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Well about 3 months ago had ABS, VSA and brake light warning lamps all come on. Was like WTF on a 09 with 49K on it. So checked brake fluid, made sure all sensors where not disconnected or broken wires. Nothing. After about 2 days the lights turned off and been fine every since. Well last Sunday all the lights came back on again and once again questioning Honda quality of late. Checked everything again like I did prior and everything checked out but lights stayed on. Took it to a local shop to hook it up to see what code it was showing and had code 53. In their system the fix it to replace the ABS modulator, a $1000k part plus labor to fix. Well when they went to start the truck it wouldn't start, dead battery. They had to charge it to start it. Was funny since few minutes prior was telling the tech that I read online that a malfunctioning battery can cause weird things and read a few people online saying that a battery was causing ABS issues for them.
So went home looked up the code 53 and says ABS motor stuck on. Honda repair manual says first thing to check is ground on the connector and it was showing on the meter correctly. So figured would clean the ABS modulator connector, clean the chassis ground for the ABS modulator. Pulled out of the driveway and all lights went off instantly. Happy to report has been light free for 3 days now and many trips, all seems good.
Was thinking about the battery dying at the shop, and remembered that about a week or two prior to the first ABS issues I had accidently drained the battery with the stereo on. Quick charge and been good before first ABS lights came on. Now after being checked it is drained again? What are the odds? Thinking if the lights come on again, time for a battery change first since seems that can be an issue and cause very strange things to happen.
I'll report back on this in a few weeks with any updates, might help someone in case they get the dreaded ABS, VSA and brake lights on.
 

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Any time you kill the battery it's a good idea to disconnect it and wait a half-minute so the computer will do a 'reboot'. Otherwise you may get phantom symptoms that just get worse and worse. Odyssey owners are more familiar with that because of all the doors, interior lights, and children.

Your Idle Learn Procedure will have to be done as well to keep your mileage out of the toilet. Read this post.

See also the recent threads about the A/C ' stuck relay' problems, which kills batteries.

:act018:
 

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Goodview,

Just as a point of reference, I've disconnected my battery several times for maintenance or accessory add-ons, accidentally drained my battery overnight when I forgot and left the ignition switch on (in all cases, had to reset the radio code and lost the tripmeter info), never did the ILP... and I've never noticed any change in my mpg numbers.

Just sayin'.

Well, I did the ILP once sometime back... long after any of the above... and without pulling that #15 fuse or whatever it is... so I assume I actually accomplished nothing in the process.

Would you consider my mpg numbers within the range of a properly prepped RL? If so, I wonder why the ILP helps some but not others?

Not to disparage your very helpful info, but I'm not convinced that the ILP is a panacea for fixing mpg after a battery swap, disconnect, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Pulling the battery doesn't clear any ABS/VSA codes. They are stored on non-volatile memory and can ONLY be cleared with a ABS code reader. Its seperate of the standard OBDII codes that can be cleared with pulling the battery.
Also agree on the idle learn process, have had my battery disconnected for installations of stereo and things, never did this process yet get 19-21 mpg every tank. Sometimes things read on the net are not exactly true, more of internet lure. lol. :act024:
 

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A computer's attention span is as long as it's power cord (supply). Since the advent of computer controlled cars, the electrical system, and especially the battery, have been pretty important to make your car run the way it is supposed to. Marginal batteries and/or dirty battery terminals are often the culprit for a myriad of computer related malfunctions. It's not just Honda and traditionally, Ford has been the worst in this area. Inspect your terminals with every oil change and have them cleaned if you see any verdigris (green) or corrosion. Use the readily available battery protectors to slow the process down. It's also good to simply unplug, inspect and clean any device that is giving you a code. The mechanical action of unplugging and plugging might be all you need for the electricity to flow again and turn out the CEL.

BTW, when in doubt, I change my battery. My 2006 Ridgeline has over 180,000 miles on it and has had at least 4 batteries. The alternator is still doing great and I keep everything electrical very clean. So far, there are no ghosts in my machine. :D
 

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Goodview,
....... Not to disparage your very helpful info, but I'm not convinced that the ILP is a panacea for fixing mpg after a battery swap, disconnect, etc.
No offense taken. It seems to work WELL for some, and not matter to others. I'd suspect it depends on what the owner does with the Ridgeline after they reconnected the battery.

