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The closer you can get the inverter to the battery, the better. This is because, with DC power, you need heavy gauge wire over short distances to carry the full current (and VERY heavy gauge over longer distances), whereas with AC power, good old 12-gauge will work for extended lengths.

However, you will also need to keep the inverter away from excess moisture and temperature extremes, which is likely why Honda mounts it in the cabin.

Do your research on wire gauge needed to carry your DC wattage of choice for the distance you need. You don't want to skimp here, and overkill will be safer in this regard.
 

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Anyone find the part number for the RTL-E inverter? since the bed panels are so easy to remove couldn't we just take the inverter, and switch from the RTL-E, and wire ourselves? Is there programming in the accessory mode that hinders or won't allow it? Or is the switch a physical switch?
 

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what do you want to power?

The rtl-e has the inverter located behind the rear seat next to the factory subwoofer. It's rate @ 150/400watts (engine off/on). Kind of wimpy in my opinion. You have the option of tapping into the trailer harness which is rated for 240watts. If you plan on lowering something with a motor, consider buying a true sine wave inverter. It will run the motor more efficiently.

I've been thinking about adding lifepo4 under the front passenger seat. Will probably raise the passenger seat while I'm at it. The whole usb-c pd for laptops is making me re-evaluate buying an inverter. A 12v usb-c pd adapter would be a lot more efficient & cheaper, too.
 
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If I get back into camping it would be nice to have a plug in the bed to power a CPAP machine. I would get a couple of isolated 6v deep cycle batteries installed in the trunk and not use the starter battery. Of course, I would have to hire it done since I am partially colorblind and who knows what would end up wired to what. So I am curious if others have wired a power source in the factory spot in the bed.
 

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If I get back into camping it would be nice to have a plug in the bed to power a CPAP machine. I would get a couple of isolated 6v deep cycle batteries installed in the trunk and not use the starter battery. Of course, I would have to hire it done since I am partially colorblind and who knows what would end up wired to what. So I am curious if others have wired a power source in the factory spot in the bed.
If I were you, I would check to see if there is an option to run the cpap off 12V DC & just get an adapter to run straight from a battery. Even getting a dc to dc voltage converter would be worth the power savings. Also it may be worth looking at getting a lithium battery. Remember that the usable capacity difference between a lithium & a lead acid is around 4:1. So not only is lithium lighter, you can go with a smaller capacity for the same run time. Also lithium has higher recharge life. Heck, it might be portable enough that you don't even need to install it. So in the end it may not cost you too much more to go with lithium.
 
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Hopping on this thread - I want to modify the cover plate but before I do that, does anyone have the part number for the AC outlet well "flip" cover that protects the outside and is like a part of the bed? It has PP-GF30 printed on it, but Googling that gives me a radiator shroud. Thanks
 

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Hopping on this thread - I want to modify the cover plate but before I do that, does anyone have the part number for the AC outlet well "flip" cover that protects the outside and is like a part of the bed? It has PP-GF30 printed on it, but Googling that gives me a radiator shroud. Thanks
Are you able to rummage through the schematic here? >> https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genui...t=4,3240;et=2,9)&Location=bed-floor-cargo,,13

BTW, you talking about this flip cover>
 

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Has anyone done/asked for this? The button is blanked on the Sport model's dash and the panel in the bed is just blocked off.

If so, how much did/would it cost? It'd be nice to have something to plug my compressor into to reinflate my and my buddy's tires before hitting pavement again.

Just an FYI I don't own one but I'm pre-approved and plan on buying one sometime late next month. Just wondering if this is something I can ask for as an option alongside the utility package.
 

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Has anyone done/asked for this? The button is blanked on the Sport model's dash and the panel in the bed is just blocked off.

If so, how much did/would it cost? It'd be nice to have something to plug my compressor into to reinflate my and my buddy's tires before hitting pavement again.

Just an FYI I don't own one but I'm pre-approved and plan on buying one sometime late next month. Just wondering if this is something I can ask for as an option alongside the utility package.
Short answer: The AC outlet cannot be added to lower trims. Even if you had the button, the inverter (mounted behind the rear seat), and the outlet mounted in the bed, the wiring harnesses are different.

Also, the AC outlet is limited to 400 watts (about 3.3 amps). Most AC-powered air compressors require considerably more power.
 

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Has anyone done/asked for this? The button is blanked on the Sport model's dash and the panel in the bed is just blocked off.

If so, how much did/would it cost? It'd be nice to have something to plug my compressor into to reinflate my and my buddy's tires before hitting pavement again.

Just an FYI I don't own one but I'm pre-approved and plan on buying one sometime late next month. Just wondering if this is something I can ask for as an option alongside the utility package.
If you haven’t bought the truck yet and need that feature, it’d be a whole lot easier to buy one that has it already installed.

I’ve tried to run an air pump to blow up tubes and the tires off the centre console 12V, and although it was rated for 12V use it would reliably blow a bunch of fuses after using it for 5 min, strangely including fuses for the rear trailer lights. I actually spent half of a day re-wiring new trailer lights thinking that was the issue, before figuring out it was the truck fuse LOL
 

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Short answer: The AC outlet cannot be added to lower trims. Even if you had the button, the inverter (mounted behind the rear seat), and the outlet mounted in the bed, the wiring harnesses are different.

Also, the AC outlet is limited to 400 watts (about 3.3 amps). Most AC-powered air compressors require considerably more power.
I see, so I may as well install one aftermarket. I'd like the outlet in that passenger side bed cubby though, if possible.
 

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I see, so I may as well install one aftermarket. I'd like the outlet in that passenger side bed cubby though, if possible.
You can essentially run a household exterior rated outlet and wire up to the inverter. May not be OEM looking as you may need to buy a bed panel separately. You can also wire one underneath the rear bumper and by your trailer hitch. Regardless, choose where you want to install the inverter as the distance from the battery to the inverter determines the gauge of wire you will need to run (battery to invt).
 

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My thoughts on this is unless you have the built in and know it’s somewhat of a showroom gimmick my way of seeing this is separate system.

put inverter near as possible to desired outlet location

wire inverter with battery starter cables to battery, then put a marine battery isolating solenoid like Blue Seas sells as what I remember as a ACR solenoid

what this does is when vehicle battery is above storage battery it will charge and connect unless either of the two following things are wrong.

1 storage battery is fully charged or 2 vehicle battery is somewhat discharged and giving power away might make the vehicle not start.

also it has a bypass you can use to jumpstart your vehicle from the storage/ inverter battery if you need that.

perhaps put a built in charger for the inverter battery
Note these systems are separate unless some Extra charge is available to the inverter battery from the vehicle battery Or you need to jumpstart you vehicle battery - note no current moves through the inverter from the vehicle so a big enough wire set for jumpstarts is all needed

inverter to its battery might be as big as possible even huge if you have or get a deal for starter or welding cables

inv battery in trunk lets you open doors and stuff with totally dead or missing vehicle battery by pressing manual override button or triggering it with remote switch if you know location
 

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The problem with putting the inverter further from the battery is the required gauge of cable to carry current to the inverter. The shorter that cable, the more efficient it can be.

I'd think if someone REALLY needed AC power, it would probably be easiest to use a second battery and have a switched connection to the vehicle's battery. While driving (or even if the 400W inverter is turned on) it can charge up. There are some charge controllers ("Overlanders" like to use two battery setups) that can do this. Some have solar panel tie ins as well.

In the Ridgeline, one could build a simple box, put a battery and inverter in it and put it in the trunk and either open the trunk to access the outlet(s), or cut a pass-through and have the outlets available in the side box where the normal inverter output is.
 
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