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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings All,

I had a 2011 Ridgeline RTS that I traded for a NEW 2017 Ridgeline RTL-T. I'm pretty excited as this is the first new vehicle I've ever had. But, on with the story. The backup lights on the Ridgeline are inadequate in absolute darkness. Absolute darkness is often encountered in Central Florida.

The first thing I checked was the fuse for the backup lights--10 Amps. That seems like a lot until then I realized it uses incandescent bulbs. I got a set of JDM ASTAR Max 50W LED Bulbs. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MC6RQAM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also got a pair of 36w Flood LED Work Lights to hang under the back bumper. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IZ9VAOI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That gives me a total of 172 watts for the back up lights. Using trusty Ohms law, I get 172 watts divided by 12 volts equals 14.33333 amps. Damn, the 10 Amp fuse will pop !!

Now to plan B: Leave the JDM ASTAR Max 100 watts of LEDs on its own circuit and get 8.33333 amps.
72 watts of Flood LED Work Lights on the trailer backup light circuit gets me 6 Amps on a 7.5 amp fuse. This will work until I tow a trailer with back up lights and then that circuit will pop.

I'm not an electrician--more like a brave enthusiast. Is my thinking correct or did I take a wrong turn. Please respond with small words so that I can follow :wink:

JFCisme
 

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Depending on what you want the light for. I have V-LEDS in my backup lights sockets and one of their license plate led bars. Unfortunately that one is discontinued. They do have another one coming out.
If you want work lights, the way I got around that with another vehicle was to run a pair of regular fog lights with relay setup. The down side is you have to extend harness to back of truck. Not hard to do, you just need the correct length of wire and if running under the vehicle a length of wire loom to protect the wires and a bunch of tie wraps. Then you have a total sepperate circuit. Or look into one of the newer led light bars. They do make smaller ones. And then just tap into the reverse circuit of the trailer harness.

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I would guess the wattage shown is at maximum voltage (32V in this case). Since you'll be running at 14.5V your amperage will be less. While LEDS do somewhat follow ohms law, it's not linear. Just a guess, but the bumper mounted ones are likely running at around 14W to 16W each
 
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First off on your calculations, that's 50 watts total, not per bulb. Also, that's a comparison figure, not actual draw. These bulbs actually draw equal to about 10 watts as a pair. The work lights are about 3 watts draw each (look down in the specs), so you have a total draw of about 16 watts. Under a couple of amps.

You have to look at lumens not watts as the effective light is different from each type of source. Also, sellers, whether on Ebay or Amazon seem to always list the (apparent) wattage per pair rather than each.
 

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Now to plan B: Leave the JDM ASTAR Max 100 watts of LEDs on its own circuit and get 8.33333 amps.
72 watts of Flood LED Work Lights on the trailer backup light circuit gets me 6 Amps on a 7.5 amp fuse. This will work until I tow a trailer with back up lights and then that circuit will pop.
Could you install a switch to cut power to the truck's backup lights during towing?
 

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I'm not sure if I would even bother worrying about voltage and draw. I installed two 55 watt tractor work lights on the back of my popup. Wired them to come on as reverse lights on the trailer. LED's were not around then. Never had one blown fuse. I did run 10 gauge wire to help with current flow and help to not over heat due to draw on a smaller wire. Was wired through the trailer hitch connector. I did worry if it would blow fuses, it did not. LED's I would just wire em up and light up the night.

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you Elkhunter and SK17touring for your replies. You have to read the specs to realize that the bulbs are operating at 10 watts each and not the max of 50 watts. And the 36 watt flood light is not operating at 32 volts. They are trying to get the casual observer.

The moral to the story is to read the fine print. All of this can run on the same circuit and I won't have to mess with the trailer wiring.

Thank you !!!
 

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Greetings All,

I had a 2011 Ridgeline RTS that I traded for a NEW 2017 Ridgeline RTL-T. I'm pretty excited as this is the first new vehicle I've ever had. But, on with the story. The backup lights on the Ridgeline are inadequate in absolute darkness. Absolute darkness is often encountered in Central Florida.

The first thing I checked was the fuse for the backup lights--10 Amps. That seems like a lot until then I realized it uses incandescent bulbs. I got a set of JDM ASTAR Max 50W LED Bulbs. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MC6RQAM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also got a pair of 36w Flood LED Work Lights to hang under the back bumper. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IZ9VAOI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That gives me a total of 172 watts for the back up lights. Using trusty Ohms law, I get 172 watts divided by 12 volts equals 14.33333 amps. Damn, the 10 Amp fuse will pop !!

Now to plan B: Leave the JDM ASTAR Max 100 watts of LEDs on its own circuit and get 8.33333 amps.
72 watts of Flood LED Work Lights on the trailer backup light circuit gets me 6 Amps on a 7.5 amp fuse. This will work until I tow a trailer with back up lights and then that circuit will pop.

I'm not an electrician--more like a brave enthusiast. Is my thinking correct or did I take a wrong turn. Please respond with small words so that I can follow :wink:

JFCisme
Curious. Amazon says those bulbs don't fit my vehicle.
 

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Curious. Amazon says those bulbs don't fit my vehicle.
The first one? It's a 7440 bulb. It will fit the reverse lights.

Edit: Found the specs on these. They say they have 10 5W LED chips, which is where they get their 50 Watts. But, they are rated at 950 lumens per bulb. The ones that I used (and recommend) have 21 5 W chips and are 1250 lumens per bulb. Draw is 6 Watts per bulb.
 

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Adding back up lights under the bumper
That is my plan also. One light, to the right of the hitch, and change the stock reverse lights to LED pupil burners. :grin:

Something *like* this, not sure which one I will get until I get the truck...or if..
The LED part is 5.5" wide, but the bolt holes in the bracket are 8.5". I am not sure if it will fit in the space next to the hitch. I need a truck to measure. it is only 1.25" high so it will not stick out the bottom of the truck.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JKUQNS...lid=1DP9G2752HHP7&coliid=I3ONKDACV4R6A6&psc=1
 
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