But that was a loud noise.
 

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A/C was drained and recharged today. Mechanic said he did a leak test and there were no leaks. He thinks when the dealer replaced the compressor they just topped it off with freon but didn't drain the system first. I also had the sway bar end links replaced but I still have a clunk in the front driver's side. Any thoughts on what to check next?
Check or ask your mechanic to check the motor mounts.

Did you go with OEM end links or aftermarket?

Either way if you know how much was that part of the job
 

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So in your case the $20 recharge kit would have solved your problem and not only temporarily fixed it. Cheap solutions to problems are not always a bad thing.
 

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So in your case the $20 recharge kit would have solved your problem and not only temporarily fixed it. Cheap solutions to problems are not always a bad thing.
Do those over-the-counter kits accommodate the "draining" part of the equation? I would like to know.... I always assumed they were just an "add to it" kind of thing to get the charge back up to where it needed to be.
My personal experience assumed that the "evacuation" process had to be done on a machine that held vacuum while you did that, and before the new "freon" was added back in.

I am anxious to be schooled here, because I really don't know that much about A/C. I did read however above that the suspected "solution" (which worked) was to get the bad stuff out before putting the good stuff in! Help me understand. :)
 
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