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Aftermarket Alarm Install Help

4524 Views 9 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Webwader
Anyone gone with aftermarket alarm?

I have the OEM alarm, but want to go glass, dual shock, tilt, 2-way, etc. Most likely Clifford Matrix w/o auto start.

Any help would be appreciated. I can get it installed professionally -- saving money is not an issue, but would prefer to do it myself.

Any heads up on potential problems -- that kind of thing. Having a Canadian model, things like the DRL might pose some problems.

thanks in advance.
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I installed an aftermarket alarm. Please ask me specific questions and I'll do my best to answer.
OK, here goes........

The base model Ridgeline does not come with any security except keyless entry.

The RTS and RTL come with some sort of security system, but not a full security system with sensors and such.

Am I correct so far?

Honda offers an OEM alarm add-on that has LED for top of steering wheel column, a brain, and an external microphone of some kind that gets installed in the lower dash.

The OEM alarm comes in two parts. The Security System Attachment Kit (P/N 08E55-SJC-100) and the Security System Kit (P/N 08E51-SHJ-100). The attachment kit includes a bracket, a few wire ties and hardware, a fuse, and a wire harness that connects the brain of the alarm to the fuse panel. Can one use the harness supplied in the attachment kit to get the needed connections for an aftermarket alarm?

Aside from all the stuff above, do you need to disconnect the security system that is built into the RTS and RTL Ridgline? I don't want the vehicle system to override or conflict with the aftermarket alarm in any way.

Also a wire code for the following would be nice:

Power Lock
Power Unlock
Dome Supervision
Trunk Pin
Hood Pin
Factory Alarm Arm
Factory Alarm Disarm
Horn Trigger

That's it for now.
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RTS and RTL come with a basic security system. It monitors doors, door locks, hood, trunk, tailgate (swing only), and audio systems. That is about it.

I believe the add-on security system you are seeing is for the RT model only. It seems to operate strictly based on the vehicle's B-CAN bus, so the raw signals for connecting an aftermarket alarm just aren't there.

The factory security system on RTS/RTL is actually part of the driver's door control module, which also houses the power window and power lock controls. It cannot be disconnected without disabling all window and power lock functions. It communicates with other modules of the truck via the B-CAN bus, relaying information about door lock position and buttons digitally.)

Nearly all of the signals needed to control the alarm are available at the MICU, which is part of the same module where the under-dash fuses are located. To get at the necessary connectors, pull off the cover from the left side of the dash (right next to the door), and remove the trim panel at the bottom of the dash. Nearly all of the necessary wires are located in this area. Some are difficult to get at, but this is by far the best place to pick up the signals you need.

The two wires you requested that are not in this area are for factory alarm arm/disarm. These are only inside the driver's door. To disable my alarm, I jumpered across the factory hood open switch, so the factory alarm thinks the hood is open all the time and therefore it will never arm. (I did this in my 98 Accord for 7+ years and it worked great.) I then added my own hood pin switch to compensate for the loss of the factory switch. I recommend this method rather than trying to run wires into the door; it is much easier.

Wire colors and locations:

(First, if you are not familiar with how Honda numbers their connectors, imagine looking into the wire side of female terminals or the male terminals on the terminal side, with the locking release tab at the top. [Gender is determined by the pin terminals, not the connector itself.] Pins are numbered starting in the upper left corner, working across to the right, and then starting on the next row, just like reading a book. Non-existent cavities are not counted, but unpopulated cavities are. Pins are referred to by connector and pin number, such as "P25" below: connector P, pin 25.)

Power lock: (ground to lock), Pink/Black wire, P25 on MICU. "P" is in a 30-pin green connector that is on the tailgate side of the MICU.

Power unlock: (ground to unlock), Pink/Blue, P9 on MICU. Right next to the power lock wire.

Hood pin: (grounded when open) Green/Black, H2 on under-hood fuse/relay box. "H" is an 18-pin gray connector. (Under hood only, raw signal is not brought into the cabin.)

