Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all!

I really want to change the door speakers in the ridgeline.
the price range is somewhere between 100-150$ a pair.
I was thinking a set of Alpine SPR-60 200W RMS 6.5" Type-R 2-Way Coaxial. But the problem is I don´t know if it fits in the doors, or do you know better one´s.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
I used Polk Audio db 651s for front doors they are a shallow mount speaker. There is not a lot of depth in the door . Check crutchfield for reference as to what fits and what won't.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,795 Posts
Hi all!

I really want to change the door speakers in the ridgeline.
the price range is somewhere between 100-150$ a pair.
I was thinking a set of Alpine SPR-60 200W RMS 6.5" Type-R 2-Way Coaxial. But the problem is I don´t know if it fits in the doors, or do you know better one´s.
The Alpine's will definitely fit with use of an adapter.

Have you considered going with a component 2-way system? There's a bunch of info on putting tweeters in the factory location on the forum that might help get you thinking in that direction. Check out this thread. http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...39073-pimp-your-factory-sound-15-minutes.html
You'll see lots of forum members very happy with the improvement of raising the sound up from the bottom of the door.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Will do Ohsix :) what kind of speaker do you have? and are you happy with the sound?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,795 Posts
Will do Ohsix :) what kind of speaker do you have? and are you happy with the sound?
The short answer is:
Tweeters: Dayton Audio AMT mini-8
Dayton Audio AMT Mini-8 Air Motion Transformer Tweeter 8 Ohm

AMT_Mini_In.jpg

Mid woofer: Mid Woofer Silver Flute W17RC38-04
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c.../silver-flute-w17rc38-04-ohm-6-1/2-wool-cone/

The tweeters are a perfect 'interference' fit in the factory grill, requiring no attachment method, wire ties or glue to keep them in place. I adore the sound of ribbon tweeters - and in particular Dr. Heil's Air Motion Transformer design. The downside to these is termination impedance of 8Ω - blending with a 4Ω mid/woofer is a small challenge. The upside is: their impedance curve is ruler flat. Amplifiers like that - A LOT

The Silver Flutes are not as easy to install. The magnet structure is too large to fit thru the oddly shaped opening provided by the factory. I choose them primarily for the combination of cast frame, butyl surround, beautiful frequency curve extending out to 5kHz, and price. Excellent value here. So, if making your own adapters and cutting door metal doesn't bother you, they are a good choice.

Woofer_2.jpg
Woofer_8.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,171 Posts
What is that cone material? Reinforced paper (with Kevlar fibers?) I went with polypropylene for weather resistance. JL Audio C5 5-1/4" components, so I wouldn't have to cut metal. But I will admit the mounting brackets introduced some resonance. :(

Edit: I see the Silver Flutes have wool + paper cones.

Chip H.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,671 Posts
I would start with the tweeters, and I would not shy away from a set of Madison 4 ohm 5 1/2" silver flutes for $20 each, they will not only improve bass and sound quality but also play well full range from the factory HU and most likely, the hole won't need to be cut bigger.

Some of the Madison scanpeak drivers, are simply among the best quality sound drivers for the money and can be compared to some car speakers costing 6-10 times as much.

The issue has been paper cones, not treated to stand water and high humidity, although there are variations of the scanpeak cones made or threated with aluminum that may prevent damage, longevity is unknown. Also in order to get these to sound good in a door, the doors need good deadening and covering of the inner door openings once more power is used to drive them.

Some of them are so cheap and perform so good, that many car audio addicts, use them for a year or two then replace them with new ones or other models to seek improvement or different SQ.

I agree that our doors, have weak and thin metal, once cut it only gets weaker, I have a layer of Dynamat on the inner door behind the speaker. With some expensive car speaker drivers like expensive Morels, with neodymium magnets and aluminum baskets, it's a joke since they are so light it makes no difference, except when driven with peaks of near 200 watts. If you put a 3-4 lb speaker on the door, with a big magnet, it will need some reinforcement, maybe 1/2" HDPE or ABS plastic on both sides like a sandwich for a more firm support and prevent vibrations, resonaces and rattles
 
  • Like
Reactions: H-ridge

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,350 Posts
I used Polk Audio db 651s for front doors they are a shallow mount speaker. There is not a lot of depth in the door . Check crutchfield for reference as to what fits and what won't.
Do tweeters first.

Second vote for the Polks. Shop around to find specials. They are affordable, all weather and will fit. they work well with the factory head unit without additional amplification. You can purchase speaker adapters to install the door speakers, but I was able to "modify" the existing speaker frames (read that cut them up) and mount the Polks to the existing speaker frames. Sorry no pics.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,795 Posts
What is that cone material? Reinforced paper (with Kevlar fibers?) I went with polypropylene for weather resistance. JL Audio C5 5-1/4" components, so I wouldn't have to cut metal. But I will admit the mounting brackets introduced some resonance. :(

Edit: I see the Silver Flutes have wool + paper cones.

Chip H.
Yes, the cones are hybrid paper/wool composite. There's no specific mention of treatment I've seen but casual experiments indicate there is some sort of coating or treatment blended in the fiber mix. The surface is smooth, water droplets bead and don't soak in over time.

IME: unless the cone is untreated paper, water kills the spider before it does the cone itself. Since the cone sits a little over 3/4" away from the interior space of the door, my only concern is repeated exposure to moisture eventually weakening the spider/cone throat/VC intersection. If that happens, the Flutes are relatively inexpensive. I'm much more comfortable having a high quality, high power handling, excellent performing driver that's relatively cheap to replace than I am with losing a high dollar driver that only provides marginal performance increases.

Prior to installing the Flutes, I had 6 3/4" cheapo Kenwood with standard plastic adaptors. The assembly was not as rigid as could be had with more robust materials - so I can see how plastic would negatively react to the speaker attached to it. Not to mention the poor mechanical attachment of bracket to door making things even worse.

I made these adaptors. Foreground is a plate fabricated of 1/2" MDF laminated with 1/4" ABS, background is the standard plastic adaptor commonly supplied with packaged speaker solutions from Crutchfield and Sonic Electronix.

Woofer_6.jpg

Rubber coating protects the MDF from ambient moisture typically present inside a door.

Woofer_9.jpg

Although the 6 3/4" Flutes are heavy, the combination of robust mounting plate & weight spread out over 6 mounting points solves any concern over weakening door metal by cutting.

ComboWoof.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,522 Posts
I too did the tweeter upgrade first - makes big difference.

Then went with JBL GT7-6's in all four doors
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top