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Glad to see you got the Grabbers changed out.......

I'm curious though - did you go with 255/55 because 60 section are not available from Toyo?
 

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Discussion Starter #122
Glad to see you got the Grabbers changed out.......

I'm curious though - did you go with 255/55 because 60 section are not available from Toyo?
Yes. Jusr not many choices for AT tires in sizes for this truck. I don't mind giving up the 1/4" height/clearance vs stock. I tow far more than I do any real off road stuff so the extra torque will be a bonus.
 

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Discussion Starter #123
It's been quite a while since I've posted here. I've FINALLY solved my tire/wheel saga. I went through hell with it but it's done now.

Two sets of tires,
One wheel swap,
Three different shops,
Eight different attempts to get a good ballance. (That's right 8)
All a waste!

Turns out Hub-Centric spacers were all that was needed to solve the problem. Apparently the shops around me are not educated on hub-centric mounting as I had to come up with this solution on my own. I measured the hub flange and the wheel and ordered the spacers from www.justforwhweels.com for $35.

It's all good now. Soooooo glad it's over.
 

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I'm just learning about these rings/spacers...could you share a bit more about how they solved your wheel and tire problems? From your photo, it looks like your rings fill the gap between the axle hubs and the center hole of your aftermarket wheels but do not change the offset. I'm assuming this solved the vibration problem you were getting from using lug-centric wheels?

If someone wants to use the OEM RL wheels but reduce the offset to gain more inside clearance for the sidewalls of slightly larger tires, they would need a hub-centric wheel spacer? Am I on the right track here?

Thanks!
 

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That's a nice video to show what hub-centric rings do, and it explains why the rings solved Q tech's wheel vibration/tire alignment issues. The next step is trying to figure out if a hub-centric wheel spacer that reduces offset could be used with the RL OEM wheels to allow the use of slightly larger or taller tires (say 255/60X18 or 265/60X18) without rubbing the inside of the tire on the chassis at full steering lock.

The Jsport guys from Honda Racing have put together a leveling package ("Ridgeline Chase") with custom wheels (mounted with hub-centric rings), larger tires, suspension spacers and modified stabilizer links. So far, though, they aren't releasing any specs on their wheels or tires due to concerns about other aftermarket makers knocking off their product which they claim took thousands of hours of R&D to develop and certify for the G2 RL. I get that but it seems a little silly to think they can keep tire size, wheel offset and ground clearance of the modified RLs secret once the trucks are on display at dealers or sold to the public.
 

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Follow-up to my post above:

Gunnslinger did say that the tires are 1" taller and the wheels were direct replacement matching factory specs. That suggests the same offset as OEM wheels, but if so, I wonder how they solved the issue of bigger tires rubbing on the chassis. Still undisclosed is the new ground clearance spec -- something that most potential buyers would really want to know.
 

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The dealer window decal, tailgate lettering, and license plate frame came off immediately, however.
Fortunately, my dealer does not put those horrid dealer decals on the back of their vehicles. Unfortunately, I have to keep the dealer license plate frame on, or I can't get my unlimited free for life car wash/vacuum. Otherwise, I have a gorgeous black chrome frame that I would normally use..
 

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Unfortunately, I have to keep the dealer license plate frame on, or I can't get my unlimited free for life car wash/vacuum.
On the rare occasion I'm in a dealer for service, I specifically tell them NOT to wash my vehicle. The fewer hands are on it, the better. I do NOT want motorized brushes dragging across the paint.
 

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Fortunately, my dealer does not put those horrid dealer decals on the back of their vehicles. Unfortunately, I have to keep the dealer license plate frame on, or I can't get my unlimited free for life car wash/vacuum. Otherwise, I have a gorgeous black chrome frame that I would normally use..
Here's an idea: Put your nice black chrome tag frame on. Then, hot glue (or epoxy) some flat magnets to the back of that plastic dealer frame and just slap it on whenever needed. Ta-da!
 

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On the rare occasion I'm in a dealer for service, I specifically tell them NOT to wash my vehicle. The fewer hands are on it, the better. I do NOT want motorized brushes dragging across the paint.
Fortunately, it is a real good brushless car wash....and they hand finish with micro fiber towels...

I agree 100% about the motorized brushes....all it takes is one time and you never go through one, again.
 

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Discussion Starter #137
Update.

Took a 1250 mile trip to the Smoky Mountains this week. Pulled a motorcycle trailer with couple bikes. The truck performed great in all areas. No gear hunting (like a Tacoma with same load). Decent MPG at 19.5 average over the 1250 miles (5.5 mpg better than tacoma with same load). Loving the factory GPS.
 

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On the rare occasion I'm in a dealer for service, I specifically tell them NOT to wash my vehicle. The fewer hands are on it, the better. I do NOT want motorized brushes dragging across the paint.
I had to bring my S-10 in for the chevy lean, the dealer and mechanics brought out the detailer and they all stared at my truck and showered me with compliments. They could not believe how nice it looked. Yep, obsessiveness paid off that day. :grin:
It did take 10 years before I was mentally prepared to wet sand the clearcoat. :surprise:
Do you think I could order a new G2 with 2 extra coats of clear? Not even joking.
 

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Loving the factory GPS.
I have not used it too much because I love AA but did go up into the mountains well out of cell coverage this week to a star party. I used AA on the way up, it was fine since I had downloaded the area. It would give me the maps but not the route on the way back as there was no connection at the start point on the way back. This is something to remember. AA is fine with routes in non-covered areas but only when the starting point has a connection to load the route.

I know one can preload the area data but is there a way to preload the route in AA?

Long story short is that I used factory nav on the way back and it did fine. This is in an area where my buddy's Honda nav from 2014 failed horribly and gave totally wrong routing. So having the Garmin as a backup to AA is often needed and the Garmin is also better than the Honda nav from as recently as 2014.
 

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The only way I know to build truly custom routes with way points and stops, to work totally offline anytime without downloading any maps, is to use an older version (2013?) of Microsoft Streets & Trips with a USB GPS connected to a laptop. This was the de facto standard for road warriors before AA.
 
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