Examples from real life:

_ First guy puts in a new battery and drives to the store to pick up a pack of smokes. He has a smoke while he sits there reading his owner's manual and reprogramming his radio.
_ Next guy reconnects his battery, starts the engine and continues waxing the Ridge with the stereo blasting.
_ Third guy (battery shop employee) installs the new battery, starts the engine, takes 5 more minutes to check the charging circuit and then shuts it off in a parking spot.
_ Fourth guy, a chilly Albertan, puts in the new battery, starts the engine to prove it works, gathers his tools into his half-frozen hands and runs inside the house to warm back up. His Ridge idles for 20 minutes while he sips a coffee and psyches himself up to drive through the snowstorm.

None of them did the Idle Learn Procedure, but some of them may have come close enough (?)

Whatever it may cost to run the engine for 15 - 25 minutes has got to be worth it, if you get 2 or 3 more MPG out of it.

Here's a page from the [URL="http://www.ridgelineownersclub.c
 

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I HAVE A 2011 RIDGELINE W/ < 25k MILES. ( BOUGHT USED W/ 11K MILES 2 YEARS AGO) BRAKE LIGHT AND DASH LIGHT PROBLEMS BEGAN FIRST. HONDA DEALER THOUGHT IT WAS DUE TO FIRST OWNER INSTALLING/REMOVING REMOTE STARTER. REFERRED ME TO A LOCAL AFTERMARKET INSTALL SHOP. THEY FOUND A U-HAUL TRAILER WIRE HARNESS WHICH THEY REMOVED AND ALSO REPLACED THE RIDGELINE HEADLIGHT SWITCH. DASH AND BRAKE LIGHT PROBLEM FIXED BUT NOW VSA-ABS WARNING LIGHTS GO ON AND OFF.

HONDA DEALER THOUGHT THE BATTERY WAS BAD AND REPLACED IT. BACK AT THE HONDA DEALER TODAY STILL TRYING TO DETERMINE THE VSA-ABS WARNING PROBLEM. PROBLEM SEEMS TO HAVE THE HONDA DEALER STYMIED!!!! WHAT NOW?
 

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I HAVE A 2011 RIDGELINE W/ < 25k MILES. ( BOUGHT USED W/ 11K MILES 2 YEARS AGO) BRAKE LIGHT AND DASH LIGHT PROBLEMS BEGAN FIRST. HONDA DEALER THOUGHT IT WAS DUE TO FIRST OWNER INSTALLING/REMOVING REMOTE STARTER. REFERRED ME TO A LOCAL AFTERMARKET INSTALL SHOP. THEY FOUND A U-HAUL TRAILER WIRE HARNESS WHICH THEY REMOVED AND ALSO REPLACED THE RIDGELINE HEADLIGHT SWITCH. DASH AND BRAKE LIGHT PROBLEM FIXED BUT NOW VSA-ABS WARNING LIGHTS GO ON AND OFF.

HONDA DEALER THOUGHT THE BATTERY WAS BAD AND REPLACED IT. BACK AT THE HONDA DEALER TODAY STILL TRYING TO DETERMINE THE VSA-ABS WARNING PROBLEM. PROBLEM SEEMS TO HAVE THE HONDA DEALER STYMIED!!!! WHAT NOW?
 

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I'm currently having this issue, all mentioned lights on with a dead battery. My TPMS has been on for months though. I just left it alone and monitored my pressure. I guess I should
Have them check the brake switch and battery?
 

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Can anyone advise if replacing the brake switch is something that be DIY?


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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The multiple warning lights problem seems to go beyond the Pilot: Our '05 Odyssey is having similar issues. VSA, Airbag, Charging System, and Brake warning lights are coming on and going off 3-5 times every minute. Stereo system makes a popping noise. Windshield wipers only working on highest speed. No mechanical performance issues, though.

No solid answers from the dealership's mechanic. The only thing we've tried is replacing the battery.

I'm interested if any Honda Whisperers can give some insight.
 

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I'm bringing this old thread back to life as this just happened to me last night. I spent a few hours cleaning, had the doors open, then closed, etc. Finally, when backing out of the garage, the Engine light came on, Check Emission message flashed, as did ABS and VSA. In addition, my code reader would power up, but fail to link. I knew that there was no way that washing my truck could cause so many issues. So..
I did a search and came to this thread. I put a battery tender on it all night and this morning when I started the truck, all was well and the lights were out. The battery was the culprit.. I didn't try the OBD2 yet, but have a feeling that it's fine as well.
Just wanted to let everyone know that this can happen at any age or mileage. Mine is an 11 with 97K.
 
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