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Wouldn't notice this except the vents are pointed at my hands on the driving wheel. It seems like the ac blows colder for a few seconds then cooler but not warm then repeats the cycle. Just wondering if I should do something or if this is normal. Just bought this truck and am hoping I don't have problems from the start. I have had similar problems with other vehicles but the issues were usually several years old before they started.
 

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Do you have automatic climate? If so it's just adjusting accordingly to hold the temp.


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Wouldn't notice this except the vents are pointed at my hands on the driving wheel. It seems like the ac blows colder for a few seconds then cooler but not warm then repeats the cycle. Just wondering if I should do something or if this is normal. Just bought this truck and am hoping I don't have problems from the start. I have had similar problems with other vehicles but the issues were usually several years old before they started.
Mine does something similar. You didn't say where you live, but, the hotter it is outside, the more I notice it. The compressor duty cycle is far too short. RLs are using the new type of refrigerant (that happens to cost $100.00/pound at this time), and they have had to redesign the HVAC system as a result.
 

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This is my guess too. It's not been warm enough to really have the AC blow for anything other than defrosting in the PNW, so haven't noticed. It's set to 64F, and air coming out tends to be warm... Seattle has had almost no sunny days since October - seattlepi.com
There's another Air Conditioner thread here: http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/138-second-generation-ridgeline-2g-2017/168442-17-rl-air-conditioning.html

Better to go with actual measured temperatures inside the vent, since it takes the subjectiveness (i.e. "seems cool/warm/cold to me").

In that thread I posted some observations about an RTL-E when it was in the low 90's, but I didn't have my thermometer with me unfortunately. The temperature reading with the probe in the vent should be in the low 40's, if not a tad lower, when it's trying to cool a heat-soaked cab. Even without a thermometer, I feel pretty safe in saying it wasn't even close to that. But I don't know if it was a fluke that was specific to that particular truck.

If you have a kitchen/meat thermometer that you are sure is accurate, please post some vent temperature readings, and the outside temperature at the time.
 

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There's another Air Conditioner thread here: http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/138-second-generation-ridgeline-2g-2017/168442-17-rl-air-conditioning.html

Better to go with actual measured temperatures inside the vent, since it takes the subjectiveness (i.e. "seems cool/warm/cold to me").

In that thread I posted some observations about an RTL-E when it was in the low 90's, but I didn't have my thermometer with me unfortunately. The temperature reading with the probe in the vent should be in the low 40's, if not a tad lower, when it's trying to cool a heat-soaked cab. Even without a thermometer, I feel pretty safe in saying it wasn't even close to that. But I don't know if it was a fluke that was specific to that particular truck.

If you have a kitchen/meat thermometer that you are sure is accurate, please post some vent temperature readings, and the outside temperature at the time.
I used a digital infrared thermometer on my RL. The fluctuation in output temperature is over five degrees between cold and warm temperature, depending if the compressor is running in hot weather. It's about 70% cold and 25% not-so-cold. I brought it by a friend who works in Honda service at the end of last fall. He said that at the time there was nothing in his service information providing a remedy, but he did see the big temperature swings.
 

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There's another Air Conditioner thread here: http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/138-second-generation-ridgeline-2g-2017/168442-17-rl-air-conditioning.html

Better to go with actual measured temperatures inside the vent, since it takes the subjectiveness (i.e. "seems cool/warm/cold to me").

In that thread I posted some observations about an RTL-E when it was in the low 90's, but I didn't have my thermometer with me unfortunately. The temperature reading with the probe in the vent should be in the low 40's, if not a tad lower, when it's trying to cool a heat-soaked cab. Even without a thermometer, I feel pretty safe in saying it wasn't even close to that. But I don't know if it was a fluke that was specific to that particular truck.

If you have a kitchen/meat thermometer that you are sure is accurate, please post some vent temperature readings, and the outside temperature at the time.
Thanks for the link. We'll see if it hits 90s this year or not. LOL. It would be interesting to measure it at some point when it is doing cooling rather than just dehumidifying the heat to warm up the interior when it's in the 40's outside already. I would not be surprised if it's not ice cold like the old Freon based ACs. I could see my breath in those.
 

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Wouldn't notice this except the vents are pointed at my hands on the driving wheel. It seems like the ac blows colder for a few seconds then cooler but not warm then repeats the cycle. Just wondering if I should do something or if this is normal. Just bought this truck and am hoping I don't have problems from the start. I have had similar problems with other vehicles but the issues were usually several years old before they started.
Check your Eco button - it affects the air conditioning when it's on.
 

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Sadly don't think the Ridgelines AC is going to compete with the older systems. Just went and checked it against my 14 year old BMW that uses 134A. Temp in Vegas right now is 75 degrees and 16% humidity. There was almost a 10 degree difference at the vents (45 vs. 36), couldn't believe it was that dramatic. Oh well, that's progress for you ?
 

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Thanks for posting your measurements TheMagician. 45 is pretty marginal as a minimum, but I guess it could be worse.

R134a isn't being phased out until the 2021 model year. I was gong to ask why Honda has already switched but I don't suppose it matters. What is Honda using? That 1234YF stuff, which the German automakers refuse to use because it's flammable and can ignite in a frontal collision?
 

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The old r22 is going for over $800 a jug. If you have a home AC system with that ozone bustin' stuff, be prepared for a big bill to replace all the components in the system. The new systems operate at higher pressures.
 

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Check your Eco button - it affects the air conditioning when it's on.
Did not see this post either! My eco button is on all the time, I will have to check the AC with the Eco off. Thanks for the info.
It hasn't been that hot so far this year and the AC is enough to keep it comfortable and I like it cold. I HATE summer.
 
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