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Discussion Starter #1
RTL-T prewired for the bed inverter?

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Does anyone know if the RTL-T is prewired for the bed inverter? I don't want to put the Honda inverter in, but do want to add a 12v. power outlet there in the same area. If not, I'll take off of the + power wire in the trailer plug or route a wire up to the battery and add a fuse.

:nerd:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
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I wanted a 12v. outlet in the bed of the Ridgeline RTL-T to plug in a air inflator for my pontoon boats, a aux light and anything else that might come up. I was hoping it was going to be pre-wired for the 120v. inverter the RTL-E has, but it wasn't. I originally was going to tap into the + power wire on the trailer 7 pin outlet, but found out it only has power when the motor is running, not in the accessory mode or when turned off, so, I will run a fused wire directly to the battery. Here are a few installation pictures.

Here is what the bed looks like withe the panel removed:





I did use the ground location in the middle of the picture where there were two stock wires already:





The top rail plastic has one screw and slides off like the tailgate top guard does.





Here is the backside with the fuse holder and the outlet installed:





Here is what it looks like all back together:





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Nicely done and the pictures are useful. Looks like you also added some rails...
 

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One concern I have is that you have your fuse at the outlet rather than close to the battery. The fuse will work fine to protect from any overdraws from the objects plugged into the outlet. On the other hand, if your power wire develops a short along it's long length then you you could have a big mess on your hands.

One other issue is that you have no protection against running down your battery. I guess protection against such an occurrence is a more recent feature of vehicles and with a bit of caution it shouldn't be an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
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Like I said, but it may not have clear because there is a fuse next to the outlet, I will be adding a fuse also at the battery. I'm not worried about running down the battery as the outlet won't be used very long each time I use it.
 

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Please show pictures of how you run the cable. I will be doing the same mod and would appreciate knowing how you did it
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Nicely done and the pictures are useful. Looks like you also added some rails...
Thanks. The rails are aluminum seat track material that is used to secure seats in airplanes. I got it at Boeing Surplus (I also work at Boeing) several years ago and had used it on my previous truck bed. There are several different quick attaching fittings (rings, studs, strap clamps, etc.) that give a lot of versatility in where you can place them. I did have to machine some aluminum adapters/spacers so they would also still hold the sides on like stock.

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Great post! What tools did you need to get the panel off? Looks like there are some tri slot screws or caps that have to be removed. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Great post! What tools did you need to get the panel off? Looks like there are some tri slot screws or caps that have to be removed. Thanks!
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The screws do have a funny three line pattern on them, but they are T-30 torx and the hold down brackets are T-50. You will need a phillips screwdriver for the one screw in the top rail. It does take a little finesse to get the panel off, hard to explain, but not that bad.
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2006 Ridgeline RTS in Steel Blue
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Congrats Randucci, Really great idea and helpful mod.

This is the kind of stuff that has made the ROC so great over the years.

Keep updating this thread with "approximate run times" of different devices, and any issue you run into down the road.
 

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This is awesome, great job! Can you post a few pics or links of the parts you used? Like the 12v outlet and the wiring? Thanks a lot!
 

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Thanks. The rails are aluminum seat track material that is used to secure seats in airplanes. I got it at Boeing Surplus (I also work at Boeing) several years ago and had used it on my previous truck bed. There are several different quick attaching fittings (rings, studs, strap clamps, etc.) that give a lot of versatility in where you can place them. I did have to machine some aluminum adapters/spacers so they would also still hold the sides on like stock.

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Very cool rails, great idea.
Any idea how much weight they can handle? I'm guessing it's a factor of their strength and how they are attached to the truck.
 

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Thanks. The rails are aluminum seat track material that is used to secure seats in airplanes. I got it at Boeing Surplus (I also work at Boeing) several years ago and had used it on my previous truck bed. There are several different quick attaching fittings (rings, studs, strap clamps, etc.) that give a lot of versatility in where you can place them. I did have to machine some aluminum adapters/spacers so they would also still hold the sides on like stock.

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Would you go into a little more detail on how you mounted the tracks? I want to do the exact thing to my future truck but havent figured out a way to bolt the track to the truck.

Best I an figure is you used the bolt holes for holding the plastic on the sides and just made a washer thick enough to fill the space between the track and the bottom of the plastic where the bolt head would snug the sides down. Longer bolt secures the plastic side and the track at the same time.

I may have found the source for the same thing...
https://www.car-truck-accessories.com/p-141-core-trax-tie-down-systems.aspx
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Would you go into a little more detail on how you mounted the tracks? I want to do the exact thing to my future truck but havent figured out a way to bolt the track to the truck.

Best I an figure is you used the bolt holes for holding the plastic on the sides and just made a washer thick enough to fill the space between the track and the bottom of the plastic where the bolt head would snug the sides down. Longer bolt secures the plastic side and the track at the same time.

I may have found the source for the same thing...
https://www.car-truck-accessories.com/p-141-core-trax-tie-down-systems.aspx
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I removed the stock fasteners and made some aluminum spacers so the rails would not rid on the plastic bed sides. I made the spacers so the bed sides attached the same way by just tightening down on the dimpled area and fit into the cutout so the rails mounted solid to the metal bed surface while also holding the plastic bed sides firm on the metal inter surface. The spacers had to be two different lengths because the back of the cab side has a deeper dimple in the plastic bed liner than the two sides. The rubber washer is to keep the plastic bed lined tight up against the metal inner surface of the bed. I have a machine shop in my garage, so they were easy to make on the lathe.

I want to mount a Yakima LOADWARRIOR or MEGAWARRIOR about 15" above the bed floor and since there is no cross bar mounting sysytem that will work on our bed sides, I will be making some custom mounts that will use the upper hold downs in the near future, stay tuned!

Here are a couple pictures of the aluminum spacers I made. A countersunk head was used on the fastener so it wouldn't interfere with one of the mounts if needed in that position. There are many different manufactures of the railing, many can be found on Amazon.








 

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I want to mount a Yakima LOADWARRIOR or MEGAWARRIOR about 15" above the bed floor and since there is no crossbar mounting system that will work on our bedsides, I will be making some custom mounts that will use the upper hold downs in the near future, stay tuned!
I am interested in this since I have a Megawarrior left over from my wife's SUV. Please post an update.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
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