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So, my RTL-T did not have the AC power outlet option in the back. You can clearly see where it belongs.

Does anyone know IF it can be added after the fact or is it like the BSM its factory install ONLY ?

D
 

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So, my RTL-T did not have the AC power outlet option in the back. You can clearly see where it belongs.



Does anyone know IF it can be added after the fact or is it like the BSM its factory install ONLY ?



D


I'm sure it can. I've added outlets in my Accord for the kids in the back seats. Wires and all.


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So, my RTL-T did not have the AC power outlet option in the back. You can clearly see where it belongs.

Does anyone know IF it can be added after the fact or is it like the BSM its factory install ONLY ?

D
You peaked my interest so I went looking. I brought up the parts list for the RTL-E.

The issue I have in the Sport (which you think would come with a bed outlet, but a rant for another time) is that there is no button for it. I'm curious if the wiring harness is there, but just needs the switch and then the outlet itself.

You would have to get the outlet fixture and then the plastic surround in the rear box. Mine doesn't have the cutout. I need to also check the fuse setup to see if it has an inline, which I would assume it does.

it all comes down to the wiring harnesses being the same across platforms... which I kind of doubt but who knows.

2017 RIDGELINE Crew Cab RTL (E) 6-Spd Auto
BODY / AIR CONDITIONING : BED FLOOR - CARGO - for the outlet parts.

2017 RIDGELINE Crew Cab RTL (E) 6-Spd Auto
ELECTRICAL / EXHAUST / HEATER / FUEL : SWITCH - for the #14 switch

PartNo: 32108-T6Z-A40 is the rear wiring harness for the RLT-E

PartNo: 32108-T6Z-A00 is the rear wiring harness for the Sport

Based on the different wiring harness PN's I think we are out of luck... but I'll remove that side panel in the bed just to check >:)
 

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Thanks for this info. I did call two different dealerships this morning and both said it could not be done.
Thats a shame.
 

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I wired up an inverter in my wife's Accord....I don't see why the same thing can't be done in a G2 truck bed.

1) if possible, get an inverter that is very weather resistant (like for RV use), and try to weather-proof the installation. Be aware that the inverter also needs to breathe and cool itself, they can put out a lot if heat. I'm not sure if Honda mounts the inverter in the cab, or back behind the bed wall, but in the cab would be much better for weather/water/temp issues and overall longevity of the inverter.

2) Honda seems to think 400w maximum is a good idea, perhaps for battery longevity and integrity. If you want more than 400w, consider adding a second battery, and make it a deep-cycle marine battery with high amp capacity. Bigger inverter will need more cooling and larger wire.

3) run a heavy gauge wire from the battery positive terminal back to the inverter. There are online calculators where you can figure the gauge needed for the amperage you need to carry. 400w / 12v = 33.3 amps. Make sure you have an inline fuse that is rated for that amperage (36A). 2 gauge wire should work, 1/0 gauge would be better. If you go with a larger inverter, say 1500w, you may need 3/0 gauge or larger. Use copper wire, not aluminum or copper-clad aluminum (CCA). Go with wire made of many small strands as opposed to a few large strands. Quality jumper cable wires may work for shorter runs and be less expensive. Don't go too small on the wire, or you may have a fire on your hands. Bigger is better, but also much more expensive and harder to work with.

4) run a shorter wire from the inverter to nearby chassis for ground. This will probably need to be 6 or 8 gauge for 400w.

5) be aware that Honda uses a battery discharge protection system. Your home-made inverter will not have this, so figure out how long you can run whatever before you deplete your battery (again, there are online calculators to help you out).

6) with inverter in cabin, you will need to run wire back to the outlets in the bed. This will be 120v, so 400w / 120v = 3.3A. Smaller wire can be used for this run.

With all of that being said, I am NOT an electrician, and may have made some mistakes in the above diatribe. Google is your friend, start searching/reading about car inverters and best installation practices, tips, etc.
 

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You would think the RTL-T would come with the outlet, so it doesn't appear until the E and BE? I just assumed that would be Standard in anything above the Sport.

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...... I'm curious if the wiring harness is there, but just needs the switch and then the outlet itself......it all comes down to the wiring harnesses being the same across platforms... which I kind of doubt but who knows. .....

