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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2 weeks ago, I was accelerating after a right turn, and the check engine light came on, then 2 seconds later the Vtm light came on. I could not accelerate past 5 mph after this. I pulled over, turn the truck off and upon restart, the Vtm light went off and I could drive normally. The check engine light stayed on though. Took her to the trusty Auto-zone and the code came back as the APP sensor. I do have to mention that I have a sprint booster, and it's looking mighty suspect right now. Anyone else experience this?
 

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Have you removed the sprint booster prior to (or after) the Auto Zone visit?

Did Auto Zone reset the code and if so, has it stayed off?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Removed after autozone visit, and yes they reset the computer. So far today, no problems, and that was after some heavy footed driving into work. On Saturday, if I put the pedal even halfway down, it would throw the code.
 

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If you have been using the Sprint Booster for a period of time without issue, then it may be defective now. How long of a warranty do they offer?

If the code does not come back in a few days and you really want to find out if it was just an errant code situation (it happens)...put it back on. That will be the best way to actualy verify. If you bring it to a shop or dealer, they will most likely look toward the aftermarket modification.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
If the code does not come back in a few days and you really want to find out if it was just an errant code situation (it happens)...put it back on. That will be the best way to actually verify. If you bring it to a shop or dealer, they will most likely look toward the aftermarket modification.
I didn't want to admit this at first, but it did happen a week ago. I was on my way to a softball game, the roads were slick, a got on it and the wheels slipped a little just when the lights came on. I cleared the code there by un-hooking the battery. Yes, i know it was not the right thing to do, but all was well for a week. They only offer a 30 day warranty. I bought it from Jason, and it did look refurbished, but since it worked, I didn't want to make any waves. Anyway, I have been driving like a maniac all day flooring it when possible and it hasn't happened yet. I just pulled the sticker off the sprint booster, and found out that was all that was holding it. Inside, there is an IC chip that has some surface scratches on it as well as extra solder on a female pin. I have been an electrical/electronics tech in the military for ten years, and this doesn't look factory stock. I'm not saying it was knowingly sold to me this way, but maybe this is why the company warranties them for only one month. Heck, even a new Iphone gets a year......
 

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Consider also, the device has to operate in engine compartment conditions. Normally, a 'chip' should survive that, as most are rated well beyond that kind of environment. (should be for 3 bills) But we don't really know the pedigree of the parts they use.
 

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As you say "I have been an electrical/electronics tech in the military for ten years"

You should know better then to look at ANY consumer soldering. It's all junk! Roach wires, extra blobs of solder, cold joints, it's all OK in the consumer world.

-W
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
True, I have seen more recondition cards that I can remember. If these boosters are man made istead of by machine, it would surprise me. There's not much on them, which would make me believe they are assembly line production made.
 

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maybe this is why the company warranties them for only one month. Heck, even a new Iphone gets a year......
Jason warranties it for a month.

When I bought it from him, he guaranteed me that the people at Sprintbooster warranty it for a year and even though they do not make them anymore I could handle any claims through him.

Is this not correct?

I also removed my Sprintbooster (about 2 months now) more for my own personal preference than any issue with it per say.
 

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As well as can be determined from the photo the assembly appears to have all its surface mounted components done by machine placement and reflow soldered. They appear to be acceptable to my eye.

The surface scratches on the ICs are intentional. It's to hide the manufacturer's part numbers to keep the assembly from being easily cloned.

The connector pins were hand soldered and could have been done much better. I also see what appears to be an excessive amount of solder on the small IC in the lower right of the photo. The solder appears to be touching the "via" hole. Probably not, can't be sure though, need an angled shot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I talked with Jason, and as per our conversation, I electrical taped the booster back together tightly and cleaned my plugs with contact cleaner. So far today I haven't thrown the code. As far as scratching the numbers, the main chip wasn't touch and could clearly be seen. You just cant see it on the photo. Plus, its the company, not Jason that does the 30 day warranty. Go to their website, they are also made in Greece.
 