Tailgate pin: (grounded when open in swing mode) Blue/Orange, Q11 on MICU. "Q" is a 14-pin green connector on the tailgate side of the MICU.

Trunk pin: (grounded when open) Blue/Yellow, Q7 on MICU.

Dome supervision light: (ground to turn on) Green/Red, pin 4 of On/Door/Off interior light switch.

Door open sensor: (grounded when open) Blue/Red, pin 3 of On/Door/Off interior light switch. (This is easier than hooking up individual doors, but several minutes after doors are left open it disconnects from ground.)

Individual door sensors: Drivers E15 (Green), Passenger H12 (Light Green/Red), Left Rear E14 (Green/Yellow), Right Rear H13 (Green/White) on MICU. "E" is a 16-pin Light Green connector on MICU. "H" is a 14-pin Light Green connector on MICU.

Horn trigger: (Ground to sound) Green/Yellow in B1 at steering column (under cover). "B" is a 13-pin white connector.

There are possible power sources available in the fuse block if you do not want to tap into a factory wire. Fuses 12, 15, 17 are not used and are always hot. Fuse 29 is not used and is hot in Run or Start.
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Good stuff........ did you get that info off of Directech? I heard the info on the Ridgeline was on their web site, but only available for people who are in the industry. All I could get were owners manuals to their alarms.

I can get to the wires in the driver's door because of the slight mod I had to do to install aftermarket speaker wires in the door harness, so I'll go for that instead.

Some of the wires that are in the MICU are also available in the wire loom in the passenger side as well, right? If so, I would much rather go with that side, since it's less cluttered (that plus I have a huge passive crossover installed behind the lower dash in the driver's side).

The fuses you talk about, 12, 15, 17, and 29 are not used by any other OEM accessory like fog light kit are they?

I was planning on using these

http://www.highlandnet.com/ftap.htm

Anyway, let me know if the wires behind the kick panel on the passenger side are Ok to use. I have my Navi speed sensor tapped into that side anyway, so it's no big deal to go there again for other wires.


Thanks, man...............
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I got the info out of the Honda Electrical Troubleshooting manual.

To arm/disarm the factory alarm, look for two wires that go to the driver's door key cylinder switch. Ground the black/red wire to arm (pulse only, not constant), ground the blue/white wire to disarm (again, pulse only). If you use this method, the factory security system will be active in addition to the security system you are adding. To completely disable the factory system you'll have to use the method I described in the earlier post.

Some of the wires mentioned are available at the passenger kick panel. But they are going to be hard to find since there are no connectors on that side.

The manual I am referencing does include information for most Honda accessories, and the fuse numbers mentioned are left empty, even taking the Honda accessories into account.
Wait, I take some of that back. Two of the signals you need are available in a connector on the passenger side.

The power lock/unlock signals are available in connector C408 which is up under the dash on the passenger side: (C408 is a 23-pin white connector, the one closer to the back of the truck.)

Power lock: Pink/Black, Pin 5 of C408.
Power unlock: Pink/Blue, Pin 4 of C408.

None of the other necessary signals are available on the passenger side. Trunk and tailgate pin switches come up the left side of the vehicle.

There is one additional location for the door open sensor wire, but it is at the MICU. Pin W4, blue/red wire carries this signal as well. "W" is a 5-pin light green connector. The dome light supervision wire is available at the MICU as well, pin 14 of C403. C403 is a 16-pin gray connector above the MICU, toward the front of the truck.
I was debating at the time I ordered the regular service manual whether or not to get the electrical service manual. I knew I should have done it then. So it sounds real useful. Dang, more money. I plan to keep this truck as long as I did my old 89 Civic, so the manual would come in handy. Again, thanks for the info.
It is a harness for installing the Honda security system in the RT model but it does not include the security system itself. That's another part#.
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