Based on my experiences with my 2009 and 2011 Accords, Honda usually doesn't do this. When the wiring harness part numbers vary between the trims, the wires and connectors needed for the up-trim options are usually missing. I found this when I installed OEM bluetooth, backup camera, overhead console lights, etc in those Accords. The only sure way to check is physical examination (are the needed connectors there), or if it's missing wires into an existing connector (like I had to deal with), then you'll need access to the wiring diagrams in Honda Service Express. The solutions for that are replacing the wiring harness (often expensive, and always very difficult), or fabricating a jumper or daughter harness as necessary with the needed wires and connectors, and/or adding individual new connector pins for those missing wires into existing connectors (and those are really hard to do because individual pin part numbers are rarely in the parts catalog, so I had to buy a donor harness and dissect its pins for use in the jumper harness...). Sorry, not trying to be a debbie downer here, but it can be hard - especially with deep integration points like OEM switch, current sensor and auto-shutoff, 2 power levels, etc. Going the aftermarket way as @longboat suggests may prove easier.

.... I'm not sure if Honda mounts the inverter in the cab, or back behind the bed wall, but in the cab would be much better for weather/water/temp issues and overall longevity of the inverter....

ROC member @it8ezbngrn did a thread on an amp and sub install. He posted the below photo (inside cab, behind the rear seat), and said the OEM AC inverter is on the right (which I've marked so), and his aftermarket amp is on the left

ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1489811890.532958.jpg
 

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What turns off the inverter power if you exceed 400w. Could you replace the inverter with a more powerful unit (800 or 1200) and not have it kick off if exceed 400w? Is the existing wire heavy enough to carry 800 or 1200w inverter?

Thanks
 

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Upping the inverter to 800W would require a wire of approx. 6awg and to go to 1200w would need about a 4awg wire. Both of those approximations assume an acceptable loss of up to 10% (non-critical use)! Should a lower loss figure be desired for critical use, 3% recommended, then the wire gauges increase to 4awg and 2awg, respectively. I believe the Honda provides a 10gauge wire which is for 400w/33amps (w/up to 10% loss). Generally the shutoff for over draw is in the inverter not the vehicle.

Sean
 

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I own a '17 RTLT, but didn't opt for the in-bed power outlet option. Does anyone know if this is something that can be added without much problem? Has anyone installed one aftermarket by themselves and can you offer tips, etc? Thanks in advance!!!
 

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I saw a thread about this a while back. You'll need to run heavy gauge wire from the battery back to the bed. Be certain to fuse it up by the battery!
 
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The closer you can get the inverter to the battery, the better. This is because, with DC power, you need heavy gauge wire over short distances to carry the full current (and VERY heavy gauge over longer distances), whereas with AC power, good old 12-gauge will work for extended lengths.

However, you will also need to keep the inverter away from excess moisture and temperature extremes, which is likely why Honda mounts it in the cabin.

Do your research on wire gauge needed to carry your DC wattage of choice for the distance you need. You don't want to skimp here, and overkill will be safer in this regard.
 

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Anyone find the part number for the RTL-E inverter? since the bed panels are so easy to remove couldn't we just take the inverter, and switch from the RTL-E, and wire ourselves? Is there programming in the accessory mode that hinders or won't allow it? Or is the switch a physical switch?
 

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what do you want to power?

The rtl-e has the inverter located behind the rear seat next to the factory subwoofer. It's rate @ 150/400watts (engine off/on). Kind of wimpy in my opinion. You have the option of tapping into the trailer harness which is rated for 240watts. If you plan on lowering something with a motor, consider buying a true sine wave inverter. It will run the motor more efficiently.

I've been thinking about adding lifepo4 under the front passenger seat. Will probably raise the passenger seat while I'm at it. The whole usb-c pd for laptops is making me re-evaluate buying an inverter. A 12v usb-c pd adapter would be a lot more efficient & cheaper, too.
 
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If I get back into camping it would be nice to have a plug in the bed to power a CPAP machine. I would get a couple of isolated 6v deep cycle batteries installed in the trunk and not use the starter battery. Of course, I would have to hire it done since I am partially colorblind and who knows what would end up wired to what. So I am curious if others have wired a power source in the factory spot in the bed.
 
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