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Pizzaman, you know your stuff :)

Glad the tape worked. I'm guess it came loose and something wasn't lining up properly. Get in contact with me if anything changes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Pizzaman, you know your stuff :)

Glad the tape worked. I'm guess it came loose and something wasn't lining up properly. Get in contact with me if anything changes.
Thanks Jason. I hope it does work, can't stand driving without it.
 

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OK, I have to plead stupid to what a sprint booster was so I Googled it. Now that I know I have to ask why?

Opens your throttle 25% faster (so you can burn gas faster?)

makes your car "feel" faster (when I was a teen a loud muffler did the same!)

Does not increase horsepower (see muffler comment above)

The problems you are having with it would indicate that their are issues with manufacture.

Have you guys been to the webpage and read the crap they spew,and after that you install one?

If bad connections to the sprint booster made your car run slow, what happens if it makes it run fast, mimicking a Toyota? You can't stop, crash, and then try to get Honda to foot the bill? What if you pull out in front of a Semi and the thing craps out and you can only do 10 mph and you get creamed from behind?

If you had a real issue with the engine, transmission, anything in your Ridge and the dealership/Honda knew that, can you say claims denied, warranty voided.

But I will say that this is just the thing the guy who liked to speed in his uncles jeep on his way to the ski slopes and wanted to know how fast the Ridgelines 4wd would work cause he wanted to go faster on the trip.

Like the comedian Carlos Mencia say "dee de dee"
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Instead of googling it, you should have searched this forum......dee da dee. Anyways, its a personal prefence. If you hate drive by wire lag, then you would understand. There are several other threads that touch on this subject and some of the points you brought up. Come on 500+ posts.
 

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All in good humor. I just love it when people do things to their vehicles, thinking they are engineers, then complain that it doesn't work right, it's broken, damn Honda, Ford, etc.

I could have searched the site, but I wanted to see what the manufacturer had to say, figured it was snake oil, bingo! Another one of those "run your car on water" things.

The dee de dee was not directed at you, but at the group of people who believe all the claims of this stuff. Passed you in both lanes. The number of posts has nothing to do with it.

Honda engineers are very very good at what they do. The guy etching circuit boards in his basement in Peru, I don't think so.

:act060:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
All in good humor. I just love it when people do things to their vehicles, thinking they are engineers, then complain that it doesn't work right, it's broken, damn Honda, Ford, etc.
Hahaha. great jokes, anyway I never claimed to be an engineer. When something breaks, the first thing I trouble shoot are things that were last touched. This is my sixth Honda, so I kinda got a feel for the product I'm driving. As for Honda engineering, of course they are great, but anything can be improved. If you write everything off as snake oil, then you must live a bitter life.....
 

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Hahaha. great jokes, anyway I never claimed to be an engineer. When something breaks, the first thing I trouble shoot are things that were last touched. This is my sixth Honda, so I kinda got a feel for the product I'm driving. As for Honda engineering, of course they are great, but anything can be improved. If you write everything off as snake oil, then you must live a bitter life.....
Really has nothing to do with being an engineer. I think this forum is filled with ideas about areas that could have been better engineered, even though deficient areas are ofen the result of bean counters, not engineers. A fair amount of truth in what you say. It is all about throttle feel, and not performance, per se. In the old days, it was not uncommon for folks to get stronger or weaker throttle return springs, sometimes due to wear, but also with regards to how it feels.
This is a case of how much throttle movement in response to how much the accelerator pedal is depressed. Certainly a personal choice. It is just a shame such a basically simple device is used to rip $300 off of folks. But a clear example of what happens when there is no competition. For that money though, it could also have been better made.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
As you can see from the simple electronics from the chip, we are not paying for that, but the program. Same thing from upgrading to the newest windows. Maybe not that extreme, but crap the booster works, and if you could try it, then you would know. I love my RL, and the Booster makes it way more fun to drive..... Too bad they are done making them, you'll never know....BTW thanks Jason.
 
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